Chain sharpening

   / Chain sharpening #41  
I mark the top of a tooth with magic marker so I know when I've done all the teeth.
That's what I do. I keep a black Sharpie marker to color the top plate of the first tooth I'm going to sharpen. (one of my saws has an odd number of teeth - so I just start where I have two teeth in a row n the same side of the bar.)
 
   / Chain sharpening #43  
IMG_2662.jpg

60506963852__5B5CAF0A-238D-435C-A011-FB15C825598E.jpg

60506962861__955328FA-EA87-4A8C-8653-CD3C9955E0E3.jpg

IMG_2699.jpg

One square grinder, one round grinder and a raker/depth gauge grinder. There’s a huge difference in having a consistent chain when you’re falling timber all the time you need predictability.
 
   / Chain sharpening #44  
Ours got so much oil on them, markers doesn't cut it. Most of our chains don't have different attachment/special link either. I've learned to simply watch for freshly sharpened teeth to come around. :unsure:
 
   / Chain sharpening #45  
I have 3 chainsaws that I rotate as I have a lot of tree and subsequent cleanup. After each use I clean using compressed air, then tighten chainsaw, and then sharpen. Before putting the chainsaw away I make sure the oil and 50:1 gas is full. I always use the pre-mixed gallon cans which are expensive but takes the guess work out.

I did learn that the bar itself should be greased and there is a tool for that.
Oregon 26365 Chainsaw Grease Gun
There’s two schools of thought on that. I don’t grease mine, allowing the B&C oil to do the job and have never had a problem. If you do grease do it often as it will create a ring around the sprocket, which won’t allow oil to get to the sprocket.
Not cutting straight is usually from the rakers not matching. A good file guide can help prevent that.
 
   / Chain sharpening #46  
There’s two schools of thought on that. I don’t grease mine, allowing the B&C oil to do the job and have never had a problem. If you do grease do it often as it will create a ring around the sprocket, which won’t allow oil to get to the sprocket. Not cutting straight is usually from the rakers not matching. A good file guide can help prevent that.
Not cutting straight is usually from grinding/sharpening one side of your chisel teeth, more than the other. The left and right teeth need to be the same for a good cut.

None of my bars have a grease hole for the tip sprocket. Never had that bearing fail either. I replace about one bar per summer for being bent or simply wore out.. We rarely run out of bar oil but it sure sounds funny when you do! . Ya, we're hard on them.
 
   / Chain sharpening #47  
Ours got so much oil on them, markers doesn't cut it
I just wipe the top plate with my finger, then draw with the marker. It's not a permanent mark, but it easily lasts through the sharpening process. If I had a grease pencil with me, I'd use that, but for some reason, tey tend to disappear on me far more frequently than Sharpie markers.
 
   / Chain sharpening #48  
Not cutting straight is usually from grinding/sharpening one side of your chisel teeth, more than the other. The left and right teeth need to be the same for a good cut.

None of my bars have a grease hole for the tip sprocket. Never had that bearing fail either. I replace about one bar per summer for being bent or simply wore out.. We rarely run out of bar oil but it sure sounds funny when you do! . Ya, we're hard on them.

I’ve had the most crooked cut problems aside from the obvious damaged chain from a worn bar. Once it starts happening I take it off and grind it on my strip sander and that fixes the problem.
 
   / Chain sharpening #51  
I’ve had the most crooked cut problems aside from the obvious damaged chain from a worn bar. Once it starts happening I take it off and grind it on my strip sander and that fixes the problem.
This might be a stupid qestion, but what are you grinding off??
 
   / Chain sharpening #52  
ther are burs or raised edges on a worn bar that need to be filed - flat sides of bars is what i do.. they have a tool i have seen for truing up a bar - never bought one though.
 
   / Chain sharpening #53  
ther are burs or raised edges on a worn bar that need to be filed - flat sides of bars is what i do.. they have a tool i have seen for truing up a bar - never bought one though.
Gee, takes two minutes to knock those bar burrs off. Been there, done that, but these will make your cut not straight?
 
Last edited:
   / Chain sharpening #54  
i think the cutters that are sharpened wrong or differently than the others will do that. if i nderstood you correctly.
 
   / Chain sharpening #55  
Gee, takes two minutes to knock those bar burrs off. Been there, done that, but these will make your cut not straight?

i think the cutters that are sharpened wrong or differently than the others will do that. if i nderstood you correctly.

Both can cause a cut to be off.
 
   / Chain sharpening #56  
This might be a stupid qestion, but what are you grinding off??

Burrs on the bar and given enough use they get tracks worn in them and need flattened back out.
 
   / Chain sharpening #57  
I use round files in the field. Oregon grinder when I hit something.
 
   / Chain sharpening
  • Thread Starter
#58  
I tried special Stihl file. Continue to use the Dremel with round stones. Bought a new set of 3. Got at Lowes.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

YANMAR VIO35-6A EXCAVATOR (A59823)
YANMAR VIO35-6A...
1996 Dorsey Enclosed Trailer, VIN # 1DTV11520TA252324 (A57453)
1996 Dorsey...
M998 (A55852)
M998 (A55852)
Kuhns AE10 Small Square Bale Accumulator - 10-Bale Efficient Handling System (A56438)
Kuhns AE10 Small...
2018 KOMATSU WA200-8 WHEEL LOADER (A60429)
2018 KOMATSU...
CAT D6T LGP DOZER (A58214)
CAT D6T LGP DOZER...
 
Top