12x16 Shed Sitting on Blocks Needs Attention

[DaBear3428]

i would get some large long eye bolts (8) drill thru the floor joists from one side to the other at the corners, place the eye bolts with the eyes inside then attach galvanized cables to the eyes from one side to the other (4 times). place large plate with holes to act as large washers on the outside, run the bolt end of the eyebolts thru from the inside then use large nuts to put tension on the cables pulling the joists back together. in the future you can tighten the bolts if needed.

after you completed that task the building should be stable enough to do what ever you want to replace the blocks including leaving them as is once you stop the spread of the wood frame.

 

[Hexa Fox]

i would get some large long eye bolts (8) drill thru the floor joists from one side to the other at the corners, place the eye bolts with the eyes inside then attach galvanized cables to the eyes from one side to the other (4 times). place large plate with holes to act as large washers on the outside, run the bolt end of the eyebolts thru from the inside then use large nuts to put tension on the cables pulling the joists back together. in the future you can tighten the bolts if needed.

after you completed that task the building should be stable enough to do what ever you want to replace the blocks including leaving them as is once you stop the spread of the wood frame.

Hey seriously thank you guys. Especially the last three from DaBear3428, ddbackhoe and JPRambo. I am going to try one of these ideas. I especially like this eyelet idea.

So basically you are saying to add two eyebolts at each corner of the building on the under/inner side? Then place the largest washers I can find on the outside of the building, then crank a nut down so they can support the pressure?

So my main questions would be:

1.) What gauge cable should I be looking for?

2.) How do I tighten and crank the cable to pull the structure back?

3.) If you were me and doing this would you lift the building or no?

Regardless I am going to try to get as much out as possible, whatever I do I believe less weight will make it more persuadable.

I have never heard of these Simpsons Strongtie bracket connectors either. They seem like if I could get the structure back they would solve my issue, especially on all sides. The back side I am less worried about because it is only inches off the ground, it is touching the ground in some areas so more worried about rot. I guess doing it on all four sides can only strengthen it.

 

[2manyrocks]

Not having seen this in person, I'm wondering if the building is splaying out because it's overloaded or whether it is so not level that the out of level condition is putting more stress on it.

Do you have an idea how far up it has to go to be made level?

 

[m1garand762]

My neighbor just had an on shed moved and re set on a new foundation by the local shed dealer the guy brought his machine out set new blocks and moved it for $350

 

[DaBear3428]

Hey seriously thank you guys. Especially the last three from DaBear3428, ddbackhoe and JPRambo. I am going to try one of these ideas. I especially like this eyelet idea.

So basically you are saying to add two eyebolts at each corner of the building on the under/inner side? Then place the largest washers I can find on the outside of the building, then crank a nut down so they can support the pressure?

So my main questions would be:

1.) What gauge cable should I be looking for?

2.) How do I tighten and crank the cable to pull the structure back?

3.) If you were me and doing this would you lift the building or no?

Regardless I am going to try to get as much out as possible, whatever I do I believe less weight will make it more persuadable.

I have never heard of these Simpsons Strongtie bracket connectors either. They seem like if I could get the structure back they would solve my issue, especially on all sides. The back side I am less worried about because it is only inches off the ground, it is touching the ground in some areas so more worried about rot. I guess doing it on all four sides can only strengthen it.

1. i would double the cable thru the eyes so you will not need that large of a cable. just run the cable double and then use cable clamps to secure it.

2. with the long eyebolts 10" or so you can just get the slack out of the cable and then have 20" or so on tensioning (10" front and back). just use a pipe wrench to hold the bolt while you tighten the nut. or stick a long screwdriver thru the eye to keep it from turning.

3. I would try not to lift the building until i had the base secure but you may need to in order to get the cable in.

 

[rScotty]

Raising houses and setting them back down on a better foundation is done all the time. The tricky part seems to be getting it loose from the old foundation and up an inch or two. Go slow and inch or less at a time all the way around. Spread the load out with steel angle to start, then 4x6 and then finally beams if going up a foot or more Do use screw jacks, not bottle jacks. Cheaper and better. I'd say at each corner and two on each long side plus maybe one on each end.

That ought to be enough info for you to see what it would cost. Then ask someone who does that work what they would charge.

A basic backhoe or loader does not have enough reach for the wire and eyebolt idea.

 

[Hexa Fox]

Not having seen this in person, I'm wondering if the building is splaying out because it's overloaded or whether it is so not level that the out of level condition is putting more stress on it.

Do you have an idea how far up it has to go to be made level?

So I am not sure, this was my fathers doing and he took care of it. I know he did check if it was level once and awhile. It is possible that it is overloaded. I have a commercial Ferris IS2100z in there that weighs around 1,200lbs. There is a tool box, snow blower, push mowers, garden tools, pool equipment and various other stuff in the building. There is also a couple pieces of furniture up in the loft area. My father recently passed away so it has become my problem.

I loved my father but he had a definite problem getting rid of anything. Fortunately, I have began to break away from this and slowly been parting with things. Anyway this is a problem that I have to solve this season. I would like to have a slab of concrete poured and have someone move the building directly to the slab. The problem I have is the only person that has come to look at it so far has the same fear I do, which is if we try to pull it onto a truck or something it is going to collapse.

 

[DaBear3428]

So I am not sure, this was my fathers doing and he took care of it. I know he did check if it was level once and awhile. It is possible that it is overloaded. I have a commercial Ferris IS2100z in there that weighs around 1,200lbs. There is a tool box, snow blower, push mowers, garden tools, pool equipment and various other stuff in the building. There is also a couple pieces of furniture up in the loft area. My father recently passed away so it has become my problem.

I loved my father but he had a definite problem getting rid of anything. Fortunately, I have began to break away from this and slowly been parting with things. Anyway this is a problem that I have to solve this season. I would like to have a slab of concrete poured and have someone move the building directly to the slab. The problem I have is the only person that has come to look at it so far has the same fear I do, which is if we try to pull it onto a truck or something it is going to collapse.

fix your problem with the subfloor then jack it up with 6x6s under it then back a trailer under it and move it where you want, it will be stable (foundation wise) if the walls are an issue you can cross brace the walls (if needed). after you have lifted it up and put runners under it (6x6s) you will get an idea of how stable it is. the distance you are moving it and the terrain you are moving it across will affect the decision. no reason you cannot move it as long as it is in good condition.

 

[rScotty]

Not having seen this in person, I'm wondering if the building is splaying out because it's overloaded or whether it is so not level that the out of level condition is putting more stress on it.

Do you have an idea how far up it has to go to be made level?

There's the problem. The whole thing was made to sit on concrete blocks at the corners supported by the skirting. That type of construction is easier than a normal doubled perimeter frame fastened with blocks in the corners - but doesn't last long. It simply does exactly what you are seeing happen. The skirting splays out. Even worse it it is nailed and not screwed. I'm guessing he never did expect it to have to support much more than its own weight. But even so....
The good news it it looks worth saving. & you can do so. I would NOT try to move it as is.

What I'd do is right now get a corner kit from HD or Amazon, and brace the corners with some corner braces. Use at least 6" legs, and 10" is better. Lag screw the braces to the existing skirting. Don't even try to move it or pull it back together beforehand, just spend $45 to keep it from getting worse. Then once the corners are stabilized, you can slide some 4x6 beams under it and lift if a few inches with jacks and get it level. At that point you can make yourself good concrete perimeter foundation with some rebar in it - poured concrete is best, but even a line of blocks level and completely around the foundation would be better than what you have now. I'd be doing one wall at a time until all 4 are done....Or you can try most of the other suggestions everyone has given you with a better chance of success. But my judgement is you need to bet those corners stabilized soonest.

Steel corner kits aren't the only way to stabilize a skirt, just the quickest cheapest. You still want to make it sit right on a good foundation like I and just about everyone else is saying.

rScotty

 

[etpm]

With the type of loads you are putting in the shed it seems like it is probably built strong enough to save. I have no idea what is underneath it and so don't know what kind of construction it is. But if it is only supported at the corners or the perimeter with no support in the center then it is certainly worth saving. Take the advice of others here and fix the corners where they are coming apart. Bring the building back to square. Then the building can be lifted and pier blocks can be slid underneath to support the center. For not much money you can buy pier jacks. These consist of a threaded rod welded to a platform. The platform can be a flat plate or can L shaped or square U shaped. The shapes are for what you are supporting. For example, I built a deck for a hot tub and used 4x4* lumber for the deck joists. I used pier blocks with pier jacks having the square U shape platform that fit the 4x4* deck joists. Anyway, after fixing the corners and bringing the building back to square and structural soundness you can lift one end or side and slide pier blocks with pier jacks under the floor joists. You can then use a wrench to turn the nuts on the pier jacks to level the structure. Use as many pier blocks as you think you need. They are cheap.
I know, I shoulda used 2x6 lumber instead of 4x4, but I had my reasons.
Eric