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I got the Sunbelt aftermarket sub mentioned earlier. Link below - the Amazon vendor cancelled the order/couldn't get. Sunbelt B1XT0409 The install was very easy and it appears the assembly was properly set up from the factory - the spring tension works fine. I will say, this is the strongest...

Thanks for the info. I did some digging on the TLB models. It does not appear there is a cab model in any of the 3 sizes. That pretty much exnays these for us.

This is good info. I have experience in the ag equipment industry from some years back also and am very familiar with what you are describing in that the backhoes "aren't normal attachments". I do believe you have to completely remove the 3pts to get the sub frame you speak of to mount. That...

That looks like an open station machine? We're interested in the cab machines. As to the latter comment on tractor weight and size - right. Thats the issue with our tillage. I dont need to go huge though, just enough to get good power to the ground is all with what we have.

Hi. We're looking at tractor options and I'm curious if anyone knows if a backhoe attachment is available for the M4? We ended up with an International 444 loader tractor earlier (42hp machine, 2wd), however at the time we were considering an LX3520HSDC. After running the 444 it is apparent we...

Windings desintegrated. Id say its toast and Ill need the new assembly.

Thanks for the notes. A couple more tidbits - the clutch quit mid-cut. I mowed about 1.5 out of 2 acres and the blades shut off. I reset the PTO switch and the clutch engaged for about 10 more seconds, then quit and has never come back. Of the checks mentioned - I have not checked resistance...

Looks like the assemby I need is AM123123. There is a substitution from Sunbelt that appears to be a drop-in replacement. Any thoughts from anyone on this one? Way cheaper than the Deere. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CLMXTPM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2OU1IURQ94CMB&psc=1

Thanks for the links. It appears there are a few options for the clutches. Mine is closer to the ST552674. But its not available. Any ideas?

All, Is there an online parts look up that I might be able to search for parts on for a 185 hydro? I believe it is a 1987 model. The electric PTO clutch is out. I've done some initial diagnostics and have narrowed it down to the clutch. I have not removed it, so it is conceivable there is a...

Thanks for the heads up. That probably explains my trouble, then. I went to 3 stores and only one clerk (at an autoparts store) had even remotely heard of what I was asking about. That said, it does not appear you can get it off-the-shelf. Though, we have a NAPA regional distribution center...

Hmm. I've never heard of it. Thanks for the suggestion. At this point I'm willing to try just about anything.

Still slow going. I got to working on the gasket removal again last night. This is probably the worst job I've done on the tractor yet. Getting the lift housing to separate from the transmission/rear end housing was probably right up there but I think this surpasses it for 2 reasons: 1. It is...

Though still a PITA, these scrapers got the job done for the most part. I can't fit the angle grinder up in there to do the same polycarbide disk treatment I did everywhere else. So it will have to be the dremel. I ordered some similar abrasive wheels with a 1/8" shank to use. That will be a...

As to the chickens - yep. We have the critter problem out here. I am working towards thinning that down, as with everything - in time. I got a cheap creeper to work under the engine block. That seems to be just what I need. Now the next problem - how to get in and remove the old gasket...

Quick update - The 90deg fitting came in Saturday. We had a packed weekend with other things, however I got the fitting on late Sunday. I just used the existing pipe for now. I didn't put a ton of torque on the coupler at the 90deg fitting, but it threaded on there just fine. I think I'll get...

I called the dealer and discussed the scenario. The guy I talked to did some digging and, although the PN for the pipe is retired/obsolete, he found one somewhere else in the country. Last we left it was he was going to investigate it to see if it actually exists and if where it is would be...

So my update from the weekend - I think it was Thursday now - I got the suction filter assembly in. I used a dremel tool with a grinding disk to trim down the groove diameter. I think I went a bit far in some places by about .010" on the diameter (.005" off the radius). I am not sure if this...

The PVC and tapping method may possibly work. However, I didn't get the sense that the O-ring would sit very far down in the port in the lift housing - maybe 1/16-3/32" before the filter housing flange would seat against the lift housing. For as much pressure as I was getting on it (and I did...

This week's progress so far - the remote valve and lines are back together. I am working on the suction filter and line now. The new filter is a single unit with the suction tube. The way the filter housing seals is with an O-ring. There is no screw pressure, just an O-ring slipped in to the...

I got the lift housing back in place. So that wraps up all the "hard" work on this end of the work - dealing with the transmission issues (resolved now). The next end of the work, once everything is back together with the hydraulics etc, is the engine. I'm hoping to get to that next week in to...

I had to modify my rigging technique on the cover. The wire slings were in the way of the sealant and gasket - I didn't want to mess any of that up during the process. So I used a pair of vice grips to rig off of the shifter. Not pretty, but it worked great. I sealed the casting + gasket side...

I have some ideas on putting in a 4 post mobile gantry crane in the shop at some point. We use them at work every day and they make the work we do possible, and what we can do without they make a lot easier (and save our backs). That said, this is how I have the trans cover rigged at the...

So a quick update - I am combining a couple ideas on the transmission top positioning. I wrenched my back messing with it Sunday trying to armstrong it in to place. With all the on/off and then breaking the sealant at the end it was a lot of work - and I'm paying for it. With the thought of...

I use an ATV winch with various rigging - shackles, snatch blocks, straps, etc. It has done a ton of work over the years. I got a superwinch with synthetic line, 4500lb rated winch. No frayed steel cable to shred hands with. We do need an engine hoist at some point. I have a 6.7L powerstroke...

Thanks - and not the complement on the work, rather for the new skill. That is a big part of working on my own stuff for me - learning and growing. I've never made gaskets like this before and for all the projects I've done over the years - and will continue to do - it has already been a worthy...

Here are some pictures of what we did do so far. This is a contrast between the non-prepped transmission housing and the prepped rear end housing. I used a polycarbonate disk from Harbor Freight. I've used these disks for surface prep prior to painting before and have had good results. It...

Well the gasket making process took a bit to figure out. We started on the larger rear end housing and had to re-do it. The ring gear sticking up screwed up the stretching over of the gasket material. We tried to walk it around and fold the gasket material back over the ring gear once we got the...

It looks like the housing gaskets are .012-.014". It appears Karropak comes in a .015"/1/64" thickness so that looks to be close enough. I found an 18"x30ft roll on Ebay for $35 and free shipping. Id say that is a good deal - stock for other projects too.

We go to the flea market place near Hocking Hills off rt 33 every once in a while. There are a couple of the store vendors (you rent space in there to show items then they take a percentage) that sell tools. Ill have to look in to some things there next time we go. Though, I need the hammers...

Can you detail your hammers a bit more? I am looking at this autobody repair set that has a pointed hammer also. Is that adequate for the holes? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRM4K7MG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2O92O0ZNQT88Z&psc=1 What have you found to be the most useful? What really...

Here are some pictures of the shifter assembly. There is some rust visible. However, the gunk between the sliders should be self-explanatory on the "hang up" issue.

With the tractor chassis mobile now I could get the lift housing up and the chassis out from under it. After I moved the tractor chassis out from under the lift housing I set the lift housing back down on the ground - where it will sit for a long while. I need to order some gasket material...

This is the rigging plate and rigging I set up with it to move the tractor. There is a 2" ratchet strap going under the door to a vehicle in the drive as an anchor for the front. I am thinking of putting a rigging plate up there, also, but I am not sure I want that "obstruction" in the way of...

Another weekend update - the shifter is freed up, mostly. The issue was 2 parts. The 1st part was gunk clogging the slot between the sliders. That prevented the initial side to side movement in the shifter. However, after disassembling the whole assembly it was apparent the larger pin was...

Just a quick update so far this weekend: I got the rigging plate fabricated and bolted to the shop floor. It works fantastic. With the rigging plate in place I was able to get to work today on the tractor work that I've been needing to get to - splitting the lift housing from the chassis...

Good idea on the pto shaft to move the tractor. Ill have to keep that in mind. The rigging plate, though, will help us drag everything else in to the shop - equipment and vehicles. So it has a larger purpose than this one project/situation.

I finally got the housing separated Sunday. I took as much weight on the hoist as I could with the rear tires barely on the ground so the machine wasn't swinging when I pushed on it, then kept hammering with the rotary hammer/chisel. I moved to the other corner - right side - and got the...

I don't have any direct suggestions on the hydraulic plumbing relating to your specific issue, however I would highly recommend getting 3 types of manuals for your tractor - operators manual, shop/service manual, and parts manual/catalog. You can find them on Ebay as reprints for a decent price...

The bolts are all completely unthreadded. I have them sitting in the holes to keep track of them - so they arent floating around somewhere else. As to the putty knife - I can try that. I did try a rotary hammer with a chisel (hammer only mode) for a while last night, also, with enough hoist...

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the lift housing separated from the rear end/transmission housing? My hoist is moving the whole tractor so I know I have an enormous amount of force on this thing. I tried all the hoist pressure with beating a pry bar between the two at the same time but...

1/8" collet. It doesn't look like the 2" roloc's will work. Though I do have a die grinder, I don't have shop air right now. We need a good shop air compressor. I was using an old Campbell-Housfeld 20gal 110v compressor (125psi) but found the tank was rusty beyond what I was comfortable...

The auxiliary/remote valve attaching to the side of the lift housing would be "containing pressure" I do believe. Unless that connection is the drain/return to the tank only.

Excellent info. I didn't quote the whole thing, but there is a wealth of info there. Do you have any thoughts on the gasket materials - what to use/what to stay away from? Or are they all comparable?

There are 2 more PN's I'm looking for - gaskets. The first I believe is the gasket between the transmission case/rear end and the lift housing. The parts book doesn't show the lift housing above so I am guessing that is for a variant of models/options that mine is not, but the main...

Reading through the service manual - there isn't a specific description for the 444, though they do call out the 504 and 2504 series that appears to be similar, tough I don't believe exact. With the hydraulic lines undone, what needs to be (non-flexible lines), and the remote/aux valve out of...

I finally got around to more work on the old machine this evening. I got the remote valve off the side of the lift housing and had access to all the housing bolts While I was working on it I noticed another access cover/top plate under the seat. Is there anything special in there that has to...

If I can get the housing raised about 2" and set on blocks I may not need to remove the housing away from the area. I think that will give me enough room to work the last bolt out of the trans top cover. We'll see. If that would work I wouldnt have to disconnect the 3pt lift arms.

Well some bad news, but not a total killer - you are correct. According to the service manual IH-201 page 57 paragraph 148A - it describes removing the [transmission] "top cover and hydraulic lift housing" in that the latter has to be removed for access to the former - just as you thought...

The specific question was engine oil - gas engine (c153). More broadly - hydraulic oil also.

What thoughts does everyone have on the aftermarket oil filters - like fleetguard or others? Looks like some on Ebay are under $20, fleetguards $20-30. The OEM is $92 and change at the dealer.

I was able to work the rear of the 2 rubber hoses loose with channel lock pliers. I got a bite on it on one side and worked it back and forth until it broke free, then went to the other side and did the same thing. No need for any extra lube - the bit of oil still in the line was plenty of lube...

Based on your descriptions I think I have a solid idea what you are referring to. I am fighting with the rubber hoses on that pipe. Part of the work I am doing (that I held off on until I got the tractor down like this) is to open up the transmission and see about loosening the gear shift...

Interesting question. I dont really have a "process". When I got the rear blade operational all the times I got the tractor running in all that (early January - first 2 weeks) time I just used full choke and some throttle - about 1/3 maybe - and let it crank. It would pop in a sequence of...

I am trying to find a replacement oil pan gasket. The CNH store online doesn't list it and I can't find it on Ebay, either. The PN should be 43458D8. Any ideas on that one? I also did a more generic search for an "oil pan gasket c-153 engine" with no luck. Juts a lot of unrelated nonsense on...

As to the suction filter - the diagram I have in the ops manual isn't very clear on the exact locations of what filters. That said, I pulled one of them that looked to be about 2 to 2-1/2" long and about 5/16" diameter and cleaned it off a bit. It just had some goo on it, no debris. I can't...

I don't have a whole lot in the way of updates yet. I pulled the starter and valve cover between Wednesday and Thursday. That didn't lead anywhere, other than to eliminate some question. I am still concerned there is more wrong, however not having found any metal bits anywhere gives me more...

Thanks for all the info. Continuing with the diagnosing here - I got the oil pan off. It appears there are no "metal bits" in the oil pan, either. Just some sludge and metal shavings like the pan under the transmission. That is a good sign. Though, there could still be any number of problems...

No worries on the long reply. All very good information and I appreciate it. I won't quote everything in detail, however here are some points to relate back to what you said: Yes, there was a lot of suspended water in the oil. I sifted through all of the hydraulic oil last night. See pictures...

Now the bad news. When it got cold and we had the snow the tractor was very difficult to start. I would crank it for a good while and once it would fire it would take a few more seconds of cranking to spool up then it would ramp up to rpm. The last time we had it "running" was a bit over 2...

I just realized I didn't post any on the disk. Its an 8' wide disk, also an International apparently from the seller. I am not sure what model. We used this to knock down the plowed garden plot last fall and will continue to use it for spring tillage and maintenance tillage depending on what we...

Its been a while since I've posted on here. We've been busy. We got a rear blade at the same time as a disk back in November that was bent up pretty good. With the 2 implements we got a pretty good deal on them. Since the bones on the blade were workable (still a good blade, functional pivot...

We got the disk and ran it yesterday before the sun went down. Since we were running over already worked ground (plowed, see 1st picture) the disk was able to work pretty quick. With as messed up as the ground was, though, it took several passes - maybe 4-5 - to get it where it is now...

Central ohio. We need to work the ground to break up vegetation. It is old, overgrown pasture. Our plan is to get the vegetation mixed in better, then soil sample. Then once we have recommendations for ammendmentsn- start adding and mix in with the disk as needed, with a pass before planting...

The ground we are needing disked was plowed around a month ago, and ripped prior to that. So this isnt a "break new ground" endeavour, just maintenance tillage. We are anticipating needing to add weight, regardless, though. As to how that will do on new ground - not real sure, but we will...

We had a lead on a 12ft drawn with hydraulic lift wheels for $400 a while back, it sold. This one is more than double the price and 3pt, not drawn. Just trying to weigh the math. New is $3000-ish.

All, This disk is available (as of right now) within a somewhat reasonable distance. See linked thread for more background detail. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/disk-discussion-what-is-adequate-what-is-too-much.505140/ In short, 42hp International 444 2wd gas. At 5hp/ft - 8' of...

Thinking through this - If I narrow up the tractor that is going to be a significant help all around the farm, not just in plowing. And depending on how narrow I can get it - I might even be able to get it on my trailer. Do you have any thoughts on how to track down a 2 piece wheel set? The...

The current plot is 40x136'. Yes, more ground will be opened up as we go. This first plot is 1/8 acre to get going for 2025. Next year we can plan better. Crops - vegetables, squash/pumpkins, wheat, sweet corn, and flowers Im sure. A mix of a lot of things.

Thanks for the info so far. According to the write-up on disks in the above links it appears the 5hp per foot metric is the guide. Based on that - 8' would be on the high end. And 5hp/ft appears to be mfwd/4wd. From the poster's pictures - he is using a utility tractor with R4 tires, not R1...

We're getting going on our first acreage. I won't re-hash everything here, see following link for some info on the process of getting our tractor going. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/international-444-1968-progress-thread-getting-going.478847/ The tractor is a 1968 International...

We got a 2 bottom dearborn plow. Over the ripped ground it was a bit tough to get the plow to turn the ground over, it liked to catch the "sod" on top and clog with the carpet patches. That aside, when I came out of the field after running the plow the most (didnt finish, got too dark so I...

I played with the levers a bit. As I was thinking - I did have the levers positioned, as I can tell, "normally" in the position the 3pt would go the lowest it could. That said, I bent the levers and guard/guide plate a bit so I could get the pin on the round knob lever to go up and over the...

I will check this afternoon. I thought I played with all the levers/stops on the 3pt and that was as low as I could get it to go. It also looks to me like the hole positions for the links are in the lowest settings. I'll dig in to it here today and see what I come up with. Its hooked to the...

I thought I updated this thread here but it appears I didn't. In any event, I got the ripping done. The lowest I could get it was about a foot. That was as low as the 3pt would drop. I am suspecting the size of the tractor has a lot to do with that - it is a bigger machine for that type/size of...

So a new conundrum of sorts - I think... With the brush hog this wasnt a huge issue, but was noticeable - the 3pt draft arms swing freely side to side. There is a retaining "chain" on each one to prevent either from swinging out too far. However, I have not figured out how to tighten things up...

I am hoping to get the garden area at least measured and staked to mark it tonight. I have a single tine ripper to break the compaction/pull up some roots. What you say about the weed seeds is something Ive been concerned with ever since we started looking at this property. I presume that will...

And cutting the trail:

Heres a quick video of it running, not doing anything but running. And some pictures of what it's been up to the past 3 days now. This is the area we're opening up for planting next spring. They uploaded backwards. It may get expanded more - I want a 1/4 acre so I'll measure and lay out what...

I spent another couple hours in the field this evening. The tractor ran perfect the whole time. I was ready to diagnose at a moments notice but had no need to. I suppose that is good, but it doesnt bring any conclusion to the conundrum yesterday yet. On a side note - even at 42hp with our 5.5'...

More stewing on the engine quitting issue - With the cracked manifold - is it possible the temperature of running heavy is expanding the cracks causing more leakage - both exhaust and intake (I'm pretty sure all 8 ports, 4 intake/4 exhaust, are cracked)? I could see where an expanded crack on...

Another issue I did see coming is exhaust fumes as the manifold is cracked. I have some high-temp JB Weld to try to seal this with before I run it next time. However, that only solves one issue. With the exhaust exiting under the tractor it isn't getting up and away - especially going...

Update from this evening's work. I ran for around 2 hours with the brush hog. The latter 45 minutes or so the muffler fell off. This tractor has the low exhaust under the machine, not a stack sticking up. When the muffler fell off I immediately noticed and stopped brush hogging. I worked...

2 stage clutch. So far I like it. I dont have any complaints about it. I am going to be doing a lot of reverse brush hogging starting this evening so maybe my opinion on it will change. We'll see. I will say, though, that low range 1st gear is too fast to brush hog here for a good bit of the...

We got the tractor running - finally. When I had it "running" the other day apparently the distributor rotor - brand new with the rebuild I did - disintegrated. A buddy of mine came over with a timing light and some other gizmos to help out and we went tracing things and poking around. He...

The 2v was at the input to the ignition coil. The "hot start" 12v power, normally, comes as passed through the starter solenoid. Before I started working on anything I photo documented everything for future reference/to see how it was "together". The wire going to the ignition coil terminated...

Thanks for the link. We went to O'Reiley this evening and got a couple to try. One has 2 terminals, the other has 4. I was thinking maybe the 4 terminal one would have different resistance values. However, it looks like the pairs are individual and dont connect. I can check with my multimeter...

After some quick voltage checks I found the tap on the start solenoid for the ignition power (where both the 12v start/hot start power and the low V line off the ballast resistor meet to go to the ignition coil) was bad. I didn't troubleshoot it beyond voltage, however I suspect it is grounding...

I got to new spark plugs in. Gap is right about .023" per service manual (plugs came out of the box pretty much right on). Still no fire. I went through each plug with my indicator light and I am getting the same dim glow on every plug. So I know I am getting some juice to them, but I still...

Yes. The timing marks dont appear on the fan belt pulley on the front of the crank shaft unless the #1 cylinder is up. If you are beyond about +/- 40deg from TDC on #1 the marks disappear. Progress last night - I set the firing order to 1 3, 4, 2 per the service manual and clocked the...

On this side there is nothing between the crank pulley and the fan pulley. I will have to look at the other side closer and see. Thanks for the suggestion.

Ive been delayed on my project with a lot of things. However, we are better situated now so I started digging in again. Where I left off was trying to get access to the belt pulley to get to the timing marks. That required hoisting the loader frame, removing a cylinder, and removing the rest of...

Here is a random example of a brush hog that has more "structure" to it. Note the blue line. The bracing here covers the whole length of the deck. Note the red box. This raised section where the gearbox sits is a reinforced structure, integrated with the bracing mentioned earlier, to hold on...

There is very little "structure" to that brush hog design. The gearbox is sitting directly in the top deck sheet (very thin), there is no bracing. The bracing that is there are the 2x rounded formed sheet metal tube braces that are broken. In this design - these 2 tube braces are what...

Good replies and info. Just an observation on the BOAZ and EQ Machinery - I haven't found any recent info on EQ Machinery. Their site doesn't appear to exist anymore. I am assuming they have gone out of business. I have not researched other over-seas vendors/manufacturers to see what is...

Cover crop that unlocks phosphorous in the soil. It grows fast, also, and in dense stands (high population) it can overtake weeds. It also promotes healthy organism growth in the soil. Tilled in the organic matter is, furthermore, good for the soil...

Excellent input. I am very interested in your idea and progress. From the sounds of it I think you are addressing one major question I had with the idea of cutting in the field and transporting for processing. I am not sure that we will get to the point of having even 1/2 acre of any...

Thanks for the discussion thus far. Lots to think about. I certainly don't know everything and mechanized farming has become quite tehnologically advanced. That said, I worked in the Ag industry for a number of years and have run numerous combines of lots of colors. So Im not "new" to the...

All, I am looking in to various grains to grow on the farm. These would be primarily for milling down to flour to bake with. Down the road we may have 1/2 to 1 acre of different types. I am hoping next year we can plant some in small plots to experiment and see how it does here - that I think...

Aside from running an old Allis and brush hog a few years back, in my time in the ag industry (about 8 years in precision farming) I can't actually recall having run anything off a PTO. The only thing I can think of that may have would be a pump for a pull-type sprayer. Everything else was...

That may take some getting used to. We're going to have a lot of brush hogging to do going backwards so there's going to be a lot of forward/reverse shifting with the PTO engaged. I should probably make some kind of cage to keep me out of the brush and trees too but that will be down the road...

Just a quick note and a question since I dont have the machine running with a pto implement - The pto engagement lever seems very "loose" to me. Playing with it tonight I found it is, in fact, engaging and disengaging. However, it seems all it is doing is dropping a gear in to engage. There is...

Other than moving the machine this weekend I don't have much progress. I did get in to the side panel earlier Saturday to find the timing needle on the crank shaft pulley. That is so gunked up I can't see what it reads right now. And that is where I stopped. I need to get in there deeper to...

You're fine. I was just being thorough with the PN's/info. As to a whole kit under one PN - I didnt ask. I should have. At this point, though, they were already ordered yesterday and I need them for the weekend so Ill keep the order the way it is.

I think you may have only pulled up the points set. There are 4 part numbers: 353172R91 - Points Set 353903R92 - Condenser 353896R91 - Rotor 351693R92 - Distributor Cap If you run those through that online store you linked to you can find the pricing. The condenser, I want to say, was the...

The plugs I have now are Champion UD16's. Is there any merit to sticking to the same? Switching to the Autolites you mention? Or something else? On my small engines I am converting to NGK ruthenium's as they are supposed to be better for natural gas (generator engines). But other than that, in a...

Well I ordered all the parts for the distributor (cap, condenser, rotor, points). The dealer had 2 of them and 2 had to be ordered. We should have them by the end of the week. Overall they are about $105 minus plugs. The kit from TSC with plugs is $70. So they are a good bit more expensive for...

I got a tip from a friend that has been bouncing some ideas off another guy he knows that works on old tractors also that Tractor Supply may have some "tune up" or "refresh" kits for various ignition systems. It appears they have one for some early IH machines. See link. From the parts I have -...

Does anyone know if the way the seat frames/mounts work in the L60's and LX20's the same way? I'm wondering if even though the air ride seat doesn't show as an option for the LX20 if it can be added after-the-fact.

Here are some more pictures from this weekend. This weekend's progress: Ran new wires to new key switch - starter and ignition Ran new spark plug wires between distributor, ignition coil, and spark plugs Cleaned all contacts/points in the ignition circuit I put a resettable 10a fuse on the...

Ive been back at it this weekend. I got the start and ignition circuits re-wired. The ignition coil has power to it. I wired the ballast resistor in the circuit as described in the schematics. The spark plug wires and coil to distributor wire needed replaced. So I went to a parts place and...

We were looking at the MX series, also. However, we need the machine trailerable to transport it. The smaller the machine the easier we can do that. We also like the mid-mount mower option on the LX series. Though the L60 has a mid-PTO, it is not compatible with a mid-mount mower - it is for...

Thanks for the reply. The L60 series has some premium features above the LX20 series - I believe air ride seat options are one. Is there anything else you can comment on about the Kubota design in general? What other machines did you compare to before going with the 60 series? Thanks

For what it is worth, also, the IH-201 shop manual (which covers many machine models, of which the 444 is included in the series) shows 5 different carbs: Zenith 67x7 Zenith 267x9 assembly # 12685 Zenith 267x9 assembly # 12758 Marvel-Schebler TSX748 Marvel-Schebler TSX857 Based on that I am...

I'm not where the machine is sitting so I can't easily check. I went through my pictures and the only ones I have show the assembled carb from the direction it is mounted on the tractor or the insides. The only indicators I see on it are the "Marvel-Schebler" in the cast flange that bolts to the...

Found a diagram of a similar Marvel-Shebler carb. They call out the "power adjusting needle" in the location where the solenoid + needle adjusting screw on the top sit. Now I realize the whole needle rod is missing on mine = blows my whole theory out of the water. Maybe it will run the...

Doing the math on the solenoid threads - 10 threads in 1/4" - the caliper points are 1/4" apart: That means the pitch is 40tpi. That is more fine than "fine thread" 1/4" at 32tpi. That might be next to impossible to find a bolt for. Next idea - using a ball bearing to close off the ports...

Thanks for the info. This is quite a learning experience on a lot of levels. All the resources and tidbits here help. I was not aware of the red power forum. Ive done a lot of mechanical and electrical/electronic work over the years. I wont recap everything here, but electronic down to smt...

I am still chewing through this one. Looking at the info (and thanks a bunch for the links) - if I were to guess - the solenoid actually controls air, not fuel, in that when it is open (off) it allows the vacuum of the engine running to draw air through the main jet, instead of fuel, there by...

Here are a couple pictures showing the ring gear and starter. They aren't the greatest, but the ring gear doesn't appear to have any "missing teeth" in the area that is exposed. Just the gear on the starter seems like the tips of the teeth are worn down.

OK, I need to add some humor to this thread. At least I about fell over laughing when I got the hood off the other day... My God that is a Gorilla Weld if I've ever seen one :ROFLMAO: But hey, if it works... Now to some other "uglies" - the exhaust portion of the manifold is cracked in 2...

OK on all. As to the fuse idea - that is a valid one. I have a bunch of fuses, but not sure I have sutable holders. I can look, and order more if need-be. The bit about the ignition you mention is really helpful. That is what it looks like from the diagrams. And the 12v "hot start" comes from...

The wire from the solenoid is broken off, the remnants are there inside the can.

Here is another mystery at the moment - the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb. Is there a way to block that port? Or does the solenoid definitely have to be there and powered to get fuel thru the main jet?

Judging from the wiring I've been poking around with - I am not impressed at all with the integrity of it. The insulation is cracked and the copper inside is exposed/green pretty much all the way through the harness. So I think the smarter way to go about this, unless I was to do a full tear...

More progress. The only diagram I can find on the electrical is in, of all places, the Operators Manual. It calls out the previous parts that the online CNH site diagram had grayed out. So that is a bit more of a leg up. However, there are no "schematics" that I have come across yet. At least...

Any thoughts on these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08LVLBNBF/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A19T7KWHKV47SX&psc=1

Thanks for the replies. I get the point on the "pressure" factor as opposed to "flow". I wasnt thinking "pressure", was just concerned on the fuel flow - in that a 42hp gas tractor engine will probably drink more fuel than a 20hp generator engine or 25hp outboard, for example. Ill see what I...

What are some of you using for low pressure fuel pumps? I'd also be curious if there are any thoughts of a burn rate for an old 42hp engine - gasoline. This would be good to have for sizing the pump (too low of flow and the engine will starve). Tractor is a 1968 International 444. I am...

I also got the following manuals: Operators Manual PN 1082661R2 Service Manual PN IH-201 I have not studied either in detail yet to see if everything matches, however the controls are called out in the Op Manual - so that is a good help up front.

I got the tractor off the trailer last night. While I was poking around with it I started studying it. The fuel line is rotted off of the carb and tank. I should have everything here I need to get something on it, with a filter. The question is getting the tank out and cleaned enough to use. I...

Here is the SN plate. It says USA on it. I am not sure on the SN, other than it shows up on Tractor Data as a 1968 model year. Thoughts?

I am hoping I can have the machine off the trailer this week. If not, this weekend. When I get back to it I can check the fluid leak mentioned. The loader frame that goes under the trans is where it is pretty wet, but where it was coming from I am guessing was between the engine and trans above...

Thanks for all the info. I wasnt expecting all that right up front. I may have a copy of the service manual headed my direction already. As to splitting the tractor to address some potential leak points/seals - I am hoping I dont have to do that just to get it "going". My hope is I can get...

For quick reference here are a couple other related threads: Pre-purchase - International 444 gas - been sitting for years. Trailering - Trailer rails are 76" apart, tractor with wheels is 82" wide - take wheels off? We just bought a 1968 International 444. For some of the details on condition...

We got the tractor back yesterday. So far I think we did OK on this one. Since the deal is done I'll start another thread on working through the machine.

Got another trailer to use for a while. Easy swap with a buddy - I had enough capacity on mine and the rails won't impede them for what they need. Anywho, tractor is home. God works in great ways - sometimes at the last minute.

What I need to find are: The bolt pattern (spacing) - yellow Thread diameter + pitch Inner hole diameter and flange depth from front hub face - green. I have to cut parts today to bolt up to that pattern and I don't have the machine here to measure - that is what the parts are for - to get the...

Edit 7/28/24 - disregard. We got the machine home. If the thread stays consider it historical reference. Does anyone know how to find the dimensions and bolt pattern of the rear wheels on a 444 and similar machine (several series/models should share the same pattern)?

Unfortunately, the "move" isn't across town. Its out-of-state. On the up side, I went to check a buddy's trailer yesterday. Its a vehicle/equipment trailer with a mostly unobstructed deck, aside from the wheel wells (no top rails, just deck and front headacke rack about 14"). The wheel wells...

That is a consideration - and yes we have that option if we need it, but I dont think we'll need it. There are lots of parts/assemblies that could be sold if it came to that.

Is there an easy way to find the bolt pattern/dimensions of the rear wheels/hubs?

Landscaping trailer with side rails, it isnt a deck with open overhang. The side rails are 14" above the deck.

Heres a wild thought - make a hub adapter that will let me bolt smaller trailer wheels/tires to it. It doesn't have to be pretty, just work well enough to make the trip.

Old International 444. Not sure on year. It does not have shaft/clamp style axles that can bring the hubs in close. The hubs are right at the ends of the differential housing and the wheels bolt directly to the hub with no spacers. So the only hope was to reverse the wheel dishing by swapping...

That is the conundrum - tractor + wheels is 6" wider than the width of the rails on my trailer. I had the wheels measured to see if we can flip them around and by the time we do that it only looks like we'll gain an inch or so - not enough. So the next option is to take the wheels off. The...

Looking in your signature yours is a 424. I'm not sure what the difference between the x24 and x44 series is. That said - what did you have to do to get the hydraulic pump and water pump out/in? I assume the set ups are similar between the diesel and gas, but maybe they are more different in...

More info - When cranked the hydraulics work - 3pt, loader. When cranked the PTO engages and disengages/rotates. Shifter was worked a bit and is no longer totally "stuck". Still not sure on clutches/trans unless its running, though.

This is the trans - only 2 reverse gears (hi/lo range).

It does have power steering, at least 1 remote, and a loader.

I dont know what trans it has. I can try and ask. It has a lever left of the shifer so I assume that is the PTO from what has been said here.

All, I am looking at an International 444, gas engine, with a loader to try and get something going on a machine for not a whole lot of $. That sounds like quite the risk, I know. Ive got a lead on one that isnt running. Im pretty good with the fuel and electrical systems. I think I can...

Are those rims the same? Or are the rims wider on the radials?

We're looking at getting the LX3520HSDC Deluxe Cab machine. I am curious if anyone here has any field experience with one, or owns one themselves? Something I am curious on is the "suspension seat". It is not listed as "air ride", but is "adjustable". Can anyone offer any thoughts on how it...

The tires listed in the build form online are as follows: R1's Front - 7-12 R1 Rear - 12.4x16 R1 R4's Front - Titan 25x850-14 R4 STL 6BLT TL2 Rear - Titan 15-19.5 R4 STL 6BLT TL2 There are other options for R4's, one or two more others I think. As far as I can tell, the R1's are just one...

All, I am working through options on an LX3520HSDC (deluxe cab version, not the SU cab) and am curious what thoughts everyone has on tires. I am not sure I like the R14's. My thoughts right now are to lean towards the R4's, however I have a tangent thought on those - see below. We will be...