12x16 Shed Sitting on Blocks Needs Attention

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I have a shed just like that,been in Wisconsin for 33 winters, moves every year with the frost but is 2x8 treated all around. I can lift it just fine with a jack under any of the sides but it is almost empty in the middle. Level it out and fix corners, add support under 16 foot sides as well, put more work into this if you want but mine has to be considered temporary so no foundation, just blocks and spacer plates, treated lumber for spacer plates.

Pretty much what he said ;- ) Depending on what framing you have underneath it, put some bracing under corner and start jacking it up, won't know until you try. Some of these building that look so solid and heavy will lift right up. Slow and easy, see what happens.

 

[tjandrews]

Oh, I forgot to mention this. In Island County WA, which is where I live, a structure is not considered permanent if it is less than 200 square feet and so no building permit is needed. So if I build a shed and put it on pier blocks and don't provide a permanent power connection I don't need a permit. If the shed is on a poured foundation it is considered permanent. If I need lights in the shed I must use an extension cord. I don't know what your county or state requires but the shed your dad built may have been done the way it was because he couldn't wait for a permit. So if you pour a slab or a foundation it may require a permit. Putting the shed on pier blocks is fine from a structural standpoint, you don't need a poured foundation for structural soundness. And pier blocks are way cheaper than a poured foundation or slab.
Eric

The rules are much the same in my township in Central New York. We made a deal with a dealer of Amish-built sheds some seven years ago to get a 10x12 shed for "free" if we allowed him to put a sign on it advertising his business to the patrons of our farm stand. Because it's on skids and is just sitting on top of crushed stone, it's considered temporary and the town assessor wasn't interested in it. But, if we ever put in some kind of foundation and fasten the shed to it, that status will change.
I'd advise the OP to check with the rules of his municipality before doing anything that might jeopardize the shed's current status.

 

[ddsrph]

Hey guys,

I was hoping you gentlemen could help me out with a conundrum I am in. So about twenty years ago my father and uncle built a shed, my father tried to get a permit and they turned him down and said he would have to wait. Long story short he couldn't wait because my uncle was here and they were ready to build it. So now I am stuck in this situation with this building sitting up on blocks. The problem is that the building has started 'slipping' off the blocks in the front. The boards are starting to splinter and I obviously need to do something.

I use this building for my equipment like my Ferris that I use to mow. Anyway I am limited on what I can do and was hoping you guys could give me some advice. I have talked to people about putting a slab of concrete down and moving it to the slab. However, the guy I talked to yesterday said there would be a good chance of it collapsing while trying to move it. It is also on 2x6 runners which complicates things further. So I run my Ferris in and out of this building all the time and we are getting close to mowing again so I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

1.) I was thinking about finding a neighbor with a large tractor and having them lift this side of the building putting a 4x4 or 6x4 post behind this area and driving lags or something in it to pull the structure back together.

2.) I was also thinking I may be able to accomplish this with a high lift jack or bottle jack. I have seen more people use bottle jacks so let me know if you guys have recommendations there.

3.) I have a guy that said he may be able to get it on his truck and move it to a slab of concrete that I have not decided on yet. I have also thought about looking for a guy with a mule which is a piece of equipment built for this.

Anyway before this get too crazy I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

I would buy two 6 by 6 pressure treaded posts 14 or 16 foot long plus a few regular cement blocks and a few 4 inch solid cement blocks. Using Four bottle jacks and a sufficient number and combination of the blocks jack the building up a few inches above its current position. The four jack points will be on the 6 by 6 posts that are placed under the building at right angles to the floor joist. Once jacked up place some concrete blocks and maybe small wooden blocks to level out and hold in place as the bottle jacks will not hold pressure very long. Now with the building about 6 inches above its present height dig and pour footers at least at the four corners and maybe four more, one in center of each of the four sides. Now set concrete block to become the permanent supports. If possible fill these blocks with concrete and add some j bolts.

 

[NEEDAMAN]

I have performed this several times for customers. Use bottle jacks with boards under the base to prevent sinking. Run boards across trusses diagonal for more strength and stability. Jack and level. Place additional pillars of solid block. Without viewing the building I cannot advise on moving the structure.

 

[Bob Gibson]

Call a local house mover, they can safely jack this building up, repair the spreaded rim joists/corners, and set it back down correctly (I wouldn't put pier blocks under the middle of the floor because there is more weight on the edges of the building and later you might end up with a bowed up floor in the center), I would pour a slab and locate the building on it where it is evenly supported throughout the floor. The house mover most likely can lift the building high enough to allow for a slab to be poured and then set the building down directly without moving the location if that is what you desire, or they could move the building over a slab and set it down. Depending upon your building location, you may or may not need a permit, the house mover would know.

 

[jlsteiner]

Were it my sHed, First I would tear out the floor. Dig down 4 places for a jack, jack it up and pour or have someone pour what we call a floating slab under it. 8" thick concrete with some rebar in it, Let it float with the frost. Otherwise, need to move the shed to the new floor on the foundation deep enough to get below the frost line. But for what you are putting in it I would definitely put in a concrete floor.,

 

[tipoblanco]

Hey guys,

I was hoping you gentlemen could help me out with a conundrum I am in. So about twenty years ago my father and uncle built a shed, my father tried to get a permit and they turned him down and said he would have to wait. Long story short he couldn't wait because my uncle was here and they were ready to build it. So now I am stuck in this situation with this building sitting up on blocks. The problem is that the building has started 'slipping' off the blocks in the front. The boards are starting to splinter and I obviously need to do something.

I use this building for my equipment like my Ferris that I use to mow. Anyway I am limited on what I can do and was hoping you guys could give me some advice. I have talked to people about putting a slab of concrete down and moving it to the slab. However, the guy I talked to yesterday said there would be a good chance of it collapsing while trying to move it. It is also on 2x6 runners which complicates things further. So I run my Ferris in and out of this building all the time and we are getting close to mowing again so I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

1.) I was thinking about finding a neighbor with a large tractor and having them lift this side of the building putting a 4x4 or 6x4 post behind this area and driving lags or something in it to pull the structure back together.

2.) I was also thinking I may be able to accomplish this with a high lift jack or bottle jack. I have seen more people use bottle jacks so let me know if you guys have recommendations there.

3.) I have a guy that said he may be able to get it on his truck and move it to a slab of concrete that I have not decided on yet. I have also thought about looking for a guy with a mule which is a piece of equipment built for this.

Anyway before this get too crazy I would love to hear your guys thoughts.

Why not run a 4x6 under the skids from side to side since the skids are supporting the floor frame to support the structure and then fix the corners

 

[sunandsand]

Several considerations here . . .

Building inspector - what they don't know won't hurt you. You are repairing a small, existing structure. A lot depends on the attitude of your building inspector and tax assessor. If you get a permit, that will alert the assessor that something has changed, and they'll come say hello.

If the building inspector is a retired East German border guard and the assessor is his even more evil twin brother, I'd do the repairs on a weekend because they don't work then. I think I'd also take a look at code (online, where you are anonymous) and see what the maximum size of a building can be before a permit is required. 12 by 16 is 192 sf, if the permit requirement kicks in at 200 sf+, go have a good time. If it is less than that (your building is required to have a permit), think about fixing it on weekends, especially holiday weekends because you get an extra day to do the work quietly.

We happen to be exceptionally lucky in this regard. Our building inspector tells you how you can do something, not why you can't. I built a 4,500 sf hangar, he said "It's a BARN, right? Hangars can't be more than 2,500 sf, you built a BARN, right?" "Umm, yeah, you know, you're right, it IS a barn!" (Our maximum size here for no permit is 100 sf unless it is an agricultural structure.)

As to your building itself, after you have successfully avoided any "Imperial entanglements", the idea of carefully jacking up the corner after reinforcing it and then lowering it carefully onto a proper foundation sounds like a good approach. This isn't rocket science. If you think it through and ask for help and advice (as in this group ;-) I think you'll do fine.

One thing you might want to consider is buying a 20 foot shipping container and replacing the wood building entirely. You're in WV so I don't think the termite problem is too bad, here in FL, invasive Formosan termites would eat that building in one summer as an appetizer and then start on your house.

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida

 

[Mudfarmer]

Don't complicate things. Your goal isn't to look good it's to keep a roof over you equipment. Jack it up if you must. In any case dig a shallow hole beside each corner, go out to the wood-lot (or lumber store) and get a 4X4 to 6x6 post and above-ground brackets. Dig broad shallow holes adjacent to each corner. Attach the brackets to the new posts, then upright them next to the old corners with the bracket resting on the bottom of the hole. Spike or bolt the post and the corner together. The old construction will hold the new post in place while you put a couple of bags of ready-mix concrete in the hole. Done. Not pretty, but will last another 20 years at least. Been there, done this.
MF

 

[dmottv]

We moved a 10x12 shed recently. Moved everything out, jacked up each side with bottle jacks and/or automotive floor jack and slid 4x6x16 sliders under (on the flat and perpendicular to the floor joists, in about 6”-8” from each edge), also slid one under the middle for extra support.

We screw cleated a 2x8 board across the front and back of the 4x6’s to block the shed from shifting while being moved.

We then laid 2x8s on the ground across and under the 4x6s every 4-6’ to keep the 4x6 sliders from digging into the ground. We used a small 5 ton excavator to slide the shed about 125’ to it’s new location, jacked each corner up to level, blocked it and set it down leaving the 4x6 sliders as added support for future use.

The shed was easily moved with the small excavator. We did cut four small holes through the floor inside near each corner and ran chain down through and around the joists to hook to the excavator.

I’ve seen cables with turnbuckles strung diagonally from floor to roof to firm and reasonably true up old barn structures to add years of life. It seems like a cost effective method.

The 10x12 (120 sf) no permit required is referenced in the International Building Code which many communities base building permits on.