airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
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- 7,589
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- NW Wisconsin
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- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Is that a chainsaw, or you just happy to see me 
JeepHead
Veteran Member
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- Jul 13, 2023
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- Location
- The hills of Southern Indiana
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- Kubota 2502H, HSI Pinnacle grapple, LP 48" forks, LP 60" BB, KK tiller 60", KK middle buster, Pat's QH
I have an electric bench top chain grinder but prefer to do all my chains by hand.
murphy1244
Super Star Member
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- Nov 25, 2011
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- 19,512
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- Ohio
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- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
But not consistent.
RobertN
Super Member
I use the little Stihl and Oregon guides that clip on the file. But even after years of various mechanical work. I still am not consistent from one side of the chain to the other.
Every 3rd or so sharpening, I use one of the Oregon jigs that clamps on the bar. It's still manual sharpening, but I get both sides of the chain sharp consistently.
Every 3rd or so sharpening, I use one of the Oregon jigs that clamps on the bar. It's still manual sharpening, but I get both sides of the chain sharp consistently.
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 7,589
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
I have the dealer sharpen after about 5 hand filings. This has been my file guide journey.
Touched up the chain, but pretty inconsistent by angle and side to side
Not much better
Improved angle and side to side consistency, but funky to use
Worked great! Roller helps keep angle consistent
My favorite so far! Part of it is Pferd files are great, built in depth guide and rakers get filed at the same time.
Touched up the chain, but pretty inconsistent by angle and side to side
Not much better
Improved angle and side to side consistency, but funky to use
Worked great! Roller helps keep angle consistent
My favorite so far! Part of it is Pferd files are great, built in depth guide and rakers get filed at the same time.
HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
How do you know? It is more consistent than a file any day of the week. It's a freaking chainsaw chain, not a pair of convex hair shears.
dadohead
Platinum Member
I served a wood patternmaker apprenticeship at Caterpillar in another life. Sometimes wondering over to the metal side of the shop, the journeymen would really watch a wood guy ;<) and offer help! "Everyone strokes a hack saw and file too fast!" they'd say.
I think of those guys all the time when I file a chain. If I get just a little too fast... it skates. Slow the stroke and you'll hear/feel it chooching better. Easier to keep both sides of the chain consistent too.
I think of those guys all the time when I file a chain. If I get just a little too fast... it skates. Slow the stroke and you'll hear/feel it chooching better. Easier to keep both sides of the chain consistent too.
Last edited:
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,516
I get good results with the Pferd. Also have the Oregon electric grinder with a CBD wheel which also puts a good edge on the chain. But for convenience and on the spot sharpening, I use the Pferd quite a bit.
Swap the bars and chains and see if the problem follows. It's possible you've got a bowed bar or that the guide rails are spread a bit. Also, throw the green label chains in the garbage and get yellow label.
OP
dodge man
Super Star Member
Both of my saws have 18” bars but the MS261 must have a slightly taller bar because the chain has more teeth.
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
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- 7,589
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- NW Wisconsin
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- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Swap both the bar and chain
What used to drive me nuts when we were sharing files is people who apply pressure on the back stroke. All they accomplish is to dull the file faster.
Doesn't matter, as long as the pitch is the same.
OP
dodge man
Super Star Member
I get it now, I guess the bar is different between the MS250 and the MS 261 but if you swap both the bar and chain they would work.
Correct. You'll need to verify, of course, but more than likely they both have .325 pitch sprockets.
OP
dodge man
Super Star Member
They do.
OP
dodge man
Super Star Member
I’ll update this thread. To recap my MS250 chain always seems sharper than my MS261. I used the MS261 a couple of days ago and it was cutting so-so and then it started curving as it cut. My normal sharpening technique is about 2 passes per tooth. I did 5 this time, it cut great then.
My conclusion is I use the 261 on larger wood that also in this case was a little dirty. It also has a larger fuel tank so it cuts longer on a tank. I just need to sharpen it more often when I notice it cutting poorly. Not exactly earth shattering news to anyone but I initially thought one saw was cutting better for some other reason. Sometimes I also notice it will be throwing good chips but some saw dust mixed in. I assume that just means some of the teeth are dull.
My conclusion is I use the 261 on larger wood that also in this case was a little dirty. It also has a larger fuel tank so it cuts longer on a tank. I just need to sharpen it more often when I notice it cutting poorly. Not exactly earth shattering news to anyone but I initially thought one saw was cutting better for some other reason. Sometimes I also notice it will be throwing good chips but some saw dust mixed in. I assume that just means some of the teeth are dull.
