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The TSM calls for a specific adapter, but no longer available. Appears to be just an adapter to connect pressure gauge to test port and allow adjustment. 07916-52391 superseded by 77700-T0077. Just knowing the threads for the case side should be enough. If anyone happens to know.

So, might be a bit dicey. Better to figure the fittings I need to plug into the factory specified port. IIRC it is plugged, so someday I should pull it out an measure up what I need.

Not following. The line I am referring to is the one that is looped back to the tractor when the BH is removed for 3pt hitch use. I would be using it just to set the pump running pressure and then removing it. Of course I am a bit tired so may not be explaining or thinking clearly.

Wanted to check hydraulic pressure on Kubota B21. Thinking to build a test gauge rig that will plug into the Back Hoe circuit at the supply quick connect. Basically a T fitting, pressure gauge and the appropriate quick connects. Unplug the BH supply, plug this in and the BH into it. That is...

I never did get around to this. But, as far as the pressure gauge hookup goes, I think it would be OK top rig up a gauge to a T fitting with an appropriate QC fitting at each end, disconnect the supply to the BH/remote and plug the gauge fixture in the in between. That way I could get an idea...

If "sketchy" move on to something else. Some people say it's a Kubota because the engine may say Kubota on it and ignore the rest. It does amaze me that people can type "Kabota" in their ads when a Machine has KUBOTA decals all over it.

A little late to this conversation, but . . . A "real" TLB does not attach the BH to the 3pt hitch. They are "frame mounted", but usually still removable. Avoid 3pt hitch backhoe's like the plague. Fragile, sloppy and dangerous. IMHO.

Can't have anything to do with safety and making it easy to identify stored fuel.

Here in NY there are signs on the pumps warning to use only Yellow cans for diesel. Also to use only "approved" fuel containers. Seems to be legal/"fire marshall" thing. Red for "gasoline" , yellow for diesel, blue for kerosene.

I saw a post in a Kubota FB group about EA declaring bankruptcy. Since it originated on a TYM group, thought it was BS, but the EA FB group is "paused" as of 2/1/2024 Their web site appears unchanged. I called but could only leave a message. Anyone know the real scoop?

Careful. Did the Dealer claim it was a 2023, 2022, or any year? If not, you got nothing to claim against him. While we might think differently, Kubota goes by "date put in service", which means I think, the day it was purchased. Personally I think that leads to problems, but, it is what...

Either way, you're right. I had always heard these tales of "great deals" at auctions. Must have been an alternate universe.

Thanks for all the comments. After a quick call to the auction house, I had a good feeling about the item I was interested in. Apparently so did a lot of others. I had set a limit for my bids which allowed for transportation costs. I was out with the first bid. Hammer price, with the...

All good points. The stuff I'm looking at are well known and well regarded. The actual condition, however is clearly not known. They are too far for it to be practical for me to inspect myself and finding a "buyers agent" is probably not gonna happen. Some have clearly been out in the...

Advice for buying at auction, Internet bidding. So is bidding on equipment a compact TLB in this case, just another case of "A Fool and his money? Or is it reasonable to give them a shot? There are some fairly low hour "clean looking" machines listed, but it is problematic getting an...

I have the HF version. Thought it was great, at first. Then, it became a problem, dragging out the hose, wrestling with the hose, and putting stuff away. Still it was better than greasing by hand which for me was becoming a painful experience. And time consuming. Bought a Dewalt 20v...

Not to get into a battle over this, but both are not true. "Heat" does not rise. All stop. Only heated fluids or gases "rise", or give rise to "convention currents". I commented not as an attack on BlueKnife but to correct a possible misconception. While I recognize what he may have meant...

Ask them, see what they say. You can always ask/tell them to drain it out, You can always replace it, or not, with your own mixture.

A common misconception. Heat "moves" toward cold, in any direction, it does not "rise". Heated Air, water or any fluid or gas, will tend to "rise" as it is less dense than the cooler air, etc., which is probably where that idea comes from.

You can "resolve" to never get notified of this thread again. Scroll to the upper right and look for:

Thanks. You just saved me a lot of investigative work! Signed, johnny c. lately.

Or a Lawyer. In Canada, probably have some Government agencies that would be interested.

Please notice, and with the extra large format you chose it should be fairly easy to find, that "retailers that don't service vehicles", "but sell AT LEAST 1000 gallons per year", must accept used oil or contract for someone that will "accept it on their behalf". So, I was right. BFD anyway.

The Internet is a wonderful thing. "Online Calculators & Tools - RapidTables.com"

I'm in NY and don't think that can be 100% true, as lots of "convenience" stores and even supermarkets sell quarts of motor oil. I doubt they will take any used oil. Never tried to drop any used off there though.

Got a Woods Box Scraper BSS60 couple years ago. Been using it maybe once a year. Dawned on me today there is a bit of "slop" in the hole for the top link. Got a Cat 1 top link, 3/4 inch eye and pin. The user manual does not mention bushings or show any. I guess is shouldn't as it does say...

"Spray Lube" or "Rust Buster"? For rust busting I used to use Kroil, but the price has gotten outrageous. I've started using a 50/50 (or so) mix of Acetone and ATF. I have some old Sure Shot sprayers that I refurbished and use, one with a long nylon flex hose. Works quite well, better so...

WD-40 can be a "mild" lubricant or work to "loosen" thickened oil or grease in joints. Wool Wax is available in spray cans. It stinks less than FF.

Trying to remove the right floor pan on a B21, Got it free (bolts, 2 springs, hairpin clip removed) and can move it around, but not out. No matter how I attack it, it jams up against something. Ideas? Sawzall is a no go.

I suspect there are just a lot of keyboard kowboys and bloviating business men throwing those numbers around. Facebook is full of posers.

My first thought was to grind them. Even considered a 3pt grinder, Woodland mills or Baumalight, but besides the cost, some say grinders are very hard on smaller machines. At the speed I can work these days, rental does not seem feasible. And, I have the ripper.

Certainly a thought. That might not work here as it may, or may not, be in the path with where a foundation footing/wall will be. Maybe, someday. Which, of course, partly solves the "how to fill it question". But right now, it's a problem for continued clearing work. Which it was...

1050 hours. Had just around 800 when I got it. In service 2006 per Kubota. Mostly been leaky hoses and seals deteriorating from age and weather no major issues. Did replace one injector line I could not get to stop dripping and a couple of hard lines that got mashed one way or another. I...

Forgot to update this, as if it really matters. Short story, job complete and seems to work well, less "slop", and seems to dig better, but occasionally hear a "screetch" when swinging the boom almost all the way to the right. I did change some bushings in the cylinder ends, the pivot pin...

On some tractors (my B21 for example) there is a manual lever/valve that has one position for BH an other for 3pt use. I experienced some wonky behavior when I forgot or moved with with my knee.

I've been using a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone as a penetrating oil which I am now a believer in/of. My nephew asked if MM would work as well. Maybe give that a try and compare to Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.

While doing seals on boom cylinder decided to change bushings and whatever on boom and swing as it seemed a bit sloppy. Found the set/lock screws for the pivot pins were loose, backed part way out. Getting things apart found the holes in the pins were "hogged out" and the threads pretty much...

It's a thought. I have the BH main frame blocked up pretty well and the stabilizers are out, so not too worried about that tipping. I may hook it up again just so I can remove the bucket, which will also make manipulating the boom easier manually. Since it was curled to take off the BH, now I...

Planning to reseal boom cylinder. The BH is in the "removed from tractor" position, which makes it a task to remove the boom cylinder. The swing cylinders are still out as I resealed them and figure it is easier to move the boom, etc, when they are not in the way. I expect to replace the...

Can someone supply the weight of the BT751 BH? I need to lift the boom enough to swing the boom to one side, so as to remove the boom cylinder for servicing. This is a backyard deal, not a shop floor, so I am improvising. The swing cylinders are already out, so it should swing easily...

You the man, thanks much. I am so used to not seeing fastener specs I did not see listed and just assumed metric. I suppose I can still try the longer bolt idea though, yes? The 1/2x20 thread restore tap worked well to clean up the threads, one giving me a very hard time, but, seems good, in...

Wonder if that was the problem? Someone used the wrong bolts? I get that the markings are "not metric", from what I found on the net. The BH tags says built in GA. The restore tap I ran down the hole is definitely a 12x1.25 and it gave almost no resistance at all, I only needed a hand wrench...

I had not thought of that. Now that I measure things up, those bolts only go in about the depth of the galling, so you may be right. The hole depth is about 29mm, the thickness of the plate the support bolts up to is 12mm, the flat and lock washers about 6mm. So a bolt of about 45mm of...

Swing cylinders leaking on the BH and finally getting around to resealing them. While pulling off the "support" (the top pivot point for the cylinders) the bolts were very reluctant to come off. Made sure there was no stress on the bar or cylinders to cause that. All four of them were...

Most are football size to suitcase size. One goal is to clear up enough for a barn or large shed with a "hard" floor, which means a monolithic slab or something like that. Which does not really need what I originally asked about. The other is to clear enough to garden in, or on, but it seems...

An acre or two at this time. Maybe more later if it turns out well.

Kubota B21 with a WR Long 4 in 1 bucket. Got some very rocky soil, some call "glacial till", but all I know is the rocks are many and vary in size from softball to 55 gallon drum size some are sharp, some rounded. I was hoping my new EA "rock rake" would be enough, but, while it is willing...

Did not notice fluid was low, due to a leaky cylinder I forgot about. After topping it up, it seems better all around.

Several times now have experienced a "pop/clunk" and a bit of a "jerk" when starting out and just rolling slowly. Could be my imagination, or being on gravel, but is seems a bit "bumpy" too. It only does it occasionally, not constantly or consistent with any particular motion, but, maybe when...

Thanks for all the comments, especially about the teeth. I'm looking into that now. I've seen some aftermarket that say for Bauma Lite but don't list the ip24 as a fit and some others specifically for the Woodland Mills. Pricey little buggers either way. And most are offered without the...

Any idea where to find used or discounted ones?

Start here, move if appropriate. Got a Kubota B21 that should, just, run this off the rear PTO. Questions are, anyone know the reputation and reliability of this baumalight oufit. They're in Ontario. I was looking at their tree spade but it needs hydraulic pressure of 2900+ and the B21...

From the angle in the photo it looks like 1.668 inches, but given "parallax" it is probably 1.665 or so, if it were viewed "dead on square" to the dial, or, 42.291 mm. It looks like a pipe for a fence post, so why is accuracy an issue?

Yeah, I agree. Ethanol was a solution looking for a problem. Never would have flown but for the persistent lobbying (and donations?) of Industry PAC's and/or "lobbyists". Funny that, in effect, corn became the only "raw stock" for ethanol production at those volumes. The thing about...

I'm kinda astonished to hear all these praises of SeaFoam. Admittedly never used it in gas or oil like you guys have, but years ago I tried the "carbon soak test" on some valves and an injector from an old Peugeot 504 diesel engine that had caked on carbon, as a test, as there were claims you...

Probably the wrong place, but, I have a Dewalt portable compressor with a working pressure of 200 PSI. All the drain hose kits I see on ebazon claim 175 as the working pressure. While that might seem like a "probably work fine" non issue, I really don't want to put up with the noise and...

I just buy "fat wood" sticks wherever I can find them. Local hardware, tractor supply, etc. Just very resinous type of wood sticks. Pretty cheap. 2 or 3 sticks, no muss, no fuss, light right up and never fail. So far. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/fat%20wood?

HF sells a simple pump. I have the earlier version. Shaft leaks a bit but it works fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=5%20gallon%20pump

A lot of the comments say the grommets rust easily. Did you find that to be so? Are there stainless grommets that will work with this tool?

Not much room under there for sure. That should be enough to get me going. Not sure if the damper is to slow return to neutral if one lets off the pedal abruptly to act as a resistance to sudden changes in pedal position. Both? The price of the damper is now $134.xx which gives me pause...

OK thanks. It took me a few minutes to orient my brain, such as it remains, but have a better idea now what I might be facing. Thanks much for your efforts.

No idea yet. Have to measure the thickness and go from there. The ones I ordered do not show the thickness. None of the ads did. They are all beveled at the weld edge so, I guess I'll start low and check penetration. Gotta tack it in place anyway, so I'd use that as a hint. Gotta...

"leading edge"? Open or closed end? Everyone I've seen has the open end of the hook facing back toward the operator.

Aha! Saves me the trouble of looking dumber than I already proved. I was gonna ask how to best use the three. Now no one needs to know I did not know . . . oh, wait.

Thanks for the replies. I should not post before my 2nd cup. I ordered a weld on receiver to put in the middle just yesterday, so . . .

I've welded 1/4 plate with .035. Amps and wire speed as well as the speed of moving the torch should adjusted for best penetration.

You made me realize I'm not thinking clearly today. I need a receiver in the middle anyway, so . . .

About to order some weld on grab hooks for front bucket for B21. 54 inches wide or so. Was going to put 2 hooks a few inches in from each end, but have seen some with 3, one in middle. Any real reason to put a middle one in?

Sure. Price is always a concern. Give me an idea, medium or small flat rate? And how to pay for them.

What would you want to ship me a few?

Then there are those that say stuff like that in hopes that it will make people bid high, so he can come in lower. It's a bit like inflation, talking BS to make the prices go up. All the time with a hidden motive.

How do you deal with oil contamination of the nick? I'd probably want to practice on used a scrap rod, but have no source for them.

I do have a multi purpose welder, but have not tried the TIG setup yet. Have not done TIG in 40 years. I'd have to find a shop to do the rod fabrication or get one from Kubota. Several hundred, but imagine a shop would not be much cheaper.

I was thinking a bit of JB Weld, but have reservations about how it would hold, over time, under hot oil and heavy usage. Not so much it would not last, but that it might break free and float about in the hydraulics, eventually to cause mischief in a valve or some such. Brazing is a bit of a...

The die grinding would take a steadier hand than mine. What about gouges on the rod? Braze them full too? Over a certain size?

Want to use an effective, as in "it works", water based or soluble cleaner to de-grease parts of the machine, specifically the hydraulic cylinders. My "make do" efforts using mineral spirits, brush, buckets and brake cleaner leave a lot to be desired. Waddaya suggest? Krud Kutter is in...

Did put both rods in the press and got them within spec. I can't do much about the nicks except file/polish so there are no sharpies felt. Even if I got new ones, they'd get dinged up before long. Got them assembled and installed, even re-painted, and so far, no leaks. Dipper stick...

I think first I need to straighten the rod first. Seems .018 inch bend is a bit too much. About 2x Kubota specs.

The chrome is not flaking at all, seems quite solid. The wounds are about mid way so I guess I could attempt to remember not to set the stabilizers in that area and move past it quickly. I've "polished" it a bit (1200 grit) and the scratches have improved (maybe just hard crud?) and there are...

I 3D printed a few for my Kubota B21. They worked fine. The slider (a) is necessary IMHO, the "corrector" works if you can get a good smooth print. Otherwise compress the seal with a properly sized hose clamp, using a cutout from a soda or beer can Also made a "pusher" a device with...

Kubota BT751 backhoe stabilizer cylinder was leaking. Seals pretty much crumbled during removal. Upon inspection the rod has scratches about mid way, most of which pass the finger nail test. A small cluster about the area of a pea, near a small nick, maybe sesame seed size, can be felt by...

I've run into dealers of vehicles and other things that are like that. I've even had new car dealers attempt to refuse warranty coverage because I did not buy from them. As far as your filters and other parts, shop online. I am sure there are MF dealers that offer parts online. You might be...

Sorry, I don't see anything or any attachment.

Got any pictures of it?

How do the grommets hold up over time, distortion and rust for instance? Any tricks to getting square secure grommets with it? Some of the reviews claim they rust quickly and don't always install square. Last part is probably operator error.

How do the eyelets hold up? Link to the tool?

Where is that?

Yeah, I think I will stick with either the HF infrared pistol, or the thermocouple plug in for my multimeter. It is probably not "overheating" anyway, touching any surface that is over 120 F is likely to cause a reaction, especially if unexpected. I rarely smell the hydraulic fluid unless...

The oil cooler is an "open tube" design, basically a pipe bent into a bunch of "u-turns", nothing much to plug up.

It sits in front of the engine radiator and mechanical drive fan. Seems to be "full flow" design.

I've not found a thing about oil cooler size, or even hot oil regarding the B21.

Got ya. Yeah, I guess it could be seen as "passing the buck". I the Corporate world of today, it seems a mild faux pas. I'm 76, raised in the NE and do remember when some Corporations would show some "stand up ness" when something was iffy. I tend to get a bit "lawyer-ly, seeing this as...

Thanks for the information. However, I don't see that letter as showing Kubota to be unethical at all. Maybe I missed something. It was a 3rd party apparently not associated with Kubota, that did the unethical thing. Kubota attempted to get a list of customers to contact them and...

I run SUDT in the hydraulics. It has the standard B21 oil cooler. Guess you bought yours used? Certainly Kubota did not sell it to you with something other than SUDT in it?

Do you have hydrostatic or gear drive? Mine is hydro and a shared hydraulic system, so it can get pretty hot at times. I'll run it later today or tomorrow and try to measure it on the pipe surface.

Seems every now and then, subscribed to posts do not notify me of new messages. Sorry if anyone feels slighted by no direct reply. The lay downs will be up to several inches as I want to, at the very least, improve the surface to encourage quicker run off to the side and discourage those...

One is the "tank" return, the other is the power beyond line. What burns me are the steel fittings that go into the valve. Only after working the implement, in this case a box blade, a lot while "fixing" washouts in the road. I don't know that I'd get a serious burn if I reacted slowly, but...

What can I use to protect from burns due to hot hydraulic lines and fittings? I could fabricate a metal shield, but it might be simpler to just wrap the hose end and fittings with something like woven hose protector and leave it a bit loose. Would not prevent a determined fool from getting...

I've been looking for an excuse to buy a plate compactor for a couple small projects but figured it would be too tough to maneuver up and down the slope of the road. I suppose I could just compact downhill and bring in back up the slope with the TLB or some such. The HF is certainly price...

The going rate for a 1.5 ton in this area is Daily $300 Weekly $894. Takes my breath away. These days it's in short supply. After looking at some of the DOT documents on I found linked to in another post, I may just be better off doing this in smaller steps with the aim to improve water run...

Only things I am seeing around here, for "ride ons" are asking in the $20k and up range. Anything below that tends to be a "walk behind/tow hitch" deal. And iffy looking at that. Or plate compactors which seem ultra impractical for a road job. May look at auctions, but probably better off...

Well, that is problem #1, getting anyone to come out. I've been calling for someone to just haul for me and, no dice. The cheapest price for stone is a local place that does not deliver. Cash and carry. Anyway, what did you shell out for the roller? I love to buy one but any old beat to...

Straight liquid bleach, clorox (or equivalent) works great, if you can find a spray bottle to withstand the stuff. Assuming you can keep your cool and grab the spray bottle. Used to keep some nearby when I was younger and did work that would sometimes uncover the little buggers. They drop...

This is the Catskills area of NY. Ground is typical rocky cuss inspiring stuff. The road has been here for decades. What the "road base" is, is known only to the long ago departed. And they ain't talking. Over the last several decades, that has been covered with the stuff mentioned and...

Planning to add stone to drive/road. Over the years I have regraded after a storm and well as adding fresh from time to time. All those times it was just a matter of running the tractor back and forth countless times and "back dragging" the front bucket for a smooth(ish) finish. This time...

I've got a box. Used a couple already, seem fine. I'd like them better if the pin had a flat on one side.

It's the shipping that gets me. I'll just order some next time I need other parts.

Tried. A bit small.

Turns out Kubota has a part number for it 67156-34340. So, that settles that. Except, being as cheap as I am, I'll keep looking for substitutes.

Looking for small quantity source for what are known as "kickout rings" a version of the circular cotter ring or pin. OD is a hair or two under 2 inches. These are used to secure some pins on 3pt implements and I am bound to lose some one way or another. It is a lot easier to have spares on...

Yep. Only one I had that could fit in the hole. Still, not much force was applied.

Oh, I have a small stock of ORB type orings. I've gotten them from Summit and Discount when I've ordered other parts from them. The cap/plug itself is now so buggered up I don't want to use it. The hex (for an allan wrench) was rounded out by someone before me and is now filled with the...

Thanks. I may have got it loose with the torx, but not out, as the torx broke almost immediately. After moving the hoses out of the way, could get a better grip with the long nose vise grips. Be a couple of days before I get the parts. Odd someone would not have spend the 10 bucks or so...

Managed to get a torx in there after moving the cross over hoses away, but it broke immediately. Chinesium bit, hollow apparently. Odd. Finally got it out with a long nose vise grip after much coaxing. The seal is definitely blown out and is not a black oring but kind of yellow green, almost...

Space is pretty tight. Seems I will have to at least remove a hose, maybe pull the cylinder .

Escaped my notice earlier, but seems someone has been in there before. The hex is "hogged out" so the 3mm that fits the other similar plugs is too loose. 4mm does not fit. The paint around the rim of the plug is gone and has that tell tale look of a slipping vise grip. Suspect I see a hint...

The BH is detached. Resorted to the old standby of brake cleaner to degrease, compressed air to dry, and baby powder to show wetness. With the aid of a mirror (oddly enough I found one where it should have been) seems the wetness grows around the rim of the circular plug and eventually drips...

I can't tell what exactly is leaking, due to position and dirt. I can only tell drops form where the hose (actually steel pipe) joins the right angle fitting that goes into the cylinder. Most of the caked on stuff is scrapped off now, but, of course, it is now "dripped dry". Close as I could...

This fitting is attached to the side of the hydraulic cylinder where it transitions to the hose connection, Kubota part # 75590-13270. Same or similar fitting appears on all the Kubota cylinders I've seen. It, or the hose fitting, appears to be leaking. This one happens to be on one of the...

Developed a leak on Kubota BT751 back hoe, fits B21 TLB, to give an idea of size. BH is now detached. It is filthy with fresh fluid and caked on crud. Think I identified the leak, but considering a rebuild of cylinders and hose replacement. Some cylinders are weepy at the rod ends and some...

I've not read every response, but, there seem to be no votes for just using a backhoe. Assuming the machine has one, why not use that? Or did I miss where the OP says he does not have one?

Looking forward to the results. Bound to be more "real world" than any guess-timates I could make.

If you want me to run that test, might be a long wait. I don't do enough metal grinding to be able to run a "viable" test. I got this one, for my own evaluation. PFERD 4-1/2" CC-Grind -Solid 5/8-11 Thread - SG for Steel (61220): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

So far all I can say is it removes steel better/faster than anything I ever tried before. A light touch works fine. Cannot attest to how long it will wear, but from grinding down some "over welds" it seems to have held up pretty well. With other discs I could see wear at this point.

I've attached a zip file with the actual FreeCad file. The three parts, "slide", "pusher", "correcting" are all in the one file and a print file, usually an STL file (in my limited experience) can be produced for each one individually. It is a FCstd file specifically for FreeCad but may be...

I knew there must be an ulterior motive.

3D printing can be fun and very useful, but, it can also be a PITA to get parts right. Like learning any new technology. A bit like trying to "stick weld" by controlling a machine. Speed, temperature, material all factor in. And sometimes having to design your own parts, meaning "learn a...

Thanks. I'll see if anyone near by is willing to work with me that way. I did not find installing the gland seal that hard, once I got the fancy dancy tools to bend them. The piston seals get me pretty edgy, the stiff ones anyway. I fretted that for a while. Ended up 3D printing...

I could never bring myself to spring big bucks for one, so I got a "Colossal Tech Cut 50-D" on EBay some years back for under $200. Seems to work OK and consumables are readily available. Most of the cuts I make are 1/4 or thinner and need a lot of cleanup, even with a template/guide. But I...

I've not read through, but since I just got in and cleaned up from sanding down a "failed in a year" outdoor patio door (and ain't done yet) urethane job, here's my nickle. STAY AWAY from Minwax "Pro Series Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor". I used it on my deck hand rails and wood framed patio...

"these people"? For the sake of civility, I'll just leave it at that. Fact is, I have found after market seal kits offered online. Never for my machine it's true, but often for JD, Case, MF and like that. It makes sense for them to do that for higher volume units if you stop to think about...

Did you take the cylinder and ram or just the ram/piston/cap? The local shop said they just shipped them to a shop near Albany that specialized in cylinders rebuilds. Takes over a week normally. Figure they would not have any seals if they don't work on them there. So I bit the bullet and...

I have now!. May give them a try too. Happend to be in HF the other day and picked up a box each of the "Safety" Pins, square and arched. One of those might work, if not, I need 'em anyway. Yeah, just like everything I buy there and use once.

The spam problem should be fixable. Seems those users could be banned/blocked, sign up procedure tightened up and the existing spam delete. Need help, let me know.

It's welding related, cause, well, grinder. Anyway ordered a PFERD 4 1/2 threaded arbor disc to try out. Since I have never used either before, 2 Birds one disc. Threads on nicely and will give it a test soon, but, is that it? Just over hand tight an neither arbor adapter plate involved...

Jokes on me. Seems it is not in stock. Some sites say discontinued. Maybe I'll end up on a one by one hunt anyway.

Could be I went off prematurely. I found the invoice for the last seal kit I ordered and compared it to current price. it's a little over 10% increase, so, maybe I was wrong. Not having much success finding after market kits and searching out seals one by one with the cylinder on the bench...

Developed a small leak on BH stabilizer cylinder. Not bad, but makes a mess when parked and collects dirt. Then I went to order a seal kit, expecting the price to be close to when I looked last year. My word. Gracious me. Land sake, etc. It looks like the price has at least doubled, maybe...

Fooled me. Seems to only do it when it gets hot. Seems to be leaking from the very top at the union for supply pipe to injector. Removed the pipe and looks like there is a "flat" spot on the "cone" where it would seal on the injector. Since it's late Messicks will ship tomorrow, so I...

There are some really foul smelling concoctions sold by "natural" garden supply outfits made from rotten eggs and some other stuff that was pretty effective. Forget the name, but tried one once, years ago around the house on some ornamental plants they loved. Stank so bad had to keep the...

I doubt 2 ft will keep the deer out, but, gives me a potential use for those old steel sheds I need to tear down. Might be too thin for the job.

Food for thought. Gotta factor in some kind of robust fencing as well. Around here the deer and other critters can take a garden down to the roots overnight. They ain't shy at all. At this point I'll be planning for next year, looks like.

Lately have a need to change buckets on Kubota backhoe, swapping between a toothed and smooth bucket and a "root ripper" claw from Bxpanded. Which BTW makes root ripping almost fun. But I may be repeating myself. Attachment is via a conventional (?) nut and bolt though the pin hole. While...

After I collected my thoughts, rotated 360 and found the two valves at the "gear case" (radiator) end were "free" as were the other two that were called out to adjust. Another 360 and, amazingly, the remaining valves were free. Just as it was written up.

Raised beds might be best, but I have always been put off by wooden sides. Was wondering about putting some of these rocks and boulders to use in that way.

I had the same issue. Also, there was no reference mark that I could see, to line them up against. After some deliberation I chose the "third one" with as the WSM drawing seemed to show the first two as being 10 and 20 degrees BTDC. Did not seem to make much difference to the valve lash...

Only two per cylinder here and simple jam nuts. I don't have a trailer and the nearest dealer is some 40 miles away. I would not trust them to wash the machine let along service it. My last diesel valve adjustment was on a Peugeot 504 decades ago. How many decades, I don't recall. Or...

One of the problems was that the WSM graphic for the procedure seems to have confused me. I took the arrow pointing to "gear case" to mean the transmission, but the layout of the valve train seemed wrong. Took my aging brain, perhaps (more) addled by the heat, a couple "thinks" to realize it...

Giving it a try now. Figured I would find the "timing mark" first, but peering through the inspection window I do not see the mark the WSM calls out. No doubt I will figure it out, once I remove the valve cover anyway, but while doing it I was struck by how easy it is to turn the engine over...

Watching the video, that setup would be hitting and stalling against big fellers every few feet. Some of them are like icebergs only see the top 10%. Or worse don't see. Hoping by the time I clear out enough trees and roots most of those will be located.

Imagine the price of the Harley Rake is scary.

That probably makes more sense. I see several neighbors doing the raised bed thing, but kind a saw them as "city folk" doing the "hip" thing. That and I'm known to be a stubborn, so and so. I should content myself to ripping out as many trees and roots as seems sane, which will likely leave...

Might not be a good title or the right forum, but, got about between 1, 2 acres of treed land behind the house. Soild is VERY rocky with stones of all sizes, some pretty hefty. Trees of all sizes and varieties. The intent is to be able to put up an out building for work and storage and...

Thanks for the lead. Found the 800 hour item (now due) which even listed the page for the procedure. I must have been really tired that day.

Thanks. I am astonished at the cost of steel today. Priced out locally it came to about $1400 without the blades. OMG! as the kids might say. Might be done anyway, just for the exercise, so to speak.

Have to give some thought to the "best" way to make the blade height adjustable. Maybe just multiple holes for different depths. Some measurements I did not notice was the height of the side plates and the tail gate plate. Not that critical I suppose and could guestimate it, but figured I'd...

While running the B21 engine searching for an elusive fuel leak, thought there was some "valve clatter". While that may be normal, I went looking in the WSM for a procedure and maintenance interval. Did not find any. Perhaps I missed it. Any published spec and procedure?

Does not seem to be leaking at all now.

So, this guy, looking like he did in the pictures, in a truck with NO PLATES, aroused no suspicions at all in the seller/agent? I hear there's a guy in Brooklyn with a bridge for sale.

Pretty tired when first looking at it. Now not sure where it is actually leaking. I don't see any gaskets for the fuel "overflow" pipe (p/n 16261-42502). I'll give it a fresh look tomorrow.

Began noticing fuel smell. Wrote it off to having spilled some while filling last week. After working a few hours shut down and noticed some dripping, found a puddle of fuel at the injector closest to the cab. Cleaned up, started engine ran at 2500 and watched. Puddle began to form and could...

I can see the outlines pretty clearly. Some look like clean broken bolts others look maybe tack welded in the hole. Gonna soak everything in Kroil for a couple days, then try and get the bolted ones free. Maybe use a free tooth as a drill guide in some way.

Attached are the pictures I took, intending to attach to the first message.

Thanks for lots of suggestions and other idea. I'm just hitting 76, so some of them will not be practical for me. It's been a long while, for instance, since I split with a maul or wedge and sledge. But, it was fun back when. but these days, I need to be a lot more careful how I exert...

It is confusing. As others noted "compatible" could mean almost anything, like - "will mix without gelling up", "will not react explosively", "will not foam up and bubble out the vents" . . . to - "by the time you notice the HST does not work, we will be long gone". To me, a relative novice...

Got a spare bucket, a Kubota BT1953A. I was thinking using it as a smooth bucket, no teeth for occasional use. But, the two outer teeth are welded on, the rest are bolt on. Not that experienced but I've only every seen all bolted or all welded. It also appears the bot holes may have been...

Thanks, that cleared it up. Couple more things. The pin for the back door is weld on? On both sides? Guess it should be pretty substantial and could even be a bolt, threaded in, with head ground off. Or builders fancy I suppose. And the scraper blades and angle iron. The ones I've seen...

Should probably start another thread on this, but. In this picture the rear tailgate seems to have a forward tilt, at the bottom edge, while it looks like it should "free float" as you drive. Was this taken after going in reverse a bit? Also, there appear to be some "nubs" on the outer pipe...

Wow, thanks for the drawings. Are the cutting edges hidden under the gravel in the first posted picture? Where did you source the blades?

Build from plans for it or was eyeball engineering? I have a woods box blade but can see a land plane/leveler would be good thing to have.

I found this one also that uses no additional hydraulic components. Food for thought.

Don't know what a hydraulic log loader is, but will give it a search. Mean time, if you have some examples, it would help me get a clue.

Any sizing suggestions? I see this one, but is seems pretty low torque for the task: 0.76 cu in Dynamic BMM12.5FB1U Hydraulic Motor | Low Speed High Torque Hydraulic Motors | Hydraulic Motors | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Did you build that scraper/leveler?

Forgot to get back to this post. Went with "safeplast" in 1/2 and 3/4 inch ID. After some trial and error did it much as Peter described. Problem I had was I could not "push" the wrap down the hose at all, I had to "spiral" it on. Did not cut the first couple, but quickly found what a PITA...

Not intending to pull logs or trees, just cut 22 inch sections to split. But I see how it could be an issue with really wide/heavy pieces. Just trying to save my back/hip which is hollering at me lately. I could not start my Stihl 029 yesterday and had to use the 012. Then I quit for the...

Got a 20 Ton Troy Bilt log splitter, Honda engine, that runs well. Getting more painful to bend and lift and got a lot of wood to split as I clear a wooded area. While I can tilt the splitter to vertical was thinking to add a hydraulic winch to help drag/lift log sections. Most I have found...

Just a final (?) word. After using it for an hour or so, it became clear I cannot avoid making some kind of heat shield for the PB and Return to Tank hoses as they do get hot. I knew they would be an issue running so close to where my right arm usually is, but hoped I could avoid having to...

2006 B21, bought used. Getting around to addressing the funkiness of the FWD/REV (aka Speed control) pedal. According the the WSM pictures, the previous owner must have removed a part (after it broke?) and added a shade tree spring setup. It DOES work, but not "great" as it sometimes does...

When I said I replaced the switch, I meant put back the old one after checking it. The ignition switch was kind of "loose" on the key and had interesting corrosion on the connector rivets. On Ebay I found the "PTO" switch, ignition switch and relays. Ordered one of each and replaced the...

Like this? https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/fast-wrap-hook-look-sleeving.html Or this...

Any ideas on adding spiral plastic hose guard without removing at least one end of a hose? I did a few yesterday, before the rain, and it is quite tedious, but it is good for an arm (and patience) workout. Not that it's so easy even with an end free.+ I did not expect the wrap for a few more...

Yeah, they're nice. Only females came with the kit from Kubota. I had to find the male couplers.Kubota had them all female on the cylinders and males on the bulkhead. But I figured as befuddled as I could get, with one male and one female on each cylinder hose, I'd have less chance of...

Here's a few. 1 - Return to Tank T at FEL. ORB into FEL. JIC straight is original Tank Return, Right Angle JIC is return from valve. 2 - T to allow future return to Tank for thumb conversion. Upper line is from new valve, lower to FEL T 3 - Top and side link cylinders and hoses 4 - Bulkhead...

Phone battery is low and it's raining. Soon though.

Well, finally got the deal done, taking a lot longer than hoped. Partly due to indecisiveness and learning about hydraulic fittings and such. But, the quick connects fit, the valves work smoothly, the cylinders operate properly and fit, nothing leaks. Even found a "sorta easy" way to patch...

I've been on the hunt for Ridgid 377. I see lots of lookalikes on Amazon. Think they are any good? Some say stainless needs to be annealed before flaring or it will probably split. Is this wise and how would one go about doing that?

Trying to finish up a top n tilt. I got the basic kit, links/cylinders from Kubota (actually woods/gannon) along with some fittings, quick connects and 4 hoses for the cylinders. The rest, spool valve, mount, etc, I've had to "make it up as I went along". The Kubota kit came with...

Off hand any of you know if those type fittings work only with steel and stainless, or with the cupro-nickle work well also? It's claimed to be able to withstand the pressure (2100 psi) but it being softer concerns me.

OK. I'm more concerned about making good leak free pipes and having them stay that way. Since there seem to be several makers of this type of thing, I guess they've been proven in use, or you guys would not be suggesting them.

You may be right. I was brought up to scorn "compression fittings", so I have a skeptical view of using them at high pressures. That said, I've seen OEM's Kubota among them, offer add on kits that use Swagelock, so, I guess they do the job. Added: I'm guessing this is the "High Pressure Cone...

Thinking of making up steel hydraulic lines with JIC ends, if not now, down the line. I know the basics of flaring, having done many automotive brake lines and copper fuel oil lines but some questions I cannot find answers to. For instance, with hoses with JIC ends, one can have, say a 3/8...

It's very likely a scam. FB is full of fake and scam ads the are looking for a quick score on someone gullible, or maybe leads on where to look for equipment to steal. Most of them follow a similar script. Just lost a close relative or friend, "in the Military and just got deployed", or...

Yep, that was pretty much what I found. Thanks for the effort. I don't really mind buying one, but I know I had one. Soon as I do, the guy is gonna call and say he found it. Meter is not a problem. Got lots of them. Finding where to measure what is the issue. Was hoping to avoid wire...

Where did I support any of those "alternative" economic schemes? Never. That you mention them and extol "capitalism" tells me your opinions are base more on ingrained Political views than other considerations, especially when you enumerated your "talking points". 1 - That may true to some...

When all the Oil Companies, without "colluding" of course, keep their prices outrageous, where ya gonna buy fuel? When Tyson, Perdue and the other frozen food makes are lock step in price rises, where are, city people mostly, gonna buy? When Drug manufacturers, like for insulin and other...

I need to get my machines under cover. Plans for garages, pole barns and the like face many obstacles. So, I was thinking, for now, of a "car port" deal, even if open on all sides, This is made more attractive by the fact the town does not require permits for "detached" buildings of under 144...

Yes I do. Used it a lot. One day, I got a call from my eldest son's school (middle grade) that my son had been caught in school with "a gun" and they were calling the Police. Turns it it was the bright orange zip tie gun that he took, without asking, to show his friends. Some little flower...

They have stuff online, or in stock 50 miles from me. I found a used assembly on ebay for 18. Worth a try.

I just know it as a "Garden Tractor" of the "240, 245, 260, 265, 285 & 320 Lawn and Garden Tractor" variety. It has the Kawasaki FC420v, gear trans, and a now iffy electric clutch (aka "PTO"?). Tag says 240 -TRACTOR-46 EDIT 1988 according to serial number. I used to have the full service...