New to welding

[Shield Arc]

I think I need to download the Shield Arc "app".

Remember now, I've only been welding for a few weeks!

 

[4570Man]

It really looks pretty good. Good enough if that's what you're after. I'd probably grind the metal first because it helps keep things clean. And your travel speed looks inconsistent.

 

[BMan2005]

It really looks pretty good. Good enough if that's what you're after. I'd probably grind the metal first because it helps keep things clean. And your travel speed looks inconsistent.

Appreciate that, yeah I want them to be good! So I'll hit the bench and keep working at it everytime time allows. Thanks for the advice as well, I'll see if I can work on that.

 

[BMan2005]

Not bad at all. It will take some time to get the perfect stack of dimes.
Little trick for you. When you get ready to stop, back up just a touch, and push the rod into the puddle some. This will help fill in the crater. An under filled crater is where a crack will start.

Good to know! I was pulling back just a hair at the end of each pass but I didn't push into the puddle, actually I was more less long arcing it a second. I'll give that a shot, thanks SA.

 

[frugalangler]

Little trick for you. When you get ready to stop, back up just a touch, and push the rod into the puddle some. This will help fill in the crater. An under filled crater is where a crack will start.

I was viewing a instructional video of TIG and the instructor demonstrating seemed to end with the tungsten stuck to the center of the crater after post-flow, and he'd have to wiggle slightly to release - I didn't pick up on that until you mentioned, is that because he might have been concentrating the arc and the puddle flowed into his tungsten at the end? I can't imagine an experienced demonstrator would mistakenly dip the tungsten EVERY time he end an arc.

 

[Shield Arc]

is that because he might have been concentrating the arc and the puddle flowed into his tungsten at the end?

I think he just screwed up. I've never stuck the tungsten!

 

[BMan2005]

On 3/8" steel with 1/8 rod isn't it good to make a couple passes on a lap or fillet weld? If so since I'm learning 6011 can you do several stacked passes with it for something your repair or building?

 

[Shield Arc]

If so since I'm learning 6011 can you do several stacked passes with it for something your repair or building?

Yes you can.
In the 1970s I worked in a fab shop. Our number 1 contract was building nuclear waste tanks. The lifting ring, was 4-inch X 8-inch flatbar rolled to 8-feet in diameter. We had to make a 1 7/8-inch fillet weld top, and bottom of the lifting ring. I don't think there is a limit to how much you can stack welds!

This pictures is a 3-pass fillet weld, with Mig.

 

[BMan2005]

Guess I was meaning with 6011 for stacking on top of one another on multi pass situations. I know usually 7018 is what I see stacked.

 

[Shield Arc]

Here is a 6010 fillet weld. Stacked on top of each other. Pipe welders stack 6010 when welding pipe.

 

[BMan2005]

Good to know SA. I stacked some tonight after I did my first pass on all my coupons I cut for Fillet & Lap welds tonight. Be nice to just get a huge bucket of those from somewhere, lol.

Here's my last two welds of each way. I think these look better than last night's but rather hear it from y'all.?

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh, those look really good! You catch on very fast! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

If you're going to run a lot of 6011, or 6010. A wire wheel on a small grinder really cleans the slag off nice.

 

[BMan2005]

Appreciate the heads up, it's a bear trying to really clean these.

I'll keep working on this a bit to get more consistent then what next, vertical uphill with the same lap & fillet weld?

 

[Shield Arc]

what next, vertical uphill with the same lap & fillet weld?

That's what I would do. When going vertical up hill in a V-groove. With 6010, or 6011 I run a U motion, same with a fillet weld. Now when running vertical up hill on a lap joint. I run a J motion. I run the long part of the J on the flat plate. And let the curl of the J onto the thinner plate. Just a suggestion for you to try. You have to find what works best for you.

 

[BMan2005]

Sharing a set of disk harrows I repaired over the weekend that go on our 32hp Kubota. Friend repaired it a few yes ago and the weld cracked down the center. Cut all the old weld out and grinded back smooth. The plate was bent slightly and didn't fit exactly smooth so I beveled the back side where it wasn't sitting flush and filled in with 6011 for about 1". Also the reason I put multiple welds stacked and spread out so maybe it'll hold the pressure now being only about a 500lbs set of disk. Not the prettiest by far, but I think I'm getting better. More practice more practice!

Also repaired a brace in the frame of the harrows, that one was flat and easy! Wish everything could be flat.

 

[KubotainNH]

Looks good from here. Nice improvement!

 

[BMan2005]

Thanks man

 

[BMan2005]

Next project is building support for the inside of the front 3pt hitch on my 9ft Taylor way disk harrows. Original owner had already repaired it in a way but his repair cracked and spread to the 1" 3pt arm. Going to weld 3 3/8x2" pieces of flat stock for the center tonight I hope I can finish that part. Here's where I made it so far, run a root pass with 6011 and finish up with 7014 for a cap to grind smooth. I could have done it all with 1 rod but I wanted to work with both especially to get more familiar with 6011. Metal surface will will be clean before next pass with 7014.

Added in the wire cup brush just for you Shield Arc, thanks for the recommendation!

 

[Shield Arc]

Man oh man, that last picture of the weld with the cup brush beside it. You are doing great!:thumbsup::thumbsup: What a fast learner you are! :cool2::cool2::cool2: