International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going

   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going #141  
If it doesn't have live power, with the clutch pedal blocked down, and transmission in gear, engage the PTO, put a wrench on the PTO shaft and turn it. This is the method I use when I split a tractor at the engine bell housing, only don't have to worry about blocking the clutch pedal down to get it back together the last few inches.

I use a large adjustable/Crescent wrench to turn it, but a socket may slip on the shaft, and using a ratchet may speed the process. Here, I'd probably get an old female PTO shaft and modify it to fit my impact. Theres times it pays to have "stuff" laying around.

It may take a while to move it, but not any longer than it'd take to rig up what you're thinking.
 
   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#142  
Good idea on the pto shaft to move the tractor. Ill have to keep that in mind.

The rigging plate, though, will help us drag everything else in to the shop - equipment and vehicles. So it has a larger purpose than this one project/situation.
 
   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#143  
Just a quick update so far this weekend:

I got the rigging plate fabricated and bolted to the shop floor. It works fantastic.

With the rigging plate in place I was able to get to work today on the tractor work that I've been needing to get to - splitting the lift housing from the chassis. That was a success. It took a while as I had to reorganize the shop in order to get the room to winch the tractor backwards and forwards. So that aspect of the work is now checked off the list.

I also got the transmission top cover - with the shifter and forks - off the transmission. In inspecting the transmission - it appears all the gears are in good shape. I don't see anything that is much of a concern in there yet.

What is a concern is the shifter won't move side to side past 1/R - even while out of the transmission. The good news in that is what is hanging it up is not IN the transmission, it is associated with the shifter assembly.

The bad news is I can't find a diagram that shows the proper assembly of the shifter forks/sliders. The parts manual shows an exploded view of the parts, however it does not depict the assembled components or how they assemble.

That said - I can't tell if the hang-up is the ball on the end of the shifter not sliding in to the notches in the higher gear sliders; or if the shift lever is seized on the pivot pin.

I will try to disassemble the shift lever from the top and see what I can find. My hope there is I can pull it out of the top of the cover without disturbing the slides underneath. We'll see what happens.
 
   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#144  
Another weekend update - the shifter is freed up, mostly.

The issue was 2 parts. The 1st part was gunk clogging the slot between the sliders. That prevented the initial side to side movement in the shifter. However, after disassembling the whole assembly it was apparent the larger pin was seized. It had enough slop somewhere that the shifter was able to move side to side somewhat with the gunk out of the way, but not enough to get it to move between the sliders. I sprayed the pins with Deep Creep penetrating lube and beat on the shifter with a ball peen hammer. This got things to move, but they will still need to be worked more to loosen up.

Pictures to follow.

The stage I am at is quite critical - this was the primary issue I knew of when we bought the tractor. So getting to this point - resolving it - is a big milestone for us.

The next work sequence on the machine:
1. Gaskets - I want to use the full sheet gasket method mentioned earlier for gaskets I don't have/cant find easy. This will take some time - maybe a week or two.

2. Put things back together.

3. Start focusing on the engine. The engine quitting on us is why we downed the tractor to begin with, its just while it was down I had to address the transmission issue (which led in to all the weeks of work I'm wrapping up now).
 
   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#145  
This is the rigging plate and rigging I set up with it to move the tractor. There is a 2" ratchet strap going under the door to a vehicle in the drive as an anchor for the front. I am thinking of putting a rigging plate up there, also, but I am not sure I want that "obstruction" in the way of the floor and rolling things by up by the door. So for the time being the strap out the door to an anchor method is fine.

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   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#146  
With the tractor chassis mobile now I could get the lift housing up and the chassis out from under it.

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After I moved the tractor chassis out from under the lift housing I set the lift housing back down on the ground - where it will sit for a long while. I need to order some gasket material and will need to clean up the seal surfaces yet.

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   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#147  
Here are some pictures of the shifter assembly. There is some rust visible. However, the gunk between the sliders should be self-explanatory on the "hang up" issue.

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   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going #148  
Any local auto parts store should be able to get it for you within a couple days, maybe even have it in stock. What I'm seeing in most stores is Fel-Pro brand which is what I use. It comes in a few widths, and a lot more choices on length, and thickness. On thickness I'm guessing 1/16", but if you have a way to measure should give you an idea. Heck, take a piece with you, most stores have a set of digital calipers to measure with.

If you're not sure what type to use, I checked out Fel-Pro's site and they have a technical page and a 1-800 number to call to answer customer questions : Customer Service, Support & Contact Info | Fel-Pro Gaskets Bad thing is their hours are roughly 7:30 to 4:30, sometimes hard for the working guy on dayshift to call unless it's at break time, or lunch time. I mainly use the Fel-Pro Karropak which seals against oils, mainly on final drive components. That and sealed with a brush on sealer made by Permatex. I've used several such as High Tack, Aviation, 300, etc. used for the same purpose on the same type of gaskets. The main thing I look for is one that doesn't dry out and get brittle.

If a little squeezes out when you're done cleanup is easy with a spritz of brake/carb cleaner and wipe it off.
 
   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
  • Thread Starter
#149  
You may want to consider making your own, it's really not all that hard.

You'll want the surface cleaned up. For smaller area gaskets, cut a piece slightly larger that needed. Lay it on the piece you're making the gasket for. Take the pointed end of the hammer and tap out the bolt holes first. I have multiple ball pein hammers in the 6 oz. to 12 oz. range specifically for this purpose.

Can you detail your hammers a bit more?

I am looking at this autobody repair set that has a pointed hammer also. Is that adequate for the holes?


What have you found to be the most useful? What really comes in handy that you use once in a while but are really glad you have it?
 
   / International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going #150  
Just a basic ball peen hammer works best like pictured below, the body hammer with pointed end is too pointed, it will pull/draw the gasket material inward, tried one of those many, many years ago. 8-to-12-ounce hammers work good with the ball end (rounded/domed end) with a more prominent/pointed end. Seems newer hammers in store are blunter. On larger bolts it's best to tap around the hole numerous places to make the initial cut, then once the gasket material fibers are basically cut, you can center the hammer on the hole take another hammer and with a few light taps finish cutting the material.

When making gaskets for the transmission case, that little tab will be in the bolt hole, pull material to the side and take a small screwdriver or shop pick push down on one side and it should turn so you can get ahold of it and pull it out. Lay material back down and run a bolt in to hold it in place, then go to the next hole, and so on. Get all of the bolt holes cut first and insert bolts.

On a piece like that with a straight edge on one side I use the factory edge of the material even with it to help keep it aligned. Next, start tapping on the inside of the case on about a 45º angle, you'll want to tap right on the sharp edge of the case. I'd advise starting on the side that has some material hanging over the edge, it will help keep the material from pulling inward. Once you go an inch or so, you can turn the hammer over and use the flat end and make faster progress until you get close to a corner. I'm assuming the corners are somewhat rounded so switch back to the peen end. Cut/tap around the corner, go another inch or so, then back to the flat end until almost to the next corner then switch back.

You don't need to hit hard, just some light to medium taps to start with until you see what it takes to cut the material. On a long run you may tap an inch or so, then tap back to make the clean cut, or flip the hammer and use the other side to make the clean cut.

Do know you'll have some fuzzies on the edges. For these, take a sharp box cutter knife and rake backwards on the edges. You'll want to hold the gasket close to where you're scraping and only go a few inches at a time. You may still have a few hanging on what was the lower side, just adjust the angle on the knife to wipe them off.

If there are alignment dowels, tap it with the flat end to mark it, then tap it at a 45º angle as most have a slight beveled end. Tapping on a 45º will cut it below the bevel if there is any. You should be able to push the material down over the dowel and continue. Just be careful pulling it back off to clean up the fuzzies.

It may sound a whole lot more complicated than it really is but isn't. It would be nice if you had a smaller piece to experiment with and gain some feel and confidence. But just take your time and you'll get it.

If you have any 8-12 oz. ball peen hammers in your toolbox, they'll probably work fine. I looked up new hammers at several big box stores, and Ace Hardware and they all seem to have pretty blunt peen ends. All of mine have come from Flea Markets and yard sales and have never paid over $3 ea. for them. Got to say I was surprised when looking up new ones. I've probably have 25-30 of those hammers with the correct points on them but still pick them up when I see them for a decent price. Having 4 shops, and several tractors with toolboxes they have a tendency to migrate off so I try to keep a good stock to save hunting one up.

I'm the same way with 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches. If it's made in U.S.A and $2- $3 it's mine. Never have enough as I may have 2-3 things I'm working on at the same time and usually leave the tools with what I'm working on so as not to have to chase them down. I hit the jackpot 2 years ago on our way to Johnstown Swappers Day stopping at a yard sale we stop at every year. 4 older gents get together and are selling off/downsizing their shops. Had this box of wrenches for $1 ea. I had half of them in my hand, and the guy looked at me and said $10 take the whole box which included the elusive 10mm wrench. DEAL..!! Got the Vise-Grip welding pliers for $5. It was a good day.


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