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That was, likely, a Federal effort, or with Federal Blessing, at at time when the land was far less populated, and virtually ZERo paved roads, or cars/trucks to use them. California is quite densely populated with a network of existing buildings, roads and people to be dealt with. Despite...

Did a quick search and it seems this is a push to ban SALES of NEW vehicles, both Diesel AND Gasoline powered. Did not see anything about a ban on USE of existing vehicles of that type. As single minded as Legislatures can be, I do not think any of them, in their membership Majority at least...

Do you have a link to this article? The details are what matter.

Not cheap.

That may apply to silicone caulk or "curing" sealants, but not to silicone paste which stays soft. That is used all the time for weather exposed connectors. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O

That's what I originally daydreamed. Seems thinking things out take longer at 79, one reason I take my time and seek advice more these days. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. Near as I can tell the spool for that valve is rated at about 13 gpm. However, the original line was 1/4 ID...

Got a Kubota B21, with a WR Long 50" 4 in 1 bucket. Hose popped last fall in the middle of a task. Capped the lines, disconnected the solenoid and welded small easy to grind off straps to hold it closed. This spring, converted the pin on bucket to SSQA and, if I say so myself, it came out...

Further discussion has cleared up the confusion on my part. A different spool and detent are required and apparently not readily available. I'm not sure I need a float anyway, for the Top and Tilt (just the tilt) but some have said it can be useful in some cases for box blade or rake use.

That was my original understanding. Still thinking a "float spool" is required.

Supplier did not make any claim like that, just my own speculation as to possibility.

I'm looking to convert my 2 spool (standard A spools) to latching float on at least one spool. The supplier of my valve has a latching detents available which seems to address that. However, despite discussing it with them, I am getting confused over how that can work, with the same "A" type...

Not too late. Had to dig trench for a foundation pour, so put it off, lest I end up with no bucket at all during the dig, pour and back fill. Turns out, one of the worn hoses I was holding off replacing for the 4n1 finally popped, so ended up temporarily welding the jaw shut and installing...

Thanks. Post came a few days after the pour happened. The fellow says he does mostly commercial work, or did, and came recommended by someone that did right by me in the past. When I discussed concrete suppliers, he said he would not use the outfit I first mentioned as their stuff was...

Yeah, but that is for Basic H2, not Basic H. But thanks for the link.

Just looked for Basic H. At $206 for a 5 gallon pail, "pricey" is certainly accurate.

Tried some food grade "orange oil" d-limonene or some such, bought as a de-greaser a while back. That seemed to get it out, with a bit of gentle elbow grease. After that, tossed it in the washer following the instructions on the garment, the dried per the instructions. Still fits and still...

Thanks for all the confidence builders. I had hoped to get this at least framed and sheathed by now, but, a lot of the materials, windows and doors, were delayed by a month or so, due to disruptions by the hurricane. Too late to start that now. I went for an "engineered kit" for this...

I started using it after replacing bushings on the BH pivot. Were "in spec", barely, but, I was in there anyway and it seemed like a good idea. At the time. The "waterproof" feature was attractive. Then. But had I known how nasty it was to clean off clothing, I might just have used some others.

Thanks all. I have some of those cleaners on hand and may give them a try.

That's a LOT of blankets! Thanks for the reply.

I'm putting a 12x16 addition on the south side of house. Foundation is poured, 2" EPS insulation, 6 MIL poly, mesh and PEX (for radiant heat) is in place. However, the weather has turned here in NY with forecast for daytime temps in the mid/upper 30's and lows (nights) in the mid 20's...

While I find this grease to be great for use on the TLB, once it gets on clothing, it seems impossible to get off. Can't wash it off hands easily either. Wipes off relatively easily, but washing it off is another matter. It's real easy, for me, to get it all over and clean up is a task...

I get just got a message that suggests the web site "certificate" is expired. Depends on the Browser and version what the message will be. If you "accept the risk" you can get to the site. How to accept is also browser dependent.

Are they both mounted on the same size rim?

Nah. Takes all the fun out of it. But I did read yours, you should too. It says "grease and change oil", not "maintenance". To me those are different things and I would not go into anything else without further consult. But, that's me. Have a happy.

I've not read all the replies so maybe this is a repeat, but I'd never presume to do ANY work on a borrowed machine without the owners express agreement. I know I'd be pissed off if someone, in the process of "helping me out" did some maintenance on my machine and something went wrong. Just...

I was thinking I could cut the ears off along the same plane as a line through the center of the pin holes, as close to the bucket as possible. With the offset of the pins on the ATI it would add an inch or so to the bottom. Your idea of making mock-ups had not occurred to me. Getting slow I...

Given the weather, not likely for days yet. Mean time, fill me in on why you think that. Edit - What I can do is supply a side view picture of the ATI adapter,

I have a Kubota B21 for which I purchased an ATI SSQA adapter. Pricey, but very well built, to my amateur eyes. Put it on and tested it with a SSQA attachment I had and loved it. But when it came time to being cutting and welding the WRlong bucket, which has a curved back, for whatever...

I have narrower bucket with teeth, that is almost always on the machine. This one came mounted on the machine when I bought it, used. But I found it, generally too wide for most of what I was doing. Now I plan to put an addition on the house and need to dig for the footing. The teeth are...

Smooth edge. Got them all off now. The holes visible in the picture are for the teeth I removed earlier. Now I have spare teeth, I guess. There are similar holes for the outer teeth as well. Once I got the outer teeth off and began grinding to clean up the welded areas the remains of one...

In my limited experience, I just drive over the area many times, each time moving over a bit. After several trips usually the tire tread marks get pretty much overlapped and it does not look to bad. Going in reverse floating the FEL bucket, almost flat, also helps smooth it out. Things...

If you're getting the "stone" that already has sufficient fines in it (called "item 4" or 2A by some around here), then adding more stone dust on top will not help compacting at all. It's the fines mixed in with the stones that holds things together. It might give you a smoother looking...

About ready to cut the pin on ears off a WR Long 4n1 bucket to weld on SSQA adapter. The WR Long has a curved back on the bucket, so hard to figure how much to cut. One gent that did this cut those ears off more or less completely, leaving little on the bucket and used them to weld onto his...

I did not know they made hubbed cutting wheels. Never saw any offered. That should allow pretty much flush cuts. Thanks. Now I see there are "Type 27" cutting disks that seem to have a depressed center to "eat" the locking nut. So many options. Now that I'm done.

Progress being made, slowly. Due to angles and space, cannot cut through all the welds. Even so the "broken bolts" that once held the teeth on are rusted in REAL good. Odd. So, ending up cutting off the tip close to the bucket edge to grind welds a bit more, then cutting down length of the...

Looking into getting a quick attach for BT751 backhoe (for B21). I know Bxpanded makes one, but apparently they can break in "rocky soil" but get replaced under warranty. I emailed them asking about that as I have nothing but rocky soil here, but got no reply. That I noticed. Will check...

The teeth looked the same to me. They're one piece, solid. I added pictures.

I though I had included pictures. I plead "infirmity of years". Mental, apparently. I have tried the angle grinder route with limited success. The "angles" are the big problem. Burned up the "entry level" HF grinder and went with a DeWalt 11 amp model.

I thought I had included pictures.

I have a spare bucket with "teeth". All but the two end teeth were, sort of, easy to remove, the nuts and bolts being amenable to persuasion. If there is a more appropriate location, please move this. However, the two outside teeth are welded on for some reason. The bolt holes were either...

Tried it, but I only had a Vise-grip verion of that and could not get a good grip on it with a cheater bar. So, pipe wrench it was.

Yeah, it is MUCH easier to use the right tool for those "inside" seals. I got a set with three sizes. Doubt I will ever use the "Big One". But it made it almost a joy. Now, the piston seal with the o-ring "tension spring" is another matter. With some assistance created some FreeCAD...

That looks like the set I tried. Has interchangeable heads, pin and flat like that shown. However I found the smallest pin, does not correctly fit the three larger tools. The cylinders are 2 and 2.5, so marginal I guess.

Idea! I do have a vise grip "chain" grip around here. Somewhere. And the used drill bit is genie . . genu. . . uh, a pretty slick idea. That leads to all sorts new ways to bust my knuckles and end up on my ass when it lets loose. Decided to try aftermarket for these. Just about half...

Closest reputable shop is 60 miles away. With a waiting list. The local shops admit they send them out, which is how I found that shop.

Need to find a good relatively cheap tool to help remove a cylinder end cap, with "radial" holes, picture attached. I have tools to remove the ones with holes "on top". Bought a "gear wrench" set on Amazon, which had a video of a guy wailing away on it. Me? broke the pin off first try. And...

For what it's worth, when I first started working on my own tractor, "before I knew better", all the NPT joints I made up dry. Cleaned, but dry. Mainly because I did not see any sealant at all on the existing fitting. Always just "good'n'tight". Can't recall a leak. But it always kind of...

My only thought to "sealants" on non NPT fittings is not to seal but to prevent or reduce corrosion on the threaded, non sealing, parts. I've had a hard time removing some that lived out in the weather for years. I'd never use anything other than hydraulic fluid on oring/mating surface or JIC...

That's interesting. I don't recall from the other discussions I read how new or old the machines in question were. Though I think some of them were pretty new.

I considered boosting it above factory, but, I wimped out. There are two loader cylinders that are weepy as it is. IF the spanner tool comes in today, I will be resealing them. In a nice cool work area. As it will be near 100 today and tomorrow, seems like a good excuse to spend minimum...

About Amazon. People tend to think, for some reason, they are getting "great deals" there. Reality is Amazon prices are very often no savings over local purchase. Sometimes quite a bit more. It almost HAS to be that way. Look at what it costs to sell on Amazon. I found the cost to the...

Yep, that seems to be the case. If spools are all "at rest" the pressure is essentially zero, while moving cylinders there is "some pressure" and when unable to move further, the pressure builds to relief. That what I did to set the relief pressure higher.

Adjusted to relieve at 2000 psi and calling it good.

Posting this is a couple places. Made up a simple pressure gauge to check relief setting on my B21. A simple T fitting with 5000 psi gauge and a QC coupler on each end. It does work and show pressure, indicating about 1800 when the relief actuates. About what I expected and will, unless...

Wow. That is pretty much in line with what I've always thought, except for the tape comments. Pretty much everywhere I've seen was down on tape. I have a couple rolls of tape rated for oil and gas that say "up to 300 psig". AND recommend 4 turns. Probably most of the tape problems...

I'm leaning toward trying that as some vendors recommend it as well. Pricey.

I have that but worry about being sloppy and getting it into fluid. I also have loctite 592 that I have used on engines, but never hydraulic systems.

Lots of old threads and various opinions, but would like to revisit. I've not done much but all the NPT I've done (Kubota B21 2000# nominal) have been "dry" and not leaked. But I gather that is not the norm. Teflon tape seems to be on no ones "good idea" list. Various other solutions, loc...

Yeah, did not think about that, who knows what others run in their machines. With that in mind, rental seems pretty iffy, to me now.

I call them "Kubota ag style". The Kubota TnT kit I installed called them "AG style" I think. No matter, I use those that cross directly to the Kubota part numbers. Lots of them around.

Title says it all. Converting a Kubota B21 mounted WR Long 4n1 bucket to SSQA but there are no QC couplers, it is all "hard connected". Obviously time for QC and new hoses. I was going to just use the Kubota style AG couplers, but I've been told Flat Face is standard and should I rent any...

Can you tell me details about converting the actual bucket? Did you use the WR long Weld on adapters? Are they curved to match the bucket or are they flat?

I see this is a year old post, but, planning to do the same myself. How did it work out? Did you use the WR long weld on adapter plates for the bucket? Do they conform to the curve of the bucket or are they flat?

Getting ready to convert pin on FEL 4n1 bucket (Wr Long on Kubota B21), which has "hard connected" lines from the solenoid valve to the 4n1 jaw cylinders, to SSQA. Obviously, the thing to do is add QC couplers, And replace the well abused original hoses. I bought it that way, in case you...

I happened to be looking for used ones and see one very much like that for sale. A 48" BB-4 model. 4 hours from me though. The Shoule web site does not show that model, BB type smallest is 6 ft. And 30-60 HP advised. Wondering inf the smaller one would be too much for the B21? Do you find...

Bigger machine, etc., not in budget. Won't a "land plane" also just jump over the big rocks?

Not sure if I addressed this already, so - The valve I have now is a two spool, no detent, no float monoblock. I can buy detents for it, but for float, also need a different spool. The economics of doing that or just getting a new valve with those features is a toss up. Either way, the cost...

Thanks. The quarry/yard I spoke to said to figure about 1.3 ton per yard for "item 4", which is 3/8 stone +fines ("bluestone"). The material is cheap enough, the trucking is gonna hurt.

10 years old now. The images can no longer be seen. Any way to see them? Thinking of building one myself.

The rare times I bring in material, I try to do it during dry(er) times. Always irked me that they sell "by the ton" (mostly) but make no allowance for water weight. Never can get a good answer to "how many yards is that?" After all, I need a "Volume" not a "weight". Maybe I'm making too...

Very true. The old(er) farmers liked to complain about that. Always finding new ones when they plow in the spring. Similar thoughts have crossed my mind. There is a low spot in my drive/road that needs exactly that, but seem wasteful to haul in stone. Not found any one that sells just...

I've managed to move the bigger rocks. Getting them out of the ground has proven a real struggle for the bigger ones.

Both to be considered of course. It is not a big machine after all. The ATI tach-all claims 76 pounds, which seems quite low for that amount of steel.

Roughly 30 x 60 I guess. For now. Still a lot of trees to clear out. I did think of that and it might work now that I've torn up enough for it to dry out. But a couple inches down it is still dark and damp. Earlier also mentioned making a "basket" to fit in the bucket, to open it wider...

At first I thought that was what was meant, like the float on the FEL. Did not pick up that he meant the top link control. My top link valve is a simple open center spool no detent. Summit hydraulics 2 spool mono block. I did not see the need for a float at the time, not even sure they...

Well, I can be thick headed at times.Too many half baked ideas running loose. In the dark recesses of what passes for a thinking process I kinda hoped that with a few days extra work, I could "harvest" enough rocks to help fill in/reshape a low area of my road, packing in aggregate as I built...

WOW. Flood or "slide"? How did the house make out?

That's what I have been learning. And now I know at least one definition of "windrowring". Cute what you did with the angle control of your rake. I can control that manually. Been hand picking the bigger ones. I can use the workout. Going slowly is the most difficult part for me...

It's a Woods BSS54. "Top link in Float" threw me for a moment as I know of no specific control for that. But apparently in this case it is just fully lowering the implement, so it "floats". Makes sense? Keeping the box "full-ish" works well also when dealing with "looser-er" material...

Mind telling me what their kit cost? And how long ago, to account for inflation?

Makes a lot more sense to go the SSQA way. Lots of options from there. Many times I have wanted to have something else on the front end. Oh, deary deary me. Well, that's one positive of being divorced, one less person to argue with over money! Sent an email to WR Long asking those very...

Sure. Here ya go. After using it for a while, I feel it limits the range of motion a bit, so I may drill a new hole below the original hole for the bolt and sleeve and move it there and the top link back to the original location. But, maybe not. Depends.

I think they are only a "dealer", but seems I have found the outfit that makes them.

Anyone familiar with this outfit? https://asktractormike.com/product/kubota-tl420-tl421-b21-pin-type-front-end-loader-to-skid-steer-quick-attach-conversion/

I have a good size pile of white pine chips left from when I hired a crew to take down 3 or 4 BIG pine close to the house and power lines. At the very least I could use those as a walkway for pushing that sawmill carriage. If my aging body holds up to it that is.

Something like that had crossed my mind. My machine has a WR Long 4n1 bucket on the front now which I had considered making a "basket" for. Thinking that fabricating some sort of grid that fit, more or less, into the bucket but did not interfere with the jaw opening, or moved when opening...

I have them, never used them. Thought about it in this case, but understood they were mainly for "finish work", like preparing a lawn or some such. Might was well give it a try. Hope springs eternal. I think I spelled those right.

There is more dirt that just "fill in between the rocks", but, there are a lot of rocks. I've been told before that hauling in dirt is the way to go, if looking to make usable yard space. Problem being there are lots of people selling "screened top soil" for lawns and raised garden beds...

I've done that in the past for other tasks. One reason I started trying to do more things myself.

Home owner with a Kubota B21 TLB, Woods box scraper and EA rock rake. Attempting to level, more or less, an area of mixed soil and LOTS of rocks, ranging from "eggs" to a foot or more. Some are rounded, like "river rocks" some are sharp edged as if newly broken up. Might be "fill", but...

The weather held off so I mounted the rake having moved the bolt/sleeve. No interference and it seems to work fine. Now if only the operator knew how to use it correctly . . .

Well, the sleeve was not quite "loose" and required a fair bit of pounding to move. Unfortunately, I was not smart enough to just tap it into the new position, but knocked it completely out. Why does that matter? Because it would not go back in. The gap closed up a bit and I had to go dig...

I moved the bolt and "eyeball" suggests it will work. It's just a bolt and nut through a sleeve. I think it is there to help "hold open" the U shape where the top link eye mounts. I suppose a custom bush for the eye or spacers to make it "tight in the channel" would do almost as much? Never...

Got an EA rock rake a year or so ago. We are all aware of the calamity, so no need to go there. From the git-go, I found there was an issue with the top link mounting design. Otherwise no complaints. Well other that the "special orange paint job". Issue is the Kubota (Gannon) hydraulic top...

The "Caldera" or "super volcano"? Some say it would be a catastrophic event, altering the course of Human life. Others say, not so much. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellowstone_Caldera

No need, pretty simple, an on-off-on toggle with center being the 12v supply. The switch is Otto K1CBEAAAAA

Have an issue with my WR Long 4n1 bucket where the solenoid seem energized all the time. Pulling the fuse to it solved some sudden weird hydraulic control issues. Wondering and hoping it is just the switch or maybe a short hidden from view. Since it is too dark for me to work on it now and...

Wool Wax is better. A bit thicker and does not stink nearly as much.

The TSM calls for a specific adapter, but no longer available. Appears to be just an adapter to connect pressure gauge to test port and allow adjustment. 07916-52391 superseded by 77700-T0077. Just knowing the threads for the case side should be enough. If anyone happens to know.

So, might be a bit dicey. Better to figure the fittings I need to plug into the factory specified port. IIRC it is plugged, so someday I should pull it out an measure up what I need.

Not following. The line I am referring to is the one that is looped back to the tractor when the BH is removed for 3pt hitch use. I would be using it just to set the pump running pressure and then removing it. Of course I am a bit tired so may not be explaining or thinking clearly.

Wanted to check hydraulic pressure on Kubota B21. Thinking to build a test gauge rig that will plug into the Back Hoe circuit at the supply quick connect. Basically a T fitting, pressure gauge and the appropriate quick connects. Unplug the BH supply, plug this in and the BH into it. That is...

I never did get around to this. But, as far as the pressure gauge hookup goes, I think it would be OK top rig up a gauge to a T fitting with an appropriate QC fitting at each end, disconnect the supply to the BH/remote and plug the gauge fixture in the in between. That way I could get an idea...

If "sketchy" move on to something else. Some people say it's a Kubota because the engine may say Kubota on it and ignore the rest. It does amaze me that people can type "Kabota" in their ads when a Machine has KUBOTA decals all over it.

A little late to this conversation, but . . . A "real" TLB does not attach the BH to the 3pt hitch. They are "frame mounted", but usually still removable. Avoid 3pt hitch backhoe's like the plague. Fragile, sloppy and dangerous. IMHO.

Can't have anything to do with safety and making it easy to identify stored fuel.

Here in NY there are signs on the pumps warning to use only Yellow cans for diesel. Also to use only "approved" fuel containers. Seems to be legal/"fire marshall" thing. Red for "gasoline" , yellow for diesel, blue for kerosene.

I saw a post in a Kubota FB group about EA declaring bankruptcy. Since it originated on a TYM group, thought it was BS, but the EA FB group is "paused" as of 2/1/2024 Their web site appears unchanged. I called but could only leave a message. Anyone know the real scoop?

Careful. Did the Dealer claim it was a 2023, 2022, or any year? If not, you got nothing to claim against him. While we might think differently, Kubota goes by "date put in service", which means I think, the day it was purchased. Personally I think that leads to problems, but, it is what...

Either way, you're right. I had always heard these tales of "great deals" at auctions. Must have been an alternate universe.

Thanks for all the comments. After a quick call to the auction house, I had a good feeling about the item I was interested in. Apparently so did a lot of others. I had set a limit for my bids which allowed for transportation costs. I was out with the first bid. Hammer price, with the...

All good points. The stuff I'm looking at are well known and well regarded. The actual condition, however is clearly not known. They are too far for it to be practical for me to inspect myself and finding a "buyers agent" is probably not gonna happen. Some have clearly been out in the...

Advice for buying at auction, Internet bidding. So is bidding on equipment a compact TLB in this case, just another case of "A Fool and his money? Or is it reasonable to give them a shot? There are some fairly low hour "clean looking" machines listed, but it is problematic getting an...

I have the HF version. Thought it was great, at first. Then, it became a problem, dragging out the hose, wrestling with the hose, and putting stuff away. Still it was better than greasing by hand which for me was becoming a painful experience. And time consuming. Bought a Dewalt 20v...

Not to get into a battle over this, but both are not true. "Heat" does not rise. All stop. Only heated fluids or gases "rise", or give rise to "convention currents". I commented not as an attack on BlueKnife but to correct a possible misconception. While I recognize what he may have meant...

Ask them, see what they say. You can always ask/tell them to drain it out, You can always replace it, or not, with your own mixture.

A common misconception. Heat "moves" toward cold, in any direction, it does not "rise". Heated Air, water or any fluid or gas, will tend to "rise" as it is less dense than the cooler air, etc., which is probably where that idea comes from.

You can "resolve" to never get notified of this thread again. Scroll to the upper right and look for:

Thanks. You just saved me a lot of investigative work! Signed, johnny c. lately.

Or a Lawyer. In Canada, probably have some Government agencies that would be interested.

Please notice, and with the extra large format you chose it should be fairly easy to find, that "retailers that don't service vehicles", "but sell AT LEAST 1000 gallons per year", must accept used oil or contract for someone that will "accept it on their behalf". So, I was right. BFD anyway.

The Internet is a wonderful thing. "Online Calculators & Tools - RapidTables.com"

I'm in NY and don't think that can be 100% true, as lots of "convenience" stores and even supermarkets sell quarts of motor oil. I doubt they will take any used oil. Never tried to drop any used off there though.

Got a Woods Box Scraper BSS60 couple years ago. Been using it maybe once a year. Dawned on me today there is a bit of "slop" in the hole for the top link. Got a Cat 1 top link, 3/4 inch eye and pin. The user manual does not mention bushings or show any. I guess is shouldn't as it does say...

"Spray Lube" or "Rust Buster"? For rust busting I used to use Kroil, but the price has gotten outrageous. I've started using a 50/50 (or so) mix of Acetone and ATF. I have some old Sure Shot sprayers that I refurbished and use, one with a long nylon flex hose. Works quite well, better so...

WD-40 can be a "mild" lubricant or work to "loosen" thickened oil or grease in joints. Wool Wax is available in spray cans. It stinks less than FF.

Trying to remove the right floor pan on a B21, Got it free (bolts, 2 springs, hairpin clip removed) and can move it around, but not out. No matter how I attack it, it jams up against something. Ideas? Sawzall is a no go.

I suspect there are just a lot of keyboard kowboys and bloviating business men throwing those numbers around. Facebook is full of posers.

My first thought was to grind them. Even considered a 3pt grinder, Woodland mills or Baumalight, but besides the cost, some say grinders are very hard on smaller machines. At the speed I can work these days, rental does not seem feasible. And, I have the ripper.

Certainly a thought. That might not work here as it may, or may not, be in the path with where a foundation footing/wall will be. Maybe, someday. Which, of course, partly solves the "how to fill it question". But right now, it's a problem for continued clearing work. Which it was...

1050 hours. Had just around 800 when I got it. In service 2006 per Kubota. Mostly been leaky hoses and seals deteriorating from age and weather no major issues. Did replace one injector line I could not get to stop dripping and a couple of hard lines that got mashed one way or another. I...

Forgot to update this, as if it really matters. Short story, job complete and seems to work well, less "slop", and seems to dig better, but occasionally hear a "screetch" when swinging the boom almost all the way to the right. I did change some bushings in the cylinder ends, the pivot pin...

On some tractors (my B21 for example) there is a manual lever/valve that has one position for BH an other for 3pt use. I experienced some wonky behavior when I forgot or moved with with my knee.

I've been using a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone as a penetrating oil which I am now a believer in/of. My nephew asked if MM would work as well. Maybe give that a try and compare to Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.

While doing seals on boom cylinder decided to change bushings and whatever on boom and swing as it seemed a bit sloppy. Found the set/lock screws for the pivot pins were loose, backed part way out. Getting things apart found the holes in the pins were "hogged out" and the threads pretty much...

It's a thought. I have the BH main frame blocked up pretty well and the stabilizers are out, so not too worried about that tipping. I may hook it up again just so I can remove the bucket, which will also make manipulating the boom easier manually. Since it was curled to take off the BH, now I...

Planning to reseal boom cylinder. The BH is in the "removed from tractor" position, which makes it a task to remove the boom cylinder. The swing cylinders are still out as I resealed them and figure it is easier to move the boom, etc, when they are not in the way. I expect to replace the...

Can someone supply the weight of the BT751 BH? I need to lift the boom enough to swing the boom to one side, so as to remove the boom cylinder for servicing. This is a backyard deal, not a shop floor, so I am improvising. The swing cylinders are already out, so it should swing easily...

You the man, thanks much. I am so used to not seeing fastener specs I did not see listed and just assumed metric. I suppose I can still try the longer bolt idea though, yes? The 1/2x20 thread restore tap worked well to clean up the threads, one giving me a very hard time, but, seems good, in...

Wonder if that was the problem? Someone used the wrong bolts? I get that the markings are "not metric", from what I found on the net. The BH tags says built in GA. The restore tap I ran down the hole is definitely a 12x1.25 and it gave almost no resistance at all, I only needed a hand wrench...

I had not thought of that. Now that I measure things up, those bolts only go in about the depth of the galling, so you may be right. The hole depth is about 29mm, the thickness of the plate the support bolts up to is 12mm, the flat and lock washers about 6mm. So a bolt of about 45mm of...

Swing cylinders leaking on the BH and finally getting around to resealing them. While pulling off the "support" (the top pivot point for the cylinders) the bolts were very reluctant to come off. Made sure there was no stress on the bar or cylinders to cause that. All four of them were...

Most are football size to suitcase size. One goal is to clear up enough for a barn or large shed with a "hard" floor, which means a monolithic slab or something like that. Which does not really need what I originally asked about. The other is to clear enough to garden in, or on, but it seems...

An acre or two at this time. Maybe more later if it turns out well.

Kubota B21 with a WR Long 4 in 1 bucket. Got some very rocky soil, some call "glacial till", but all I know is the rocks are many and vary in size from softball to 55 gallon drum size some are sharp, some rounded. I was hoping my new EA "rock rake" would be enough, but, while it is willing...

Did not notice fluid was low, due to a leaky cylinder I forgot about. After topping it up, it seems better all around.

Several times now have experienced a "pop/clunk" and a bit of a "jerk" when starting out and just rolling slowly. Could be my imagination, or being on gravel, but is seems a bit "bumpy" too. It only does it occasionally, not constantly or consistent with any particular motion, but, maybe when...

Thanks for all the comments, especially about the teeth. I'm looking into that now. I've seen some aftermarket that say for Bauma Lite but don't list the ip24 as a fit and some others specifically for the Woodland Mills. Pricey little buggers either way. And most are offered without the...

Any idea where to find used or discounted ones?

Start here, move if appropriate. Got a Kubota B21 that should, just, run this off the rear PTO. Questions are, anyone know the reputation and reliability of this baumalight oufit. They're in Ontario. I was looking at their tree spade but it needs hydraulic pressure of 2900+ and the B21...

From the angle in the photo it looks like 1.668 inches, but given "parallax" it is probably 1.665 or so, if it were viewed "dead on square" to the dial, or, 42.291 mm. It looks like a pipe for a fence post, so why is accuracy an issue?

Yeah, I agree. Ethanol was a solution looking for a problem. Never would have flown but for the persistent lobbying (and donations?) of Industry PAC's and/or "lobbyists". Funny that, in effect, corn became the only "raw stock" for ethanol production at those volumes. The thing about...

I'm kinda astonished to hear all these praises of SeaFoam. Admittedly never used it in gas or oil like you guys have, but years ago I tried the "carbon soak test" on some valves and an injector from an old Peugeot 504 diesel engine that had caked on carbon, as a test, as there were claims you...

Probably the wrong place, but, I have a Dewalt portable compressor with a working pressure of 200 PSI. All the drain hose kits I see on ebazon claim 175 as the working pressure. While that might seem like a "probably work fine" non issue, I really don't want to put up with the noise and...

I just buy "fat wood" sticks wherever I can find them. Local hardware, tractor supply, etc. Just very resinous type of wood sticks. Pretty cheap. 2 or 3 sticks, no muss, no fuss, light right up and never fail. So far. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/fat%20wood?

HF sells a simple pump. I have the earlier version. Shaft leaks a bit but it works fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=5%20gallon%20pump

A lot of the comments say the grommets rust easily. Did you find that to be so? Are there stainless grommets that will work with this tool?

Not much room under there for sure. That should be enough to get me going. Not sure if the damper is to slow return to neutral if one lets off the pedal abruptly to act as a resistance to sudden changes in pedal position. Both? The price of the damper is now $134.xx which gives me pause...

OK thanks. It took me a few minutes to orient my brain, such as it remains, but have a better idea now what I might be facing. Thanks much for your efforts.

No idea yet. Have to measure the thickness and go from there. The ones I ordered do not show the thickness. None of the ads did. They are all beveled at the weld edge so, I guess I'll start low and check penetration. Gotta tack it in place anyway, so I'd use that as a hint. Gotta...

"leading edge"? Open or closed end? Everyone I've seen has the open end of the hook facing back toward the operator.

Aha! Saves me the trouble of looking dumber than I already proved. I was gonna ask how to best use the three. Now no one needs to know I did not know . . . oh, wait.

Thanks for the replies. I should not post before my 2nd cup. I ordered a weld on receiver to put in the middle just yesterday, so . . .

I've welded 1/4 plate with .035. Amps and wire speed as well as the speed of moving the torch should adjusted for best penetration.

You made me realize I'm not thinking clearly today. I need a receiver in the middle anyway, so . . .

About to order some weld on grab hooks for front bucket for B21. 54 inches wide or so. Was going to put 2 hooks a few inches in from each end, but have seen some with 3, one in middle. Any real reason to put a middle one in?

Sure. Price is always a concern. Give me an idea, medium or small flat rate? And how to pay for them.

What would you want to ship me a few?

Then there are those that say stuff like that in hopes that it will make people bid high, so he can come in lower. It's a bit like inflation, talking BS to make the prices go up. All the time with a hidden motive.

How do you deal with oil contamination of the nick? I'd probably want to practice on used a scrap rod, but have no source for them.

I do have a multi purpose welder, but have not tried the TIG setup yet. Have not done TIG in 40 years. I'd have to find a shop to do the rod fabrication or get one from Kubota. Several hundred, but imagine a shop would not be much cheaper.

I was thinking a bit of JB Weld, but have reservations about how it would hold, over time, under hot oil and heavy usage. Not so much it would not last, but that it might break free and float about in the hydraulics, eventually to cause mischief in a valve or some such. Brazing is a bit of a...

The die grinding would take a steadier hand than mine. What about gouges on the rod? Braze them full too? Over a certain size?

Want to use an effective, as in "it works", water based or soluble cleaner to de-grease parts of the machine, specifically the hydraulic cylinders. My "make do" efforts using mineral spirits, brush, buckets and brake cleaner leave a lot to be desired. Waddaya suggest? Krud Kutter is in...

Did put both rods in the press and got them within spec. I can't do much about the nicks except file/polish so there are no sharpies felt. Even if I got new ones, they'd get dinged up before long. Got them assembled and installed, even re-painted, and so far, no leaks. Dipper stick...

I think first I need to straighten the rod first. Seems .018 inch bend is a bit too much. About 2x Kubota specs.

The chrome is not flaking at all, seems quite solid. The wounds are about mid way so I guess I could attempt to remember not to set the stabilizers in that area and move past it quickly. I've "polished" it a bit (1200 grit) and the scratches have improved (maybe just hard crud?) and there are...

I 3D printed a few for my Kubota B21. They worked fine. The slider (a) is necessary IMHO, the "corrector" works if you can get a good smooth print. Otherwise compress the seal with a properly sized hose clamp, using a cutout from a soda or beer can Also made a "pusher" a device with...

Kubota BT751 backhoe stabilizer cylinder was leaking. Seals pretty much crumbled during removal. Upon inspection the rod has scratches about mid way, most of which pass the finger nail test. A small cluster about the area of a pea, near a small nick, maybe sesame seed size, can be felt by...

I've run into dealers of vehicles and other things that are like that. I've even had new car dealers attempt to refuse warranty coverage because I did not buy from them. As far as your filters and other parts, shop online. I am sure there are MF dealers that offer parts online. You might be...

Sorry, I don't see anything or any attachment.

Got any pictures of it?

How do the grommets hold up over time, distortion and rust for instance? Any tricks to getting square secure grommets with it? Some of the reviews claim they rust quickly and don't always install square. Last part is probably operator error.

How do the eyelets hold up? Link to the tool?

Where is that?

Yeah, I think I will stick with either the HF infrared pistol, or the thermocouple plug in for my multimeter. It is probably not "overheating" anyway, touching any surface that is over 120 F is likely to cause a reaction, especially if unexpected. I rarely smell the hydraulic fluid unless...

The oil cooler is an "open tube" design, basically a pipe bent into a bunch of "u-turns", nothing much to plug up.

It sits in front of the engine radiator and mechanical drive fan. Seems to be "full flow" design.

I've not found a thing about oil cooler size, or even hot oil regarding the B21.

Got ya. Yeah, I guess it could be seen as "passing the buck". I the Corporate world of today, it seems a mild faux pas. I'm 76, raised in the NE and do remember when some Corporations would show some "stand up ness" when something was iffy. I tend to get a bit "lawyer-ly, seeing this as...

Thanks for the information. However, I don't see that letter as showing Kubota to be unethical at all. Maybe I missed something. It was a 3rd party apparently not associated with Kubota, that did the unethical thing. Kubota attempted to get a list of customers to contact them and...

I run SUDT in the hydraulics. It has the standard B21 oil cooler. Guess you bought yours used? Certainly Kubota did not sell it to you with something other than SUDT in it?

Do you have hydrostatic or gear drive? Mine is hydro and a shared hydraulic system, so it can get pretty hot at times. I'll run it later today or tomorrow and try to measure it on the pipe surface.

Seems every now and then, subscribed to posts do not notify me of new messages. Sorry if anyone feels slighted by no direct reply. The lay downs will be up to several inches as I want to, at the very least, improve the surface to encourage quicker run off to the side and discourage those...

One is the "tank" return, the other is the power beyond line. What burns me are the steel fittings that go into the valve. Only after working the implement, in this case a box blade, a lot while "fixing" washouts in the road. I don't know that I'd get a serious burn if I reacted slowly, but...

What can I use to protect from burns due to hot hydraulic lines and fittings? I could fabricate a metal shield, but it might be simpler to just wrap the hose end and fittings with something like woven hose protector and leave it a bit loose. Would not prevent a determined fool from getting...

I've been looking for an excuse to buy a plate compactor for a couple small projects but figured it would be too tough to maneuver up and down the slope of the road. I suppose I could just compact downhill and bring in back up the slope with the TLB or some such. The HF is certainly price...

The going rate for a 1.5 ton in this area is Daily $300 Weekly $894. Takes my breath away. These days it's in short supply. After looking at some of the DOT documents on I found linked to in another post, I may just be better off doing this in smaller steps with the aim to improve water run...

Only things I am seeing around here, for "ride ons" are asking in the $20k and up range. Anything below that tends to be a "walk behind/tow hitch" deal. And iffy looking at that. Or plate compactors which seem ultra impractical for a road job. May look at auctions, but probably better off...