Saw Chain care and sharpening tips?

[goeduck]

I always thought the term "hand filing" meant a hand a file a chain, usually on the saw

True hand filing is just that, a file in your hand and the chain on the saw, nothing else. No Granberg, no Timberline, they are machines. They happen to be hand powered, but they are still machine guided, not true hand filing. I operate my Oregon bench grinder by hand, but that does not make it hand filing.

 

[eddie48]

I use an Oregon bench grinder with a cbn-plated wheel which holds the profile shape consistently and with an air blast directed at the tooth I am grinding to keep it cool. That gives me a very consistent and controllable sharpening of each tooth, keeping each one the same length and shape. I also hand sharpen when I need to in the woods. For those who have said that they hand sharpen the teeth at different lengths (depending on how much sharpening each needs) I would pose the following: If the tooth length varies, and you set the raker depth for each tooth, then don't you end up with a chain that is less efficient, since a long tooth with a corresponding high raker holds the saw a little higher than the next tooth which you have sharpened shorter and with a lower raker? Admittedly a small difference, but if you are looking for the most work from the chain...

 

[Deere Dude]

Sharpening the chain without taking the bar off seems like a great idea, but doesn't the bar need to be turned around now and then anyway?

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Yes it does, back in the shop.

 

[David Wayne]

Sharpening the chain without taking the bar off seems like a great idea, but doesn't the bar need to be turned around now and then anyway?

Yes, but not as often as the chain needs sharpened. I flip mine when the saw is in need of a good cleaning.

 

[motownbrowne]

I use an Oregon bench grinder with a cbn-plated wheel which holds the profile shape consistently and with an air blast directed at the tooth I am grinding to keep it cool. That gives me a very consistent and controllable sharpening of each tooth, keeping each one the same length and shape. I also hand sharpen when I need to in the woods. For those who have said that they hand sharpen the teeth at different lengths (depending on how much sharpening each needs) I would pose the following: If the tooth length varies, and you set the raker depth for each tooth, then don't you end up with a chain that is less efficient, since a long tooth with a corresponding high raker holds the saw a little higher than the next tooth which you have sharpened shorter and with a lower raker? Admittedly a small difference, but if you are looking for the most work from the chain...

My understanding is that each tooth actually rocks back as it contacts the wood, and how much wood it takes per pass is only affected by the rakers (depth gauge) height. The tooth in front or behind it doesn't affect it. I've heard of someone taking a new chain and grinding all the cutters on one side most of the way back, like it was an almost retired chain. Then they set the rakers at the right height and cut through a log. The chain cut just fine. Perhaps that's rural legend, but it makes sense to me.

 

[eddie48]

I guess that does make some sense. I use an Oregon raker guage that rests on top of several teeth at a time. I would think that variations in the depth guages and the height of the teeth -- they do get shorter in height as well as length-- would make the teeth bounce ever so slightly in the cut, not letting the short teeth dig in as much.

 

[motownbrowne]

I guess that does make some sense. I use an Oregon raker guage that rests on top of several teeth at a time. I would think that variations in the depth guages and the height of the teeth -- they do get shorter in height as well as length-- would make the teeth bounce ever so slightly in the cut, not letting the short teeth dig in as much.

Totally. A truly accurate raker setting is set only relative to the tooth behind the raker. Look up a Carlton File-o-plate to see how that works. If the gauge sets on top of multiple teeth, it won't be accurate if the teeth are different length.

 

[goeduck]

My understanding is that each tooth actually rocks back as it contacts the wood, and how much wood it takes per pass is only affected by the rakers (depth gauge) height. The tooth in front or behind it doesn't affect it.

I would think the chain would have to have some slack in it for the individual links to rock back? With as much power as these saws have and the pull in the cut I wonder. This might be a good question for arboristsite.

The comment eddie48 made about the links, therefore heights of the teeth and rakers, being different and reducing the efficiency of the saw chain is also a very good question.

 

[goeduck]

I use an Oregon bench grinder with a cbn-plated wheel which holds the profile shape consistently and with an air blast directed at the tooth I am grinding to keep it cool..

Is the air blast something you made? I have cbn wheels as well on my Oregon but no air blast.

 

[eddie48]

Yes, very simple design. Just taped a piece of 1/4 cu tubing lengthwise to the motor with a 1/4" tube attached. That goes to a small valve, that I happened to have laying around the shop and plug that into the airline. I just crack the valve a little bit to get a good airstream without blowing things all around. The cu tube lets me bend the end to point it directly at the tooth being sharpened. When I had my repair shop, and sharpened lots of chains, I found that cooling the wheel and tooth let me cut faster without burning and also made the wheel last much longer before I had to have it replated.

 

[eddie48]

Yes, very simple design. Just taped a piece of 1/4 cu tubing lengthwise to the motor with a 1/4" tube attached. That goes to a small valve, that I happened to have laying around the shop and plug that into the airline. I just crack the valve a little bit to get a good airstream without blowing things all around. The cu tube lets me bend the end to point it directly at the tooth being sharpened. When I had my repair shop, and sharpened lots of chains, I found that cooling the wheel and tooth let me cut faster without burning and also made the wheel last much longer before I had to have it replated.

 

[ericm979]

That's a neat idea.

 

[plowhog]

fyi Timberline chain saw sharpener is $20 off on Baileys.com right now ....

 

[dodge man]

A short story to share. My 23 year old son cut up quite a bit of wood for me, the chain was pretty sharp when he started. I told him keep the thing out of the dirt. I find I usually do a quick hand sharpening every tank or two of fuel. Well he probably went through 3 or 4 tanks of fuel or more. When I used it next it was still cutting great, nice sized chips. I thought for once in my life he listened. Of course half way through my first tank of fuel I got the thing in the dirt and hit a rock or something and dulled the crap out of it. Do as I say, not as I do!

 

[FTG-05]

I have an Oregon Model 110 electric bench chain grinder with a diamond wheel. I bought it used from a Stihl dealer going out of business. For several years, this is what I used to sharpen my chains. Pretty easy, except for having to remove the chain from the saw. But the bigger problem is I also bought a used MS-180 chainsaw from them as well. The diamond grinding wheel is too big for the -180.

Hence I bought one of these in the appropriate size:

It worked so well and was so easy to use, I bought one for my MS-362CM chainsaw. Now, I just run this file for a couple minutes during chainsawing breaks and haven't used the bench grinder in a year or so. I'm thinking of CLing it.

 

[kthompson]

I have the same saw also. I bought the Stihl sharping kit for mine. It includes a round file with a guide, a file for the rakers, and a gauge. You just set the gauge on the chain and if the rakers stick up to far, it shows up. I've filed mine a little bit over the years. Most of the time I sharpen mine by hand but I also have a dremmel style tool for when it gets really dull.

I second the Stihl sharping kit.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

I second the Stihl sharping kit.

I took the Stihl kit out a few weeks ago. Didn’t have a vice in the field which made using it awkward. I picked up one of the small vices you pound into a log or stump to hold the bar. Looking forward to the next excursion...

 

[FredH]

I use the Harbor Freight sharpener and have for years , Without any issue's . I use a chain for multiple cutting times , until I see shavings getting different or saw cutting changes , then change for a sharp chain . Unlike the way shops sharpen chains , I take the time to sharpen each tooth individually rather than set by the worst and grind rest off . Takes longer , maybe 20 minutes , but chain is precise and cuts like new . I run full skip chains , thus half the number of cutters . Not a pro by any means , Just cut my own wood . Mostly hardwood , oak and a pacific northwest wood called madrone or laurel . Usually , full skips are used in the woods on softwoods due to their faster cutting , I like using for same reason , although in hardwood .

Everyone has their own opinion and ways , No ones is more right or more wrong in my opinion , it is just what works for each person . And as I stated , I prefer full skip . They are not for people who cannot focus 100% on eactly what you are doing . A lot higher risk of kickback or pullin's using that type chain , but it is what I prefer . I run them on my 441 on either a 25" or a 28" bar .

Fred H.

 

[crazyal]

When I was a kid all I had was a file with one of those flat bars that the file slides into it and 10 cords of slab wood to cut up in the middle of summer with a Mini Mac. You quickly learn what makes your life easier to avoid a dull chain in 90f temps. Now I use a cordless variable speed Dremel. It can go into the woods with me in it's plastic case. I also use thread cutting oil that comes in a spray can for pipe on the teeth as I sharpen them. With the Dremel I can slow it down to avoid heating the teeth up and do a quick touch up or speed it up and repair damage from a rock. If you learn how to sharpen by hand it's easy to do but I wouldn't suggest starting off with a Dremel as you get the angles all wrong. The jigs to use with a hand file look nice but since switching to the Dremel I would never use it. I did buy one of those HF specials and used it on two teeth and threw it into the scrap pile. Too much work and the wheel was much corser than the Dremel. I only pull the chain when the bar needs cleaning so sharpening on the bar makes sense for me. Usually I go through a couple tanks between sharpenings as long as there's not too much dirt on the logs. If you get to a point where you are sharpening after each tank then chances are you overheated the blade lost the temper on the teeth. If your saw seams to start off cutting straight but by the end of the cut it's curved (making the face of the log look like a ski jump) chances are your bar needs to be replaced.