Chainsaw chain sharpening.......

[Oldpath05]

When I sharpen my son's Stihl 44 couple months ago with my Granberg, I had to go around that 6 times to get the correct edge on it because it was so dull. I thought it sharpen harder then my Oregon chains, after the 5th time I was about ready to take a hand grinder on it, even saw files ware out quicker on Stihl brand chains, the good part is they stay sharper longer.

 

[Molalla1]

When I sharpen my son's Stihl 44 couple months ago with my Granberg, I had to go around that 6 times to get the correct edge on it because it was so dull. I thought it sharpen harder then my Oregon chains, after the 5th time I was about ready to take a hand grinder on it, even saw files ware out quicker on Stihl brand chains, the good part is they stay sharper longer.

That is why I take my chains to my local Stihl dealer . . . .

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That is why I take my chains to my local Stihl dealer .

Then you either don't use many chains in a year, OR your rich!

I'd go broke if I had to take my chains in to be sharpened...

SR

 

[4570Man]

That is why I take my chains to my local Stihl dealer . . . .

If it’s that bad any saw shop even the ones that could do a good job are probably going to do a lousy job. You have to take a light touch with the power grinder to not ruin it and they’re probably not going to make 6 passes. Next problem to be addressed is the need to make 6 passes. Everyone hits something besides wood occasionally but if your chains routinely look that bad you should probably just give your saw to someone that knows how to use it.

 

[goeduck]

Tough crowd.

 

[ArlyA]

I agree.. funny how most subjects descend into ^@?_(. Returning to chains. We work in the dirt and dull them very quickly but thats what trail work is like. We carry sharp spares and freehand file them in the field. Maybe we aren't all that smart :ashamed:

Tough crowd.

 

[John_Mc]

Once you start using a properly setup power sharpener to obtain a square, true factory fresh sharpened chain . You will wonder why anyone fools around with a handheld file .

Been there, done that (both myself and taking the saw to an expert with the grinder). Went back to sharpening by hand for all but severely rocked chains. I'll sharpen in the field as needed, but generally carry a spare in case a more serious problem develops. I like the break that sharpening forces me to take (because I'll notice when the chain is dull long before I notice that I'm getting tired or dehydrated). I also like the better performance with a hand sharpened chain.

Not everyone makes the same choice, and that's fine with me. We all have our own trade-offs in cost vs time spent vs. performance. We end up settling on what works best for us.

Then you either don't use many chains in a year, OR your rich!

I'd go broke if I had to take my chains in to be sharpened...

SR

The equation definitely changes a bit if you are doing this for a living. I suspect the majority of the chainsaw users on here don't use them as heavily as you.

If it’s that bad any saw shop even the ones that could do a good job are probably going to do a lousy job. You have to take a light touch with the power grinder to not ruin it and they’re probably not going to make 6 passes.

In my book, that would take them of my list of "good shops" for sharpening. A good one is one who does the job right every time.

 

[Molalla1]

Then you either don't use many chains in a year, OR your rich!

I'd go broke if I had to take my chains in to be sharpened...

SR

SR, I shall say we are OK . . . but yep I do not down that many trees anymore . . .

 

[shooterdon]

John_Mc,

I learned a lot from your comments on this thread and appreciate your efforts to makes some sense of this topic. As a "weekend warrior", (and I suspect 95% of us are), we do not know what we do not know. I am guilty of using a chain well past when it should be sharpened. I will no longer do that as the Pferd tool will be easy for a novice like me to use. Like you said, it is not perfect, but good enough and way better than an ignoramus like me attacking a chain with a hand held file.

Although it is interesting to learn what heavy users do, their needs are different. I find too many of them rabid about "their way" and believe everyone should do what they do. But many of us, lack the skills, intelligence, motivation, or are too lazy to learn. I am one of those "training wheel" guys. Makes more sense (cents?) to invest $35 in the Pferd and get a decent sharpening job for the 6 cords of wood a year I process. Sometimes good enough is good enough.

Again, thanks for your input.

 

[Oldpath05]

This saw sharpening video is as good as any............. How the Pro's sharpen a chainsaw - YouTube

 

[goeduck]

John_Mc,

I learned a lot from your comments on this thread and appreciate your efforts to makes some sense of this topic. As a "weekend warrior", (and I suspect 95% of us are), we do not know what we do not know. I am guilty of using a chain well past when it should be sharpened. I will no longer do that as the Pferd tool will be easy for a novice like me to use. Like you said, it is not perfect, but good enough and way better than an ignoramus like me attacking a chain with a hand held file.

Although it is interesting to learn what heavy users do, their needs are different. I find too many of them rabid about "their way" and believe everyone should do what they do. But many of us, lack the skills, intelligence, motivation, or are too lazy to learn. I am one of those "training wheel" guys. Makes more sense (cents?) to invest $35 in the Pferd and get a decent sharpening job for the 6 cords of wood a year I process. Sometimes good enough is good enough.

Again, thanks for your input.

Well said. :thumbsup: Other than your humble comments about yourself. Many, if not all of us, come to TBN learn.

 

[Ortimber]

I cut a lot of wood (as my name might suggest). Over the years I’ve tried numerous gadgets related to sharpening chains. A few things I’ve learned:

A properly hand filed chain is hard to beat for cutting performance. Keeping the correct angle is important.

Chains nearing the end of their useful life cut as fast or faster than new ones if properly sharpened. This is due to having more chip clearance in the gullet. I believe a lot of people toss chains way before they are used up.

The depth gages/rakers cannot be “eyeballed” to the proper depth as some suggest. Use a guide or some other means to ensure they are consistent to one another.

Files wear out fairly fast. Keep them clean and replace often.

Stihl chains are my personal favorite. They use the very best steel.

Dull saws are dangerous.

 

[Molalla1]

You Sir are a pro . . . I used to do the same a century ago . . . and you are spot on about the files, chains.

 

[John_Mc]

I cut a lot of wood (as my name might suggest). Over the years I致e tried numerous gadgets related to sharpening chains. A few things I致e learned:

A properly hand filed chain is hard to beat for cutting performance. Keeping the correct angle is important.

Chains nearing the end of their useful life cut as fast or faster than new ones if properly sharpened. This is due to having more chip clearance in the gullet. I believe a lot of people toss chains way before they are used up.

The depth gages/rakers cannot be "eyeballed" to the proper depth as some suggest. Use a guide or some other means to ensure they are consistent to one another.

Files wear out fairly fast. Keep them clean and replace often.

Stihl chains are my personal favorite. They use the very best steel.

Dull saws are dangerous.

I could not agree more.

Do you do anything special to clean your files (beyond occasionally tapping them on something to knock some of the crud off?)

 

[Motorboatin]

I could not agree more.

Do you do anything special to clean your files (beyond occasionally tapping them on something to knock some of the crud off?)

File brushes are what you use and they are cheap

 

[John_Mc]

John_Mc,

I learned a lot from your comments on this thread and appreciate your efforts to makes some sense of this topic. As a "weekend warrior", (and I suspect 95% of us are), we do not know what we do not know. I am guilty of using a chain well past when it should be sharpened. I will no longer do that as the Pferd tool will be easy for a novice like me to use. Like you said, it is not perfect, but good enough and way better than an ignoramus like me attacking a chain with a hand held file.

Although it is interesting to learn what heavy users do, their needs are different. I find too many of them rabid about "their way" and believe everyone should do what they do. But many of us, lack the skills, intelligence, motivation, or are too lazy to learn. I am one of those "training wheel" guys. Makes more sense (cents?) to invest $35 in the Pferd and get a decent sharpening job for the 6 cords of wood a year I process. Sometimes good enough is good enough.

Again, thanks for your input.

Glad it was of help. My way is most definitely not the only way, but there are a lot of misconceptions out there about what it takes to get a good sharp chain. There are also an awful lot of people out there who don't realize what they are missing by having a properly sharpened chain (and as I mentioned, a lot of people who only think they have a well sharpened chain). A chain should "self-feed" into the wood, and cut straight and feel smooth. Yes, you can sharpen it in ways to make it more aggressive. It will cut a bit faster, but it will wear out the chain, the saw, and the operator faster as well (not to mention adversely effecting operator safety).

I ended up not using the Pferd/Stihl tool myself, because I prefer some of the other guides and the results I get. I cut firewood with some friends who love that tool. Any of them are better than not sharpening your chain, and are safer and smoother-operating than sharpening your chain incorrectly.

I may have already stated this somewhere along the line here, but a favorite quote from a professional logger who also runs the Game of Logging (GOL) training in my area: "You don't sharpen a chain because it got dull. You sharpen a chain to keep it from getting dull."

One of the better chainsaw sharpening videos I've seen out there was done by the guy who made that quote. You can find it here:
The Art & Science of Sawchain Sharpening You have to buy or rent the video, but it's worth the few bucks to have it as a reference. I was taught his technique at one of the GOL classes. I bought the DVD to have to lend out to friends (who fell into two camps: they either admitted they didn't know how to sharpen a chain and always took it to a service to get it sharpened, or they thought they knew how to sharpen a chain, but were convinced otherwise when someone who using one of those guides sharpened their saw for them.) Every one of those people now uses one of the guides he demonstrates in the video or uses the Stihl/Pferd tool.

Unfortunately, the video does not show the Pferd/Stihl tool (I believe an older, less convenient version of the tool was being sold by Pferd when this video was made), but it's still handy to see even if you are using the Pferd tool: it gives a good background on what is going on with a saw chain and what you are looking for in a good sharpening job. Also, some of the techniques are universal, regardless of the tool you are using.

 

[Ortimber]

I could not agree more.

Do you do anything special to clean your files (beyond occasionally tapping them on something to knock some of the crud off?)

Nope, nothing special regarding file maintenance. For round files, I just tap them after every few strokes. For flat files, I use a file brush.

 

[John_Mc]

File brushes are what you use and they are cheap
/QUOTE]

Do you use them on your round files as well?

 

[ericm979]

I use a file brush on my round chain files.

 

[Motorboatin]

Do you use them on your round files as well?

Yes

Put the file in a drill and run the brush along the file