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Just get some large “R”clips and push them all the way through until they’re hanging, brush and limbs are not gonna pull them out, been using them this way all my life

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Work the winch cable under the bucket, then attach to the tractor, tie the loader lever back as if to raise the loader, as the cable tightens to pull the tractor, it will also raise the bucket enough to load.

from the WIX Filter Finder

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You don’t happen to have a piece of the cross drive bolt still in there? And or the hole may have a “burr” from the bolt hammering on the shaft, I’d try to align the holes to be sure the hole is clear, then I’d cut some wooden wedges to hammer on each side behind the sprocket to bring it out

sent

What range are you trying to climb and mow in?, sounds like you’ve got it in too high of a choice

Messicks are very nice people to deal with!

#20?

It’s a one piece rod, but if I remember correctly, it will slide to the side into the rear wheel rim allowing you to get everything out of the way

DeereShane, got your info, should be in your email now

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a 2410d weights just under 2,300 lbs, a m4011 backhoe weights 1,975 lbs, JMHO, this isn't gonna be a happy marriage

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Been doing the pipe and chain my whole life, I even went back a few years ago and cut teeth in the pipe end to make the bite even better on the slick “gum” tree’s and shrubs

if I remember correctly a 870 is a dual clutch setup, so the PTO is a separate drive disk. Cranking and driving it around while applying the brakes hard repeatedly many time will break the disc loose. Resist the urge to spray any lubes or penetrates in through the access plate

ASAP All States has several 4100's around the states in their yards https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/salvage-equipment/john-deere-salvage/4100-salvage.html?product_list_limit=32

Those should be wet multi-disc brakes the disc are applied by the “twisting”of two plates with balls running in a ramp. Kinda sounds like the balls are not always returning to the released position. Hopefully others with more hands on knowledge will be here soon.

I have them on all my 6v tractors, that’s how they act. Some work at different speeds between modes, guess every battery is a bit different

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hopefully this works, computer is down, doing this with my phone wiring

done

I’ve seen a lot of people just saw off the roller ends and weld them to a new piece of thick wall pipe.

this is out of my 11HD manual, I'm sure the MD is about the same

See if this helps-

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Tractor and tiller really need to be together to measure

Be to you shortly, heed the info email, this is a huge manual!

The one piece was for ease of assembly at the factory, but was not practical to be shipped as a replacement part, so the two pieces were a lot easier to ship without a huge crate or box to protect it. I agree, a good hose shop should be able to reproduce at a fair price.

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Serial number is W006X4073015 Clutch on engine is tapered, the one on transmission is straight I have a technical manual in PDF that you’re welcome to, if wanted, shoot me your email in a message

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see if this helps, I have PDF's of both the machine manual and the engine manual alone that you are welcome to, contact info in your messages if wanted Joe

Got it, should be there now

I do, check your messages for contact information

Hoye Tractor used to be the go to for Yanmar built tractors, ASAP bought them out

looks like whats left of a Peruzzo Flail Mower, they had hoppers above and to the rear of the rotor. Parks and golf courses loved them because the left almost nothing on the ground here's a newer one https://www.farmequipment24-7.com/Koala-1600-Ground-p/koala1600.htm

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REMOVE and clean all connections of battery cables, ground connection at tractor end of cable especially, most common failure on these compacts

most times it was cast into the part, most you see are less that 3/8" type, no telling where they'd put it, I'd start on the back of the flat flange

Yes they can be turned, and resharpened too, great winter project

Deere like most others was pretty good about having a number cast into the piece somewhere. You might need to get it really cleaned up or sandblasted to see it. That may help your ID

Try not going so deep on a pass, you may be bringing up more than it can throw over the top, speed may be too fast also

Weavers had a 110 not long ago, worth a call https://www.compactractorparts.net/inventory/?/listings/search?DSCompanyID=3806&ListingType=For%20Retail%7CFor%20Rent%7CDismantle&ScopeCategoryIDs=464%7C4%7C28%7C27%7C151000%7C152000%7C153000%7C150000&settingscrmid=107366&dlr=1&lo=2&Condition=DISMANTLED

CVos90 CVos90, did you get my message about manual?

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Most older Kubota engines have a fusible link down near the starter, (see pic below, wire may be one,of several colors ) you can unplug it and test it with a mete, or just give it a tug, if it feels elastic instead of solid like wire, it’s blown

my cheat sheet shows a A10xxx as a model 1000, a 1600 should be a AA2xxx

Push the loader all the way forward as to lift the front of the tractor, then push the lever forward a bit more, you should feel the lever go into a detent that is the float position

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Steve and JoJo are great folks to deal with!

Richard, didn't I send you a PDF of the manual? if not, message me your email and it's on the way. As far as shifting, as low of idle as it will run is best, but the shift has to be quick and full or you'll hear lots of damaging grinding, we replaced lots of shifting pieces due to poor shifting.

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I believe you're looking at a split to see much, there's not a lot to the shifter, it's just a matter of getting to it. I have a PDF of the technical manual you're welcome to if wanted, I'll PM you contact info for it

not real sure on the working side, but it is available locally

you need, #5,6,7 & 8

nothing missing, that's how it looks, only hose on the white piece is the one coming off the side of it

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found this just googling around, didn't know if you'd called them -

sounds like the fuel solenoid is dropping out or loosing power, below are what is involved in keeping the fuel open. I have a PDF of the technical manual for your 755, all the electrical diagrams and testing are in it, check your private messages for contact info if you want it Joe

sounds like most larger loaders, has a self leveling system, some are mechanical, some work through the hydraulics

agree, 1966 4020 LP

I don't know if this will help, or muddy the waters, but this is from the 345C,445C, 545C service manual

Yes folks!, take notes, pictures, and part numbers, I hope my 345C continues to work for yeas to come, but who knows!

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Most likely one of two things has happene. Either the pin has become bound to the cylinder rod bore, and or this has allowed the rod to turn in the stab leg wearing a notch in the pin. I always hate hammering on a pin, if you mushroom the end, it’s not going back through the hole. Before getting...

I think you need to get out the test light or meter and be sure you are getting power on both sides of the fuses, you're talking about 6 circuits not working? all the power coming to the switch and to the fuse panel is on a fusible link in the red wire coming from the starter to the fuse box

see if this helps -

the 917 and the early 917A's were single belt, asking a lot out of it, wear and failures brought out the double

#6 shim kit should get you all the shims

Tractor end is pretty standard at 1 3/8” 6 spline, the generator end depends on how it was built, is it also splined, keyed, shear bolt, etc

on the way and welcome!

I’d say looking at the parts drawings that you’re pulling the fuel tank

The one under the tank is a water trap / separator, go ahead and take it apart and wash it out element should be washable

Sent

done

I’m thinking it was just a pipe plug

Ya might have to admit defeat and take it to a hydraulic shop

Most Woods cylinders have a wire remainder to hold the gland in, look for a cutout machined into the barrel about half the distance to the fitting boss, you should see a notch with a wire in it. You have to dig the end of the wire up and turn the head to feed it out. I like to spray lube or...

I wonder if a brake caliper bolt boot with a stout zip-tie on the ends would work? Boot

Mine came this morning, just under 8lbs with battery supplied, naturally it’s pouring rain this mornin, so I can’t try it on the trailer, dually, and mainly my Ford backhoe.

I’ll send it tonight, not home at moment

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When you get to payment, you can choose shipping, got one on the way to me here in Atlanta , freight was $16 and some cents, was looking at these the other week, $300+ around here

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I try to sharpen mine when I know I’m gonna cut most grasses, by the time I’m through with that job, they are appropriately dull. The main reason to not keep them lawnmower sharp is that you will cut off small scrub trees and such with a sharp enough edge to puncture a tire. A bit of a blunt...

don't just tighten ground, remove both ends and clean well, especially tractor end

still like to change them, especially if you don't know history of maintenance, too often neglected and pumps aren't cheap!

Power steering & spin on transmission filter too

#24 hold the lever, but usually you have an electrical issue/safety switch issue that allows the PTO to drop out (sent you a private message with more info)

#13?? BOLT - FLANGED HEX M8-1.25 X 20 bracket to block #10? BOLT - FLANGED HEX M10-1.5 X 50 bracket to motor mount center

what is the model/serial number on your STX?

a worn pulley moving around will finally take it's toll on the input shaft. I have seen people take a new pulley and shim it down a bit to get a new place for pulley to bite shaft

does the back of your new switch look like this?

Purple Power strong, keep it wet, do not get on paint you ever want to shine again

Aftermarket, Ford just never seemed to get on board with this kind of option, I agree with the above, Summit seems to be very knowledgeable and willing to help

Best I remember, our guys put an electric splitter in the bucket circuit and the button on the loader control

I was in parts when these came out, not the shop, but they did have a de-clutch pedal on the front of the left floor board, same as my 345C, there is a switch and several small wires under there that may need attention. Also the forward reverse lever is prone to corrosion in the contacts, we...

Will do it shortly

Pulley only has key, is not threaded on to crank, time, rust, and corrosion are very strong. you might try tapping up on the key slightly to break it's bond (don't drive it far) same with pulley working it up and back a bit until it breaks free

#69 in drawing,the one by the side tank under the cap is Ford# DBPN880A Wix#51577 NAPA#1577

Depends on whose cutoff it is, seems like the old metal handled ones were about 6-7, the newer plastic handled ones are less. Real easy to over tighten the plastic ones. I’d say it’s time for a new cutoff, and a great time to rinse all the junk from the tank

wasn't even thinking about that!

careful blowing air backwards up the fuel line, real easy to blow the strainer out of the top of the cutoff valve in the bottom of the tank. If it were mine, I'd drain the tank, undo the fuel line and unscrew the valve out of the bottom of the yank. I'm betting you'll find a bunch of trash...

Ya let the smoke out!

look in your manual for testing the "time delay control module" part of it's job is to hold the solienoid open as the key switch moves from "start" to "run" kinda sounds like yours isn't making the changeover

complete harness only

lots of things are in the fuel solenoid system, as you can see in these two drawings (old version stops at tractor serial number 105,92) I have a PDF of the tech manual that you are welcome to before you keep throwing money at it!, if wanted, send me your email and it's on the way. I'll message...

ground cable attaches to the top of the right rear motor mount, don't look at it, remove it and wire brush both the cable end and what it attaches to, bad grounds are most of the electrical problems with starting on compact tractors

Henkelmike, check your messages for manual info

looks like a well cared for Yanmar, most that you see have had the crap beat out of them!

It would appear that you are correct and the bolt is going to have to come out, never had the pleasure of this repair, maybe someone will speak up who has

I would think that the too small pin hammered out the bushings long ago, hate to see what the end of the stick looks like!

ouch!!!! salvage yard or machine shop time!!! 24 PIN 38.05mm OD x 318.3mm L 7704796 $487.20 Dipstick, 1-1/2'' x 12-1/2'', Bucket to Dipstick & Link Assy.;Effective W/1972 Production dipstick and pins

Yea, they were about $200 a piece when I left Ford in the late 90’s

If I remember right, they were 1 1/2“ x 12 1/2”

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check your private messages for more info

most any hardware store or home improvement store should have a version of it HomeDepot

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For Hazard/road flasher lights and turn indicators

FLASHER ASSEMBLY - FLASHER ASSEMBLY D8NN13N360AC $55.98 3-7 business days 1 Assy, 6 Terminals, W/Cab, Hella #TBB38; (Prod Date) After 01-Jan-1981 Replaced By 81867838 for...

it's pretty common, a good farm dealer, farm store, or driveshaft repair dealer should have it we called them - "implement yoke - 1 3/8 round bore with key way, be sure of your measurements!

Hoyes has them for $34.95 ea 650 shoes

done

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See if this helps, if not or if you want them, I have PDF’s of the two technical manuals for your 5520. Message me your email and it’s on the way

6C17 March 17,1966

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a T-660-LT is a Hardee Mower FRICTION DISC 6.5" X 2.625" 225-6526 the Hardee Part number for the friction disc is #C-57

the 218353 crosses in NAPA to these two that they might can get in a cap greased fitting Part #: UJS UJ861 Part #: NPJ P861 if you GOOGLE the 218353 or it's replacement 84355036 there are lots of choices out there

Be sure you grease the two fittings on that front pump driveshaft, two of the most neglected ones on a hoe, can cost thousands to repair the damage that shaft can cause if it lets go!

yours is a 1983 850 (-016000) AND 950 (-020000) COMPACT UTILITY TRACTORS PC1876 (H.1) JUL-22 2 / 8 John Deere 950 Tractor 1978 Model Year (Serial No. 001024 – 005228) 1979 Model Year (Serial No. 005229 – 010452) 1980 Model Year (Serial No. 010453 – 014892) 1981 Model Year (Serial No. 014893 –...

increasing the gap only leads to poor chipping performance, excessive strain on the knives, quick dulling of the edge, the only true way on a chipper to increase the chip size is to increase the material input speed. If you think of a pair of scissors, how poorly they cut if loose or if there is...

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send your email to joecdeere@yahoo.com and it's on the way Joe

Just cutting the head off a bolt would be the simplest

I usally do several flushes, which with a good stream of water will get all the acid out, if it concerns you still, make your last flush/fill with a teaspoon of baking soda disolved into the water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar.

plus one on the vinegar, and I let mine sit and run until it gets up to a decent temp and then let it cool off before each drain/flush cycle, the vinegar will dissolve the minerals so they can be flushed out

Hoe detaches pretty easy as a unit, it’s 6 or 8 bolts holding it to the tractor, we took them off all the time for repairs when I was at Ford in the 80’s and 90’s. Do realize that’s in the neighborhood of 4000 or so of very top heavy steel and every cylinder is gonna have air in it so it’s gonna...

it's not really that hard, really get it clean down in there before doing it, and do use a bit of "white Lube" to stick the O-ring in place on the filter place while reaching down in there. as for your dash lights, on the 4X2 there is only the Red parking brake and the green Differential lock light

On the 4x2 the owner added kit was the only way to add the filter, we fussed at Deere when I was there to make it standard, but their answer was it came without it from Kawasaki, owner can buy and add if they wish. We put a lot of the kits on before they ever left the dealer

She’s a 1998 model The model like yours and mine was made from 1993- 2004 1998 Model (SN W004X2X028039-036169)

I was in a Golf and Turf dealer for about 16 years, when they brought out all the electronics and computer crap, we were on there everyday!

D-TAC - Dealer Technical Assistance Center It is a place in the Deere system where dealers can search for problem solutions, both with machines and parts, it is also where a dealer "prepares" a case to submit for assistance with a problem they couldn't correct on their own

done

They are tough, mine is a 98, other than a belt and a starter a couple Of years ago, it’s never failed me. They’re not fancy or fast, but very dependable!

A picture of the gator would help, I believe the 290 engine was used in the 4x2 gator but would have to do some reading. Deere put a serial number plate on the rear, just to the right of the center post where a hitch could be bolted, it was also stamped on the top of the outside of the frame...

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my Massey 135 had the same problem, we used a set of these instead of the crappy bars Tractor is at the farm or I'd got you a better picture, these show what I'm talking about, Tractor Supply and everyone else sells them too adjustable sway chains

interesting, if you punch in your serial number at CNH it gives you - 038450B - 3430 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - (03/90 - 01/98) A 3930 model should start with a "CA5, CA6, CH5, or CN5", have you compared whats on the tag to what's stamped on the bell housing boss just above and behind the...

Very nice, smiling as I walk out to the scrap metal pile!👍

I’m remembering those to be a washable metal screen.

glad you got it fixed, but wanted to put this out incase it helps someone down the road

I’d be calling around to so other dealers, I can see Deere being out of them, but not obsolete, be sure they are placing the order as a “machine down” order, that should get it moved up the line in the system. Lots of dealers will always place their orders as stock orders to get themselves free...

and please get rid of that way too long top link pin before it vibrates over and one of the lift arms catches it and breaks something that you really don't want to buy!

Here’s what a little googling found New Holland 22-123 - FORD 907 SERIES MOWER, 5' FLAIL(01/64 - 12/72) And some good info here from some who have been through this before- https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/v-belts-for-ford-907-fail-mowers.239223/

Disconnect fuel line into filter housing and turn on key and see if it’s pumping a good flow, not just gravity feeding.

Check your private messages for my email

Check your private messages, I have a PDF of the technical manual for your 4110, send me your email and it’s on the way Joe

Have you asked the snapon guy about the used trade in boxes he has?, most have a mini warehouse full, they start to pile up and often can be gotten at a great deal, especially the one side with scratches or small dents in a panel.

manual on the way

phunter, check your private messages for info to contact me Joe

The pressure switch is what Massey used to turn off/on the charging system since there wasn’t an off/on key switch

manual links on the way shortly Joe

It subs several times but the most current number seems to be "YW544-00102 Messicks list it for $1,104.04 !! valve page

wonderful dealer ya got there! TH 6X4 Gator™ Utility Vehicle (Diesel) 2010 Model (Serial No. M06X4DD050001-060000) I have a PDF of both the tech manual and the owners manual you're welcome to, if wanted message me your email and it's on the way

can help with that, check your messages

Very common headlight bulb on the Asian built Fords, Massey’s, Deere, and Kubotas. I can’t remember the number, but my NAPA had them in stock

Google it!, horrible problem, wife’s 13 Escape is on its 4th set of lug nuts. Finally bought some aftermarket all steel ones that don’t swell or corrode. 9 of them had to be destroyed last time the tires were rotated.

Need your email, check your private messages for my address to send to Joe

Usually “Direct message/messaging” I sent him the manual

sent

What number did they give you?

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I’m taking it that you don’t have a service manual, highly believe the snapping isn’t what’s holding the axle in a tractor this size, maybe the outer bearing in place. Almost any tractor axle seal replacement required the removal of the final drive housing to access a nut on the end of the...

Look down by the starter for a short loop on a plastic connector, kubota used a fusible link on a lot of those older tractors to protect them

Do a little searching on the net for MX-6 gearbox failures, lots of issues with the output shaft breaking, really HD mower with a very crappy gearbox

Two totally different things, a slip clutch is to protect your tractor and implement from a sudden PTO stoppage, as in hitting something with your bushhog that it can’t deal with, or getting something caught in your tiller that keeps it from turning while the tractor is still putting power to...

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Catty1 check your messages

Mann+Hummel bought WIX's parent company way back in 2016

Too new for my collection, I’d venture a guess that the printing company Deere uses is running with limited production and fewer employees than normal. I do know that back when I was still working at a dealer, we lost all control of a manual order after it was placed, no updates or anything else...

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Jordan, check your messages

Matt, check your messages

if you go here - click here put 5425 in the search terms, click operators manuals on the left side under "publication group" it will come up and on the right side will be a place to click to download

click for pictures

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