Need help filing rakers on a "low-kickback" chain.

[sixdogs]

When I lived in Maine I cut a lot of wood and like to think I know what I'm doing and stay as safe as I can. That's how I wound up with low-kickback chain in two saws that I haven't used in a long time. There are few trees where I live.

In getting ready to use them, I can hand file the teeth correctly but forgot how I used to do the rakers on this chain. There is another piece of metal on the chain that interferes with filing the raker. I don't know if a standard raker plate is what to use or what to do and not much on the internet for advice.

Any help or advice on filing low-kickback chain rakers?

 

[xyz123]

Which low kick back chain? Pic worth 1000 words or at least more info then that given.

Some file just like normal and some dont.

 

[sixdogs]

Here they are...


In looking at these ( from two saws) magnified, I can see the anti-kickback things are just thin rakers the same height as the rakers. What do you think I should do?

 

[xyz123]

Those 3/8LP 325 chain with shark fins you just take the raker down with the flat file. Those are easy ones to do.

Slowest dang cutting crap chains made IMO in 3/8LP too. Those are what I use for root cutting.

Buy some good chain IMO.

 

[newbury]

What do you think I should do?

Carefully remove the two chains and buy replacement loops of Stihl chain.
Where proper PPE and be careful.
"Safety chain" is for people who shouldn't be operating chainsaws.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

Carefully remove the two chains and buy replacement loops of Stihl chain.
Where proper PPE and be careful.
"Safety chain" is for people who shouldn't be operating chainsaws.

"Safety chain" is for people who shouldn't be operating chainsaws.

Agree and couldn't have said it better myself.

 

[sixdogs]

Those 3/8LP 325 chain with shark fins you just take the raker down with the flat file. Those are easy ones to do.

Slowest dang cutting crap chains made IMO in 3/8LP too. Those are what I use for root cutting.

By some good chain IMO.

Thank you. My cutting on the flat ground farmland is limited to limbing shelter belt trees. Next chain will be normal.

I've cut plenty over the years but learned watching Buckin' Billy Ray teaching how to sharpen a chain. An entertaining guy.

 

[Richard]

A dozen years ago, I bought a roll of chain. I think I got it from Oregon maybe (??) They cut it into loops for me so a box arrives and I've got 20/30 individual chain loops in boxes ready to go.

(I did this because I had taken a chain out to be sharpened.... was felling a tree and the tree settled, pinching my bar. I smiled, went to garage and got my extra bar and freshly sharpened chain......which would not cut butter. They didn't touch the rakers. I'll leave it at that rather than describe how I felt, especially with a tree halfway sawn thorugh)

Now I sharpen myself. Rakers annoy me so last time I thought I'd try an experiment. I might get skinned alive for saying this but, I took my hand held 4" grinder and with a couple light touches, ground them down as best I could to zero.

Went to go cut paying attention to what's going on.... if chain got wonky I was going to flush the project and just slap another chain on. Worked great. I might do that to the rest of them when they are up for sharpening. Didn't take too long.

 

[jyoutz]

You can buy a raker gauge that sits on top of the chain with a cut out for the raker. Use a flat file and file according to the gauge.

 

[dodge man]

I’ve got a Stihl racker gauge I use and maybe file them a hair lower. I use a Stihl chains but there are other good ones I know. I’ve never seen a chain like the OP showed in his pictures.

 

[sea2summit]

A dozen years ago, I bought a roll of chain. I think I got it from Oregon maybe (??) They cut it into loops for me so a box arrives and I've got 20/30 individual chain loops in boxes ready to go.

(I did this because I had taken a chain out to be sharpened.... was felling a tree and the tree settled, pinching my bar. I smiled, went to garage and got my extra bar and freshly sharpened chain......which would not cut butter. They didn't touch the rakers. I'll leave it at that rather than describe how I felt, especially with a tree halfway sawn thorugh)

Now I sharpen myself. Rakers annoy me so last time I thought I'd try an experiment. I might get skinned alive for saying this but, I took my hand held 4" grinder and with a couple light touches, ground them down as best I could to zero.

Went to go cut paying attention to what's going on.... if chain got wonky I was going to flush the project and just slap another chain on. Worked great. I might do that to the rest of them when they are up for sharpening. Didn't take too long.

You’re saying you completely removed the rakers?

 

[RandyT]

Here they are...
View attachment 822334View attachment 822335

In looking at these ( from two saws) magnified, I can see the anti-kickback things are just thin rakers the same height as the rakers. What do you think I should do?

I take the chain off of the saw when they come to the shop for sharpening. Bend the chain on each side of the safety link and run then across the bench grinder. And then treat the depth gauges as normal.

 

[Jstpssng]

Hopefully the OP has learned what he needed to know.
The first/last time that K had one of those safety chains I put a fresh wheel on my angle grinder and took them down so that they didn't cause problems. I then was able to file the rakers the same way I always do. Since then I've always kept a new chain on hand and replace it the first time it gets put on the saw. I also have two or three old chains kicking around.

 

[dodge man]

I went back and looked at the OP’s pics again. I don’t understand the purpose of the weird extra link? Almost like a skip chain? I assume it’s a antikick back feature.

 

[sixdogs]

I went back and looked at the OP’s pics again. I don’t understand the purpose of the weird extra link? Almost like a skip chain? I assume it’s a antikick back feature.

I'm the OP and that's just the way saws came out of a local place that sold saws. I believe it to be anti-kickback. I used to cut a lot 30 years ago but it's not 30 years ago any more. There are almost no trees here and I'm older and rusty. I sharpened according the the clip from Billy I inserted in this thread and the saws cut perfect. I wear chaps, boots, Kevlar gloves and a helmet since I've seen saw cuts.

All I do is limb shelter belt trees and occasionally cut down a 16" softwood. It's pretty easy, I get nice chips, no dust and fly through the cut. People here cut in flip-flops, one handed or on shaky ladders and things any woodcutter would shudder at in disbelief.

 

[RandyT]

I went back and looked at the OP’s pics again. I don’t understand the purpose of the weird extra link? Almost like a skip chain? I assume it’s a antikick back feature.

the extra weird link is a safety link to help prevent the cutters from contacting the wood when they go around the nose of the bar. When the chain goes around the bar nose the rear of that link will extend higher than the depth gauge.

 

[Sonny580]

grab the 4" angle grinder and get rid of that crap between the cutters!!! Thats the first thing I do when I run into one of these stupid design chains!

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[ruffdog]

I take the chain off of the saw when they come to the shop for sharpening. Bend the chain on each side of the safety link and run then across the bench grinder. And then treat the depth gauges as normal.

This is what I do.^^^ Then buy non-safety chain in the future.

 

[Skeletor]

Take a half a dozen swipes with the file over each cutter. See how it cuts. If you
Want more hit it again. You can feel it if it starts getting grabby on you.