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The manual does state 11qts. That is for the 5cyl engine The 5425 has 4 cyl engine and takes 9qts

engine or hydraulics?

When I added a loader to my JD 2030 I bought the super expensive "tee" from my local JD dealer. A simple JIC 08 (1/2") run tee would have worked. Current price is listed as $5.67 plus shipping

Codes 32 & 34 point to the park switch, it thinks it's in park and you asked it to move. Code 51 is that it has stayed in neutral for over 3 seconds when asked to move. (You jumpered the neutral switch)

I am with TX Jim, I too think you have failed tube to the PTO brake. This will cause an internal leak to sump and bleed off the flow from the transmission pump to the front pump causing your problem. If you do the repair or have it done replace BOTH PTO hydraulic tubes. The labor is the same...

You need to find out everything on that fuse. See if the service department will print that section of the wiring diagram for you. Then disconnect each item. If the fuse still blows, it's wiring, if not it's something you disconnected.

That close in price, it would be the one that the I liked cab on best. Or the one with the least complicated electronic controllers. I was expecting the M to be significantly more the a 5X25. How large of a 5X25 are your looking at? When I was looking, the 5425 was the largest I wanted. My 6415...

When I was looking 12+ years ago, I really wanted a 5X25 series, with MFWD, Power Reverser, and a loader. At the time the M series were new enough to be out of my budget, so I never considered them. A cab was also out of my budget. Because I did not require a cab, I ended up with a JD 6415 that...

We have to call the local Fire department for a "Burn Permit". Unless unusually dry it's granted. If you do not call for a burn permit and your fire is called in to the F.D. you get a $500 fine. They will make a run to check the fire. With a permit, they will call and check everything is under...

If no problems with your wheels (such as rusted through) I would stay with a 30" tire. For that size tractor, I would pick the 16.9-30 IIRC these were only 2-wheel drive tractors. If it needs front tires too, I would replace with the same as equipped. I would only change if it's a loader tractor...

I bought the JD version, and it came uncharged. I had to pay the dealer to charge it.

PM replied to.

I would start with the carburetor. Maybe the hit to the ditch upset the float or broke some debrie in the float bowl loose.

Is your tractor USA or German built? Gas or diesel engine? What in the wiring diagram do you need? I have a 1974 JD 2030 diesel USA built. The wiring is pretty simple.

Maybe flywheel engine speed sensor (if you have it) there is a serial number break where it is no longer used. Or throttle position sensor. It could be at the throttle linkage, or injection pump, depending on your serial number.

On my JD 2030, it uses a "washer" that looks like rubber washer, square edges, not an O-ring or quad seal. Mine are leaking too. Last split I forgot to buy new replacements and in a hurry reused the old ones. They are now starting to leak. LMK how the replacement goes on your tractor. I am...

Oops, I missed the "H" on H240. I was thinking the older JD 240 loader, my bad :whistle: :whistle: :eek:

Get the tube style.

Range is: I II R If it has Park it is above II I never tried double clutching I had the "I" directly above the "R", but when posting it get moved to above the "II". GRRR!

Clutch adjustment depends on which transmission you have. Collar shift and TSS (same procedure to adjust) OR Reverser different procedure to adjust). Post your transmission type.

I made a bolt as you describe for the rear wheels on my JD 2030. It has 16-9-28 tires. I got a bolt that fit and made sure it was not threaded all the way. I wanted a smooth surface to slide the wheel. I cut off the head and used a grinder to add a taper, then a hacksaw to make a slot for...

Yes, non-synchronized. I normally only use 8th to "road" the tractor. I never use 7th. 6th is the highest I use on my property, usually moving place to place. 4th is highest I use to brush hog. Range II does not get much use (at least for me) Diesel engines have a lot of torque, they can and...

The transmission requires complete stop to shift gears (1-4) when in range I (2-8) when in Range II. Reverse only gives gears 1-4. You must stop also to shift ranges (I & II) or to reverse. The PTO is tied to the clutch. It has a two stage clutch. Push clutch pedal part way in and transmission...

The ones on my JD 2030 screw on/off. I replaced them just to make the tractor look better.

IIRC the JD ones are screwed on. Check if new ones are available

I am not familiar with your tractor. Does it have a wet or dry clutch? If a dry clutch, you will need a line up tool, but I have successfully "eye balled" the alignment.

Try warming the knobs up with a heat gun.

I added the JD kit to my 62C deck. Works, but I am not using Gator blades. I also felt the kit would reinforce the leading edge of the deck.

There are spots on the fuel lines of my JD 6415 that have the split loom for protection against abrasion. You buy for a lot less than JD sells it for, and indifferent materials. I would pick whatever is the most wear resistant

I had to replace all the hoses (fuel lines) on my JD 6415. They started to leak at the fittings where the clamps were. Not enough line to cut them shorter. I used Gates Baricade hose. It comes in both high, and low-pressure versions. High is for fuel injected cars/trucks. I used low.

I somehow kinked that same brake line on my JD 2030. Probably snagged or hit something. I ordered a new line from JD. It came prebent with flare nuts installed. Fit perfect.

Are you getting any trouble codes? Doe hitting the brake pedals change the status of the MFWD light?

"Rivet Nuts" might allow you to mount the bracket where you want to on your torque tube of your loader. I am not sure what your grill guard issue is, but I would one.

Put range and gear levers in neutral, and see if it cranks. I am guessing the transmission is not the problem. They are pretty simple/bullet proof.

My grapple stays on my JD 2030 almost 100% of the time. It has to come off to remove the loader, which I do when I brush hog. I have a JD 245 loader. I've tried removing the loader with the grapple on. That does not work well to remove the loader or reinstall the loader. I found I have to switch...

I also use an engine crane/cherry picker when I remove the loader brackets from my JD 2030. Been there several times to split the tractor. You split a much bigger tractor! I've split my 2030 at least three times. One of the lines to the Independent PTO (PTO clutch) broke. Replace clutch...

The only thing I could find in the JD parts catalog is the flywheel sensor connector was not used after serial number 234501

I also use an engine crane/cherry picker when I remove the loader brackets from my JD 2030. Been there several times to split the tractor.

Did the tractor catch fire? Or did the battery explode? What are ViseGrip "C" clamps for in the second picture? I probably would have hooked the tow strap lower, not on the front guard. It does look like a fun, but expensive project.

I agree, start by freeing the pedals. After sitting unused for five years, I would change all fluids, filters, and clean the sump screen.

It could be a coupler not properly coupled. Uncouple, then recouple, and see if that helps.

Nice fix, good thing you did not need the buttons,

I concur with TxJim's first suggestion, the setting of the flow on the SCV is turned down.

Does the inner cable show any signs of being broken? It sounds too short. Have you made sure the engine end of the outer cable is properly installed?

If you are not willing to trim the trees, I would mow around them, then finish up with something else that will fit under them or not mow under them at all.

It might be the check valve that is for each brake line at the brake valve. Parts key 16, 17, & 18. Check for contamination holding check valve open. Defective seat key 16, or weak/broken spring key 18

You should be able to find the bend radius for hoses in their specs. I will assume 2 wire hose to be stiffer and have larger bend radius. The only drawback to reusable fittings I see is the cost. I like the being able to change the hose length you would get doing it yourself. Sometimes 3/4"...

I know guys that go to Marinas just to buy ethanol free fuel. In my state pump gas can contain up to 10% ethanol without disclosing on the pump :mad: I also know guys that buy "canned" pre mix fuel for their two stroke equipment. Cheaper in the long run they tell me.

Harder to start when cold out?

Rye was my guess too. Farmer told me price for rye is low, so he sprayed it then about a week later no-tilled soybeans into the field.

I wonder if an inline fuse could be put in the cold start sensor wiring harness so when the sensor fails, and the inline fuse blows the tractor still starts. Same way it starts when the sensor is unplugged.

Very sad what some people will do. I had to leave my truck for repair overnight. The shop has a fenced outside lot for overnight vehicles. They made me sign a "not responsible for vehicle contents theft or damage". I told them I left my truck unlocked. Don't lock it when you are finished. I'd...

I also "T"ed my loader third function lines to the rear and installed quick couplers, just incase they are needed.

Do you know the manufacture of the valve? They may have website or Tech help available.

Thanks for the update. Sounds like both fuel pump and carb were at fault

JD parts catalog shows a check valve in that location. I can't tell how it is retained in the valve body from the drawing

JD dealers can also check stock of JD dealers nationwide. I wanted some discontinued parts, my local dealer found another JD that had them in stock. I called that dealer that had the parts I wanted, paid by CC and had the parts shipped to me.

JD parts shows it's available to order

I am not in NJ. My state requires paper work to transfer handguns, not rifles or shotguns. This was probably 45 to 50 years ago. I learned my lesson. It was a friend of friend, not a guy I knew. Same guy screwed over my friends parents after the rifle incident.

Better to have the thieves remove the cap to steal fuel than the alternative. Thieves have been drilling/punching holes in fuel tanks to steal fuel from vehicles. Letting what they can't take go on the ground. Years ago, a friend had an elevated gas storage tank. The nozzle padlocked to the...

I had a JD 300 lawn tractor that would quit after about 2 hours. Mine it was the exhaust valve would stick open when hot. IIRC later models got a sodium filled exhaust valve to cure that problem. My lawn took longer than 2 hours to mow, so I traded it in for newer model.

I agree with TxJim, do not to replace the bushings (key 20) in the transmission case. R&R of these bushings can cause the transmission case to be damaged = more expensive problem.

My JD 285 had the plastic cam gear fail. It was when starting the engine (engine failed to start). Mine lost 7 teeth in row on the plastic cam gear, so the cam was no longer rotating when I cranked the engine. IIRC these engines are ones the valves do not hit the pistons.

Avenger thanks for coming back with an update. I've been on the receiving end of bad borrowers too. I guess that's how we learn. Over 30 years ago, I loaned a friend of friend a rifle to deer hunt. I was worried, but it was not a high $$ rifle, more of beater truck gun. It came back same as it...

I hope you also changed you locks.

When my Mom's new house, a manufactured house, (came in two halves) was delivered and set on the basement. She was required to have a bulldozer on site to pull the crane (not off road crane) around and serve as an anchor for the crane. The bulldozer operator charged for the hours he was there...

My brother had borrowed a trailer from my Dad. When he died (trailer still not returned), my Mom told everyone of us kids, return what you borrowed, there will be an auction, if you want it buy it. If you do not return it, I will consider you bought it and charge what we paid for it new. The...

I think what you are calling a sensor is the motor that operates the valve spool.

The non-payment, then your price is/was too high, should have been your BIG clue about this person (your wife is right) I glad you got your tiller back! To those that loan to family, I stopped doing that. My brother wanted to borrow my truck to pick up a riding lawn mower. He said the seller...

I prefer to roll the front away from the rear when I do a split. I have split JD 2030s 6 or more times. With a helper, a person one each rear tire, moving the rear might be easier, but I work alone. I made a single swivel wheel attachment to do my splits. I have seen two wheels, one each side...

Use a small chisel to try and bend the OD of the seal towards the center. Get it bent in enough to grab with pliers and pull the seal out.

That does not seem like enough pressure to cause a problem. Running with the fill cap loose or off would tell if that is the problem. I think it's time to check the float level and main jet.

My guess is key 18

If oil engine or hydraulic is getting into the clutch housing, you need to get it fixed before a new clutch becomes part of the repair. The age of this tractor, 55 years, makes me think any seal repair product you add to the oil will not work.

Paint fade from the sun (UV light) and UV damage to the hoses, over the long term is the only minus to outside storage. The hydraulics are designed for a lot more pressure than warm up from the sun will cause.

You need to find out how/why the fuel tank is being pressurized. Only two sources. The cannister or fuel pump. If you disconnect the cannister at the check valve, the check valve should let the tank take in air as the fuel is used, but not allow air out. If the tank still becomes pressurized, it...

As test, I would connect the hose from the air intake that goes to the cannister to the hose from the cannister to the check valve, to the fuel tank. I would position the check valve to allow flow into the fuel tank. This will bypass the cannister and filtered air would be able to enter the fuel...

What year is your Mule? Parts drawings show different fuel pumps for different years and also hook up looks different. Some lowest fitting goes to tank, others to carb. Maybe you have the wrong "new" pump?

California versions have the cannister. The fuel system has sealed fuel cap, not vented. The cannister is for emissions/prevents fuel vapor getting in the air. The plastic valve, black, red end is a check valve. I am not sure which direction it goes. You mention another line from the cannister...

The fact it does not run well at full throttle, sounds like partially plugged main jet. If you go into the carburetor that's one thing I would check.

Use a "temp gun" to check various spots on the radiator as it gets hot. A low reading would indicate a plugged area inside the radiator. You may have internal radiator cores that are plugged.

For your M/F connector question. It does not matter which is used where. There is no "convention" I am aware of. I put females on my tractor and males on my attachments. Then I use colored zip ties and dust covers to mark them. Some like the idea of having a male and female on the attachment...

air cooled, or liquid cooled? white smoke sounds like coolant being burned, but not if air cooled?

First thing to do is "pull" trouble codes.

Check the frame for model number/serial number tag. With the model, we should be able to find the kit you want.

Quick instructions for the SCV and quick couplers. Top coupler to "rod" end of cylinder Bottom coupler to "head/piston" end of cylinder Move lever in cab forward to retract cylinder, all the way forward for "float" Move lever in cab rearward to extend cylinder The SCVs at the rear of the tractor...

I've put O-rings on JIC fittings at the bottom of the threads, by the hex, and used them as SAE/ORB fittings. Just have to make sure the flare does not bottom in what you are installing them in. I had not seen the JIC "O-ring Flare" fittings, thanks for posting.

The "face" of the male fitting has the groove machined in it for the O-ring. So, ORFS = O Ring Face Seal

Check: 1) seat switch (sends power to PTO relay) 2) PTO relay K23. Wire number 545 is power into relay (same fuse as seat & PTO switch; fuse F119) Wire number 254 is power to the relay from the seat switch. Wire number 575 is power to solenoid. 3) check the solenoid ground wire number 310 To...

Key 20 is P/N T77932. It is for a -10 ORFS fitting. -10 is 10/16 or 5/8. If you have a local hydraulics shop closer, ask for 5/8 ORFS O-ring or a -10 ORFS O-ring (both are the same thing)

Best case low on lube, worse case internal damage. I agree not normal. Also, could be the double u-joints for the axle shaft. Axle could be Carraro or Dana brand. Drawing is Carraro

The JD parts catalog for JD 5303 mid valve shows O-rings on the fittings. Looks like ORFS for hose end, and SAE/ORB for adapter into valve body. Key 19 & 45

Nice write up. I would switch to a Hause style fairlead from the roller fairlead for synthetic rope. If you have trouble with the fuses blowing during hard pulls, switch to a resettable circuit breaker.

Was the noise from the front hubs? They have planetary gears. Or the rear axle? I would now ask your neighbor. Just tell him you are considering buying a larger tractor and wondered if the noise was normal. He might be able to explain.

See if the Woods has the "quick change" blade pins. I am not sure if that's the correct name for them. The blade pin has plate with hole like a figure eight that engages a groove on the blade pin. Then there is a small piece that goes in the other 1/2 of the figure eight and blots to the cross...

I would not use teflon tape. Does the fitting use O-ring(s)? If so replace them.

John Deere did an update. The large washer was changed to a thicker one. IIRC from 1/4" thick to 1/2" thick. The bolt then had to be longer too. JD also changed the torque spec from 170lb-ft to 240lb-ft. Changing the bolt and washer and the increased torque really made difference on my tractor...

I vote Kawasaki, only because I have owned two a 1996 2510 and now a 2018 Pro FXR. My neighbor has a Polaris 800. His only complain is the seat gets hot from the engine and the cost of a replacement battery

I would post this in the John Deere section of the forums.

Local shop should be able to do them in day, or even while you wait if not busy. I have had my local JD dealer make hoses while waited.

I have done this with the short side of the bulkhead fitting. Be sure the threads do not bottom in quick coupler before the Oring gets compressed. Be sure to use an SAE/ORB O-ring. Check that the threads on the bulkhead fitting are machined off where the O-ring goes. This cannot be done on the...

Did you use the vacuum method, since you only lost one half quart?

JD specs the JD 146 loader w/72" bucket at 1250lbs and the JD 148 loader with 84" bucket at 1380lbs if that helps. I am guessing the 143 would same or less than the 146?

I am betting it did. My first post was to check the poppets and not make any adjustments.

Ideal time to change out the quick couplers as they fail. I would not want proprietary couplers.

Welcome! Also, Southwest MI. I have several Deere and hunt deer on 60 acres

Did the seller replace the OC plug P/N AW17949? Seeing it might show how CC plug should be made. At this point I'd probably buy a replacement CC valve.

Your post was confusing. I thought your remotes only had Float :rolleyes::unsure::whistle:

The cylinder to stay where you set it. Think rear blade; tilt, angle, or offset. Pull type cutter with cylinder to control height.

What P/N did you order? If it turns out to be the wrong part. Try finding the complete CC valve, P/N AW20889. I've seen posts where a guy buys a JD loader, and it comes with a CC valve and he needs OC. You would want to get key 21, P/N AW17949 to put back in your valve. Maybe the guy that sold...

It looks like they just pulled the part number AW17949 (see post #64) and replaced it with a plug. I think you need P/N W25405 TxJim found earlier. Or a plug similar to this

I am thinking it's Cessna valve. Maybe W25405 is CC conversion plug? P/N AW20889 is the CC non-convertible valve.

Over 20 years ago the HI/LO went out in my JD 2030. It also ruined the clutch housing. Local dealer that split the tractor quoted $6K to fix an $8K tractor. I should have parted it out and moved on. I could not find a savage tractor or the needed parts. I bought a very well used/tired tractor...

I do not think it's CC conversion plug either. I'll bet his valve has it and they plugged it, since CC does not have a place for it's connecting hose. So having a hose, it can't be a CC conversion plug. If we knew the valve maker, a CC conversion plug might be found. I would pull the valve...

With the valve in the mounting box, and the return hose going over the top, it's hard to tell if that port is there. I suspect, they plugged it. Did you find a CC plug? P/N? If you did KUDOS! a CC plug would solve his problem. Then he needs to get the water flushed out and hope the brake...

While draining fluid, take the line from the loader valve to the rockshaft cover (return line for loader valve) and your filter cover to hydraulics shop. Tell them you want fitting(s) to connect that hose end to the port on the filter cover. Also get a "T" for the PCV and a cap (for until you...

I think the ported filter cover use an SAE 12 (3/4") ORB fitting. Thread size is 1 1/16-12. It looks like the loader installer pulled the rear SCV. Connected the pressure for the loader valve to the PCV (they should have "T" into it) Then ran the return to the return for rear SCV on the...

Your sump screen is behind this plug

Looks like water in fluid to me. Easy test, pull a sample and put in clear container. Water will eventually settle to bottom. If foam it will eventually disburse.

I am guessing you found a CC plug for his valve.

I agree, the line in your last picture was for a return. Not really related to rear SCVs, but added for use as TxJim suggested, a post pounder that needs a free return to sump. If you drain the hydraulic fluid, pull the sump screen and check for brake lining material. Did you agree to buy the...

Thanks, TxJim, good to know. At least he does not have to worry about water and clutch packs for these items. Main worry is the brake linings.

I use a rear remote on my JD 2030. The remote has detents for both open and close. I just move the lever to detent and let it open or close. If I want more control closing, I use the lever, but stay out of detent.

Driveshaft/drive line shop can build almost any needed driveshaft. Easy for them when you have both ends and they just need to retube. In the past, I had truck driveshafts lengthened when lifting the truck. 4x4 truck, adding a lift kit.

Pictures will help. The ones TxJim asked for of how/where the loader valve connects to the tractor. Also what is left of the rear remote, and the cut line. I may have missed what transmission and type of PTO it has. If Hi/Lo or Reverser transmission, I would be very worried the white/milky...

TxJim, I think it's an open center valve. Key 21 is where another hose would connect. I am not sure if that is the "tank/return" hose or PB (power beyond) hose that connects there. I am guessing it has plug in it. I do not know if there is a special cc conversion plug for this port. Your test...

If your problem(s) is/are tractor related, I have Tech Manual. It's huge, about 4" thick.

If buying locally, a hydraulics shop the makes hoses could duplicate exactly what you have. You bring them the old hose to replicate. They would note how the two 90°s on the first hose are "clocked" and make sure they crimp the 90°s on the same orientation. If buying online, lengths are by the...

When you say "just got it back today" did you return it for any changes? Like change the loader valve to CC (closed center)? Did you agree to buy it without rear remotes? Did they remove the SCV and quick couplers? More info on the line they left open. If it is coming from the PCV and...

I would tell the seller to put the correct loader valve on the tractor before I would buy. I would also want the rear SCV. Many uses for 1, 2, 3, even 4 rear SCVs.

I switched to the "black heavy duty" ones TSC sells after losing a couple std ones.

I would reroute the new hoses to the inside of the fender. Probably get some clamps to keep them off the edge of the fender.

Same here. I use tie wraps to connect to the hoses. I took the hook off the hose end. The other end I bent the hook so it can't come off where I attached it to the grapple. Hoses make a "sideways S" These are the grapple hoses. They connect to quick couples on the loader boom. I needed long...

JD mailed me a field install solenoid shield kit for my 2030. I guessing since I had work done at a JD dealer, my name was connected to that tractor. I bought it used.

If you were close, I would have liked to swap a few parts to my 2030 before you traded ;)🤠:cry: Your hood looked better than mine, for one. Where did it end up?

It means determine if you have open or closed center hydraulics. I assume open. Open uses PB (Power Beyond) Closed does not use PB So, LD1 was saying determine if it's open center (will have PB) and that closed center (no PB) will not be compatible if you have open center.

Any tractor dealer should have equipment to make hydraulic hoses, and a variety of fittings/connectors. If not, they should be able to send you to the shop they sub to

I would start at the circuit breaker and see if you have power to it, then through it. The resister on the light switch is for less voltage to the headlights when in low beam.

Thanks for the update. My tractors are too old to have seat switches.

I also did not find much info on your Yanmar. Other than 20HP. I ASSUME open center hydraulics. The replacement valve has to be open center if your tractor has open center. A closed center valve will not work (unless your tractor is closed center OR the valve can be converted to open center) I...

What will this weigh/cu ft?

Rockshaft valve? Or linkage to rockshaft valve? Hard to tell in the picture.

You need to post more info, such as transmission (several options), hours. A JD dealer can do search with the serial number that will show if any warranty work was done, and any service work was done at a JD dealer. This series went through several model numbers, 6200, 6210, 6215,6220, and...

I am waiting to see the results of loosening all the loader mount bolts, leveling the boom arms (side to side) or torque tube, then tightening the mount bolts to torque spec. OP said he did one side, then the other, but not both loosened at the same time.

It was not my field. So, I was going slow. There were other stumps I could tell were there. They had all kinds of "suckers" growing from the stump. This one did not. If it were my field, I would mark it somehow. Maybe a tee post and flagging tape? Had I left my loader on ,it would have found...

It could be play in the pins, linkage, that lets the bucket rock. Or if the hydraulic fluid cooled from when the tractor was parked, the fluid might have contracted enough for some "hydralic play" too? On the original post, I guessing twisted the loader frame or a mount moved, if not tight...

Second picture is tractor stuck, retrieval. There was stump hidden in the tall weeds. Everything cleared, but one of my sway bar stops. There was a hole to the right of the stump that the rear tire dropped into. I was glad the tractor got stuck, rather than the brush hog hitting the stump. Good...

On my 2006 JD 6415, I have to press the clutch pedal at startup for the reverser to work. This is normal for my tractor.

Rather than a video, can you post pictures? My internet connection is so slow, I don't even try to load videos. Maybe carpenter's square on the boom arm to torque tube will show if you bent the loader?

If your mechanic does the filter/screen cleaning/fluid replacement and that does not fix the problem, have him pull the cover holding the shifters. Two tubes go to the PTO valve, one to the PTO clutch, the other to the PTO brake. If the tube does not have fluid to the top of the tube, it is...

I am guessing three lines = pressure in, power beyond, and return to tank.

Thanks for updating

Trade it in for a new JD! :devilish:

Engine oil? Or hydraulic oil? I assume he fixed the cause of the leak.

Hydraulic controls will be in the cab, but unless the loader has the optional third function, no hydraulics to the front. Loader may have an independent mid valve or be using two rear SCVs. Seller should be able to tell you what hydraulics it has, there are multiple options.

I would think yes

The center shaft will be supported by the pilot bearing in the end of the engine crank shaft. Play when split is normal. If you have any doubts about the throwout bearing, now is the time to replace it.

I think you should use 5/8" bolts, rather than 3/4.

They used to be a LOT less, but I can't remember the price I was quoted years ago. Parts use to list two versions, fixed and folding. My local dealer also said price was cost as part of a goodwill/safety program. None in stock at the time. I was lucky to find a used one for $100, but no...

Get a radio, play it so the kids/dogs can hear you coming. Does your Hubby get a toy too?

Switch adapters, if you room.

You might be able to have a Print Shop "drill" the middle hole to match a 3 ring binder. I took JD tech manual CD and a 3 ring binder to a Print Shop. They printed the entire manual and drilled it for my binder. I came shirk wrapped. I had to put it in the binder. I was charged per page for...

Or he could find someone that wants to swap carriers.

Rate of drop for rockshaft

Also is the Tractor serial number above or below 350000? This will let us select the correct parts catalog

Which lever is it? See drawings.

5/16" ID

5/16" ID

Sounds like you have this pump drive. I would check for loose fasteners at the very lease.

I second check their switches.

Mine was leaking BETWEEN the two SCVs. I had to replace two packings R26149 (I called them O-rings earlier)

Thanks! I hope my JD 2030 never needs a pump

I had a leak on my dual SCVs on my JD 2030 between the valves. It was the O-ring between the valves, not the covers in my case.

Tee in line at the ported filter cover should be return from the loader. My JD 203 has the SCVs return to the ported filter cover, as does my loader. I would try swapping the SCV covers and see if the leak moves to the other SCV. If it does, maybe a new cover?

Post your problem and tractor model and you might find a solution here

Can the drive for the front pump easily be disconnected? If so, isolate the front pump that way and see if chirp is still there.

Top of reservoir line is return of excess to sump

only one. The circuit that is "off" per the 3 way ball valve will have a "dead end" for which ever line the 3 way ball valve is in.

ROPS uses 4 bolts per side. I am assuming you plan to use your fender bolts, two per side and only need 4 more. The four you need are P/N 19H3472 $18.72 each. They are 5/8-11 x 9 3/4" long. I am guessing you can buy 4 5/8-11 x 10" grade8 bolts for less. Check ebay, there is a set of 4 for $25...

A three way ball valve would allow you to pick which item has hydraulics

Correct, this the check valve we are talking about, and he removed. I posted earlier JD does not install this check valve when HI/LO or Reverser transmission is installed.

When you have the optional HI/LO or Reverser transmission, JD does NOT install inlet check valve. I am not sure how much oil could flow back through a gear pump. The transmission pump is a gear pump.

That's return/overflow from the reservoir. If you have an oil cooler (right of radiator), flow will first go through the oil cooler, then return to sump.

It sounds like the bolt and washer for the steer arm to shaft

My neighbor has a Polaris 800, no idea the yr. His is white if that helps ID the year. He says his gets hot, seat area, and he complains it takes a special battery that is spendy.

Are your valves open center or closed center?

A love/hate problem. You love the problem might be solved but hate having to find the problem wire. I would start (LOL) at the solenoid battery positive wire. Since you said you could "jump" the solenoid, and it spun, but did not engage, I am GUESSING low voltage in the battery cable to the...

It could be the "Bendix" The internal one-way clutch may be bad, so shaft spins, but does not spin the gear.

It may be the solenoid. That type starter uses a lever from the solenoid to the "bendix"/one way clutch. If not the solenoid, maybe, lever system is stuck/jambed?

On my JD 2030 the dealer recommend a new solenoid. Which I tried, bought from my dealer, JD part. No change. I also extended the ground cable to the engine block, no change. Rather than pay the big $$$ cost of a JD starter, I took a chance on the DB starter. Bib change! starts much...

DB Electrical starter is probably China built, but has been working better than JD starter on my JD 2030. I still think worth a try.

What HP is the Honda? Super job fabbing and installing!

More info on your K Mule. Year and model please. I had a 1996 2510, bought new. Up graded in 2020 and gave it to my daughter. Several batteries, but original starter.

Rapidly turning the wheel did not work for me. I never added a destroke valve. The DB starter did the trick! I wish I had added it years ago. My dealer said it needed a new solenoid. That did not make any difference.

I saw a post once where a guy used wheels from a scaffold. IIRC they had a threaded rod with a large nut that had a crossbar welded on to adjust height. He built a square tube to bolt to the flywheel housing where side frames attach and put the threaded rod of the wheel into the bottom of the...

I built a splitting "wheel" for my JD 2030, I'ved used it for multiple splits, always moved the front 1/2.

Did that take two guys? One on each rear tire? What did you use for support that rolled?

Get a Multi-coupler, made by Faster. Also called single point coupler. You will never go back to separate quick couplers. I have the 3 function version (for grapple) on my JD 2030 & JD 6415

Do the Tees swivel within the mounting brackets? If they do, that might be causing the upper hose connector to loosen.

3 1/2 years ago I put one from DB Electrical on my JD 2030. Starts MUCH faster/easier than with the factory starter.