After years of hand filing, went and bought myself an Oregon chain grinder

[5030]

Interesting. I too own an 090 as well as an 075 but both are too big for my use so they sit with no fuel (dried up) in the shop. I should probably sell them both but in as much as I bought them new, I have trouble parting with them. My big use saw is my 45 year old Stihl 028 AV. All alloy except for the top shroud. Not like the new ones that have a ton of plastic on them.

 

[oldtimer 66]

I got a Oregon chain sharpener a couple of years ago. The base model like 5030 has. I purchase a CBN wheel last year. It seems to be more consistent than the pink factory wheels. You may want to try that. Below are some of the positives of a CBN wheel.

• Sharpens 1000’s of chains
• Preshaped and hold their shape, have an aluminum core to run cooler, create virtually no dust
• Perfect for both the professional chain sharpener and the weekend sharpener
• 5.75" diameter (D) with a 7/8" arbor hole (H), 3/16" thick (T) for 3/8 and .404 pitch chains
• Fit the Oregon 511A, Maxx, Tecomec, Northern, Timber Tuff, Carlton, Speed Sharp, and other equivalent machines

 

[2manyrocks]

And I thought I was the big spender when I bought a Pferd 2 in 1 sharpener recently. https://www.amazon.com/Pferd-17300-...fix=2+in+1+chain+grinder+pfred,aps,106&sr=8-4

 

[5030]

I got a Oregon chain sharpener a couple of years ago. The base model like 5030 has. I purchase a CBN wheel last year. It seems to be more consistent than the pink factory wheels. You may want to try that. Below are some of the positives of a CBN wheel.

• Sharpens 1000’s of chains
• Preshaped and hold their shape, have an aluminum core to run cooler, create virtually no dust
• Perfect for both the professional chain sharpener and the weekend sharpener
• 5.75" diameter (D) with a 7/8" arbor hole (H), 3/16" thick (T) for 3/8 and .404 pitch chains
• Fit the Oregon 511A, Maxx, Tecomec, Northern, Timber Tuff, Carlton, Speed Sharp, and other equivalent machines

Per chance could you tell me where you purchased it? You can do it via PM if you want to...

I got a Oregon chain sharpener a couple of years ago. The base model like 5030 has. I purchase a CBN wheel last year. It seems to be more consistent than the pink factory wheels. You may want to try that. Below are some of the positives of a CBN wheel.

• Sharpens 1000’s of chains
• Preshaped and hold their shape, have an aluminum core to run cooler, create virtually no dust
• Perfect for both the professional chain sharpener and the weekend sharpener
• 5.75" diameter (D) with a 7/8" arbor hole (H), 3/16" thick (T) for 3/8 and .404 pitch chains
• Fit the Oregon 511A, Maxx, Tecomec, Northern, Timber Tuff, Carlton, Speed Sharp, and other equivalent machines

Per chance could you tell me where you purchased it at? You can PM me if you want... Thanks

 

[xyz123]

Snobdds = There was a round grinder silvey for sale over in the chainsaw group on FB. $300.
Thats what I wanted years back for round grinder but settled on my stihl USG. Couldnt find one for decent price like above.
But being I am getting out of this stuff no need for another round. Already sold the square for 550 with new silvey stand. Older silvey that was rebuilt.

 

[gstrom99]

Nothing against hand filing at all other than it's time consuming and dull cutters really take time to get sharp. I have a Timberline clamp on the bar tooth sharpener as well (that I'm giving away now). The Oregon grinder isn't a cheap date ($209.00 on Amazon with free delivery) but it very consistently sharpens each tooth plus you can set the rakers with it. Comes with 3 grinding wheels (also available on Amazon or from Oregon direct or your local chainsaw shop), a dressing stone (to maintain the correct radius on the wheels) as well as a radius gage and raker gage and the correct Allen wrenches for changing the wheels.

Oregon offers 2 models, the one I bought with the manual clamping vise and a more expensive one with a hydraulic vise (that I don't need). The aluminum castings are very nice and well machined and powder coated. Overall fit and finish is top shelf too.

Initial set up takes some time as all the grinding angles are adjustable but once it's set up, all you need to do is dial in the appropriate angles and change the wheels for various chain pitches. It sharpens all pitches, from 1/4 low profile chipper to 404 skip tooth. Of course it won't sharpen square tooth chipper, that is always a hand file chain.

No matter how good you are at hand filing, consistent tooth sharpening is always an issue. With the Oregon, every tooth is ground equally and setting the rakers is simply a matter of changing wheels.

I agonized over buying one for a long time but I finally sprung for one. Glad I did.

I bought one (Oregon 410) this year too. Set up was a bit intimidating, rakers grinding is a bit weird too, but I like it. Haven't used the sharpened ones yet though, to see how good I/it did.

 

[5030]

Think I posted that I ordered a CBN wheel for the 325 pitch but I'll use the conventional wheel for the 1/4" low pro chain of which I only have one (the Echo CS) saw. According to what I've been able to ascertain, the CBN wheels never need radius dressing, don't heat the tooth when grinding and last for hundreds of sharpenings. Not cheap at just north of 100 bucks a wheel but the conventional wheels are around 20 bucks each so the CBN wheels, while they cost more (if the last that long) are a good investment. I'll be finding out.

The other thing is, the CBN wheels are a much finer grit and impart a nicer finish on the teeth. I'll still use a dressed conventional wheel to set the rakers, not that I cut the rakers every time because I don't Maybe every 3rd sharpening.

I agree, the set up is a bit intimidating but once you get the 'hang' of how they work, they certainly beat hand filing, hands down. I just gave away my Timberline carbide burr sharpener to a friend. No more in the field sharpening for me. I'll just take an extra sharp loop along and I always have at least one spare loop (and usually more) for each saw.

IMO, it's a well made grinder for the money and very adjustable. Of course it won't sharpen square tooth chipper chain of which I also have. Square tooth has to be hand filed no matter what.

 

[2manyrocks]

At this rate, the sharpener starts to close in on the price of the $350 arborist saw.

 

[5030]

A properly sharpened chain versus a dull one makes even a marginal powered saw cut like a banshee. Dull chains eat power and cut poorly. I gage the sharpness by how much debris gather on the top side of a tooth. Once I start to see that buildup, it's time to dress the chain.

One of my buddies bought a roll of saw chain that has plated teeth that are copper in color and they really go a long time between dressings. I don't believe it's Oregon chain but I need to ask.

 

[Ortimber]

Think I posted that I ordered a CBN wheel for the 325 pitch but I'll use the conventional wheel for the 1/4" low pro chain of which I only have one (the Echo CS) saw. According to what I've been able to ascertain, the CBN wheels never need radius dressing, don't heat the tooth when grinding and last for hundreds of sharpenings. Not cheap at just north of 100 bucks a wheel but the conventional wheels are around 20 bucks each so the CBN wheels, while they cost more (if the last that long) are a good investment. I'll be finding out.

The other thing is, the CBN wheels are a much finer grit and impart a nicer finish on the teeth. I'll still use a dressed conventional wheel to set the rakers, not that I cut the rakers every time because I don't Maybe every 3rd sharpening.

I agree, the set up is a bit intimidating but once you get the 'hang' of how they work, they certainly beat hand filing, hands down. I just gave away my Timberline carbide burr sharpener to a friend. No more in the field sharpening for me. I'll just take an extra sharp loop along and I always have at least one spare loop (and usually more) for each saw.

IMO, it's a well made grinder for the money and very adjustable. Of course it won't sharpen square tooth chipper chain of which I also have. Square tooth has to be hand filed no matter what.

This is how to grind square tooth chains: