goeduck
Super Star Member
I hate it too, and never do it!!
I just carry a couple extra chains and change as needed, then grind them when I feel like it.
SR
Same here. :thumbsup:
I hate it too, and never do it!!
I just carry a couple extra chains and change as needed, then grind them when I feel like it.
SR
I hate it too, and never do it!!
I just carry a couple extra chains and change as needed, then grind them when I feel like it.
SR
For one thing, you can get better results by hand sharpening than you can with a grinder..
Maybe 1 percent of weekend wood cutters can but the vast majority can’t.
Maybe 1 percent of weekend wood cutters can but the vast majority can’t.
Of all the folks I've personally met who free-hand sharpen their own chains (just a round file, no guide) , the vast majority can not do a better job freehand filing than a good resharpen on a grinder (I'm talking someone who knows what they are doing with the grinder, not the hardware store flunky). This includes both weekend warriors and pros, though there are plenty who think they can.
However, it's not hard at all to get better than new-out-of-the-box performance when hand sharpening using one of the better guides out there. It does not take much to learn. I've taught a few chain-sharpening novices. They might not match the results of a truly good free-hand filer (those very few who are out there), but with just a little practice, they easily match or beat factory new or a grinder resharpen.

I took 2 swipes with a flat chainsaw file, regular flat files can file on the side so if one used that might end up hitting the just sharpen tooth.
Do you actually have pros available to sharpen a chain? 9-10 saw shops do an equivalent job as putting the chain on backwards and cutting a rock.
For years I've taken 3 swipes per raker with an 8" ******* file, a few times over the life of a chain. I never could get the hang of using a raker gauge. I also prefer to file by hand, as I like to run a file across the teeth at least every other tankful. I do put it in a vise and file with a guide occasionally. I did that yesterday with a new chain which cut through a nail the first time I used it, then after sharpening I proceeded to drive it into the dirt while cutting a dead Alberta Spruce off my mother's front lawn. Somehow I don't think that chain's going to last very long.
Maybe I should start a chainsaw chain sharpening service..... I figure I could sharpen 10 saw chains/day, if I charge only $100.00 for each 16"-18" saw chain, I should be able to make a living at it...................
That's becoming a problem around here. The guys who sharpened chains for others ad knew hat they are doing are all retiring, moving, or passing away. So many of the ones who are doing it now appear to have had about 10 minutes of training on the grinder, most of which probably involved "here's the on/off switch" and "Keep your hands away from here."
My Oregon grinder was that much, many years ago...Friends of mine had a rental center and serviced chain saws as well
They had a professional chain grinding tool and let me tell you it is not a 5 min training.
First there are 3 or so stones for different gauge chains.
Then there are 3 different angles to set the grinder to and the rakers call for another jig.
Then you don't simply grind away full force as that heats up the teeth so it calls for light taps. (very much like sharpening drill bits)
Also you have to reverse all those settings to do the other side teeth.
Now that grinding jig (tool) was somewhere in the $200 or so range and probably more these days and the stones weren't cheap either.