Saw Chain care and sharpening tips?

[goeduck]

I always thought the term "hand filing" meant a hand a file a chain, usually on the saw

True hand filing is just that, a file in your hand and the chain on the saw, nothing else. No Granberg, no Timberline, they are machines. They happen to be hand powered, but they are still machine guided, not true hand filing. I operate my Oregon bench grinder by hand, but that does not make it hand filing.

 

[eddie48]

I use an Oregon bench grinder with a cbn-plated wheel which holds the profile shape consistently and with an air blast directed at the tooth I am grinding to keep it cool. That gives me a very consistent and controllable sharpening of each tooth, keeping each one the same length and shape. I also hand sharpen when I need to in the woods. For those who have said that they hand sharpen the teeth at different lengths (depending on how much sharpening each needs) I would pose the following: If the tooth length varies, and you set the raker depth for each tooth, then don't you end up with a chain that is less efficient, since a long tooth with a corresponding high raker holds the saw a little higher than the next tooth which you have sharpened shorter and with a lower raker? Admittedly a small difference, but if you are looking for the most work from the chain...

 

[Deere Dude]

Sharpening the chain without taking the bar off seems like a great idea, but doesn't the bar need to be turned around now and then anyway?

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Yes it does, back in the shop.

 

[David Wayne]

Sharpening the chain without taking the bar off seems like a great idea, but doesn't the bar need to be turned around now and then anyway?

Yes, but not as often as the chain needs sharpened. I flip mine when the saw is in need of a good cleaning.

 

[motownbrowne]

I use an Oregon bench grinder with a cbn-plated wheel which holds the profile shape consistently and with an air blast directed at the tooth I am grinding to keep it cool. That gives me a very consistent and controllable sharpening of each tooth, keeping each one the same length and shape. I also hand sharpen when I need to in the woods. For those who have said that they hand sharpen the teeth at different lengths (depending on how much sharpening each needs) I would pose the following: If the tooth length varies, and you set the raker depth for each tooth, then don't you end up with a chain that is less efficient, since a long tooth with a corresponding high raker holds the saw a little higher than the next tooth which you have sharpened shorter and with a lower raker? Admittedly a small difference, but if you are looking for the most work from the chain...

My understanding is that each tooth actually rocks back as it contacts the wood, and how much wood it takes per pass is only affected by the rakers (depth gauge) height. The tooth in front or behind it doesn't affect it. I've heard of someone taking a new chain and grinding all the cutters on one side most of the way back, like it was an almost retired chain. Then they set the rakers at the right height and cut through a log. The chain cut just fine. Perhaps that's rural legend, but it makes sense to me.

 

[eddie48]

I guess that does make some sense. I use an Oregon raker guage that rests on top of several teeth at a time. I would think that variations in the depth guages and the height of the teeth -- they do get shorter in height as well as length-- would make the teeth bounce ever so slightly in the cut, not letting the short teeth dig in as much.

 

[motownbrowne]

I guess that does make some sense. I use an Oregon raker guage that rests on top of several teeth at a time. I would think that variations in the depth guages and the height of the teeth -- they do get shorter in height as well as length-- would make the teeth bounce ever so slightly in the cut, not letting the short teeth dig in as much.

Totally. A truly accurate raker setting is set only relative to the tooth behind the raker. Look up a Carlton File-o-plate to see how that works. If the gauge sets on top of multiple teeth, it won't be accurate if the teeth are different length.

 

[goeduck]

My understanding is that each tooth actually rocks back as it contacts the wood, and how much wood it takes per pass is only affected by the rakers (depth gauge) height. The tooth in front or behind it doesn't affect it.

I would think the chain would have to have some slack in it for the individual links to rock back? With as much power as these saws have and the pull in the cut I wonder. This might be a good question for arboristsite.

The comment eddie48 made about the links, therefore heights of the teeth and rakers, being different and reducing the efficiency of the saw chain is also a very good question.

 

[goeduck]

I use an Oregon bench grinder with a cbn-plated wheel which holds the profile shape consistently and with an air blast directed at the tooth I am grinding to keep it cool..

Is the air blast something you made? I have cbn wheels as well on my Oregon but no air blast.