Chain sharpening difference?

[2manyrocks]

How used are your sharpening files? The files in my Pferd were getting dull. Just changed them out for new ones, and the results are so much bettter.

 

[BlueKnife]

I’ll update this thread. To recap my MS250 chain always seems sharper than my MS261. I used the MS261 a couple of days ago and it was cutting so-so and then it started curving as it cut. My normal sharpening technique is about 2 passes per tooth. I did 5 this time, it cut great then.

My conclusion is I use the 261 on larger wood that also in this case was a little dirty. It also has a larger fuel tank so it cuts longer on a tank. I just need to sharpen it more often when I notice it cutting poorly. Not exactly earth shattering news to anyone but I initially thought one saw was cutting better for some other reason. Sometimes I also notice it will be throwing good chips but some saw dust mixed in. I assume that just means some of the teeth are dull.

Cutting a curve can be caused by an unevenly sharpened chain, a bent bar, or spread guide rails. You should not be waiting till the saw is "cutting poorly" to sharpen it. Your description of the saw sometimes throwing chips and sometimes sawdust is often indicative of spread or worn guide rails. Did you try swapping the bars?

 

[Rockbadchild]

Cutting a curve can be caused by an unevenly sharpened chain, a bent bar, or spread guide rails. You should not be waiting till the saw is "cutting poorly" to sharpen it. Your description of the saw sometimes throwing chips and sometimes sawdust is often indicative of spread or worn guide rails. Did you try swapping the bars?

I would like to add uneven raker depth in proportion to the cutting teeth.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I sharpen my chain only when I need too, when I feel like it's starting to loose its edge then I will do it but during the winter when I don't hit anything I can go days without sharping it.

Hand sharping is a superior sharping then girder if you can be consistent with hand sharping. The locals with forestry feller with the chainsaw style bars much ratter hand filing their chain then grinding it as it last longer.

 

[Skeans1]

I’ll update this thread. To recap my MS250 chain always seems sharper than my MS261. I used the MS261 a couple of days ago and it was cutting so-so and then it started curving as it cut. My normal sharpening technique is about 2 passes per tooth. I did 5 this time, it cut great then.

My conclusion is I use the 261 on larger wood that also in this case was a little dirty. It also has a larger fuel tank so it cuts longer on a tank. I just need to sharpen it more often when I notice it cutting poorly. Not exactly earth shattering news to anyone but I initially thought one saw was cutting better for some other reason. Sometimes I also notice it will be throwing good chips but some saw dust mixed in. I assume that just means some of the teeth are dull.

Got a picture of the cutters?

 

[dodge man]

How used are your sharpening files? The files in my Pferd were getting dull. Just changed them out for new ones, and the results are so much bettter.

I think they’re good. I bought a package of new ones a few years ago.

 

[dodge man]

Got a picture of the cutters?

I’ll get one. I appreciate everyone’s answers. Self criticism can be tough. My initial reaction I’m sharpening the chain correctly but I wouldn’t be posting here if that was 100% true.

 

[Rockbadchild]

How used are your sharpening files? The files in my Pferd were getting dull. Just changed them out for new ones, and the results are so much bettter.

Good point many folks use their files way too long, you can see and feel it, one can replace them after as little as 10 filing and as much as 30.

 

[RandyT]

I sharpen my chain only when I need too, when I feel like it's starting to loose its edge then I will do it but during the winter when I don't hit anything I can go days without sharping it.

Hand sharping is a superior sharping then girder if you can be consistent with hand sharping. The locals with forestry feller with the chainsaw style bars much ratter hand filing their chain then grinding it as it last longer.

Then somebody doesn't know how to set up the grinder properly.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Then somebody doesn't know how to set up the grinder properly.

There's always a certain level of heat generated with a grinder, grinder can create micro fractures and dose create a rounder edge where hand filling there is none of these.

 

[dodge man]

Here are a couple of pictures. I sharpened it a few days ago before I put it away.

 

[2manyrocks]

Those gullets don't look to have the right profile and rakers seem a bit tall to my eye.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I don't like these round edges tooth chain, I much rather the square tooth chain... round tooth are good when working in dirty stuff and are easier to sharpen but doesn't bite nearly as much.

 

[airbiscuit]

Buy a chisel chain and do a comparison test. Then you'll go out and buy a second chisel chain

 

[dodge man]

I see what you mean about the gullets, I’m letting the file ride to low. I can actually see things better in the photo than I can with my eyes.

I actually think if I took the saw out with the chain like it shows in the pictures it would cut well but that doesn’t make it right either.

 

[John_Mc]

I see what you mean about the gullets, I’m letting the file ride to low. I can actually see things better in the photo than I can with my eyes.

It looks to me as though you are letting the file ride too highand/or might not be using the correct file size. Your side plate should have a bit more of a "C" shape than is apparent in those pictures. It could just be the angle from which your picture was taken. I'd suggest comparing the profile of your chain to a new one.

What pitch chain are you using, and what size file? Are you using any sort of guide when sharpening or setting the depth gauges?

@dodge man - you mentioned that your normal practice is 2 passes per tooth. When sharpening, it's important to go until the tooth is actually sharp, not just a set number of strokes of the file.

One of the best videos I've seen on sharpening a chain is this one: The Art and Science of Chain Sharpening
Unfortunately, you have to pay to see it. (And no, I have no financial connection and don't get a piece of the cut.)

 

[JeepHead]

I really like the Stihl two in one files because the hit the tooth and the raker at the same time. They are a bit pricey but the files are replaceable.

Amazon.com

 

[dodge man]

I’m pretty sure I’m using the correct file size. I can check though. I’ve got a brand new chain I can look at. I get decent results after I sharpen but I suspect I’m not doing it a 100% correct, I can do better. A picture of what I use to sharpen with.

 

[2manyrocks]

I also wonder if you need a larger file to sharpen the full gullet? I like the two in one files.

 

[Skeans1]

Stock vs ground there’s a huge difference in speed and how much more wood is being removed if the saw can actually pull that chip load out. Yes a stock chain needs the rakers dropped to even be considered decent for falling timber. It’s not super common to see any round ground cutters for falling other then harvester application one reason is speed as well smoothness in the cut.