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I’ve had both tractors and same problem. Check the appropriate fuses. Good luck, every time same problem happened to me it was a fuse.

Wow, I have a Tc40da and have never heard of changing the PS filter. I didn’t even know there was one!

BRILLIANT!!

Yes, my wallenstein fx85 pulls 8,500 lbs but it takes time to attach. I’m thinking more of quick always there solution like the winch on a Land Rover or jeep wrangler.

Absolutely LOVE this! Wow, u should patent a bolt on version. I’d buy one in a heartbeat. Congratulations on such a brilliant build. Truly one of the coolest things I’ve seen done to maximize performance and afford great versatility. Wow.

I may do this to my 1920 as it has a perfect mounting bracket in front. Your setup is great, just what I wanted to do!

Good God, that is a scary thought. Sheeeesh! Tx, Danica

Awesome job! Thanks for ur response it is very helpful and confirms I’m not totally crazy!

Thank you! Didn’t consider the elec factor but yeah, if there was a hydraulic one plumbing it wouldn’t be hard. Tx, Danica

Last year my Tc40da did the following philanthropic tasks for neighbors: * pulled out a riding lawnmower * backhoed graves for 3 big dogs who’d passed * cleared a 100’ pine that fell over blocking river access for kayakers * put in 50 8’ fence posts for elderly neighbor * box bladed 4 driveways...

It occurred to me recently there are situations wherein the time associated with attaching my fx85 winch to my tractor to pull out a log or other object makes me just forget the job. Ditto getting chain or wire rope and attaching to back of tractor and pulling. What about a Warn or other brand...

Hmm, while we have a zillion tools, I don’t have anything to measure Db. I wonder it there’s an app for that ;)

From ur pics it’s looks like a long shot but I may just call a dealer and see if they have any ideas. Clearly, porting it down like on the TCs has advantages including thee off chance disaster when the muffler cap accidentally gets stuck in the up position and it rains. Never happened but did...

I use the foam one AND a $300 pair of head phone type protectors and ears still ring for three days after mowing for a few hours at 2500rpm.

Looks like HK for Hekler & Koch guns?

That actually makes sense and is essentially what NH did with the TC series. I will investigate. Thanks.

Brand new. That was the first thing I thought besides the gasket between exhaust and muffler which is also new…

If none of these suggestions work maybe check the fuel. If he leaves it out for months in hot weather with half a tank of fuel it is amazing how fast things can go bad esp if it is really humid.

Replace pins with bolts and just loosen when u want to fold it down (my NH has pins at the hinge point). Just a thought.

Lots on Amazon. Just search ‘ford 1920 seat’

Compared to my Tc40da my 1920 which has roughly the same engine (I think both are Shibs) the 1920 sounds like a Boeing 747. I mean even with ear plugs and headphones my ears were ringing for three days after brush hogging 4 acres. I’ve replaced the muffler to no avail. Clearly the exhaust on...

I have *never* been showed an ad on TBN ever, of any sort. Must be your browser.

Thanks all. Time to pull blades and go to grinder.

My fields over the years have gone from really nasty with little trees and big thick weeds to a nice grassy meadow. The brush hog I’ve been using for the past 13 years doesn’t cut grass really nicely. Does anyone make a finish cutter blad for a brush hog? I do have a 6’ 903B NH finish cutter but...

Engine displacement (size) and hp? Looks gorgeous!

You were right, the depth was more like 0.2mm and when stoned down sort of filled itself. Of course the damage has been done to the various internal o-rings but at least it doesn’t further aggravate the situation every time I drop the feet and retract them. Thanks again!

PS, “stones”? Like on a grinder but shaped as a block?

Thanks for the response, your method is very similar to what is described on YouTube and I will proceed on the first warm day we get up here in the Catskills (which technically is today at 70 degrees). Will print these responses out and know that the addition of wd40 is good. I think I will be...

Thank you I agree and will go that route!

Hi, recently while lowering the two stabilizer legs on my 758c (on a 40DA) I scratched the chrome inner cylinder. This in turn did some minor rings to the internal o-rings and now the leak down on one side is pretty annoying. I saw a guy on YouTube repair a similarly damaged cylinder by slowly...

Mine (2005) has the spring but honestly the o ring and pressure keep it pressed to the top. I didn’t even notice the spring fell out when I fist changed fuel filter and it is NOT shown in the user manual. Only a TBN member told me where it went

Does anyone know how/where to dispose of about 30 gallons of contaminated diesel fuel? In NY the place that takes used motor oil won’t take diesel. Is there an environmentall friendly way to burn it in a pit fire, for example (that actually sounds a bit dicey).

Will do by editing original post. Thx for idea

Wow! Good for you! But seriously did you buy these after a happy hour somewhere? That’s enough bolts (don’t recall seeing the grade info) to last a family farm several generations :)

I felt I was morally obligated to give all those who provided possible fixes a sense of closure rather than just disappearing leaving this an unsolved mystery. No, the mystery was solved and it involved air infiltration obviously. Yeah, I sure could have used the help…probably would’ve paid for...

Update- mechanic working on it now and it appears to be air entering system between tank and filter bowl. Trouble is that it is a very difficult hose to get to. If he can’t access from front instrument panel then it will have to go to dealer since Sims cab will probably have to come off. That is...

Oohhhhhhhh, I didn’t actually realize that due to its position. It is behind (towards cab) the filter so I simply assumed based on its position that it preceded (functionally) the filtration. But is see what you’re saying is very likely the case as I’ve never dealt with the component and barely...

Ha ha the same thing crossed my mind since each ‘test’ takes 20 min (unless done before it cycles down too far). I’m going to show him what happens after 15min at 2,500rpm which will make it start faster.

Got it, will try as described by JC below. Thank u for response.

Totally get it thanks for clarifying. Theoretically this would be a great explanation and I will def try it but if this solenoid was not getting full power after 20 min or so and it started to close and ultimately completely close, wouldn’t u expect the lack of fuel to be reflected in the filter...

I will try this. So unplug solenoid from ignition wire and hook a 12guage (?) wire from pos terminal of battery to the elec tab on solenoid, right?

Every time I’ve checked fuel flow from tank it has been very strong. Sediment bowl never goes dry or even drops at all…always is full. I’ve always filtered fuel poured into tank but that doesn’t mean the prev owner who put on 300 hours necessarily did. But, it was super clean when I bought it...

Yes I have def checked fuel flow on both sides of filter housing while it did this and no problem. I am nearly positive this pre-1999 shibauru engine does not have a lift pump. I have a diesel mechanic coming over for $40/hr Friday so will se what he has to say. I did replace the solenoid but...

Yep, same thing just happened to a frien about two weeks ago but in this case he (foolishly) left the cap off a 5 gal fuel container for a couple weeks in the shed. Wasps made a pretty big nest then died. He then unknowingly poured this ‘bee soup’ in his tank. Got 20 min of running before no go...

Nice idea, I will find a suitable lab! Unfortunately it is raining today which delays my investigation of the radiator fluid by a day. I will reserve a few oz for the test kit.

Absolutely gorgeous tractor!

Ok, got my to do list for tomorrow. Will also go onto the ‘nextdoor’ app to ask generally if there’s a retire diesel mechanic out nearby that would take a look. I am at the outer limits of my mechanical diagnostician skills so really need a pro. Tomorrow I will examine the radiator’s contents...

Oooh, excellent questions…the filtered fuel exits at the top of the filter housing (it enters at the top on other side). You think air may be intruding due to slight warpage of bowl? I did replace bowl and filter. Unfortunately, no this 1920 does not have any sort of plunger as you’ve...

Thank you for so many good ideas. I don’t think I have a laser temp sensor like you described but I know someone who does and I’m calling him right now. Thanks again for the insights. Update— just bought one for $25 on Amazon. Super useful tool I have no idea why I didn’t have one!

Based on what I just read on another site (tractorforum I think) someone else pointed this out as a symptom of a warped head. That’d account for the problem starting when the engine gets hot. And as u point out, oil in the coolant (or Vice Versa?) means that the two are intermixing which would...

Interesting but my sediment bowl is always full, it never drops even slightly

Omg, that’s awful. I’ve learned my lesson re leaving tank less than 3/4 full. This is likely the issue. Thanks again (especially for the pic which I should print and keep prominently in barn!

1920 is not among the listed compatible tractors for these rims, unfortunately. You could ask the eBay seller…

Sounds like a safety interlock. There are several on that tractor like seat, pto, etc

I’m still recuperating from the sticker shock I got when I saw the msrp (sure glad mine came with the factory installed plates. Honestly that looks like an awfully big chunk of steel to do what mine do. How much does it weigh? It’ll reduce your lift capacity a bit if it is hundreds of pounds...

That is awesome! I would definitely buy one as much of my land is scattered with >2’ boulders where you’d least expect them.

All hoses replaced and same issue. I never mentioned this because it seems so unrelated but I did put a new battery in tractor right when this started. Got the new battery in after it sat half full of fuel for 3 weeks with dead battery, installed new one and whammo—my problem began. Like I said...

Yeah new solenoid and four hoses later have same issue. Since it *seems* temp related I’m going to flush the radiator as that prob hasn’t been done in 10 years if ever.

Thanks Ed, I just changed the last of the four fuel lines (not from tank to sediment bowl because I cannot get to it) and no go. Same thing every time. I’ve burned thru 4 gallons of diesel doing these tests and am now at the end of the road. However, tomorrow I will flush radiator and add new...

I agree and am changing all fuel hoses this weekend. Already finished the returns and tested but no luck…

OP realizes it is an interesting tangent and is sufficiently afraid of overheating and it’s repurcutions to avoid anything drastic. That said, I’m no diesel mechanic, and am taking a very risk averse approach. That my CNH dealer sent me the wrong hoses after we talked it thru twice confirming...

True tangential but of potential anecdotal use some day!

Omg, not baby seals. No, seriously as a mathematician that makes a lot of sense. D

Yep, I get it. Don’t want it to overheat and warp block or worse (assuming there is something worse)…

Well I like the diagnostic advice re cracked block! That could run thousands to fix. Thanks to my NH dealer (Chambers in Montgomery, NY) the wrong fuel lines were sent so there’s another week delay. I will see what I can do re the temp sensor. I’m actually running out of the new 5gal I put in...

Thanks Ed, I’d almost fly you here to do it given my exacerbation. I am missing the implication of “t-stat” still have the fuel lines en route from cnh. Hoping fedex was used. The disgusting thing is I ran the global customer and dealer satisfaction programs for NH before the merger so know...

I dk but I will try, Lou. It *acts fuel/air starved when it goes into this cycle and it always happens when temp hits exact same point on gauge. New filter, rad and screen filter cleaning improved whole cycle but not by much. My last hope is the new fuel lines. I’m going to look around for an...

I will try this. Nothing else has worked and new fuel hoses don’t arrive for a few days.

I just took out screen in front of radiator and it was about 25% clogged so cleaned really well and replaced. Same result as before…runs 30 min then starts to vary speed until very slowly — over the course of 15 minutes — it goes down hill and I can’t push RPMs back up to 2000. I’ve had it...

Replaced solenoid and checked voltage to it as the die down process began. I totally think that it is possible that this fuel starvation issue could be linked to erratic voltage to the solenoid but why would it always start happening when the temp gauge reaches a certain point (right in the...

Yes that’s something I’ve seriously considered especially since it was very humid and hot up here in the Catskills and I foolishly left the tank half full, unused for a few weeks waiting to get a new battery. If I end up sending it to the dealer I will have that done for sure. The likely have...

Thanks for the insights Scotty. Your reaction to the hoses clinches that decision. I will replace them all tomorrow. Regarding the temperature related source I’m leaning your direction because it so clearly a lack of fuel/combustion issue. I haven’t bled the injector because there is a set of...

Ed, I will give it a try! No need for the $7 as it barely buys a half gallon of milk these days! :)

Well new air filter was promising at first as after 20 min rpm started dipping from 1,500 to 1,400 and this jumping goes down continued until could tell it would eventually die. It tried and tried to maintain 1,500rpm but the engine would slow down for a few secs then recover to 1,500...

OK! Excellent idea (other than the “removing” part. I could still shop vac the outside screen thoroughly which I will do after this air filter test which now sounds like a failure as it has been running nearly 20 min at 1,500rpm and I can hear it start to die down. Once it dies…or close to it… I...

I agree that is a possibility but as it dies down and pulled the fuel line from filter housing and it was streaming out no problem. This has led me to thing it is not clogged in tank but the theory certainly makes sense.

Good point, I will replace the lines regardless. Am waiting with baited breath as the new air filter arrived today and I installed it. Tractor has been running about 10 min but if problem is still there in won’t start happening for another 10-15 min. On edge of seat…

Got the new one today, installed it and it has been running at 1,500rpm for about 10 min. If it keeps going past the 20 min mark, problem solved. Otherwise back to the drawing board.

Hi, yes yes the coolant level in the overflow reservoir (with lines indicating ‘add’ and ‘full’) rises a few inches as engine warms up but not to the point it overflows into the tube at top at which point I guess it just would drain to ground. I am waiting for an air filter and the one in...

Yes, you’re right re the hoses. The brained ones go from tank to filter and then out to injector (I’m in a quandary re the lift pump though as I think it appeared in 1999 and my unit was likely built in 1998 since it was purchased Aug ‘99. Plus, the big repair manual doesn’t reference a lift...

I don’t think this pre 1999 engine does not have a fuel lift pump? No reference to it in the repair manual…

Is this the indentation you were referring to? If so, what does it do? I haven’t removed the whole unit cap and bowl to thoroughly clean it.

Any idea what the indentation right at the top of the fuel filter housing is? It is VERY hard for me to get close due to FEL which makes all this a real pain. I had to just push my phone down to it to get close enuf. I am at a loss…

PS re your comment on fuel lines — why would it take 20 min and a warm engine for this problem to manifest itself? I mean, if there was air coming in are you suggesting that it takes a while for a sufficient ‘bubble’ in the line(s) to become a problem? Tx again, D

Excellent advice and i will try it out today! Thank you Danica

Ok, I believe you’re probably right…the one going back into the tank was literally decaying. Thanks again, Danica

Thank you! And my oh my taking that wheel off must’ve been fun. Yikes. Yes I will go to Napa and replace them all. Danica

Mine failed at 12 years, replaced with OEM and no prob since.

Battery voltage remained at 14.64v thruout the die down. I’m convinced it is related to engine temp somehow…something is getting too hot and responding negatively (pun intended) Danica

I’ll go to Napa…

I missed this post somehow and it makes sense…the (overflow?) line going back to fuel tank was practically mushy so I trimmed about a half inch from it and replaced. But yes the more important fuel lines are original which makes them over 20 years old. Also, this tractor was bought in Aug ‘99...

Ok wierd question: the fuel transfer pump in ur pic is for engines manufactured after 1999 and mine was purchased Aug 1999. Isn’t it likely that my Shib engine was built in 1998 or before? I say that also cuz looking very carefully all around it I don’t see anything like the pump in the pic. Who...

With the sims cab on pulling the tank would be a major project I think. I have another FEL that could help out but omg this sounds like a lot of work. Plus I flushed it and never had diminished fuel flow from tank. But if all else fails I will attempt. First I will give the fuel lift pump a...

Yep that was suggested but will be tricky as the woods FEL is totally in the way (ditto sims cab) giving me just maybe 4” of free space to work in. Very inconvenient!

Oh my, yes very possible because a brand new battery went in prior to this mess but it was fine for quite a while. I will def monitor battery voltage. Typically if I let it sit for an hour it will start up fine and run smoothly until it is warmed up (per temp gauge) at which point is slowly...

Ooops, yes that’s the screen I referenced earlier. Well, I will check it and if that’s the culprit will send the new $60 lift pump back. And you’re right I did not pay much attention to the filter casting so there are two possible solutions. Thanks again (and to those who mentioned these before)

Oh I didn’t know that but recall a discussion of the voltages in the big technical repair manual. Maybe that’s why it dropped as I continuously monitored voltage during whole process. That does make sense but I was under the impression it needs like 14v to retract and if it loses that current...

Yes I used 30psi on all lines (e.g., the returns too) and disconnected both ends on all but the fuel line since blowing air into it would presumably dislodge any ‘diesel algae’ (I know this is technically a misnomer). So all lines cleared. I ordered a new transfer pump but will also try a few...

Ordered this. Couldn’t find on Amazon so got hit with $25 shipping! Oh well. By the end of this I may have replaced every part on the tractor. :)

Yup, I may just break down and buy one. I have done everything else mentioned on this site having created two separate threads. The only other thing I will check is the outflow from filter bowl during its power down cycle and checking a screen another user pointed out as a possible culprit. I...

Fuel bowl is absolutely full thru the entire die down process. I’ve made the mistake of accidentally leaving it off and come out to see it half full or lower. But in this case, no fuel level in bowl doesn’t change.

Well I did change the solenoid but could get voltmeter out again and monitor fluctuations (if any) as the engine starts dying. Generally I’d think the solenoid could be extended out half way if getting 7v but fully retract with 14v (or whatever it is…have to get manual out) Thanks again for ideas. D

Yes I blew out every line to the sediment bowl/filter including the one from the tank. The others I disconnected both ends and shot air thru them. So every line has been cleared of any sort of obstruction. And, yep I did try the tank cap trick many times! D

Ohhhh, that could definitely be it. That’s #1 on my list tomorrow!!

Yep lift pump replacement looks easy as per repair manual. I haven’t checked cost yet. So far I have about $200 into this. Thank you for your ideas!

Thank you for all the ideas. I will try what you’ve suggested tomorrow if it isn’t raining. Didn’t check the outflow of fuel from sediment bowl. Will do that. Yes there is a fuel pump and from the repair manual it seems pretty ez to remove (that Woods FEL is such a PITA when it come to accessing...

Right, the die down process can take 10 to 15 minutes so the fuel solenoid is definitely not just springing back into the closed position or it would die fast. Anyway, someone said the solenoid *could* be malfunctioning slowly and a voltmeter did confirm that as the die down started the voltage...

Right, well I did replace solenoid and tested to see it retract with leads to battery just in case. But your point re temp makes a lot of sense because when the temp gauge hits the midpoint (as viewed in cab) then it starts to die. It is as if there is some thermostat or something I’m unaware of...

I edited orig post per your observation (thanks)

Oh right, I put in a new solenoid and was sure that would fix it. Gotta edit orig post.

No, if the photo shows it off it was just because I had just blown air up fuel line. My mistake!

Update-hired a young freelance diesel mechanic who spent 5 hours going over everything and even he’s not positive it is 100% solved but the root cause appears to be air leaking into the fuel system. He put a new brass flat sealing washer on bleed screw and tight ended all the other connections...

Wierd cuz my Tc40da has same type port but NO fins on filter. Letting debris drop out makes more sense than collecting it in the 1920 housing as per earlier post by other member.

Ok! So *that* is the logic behind the fins! I wonder if this really works. Makes sense I suppose though I opened mine and didn’t encounter anything big in part F(a). Could they also reduce the velocity of a big piece thereby protecting the soft filter element?

Wow, thanks so much for the info, that’s very helpful. I know the inner filters will last a long time but at the prices on Amazon (for the one with fins) it would be nice to extend life with an appropriate cleaning. Thanks again!

Hilarious

Just ordered the solenoid after monitoring voltage which became very erratic as engine started to die down erratically. Fingers crossed that was it. Thank you again, Danica

I have 2 NHs a Tc40da and a 1920. The latter takes an outer air filter with “fins” and costs a lot more. Any idea why these two tractors that are actually pretty similar (obviously one is hst) have such differently designed air filters? Are the fins of any value? Thanks in advance!

Ok I had schematics for solenoid and see how it works. I will do it properly with a voltmeter on Saturday. Btw, yes when I turn key off, yes-it turns right off and Vice versa. Danica

External fuel source is GREAT idea! I will try this on mine which has a similar issue.

Sorry, your link was to the same unit sitting in my out basket right now :)

Wouldn’t you think it would instantly go back to it default (closed) position and cause an instant shutdown I.e, complete fuel cutoff? In my case the “die down” takes about 10 min of slow reduction in rpm. Further, it always happens when the engine temp gauge get to the norm (midpoint) level...

Hope you get an answer cuz I have the same issue!

Thank you so much! Well I siphoned out the old fuel and replaced with 5 gal brand new. Same problem! By now I have changed fuel filter and rings plus spring, tested with tank cap off, and am in a real quandary. It runs beautifully for 15 to20 min and then starts to act like it is fuel starved...

Oh jeez, dumb me! Thank you, I’m just siphoning all the old fuel out and going to put in 5gal that I just went and got minutes ago.

Thanks for responding and your pics look like what I’d expect in this 1920 BUT the fuel feed the filter bowl coming out of the *top* of the tank (see pic) does it just create a siphoned effect or somehow draw the fuel up to that point? In my pic the line goes from top of tank down to fuel...

Transfer pump ain't gonna do what your asking. Just a bit curious, did you find tank outlet fitting, shut off valve at the tank and hose from the shut off valve to the inlet of the filter? PS no, I’m only aware of the shutoff at the filter and yes I assume my pic showed the outlet and inlet...

Got it. Thanks. I’d never paid much attention since never had a fuel problem in 20 years.

Yes, I just replaced the sediment bowl, filter o-ring etc but my original problem is still there=it runs for ten min at say 2,500rpm then starts to act as if is starved for fuel or air and slows down until it dies. Wait 30 min and it will start again but go thru the whole cycle of dying all...

I was following this thread and noted your comment about “getting out of this state” and finally I see later it is NY, yes we are a way overpriced mommy-state. Taxes are insane.

This is probably a really dumb question but the 1920 is my backup tractor and I’m not nearly as familiar with it. I always assumed the fuel filter was gravity fed but there are two lines coming from the tank. The close one drops right down to the filter but the farther one actually goes into no...

[ok this sounds very logical to me and I’m just going to order one on Amazon as another member suggested (may actually have been you). Anyway before I empty the tank and create the vacuum contraption (which is really novel) I’m going to give the ez solenoid solution a shot. Fortunately it has...

OMG. I have never heard of such a crazy situation during my entire tenure on TBN. Wow, that’s one I will have to relate to some friends. In my instance I’m now very very hopeful that it’s the solenoid as the problem emerges only when the heat gauge gets to the midpoint on the scale. Thank you...

Darn I was so hopeful there’d be a product that would just chemically dissolve it. The shop vac collection approach is great! What a good way not to have a stinky shop vac for the next ten years! Even so, this doesn’t seem like a cake walk. I mean you can’t see in the tank to visually confirm...

PS re the pic you originally sent re filter housing wouldn’t it be a little cleaner to shut of fuel (no bleeding later) and disconnect inlet hose letting it drain into clean receptacle which will likely be 2 5-gallon diesel cans?

That is exactly what I’ve planned with one exception I failed to mention yesterday: this issue starts when the engine temp hits about the 25% tick on the heat gauge which would mean a much easier fix (changing the sensor). My gut says that it is getting clogged in the tank though cuz foolishly...

I think my first message got zapped, anyway, the new sediment bowl o-ring and spring replacement went fine. Bled it and started and same issue emerged. After 15 min it starts losing RPMs and eventually dies like it was getting no fuel or air. The filter I changed out was pretty clean. The only...

Yep, got it! You’re right there is no cutoff on the inbound line so I will use the Vice grips approach with the cardboard or thick cloth. Yes, first shot of this I did have it all back together, blended it and it started fine. Thankfully I didn’t run it more than a minute because the stupid...

The photos wouldn’t really help you I’m afraid but your idea re removing it from the hoses and doing the fitting on a workbench makes a ton of sense. I did order another bowl which will likely be less flared at the lip (likely due to 20 year of being tightly compressed against the unit you...

Me again, ok get this…I’ve done all the work on my tractors for 20 years but this sediment bowl is giving me pure hell! It is plastic and should fit very tightly into the upper receiving fuel area. There is zero tolerance for any slight warping etc in the bowl. Reall, it should be glass (which...

I know this post is really old but I just had the same very frustrating experience…the sediment bowl won’t fit back into the housing. The bowl is plastic and it seems like any deviation from perfectly round precludes getting it back in. I’ve ordered a new one on Amazon but have little hope...

That’s really discouraging…my NH has been nearly flawless for 1,600 hours but maybe build quality has diminished. I ran their worldwide customer and dealer satisfaction programs for years as a consultant. Back then both groups were happy about everything except financials (customers didn’t like...

I just bought one on Amazon for $13…like a reverse grease gun let’s you suck the old junk out of (e.g.,) a gear box or other with no drain port at bottom. Good YouTube video on changing oil in bush hog gear box shows same tool. The stuff in my gearbox no longer resembled oil! More like a milky goop.

Seems like a bad design flaw…why not just have a single filter (like oil or hydro) with a outflow button on bottom for releasing water. Then it’d be like a normal filter change…

The disgusting thing is the spring isn’t mentioned in the owner’s manual or the massive repair manual or even on any of the YouTube videos that ostensibly show exactly how to change filter and bleed lines. Thank you again!

I will and thank you again for your definitive answer!

Thank you! Will try tomorrow and hopefully it will be easier 2nd time. Danica

Help! I just changed the fuel filter on a 1920 and then after an hour of trying to position the bowl back in found a 1” spring at the bottom of the bucket into which I let the diesel to drain into. I have never seen anything about a spring under or in the fuel filter but to my dismay saw on...

I love mine bought in 04 with the Shib 4 cyl engine. I do all the regular fluid changes and have only had a few issues that I took care of myself including changing out the power steering unit and multiple trips in the fuse panel at $100 apiece. There’s no dealer within 20 miles and I have no...

The wider they are the more apt they are to scalp on hilly terrain. My 6 foot finish mower was fine on my fields but wrecked my hilly yard…

Anyone have any comments on this story on Vice news today? Not just JD but NH and others too. Presume it is only the big units (I.e, not cat 1 machines). The power this dealer has over the Missouri farmer is disgusting! Why not make the repair tools available to the owners? Are these the new...

Awesome, will look for date. Going into a Tc40da with 1,600 hours. Last changed hydraulic oil at 500 hours…

I have two 5 gallon, unopened buckets of New Holland Ambra hydraulic fluid that have been in the barn safely tucked away for 10 years. Has this degraded or become less efficacious? I really don’t want to buy 10 more gallons at today’s prices…

Seven years old but it just helped me with same problem!

Ha, I had same problem 8 years ago and just used a bolt that seemed to fit and it has worked flawlessly ever since. Your ‘bush fix’ does work I’m happy yo say!

Definitely a nonlinear problem as similar reductions in width (say to 2’ for fun) would still require 20hp which we know would be grossly overpowered!

Not in a million years. Tell him he can rent one somewhere and your insurance agent said it is a bad idea due to liability. This has worked for me many times.

That is our litigious society gone mad…

Where do you find those metal pallets?! All our firewood goes in wood, sided pallet and they’re starting to deteriorate. The metal ones are awesome.

I use a big PHD with down pressure cylinder and a Danuser tree/bush planting auger that drills a cone shaped hole 32” wide at the top and 4” wide at bottom. About 18 “ deep. But really this isn’t as good as using the backhoe since the auger hole is less friendly to new rooting. I really have to...

That story is outrageous! If you were buying thru a dealer I’d contact the OEM. If you were working thru and OEM owned distribution channel you should relate this story on very appropriate forum you can. I wouldn’t have been so calm; your “good mood” must be a very Zen-like place to be!

I was just thinking the other day that even though my NH has the 787C backhoe essentially permanently attached (bought a 2nd CUT for pto work) that the pto shaft still would be rotating if a person inadvertently engaged it. Then sitting on the backhoe it wouldn’t take much to touch or become...

Oh ad to that the Creative Director in advertising for Liberty Mutual insurance. I mute them when they come on.

I've tried them all on my 4 acre pasture, bush hog, flail and finish. The best cut you will get is from a good 5' or 6' (wider leads to scalping) finish mower. Unlike the others it generates enough vacuum to pull the grass that is compressed (mainly by your rear tires) so that if gets cut. Of...

Even though subframe hoes are the only way to go, have you gone thru the procedure required to remove it when u want to use the 3pt hitch. On my NHTC40DA it is such a pain I’ve left it on and just got a 2nd tractor dedicated to implements like snowblower, box blade, etc etc. I like having one...

That’s interesting cuz I’ve never adjusted the clutch and it is *possible* that it is too loose which gave me much less pulling capacity. Will check manual on proper adjustment procedure.

Partly cloudy and 60 in the Catskills (ny). Time to take the NH snowblower off the Ford. Not fun alone so I use a variety of diy rolling carriages to move it around. At 1,000+ lbs it is a chore. Happy Friday!

Nice big boxblade is what I used to smooth out an acre then rolled with a water-filled drum, put down grass seed with rented pto spreader and cover with hay/straw don’t recall which...one is bad and has lots of seeds that will ruin your new lawn). Then set up sprinklers on timer and voila, your...

Aargh, sounds like a recipient for disaster. Bring in a couple hundred yards of fill and build it up.

I swear a visitor to this country watching network programs would think Americans are the most disease ridden, ill people on earth. Every other commercial is for some sort of pharmaceutical product. And the side effects profiles make the original ailment look preferable to taking the risk of the...

My policy specifically will not cover the tractors if they’re used off my property. that’s a homeowners policy and was the same issue with every agency I’ve had...

Yesterday, my stupid boyfriend convinced me to get in my tractor and pull on a series of chains attached pretty high up on a dead tree that was leaning towards the power lines. I wanted to wait and put in a snatch block or pulley to give myself a little angle so it wasn't going to come down...

Hi all you tractor guys, i have a very pressing question to which I need an answer very quickly. I have TC40DA New Holland plus a bunch of implements ranging from a CSR 84 snowblower to a 7308 BH Post Hole Digger 60-inch tiller and various others. The thing is, it is very difficult for me to...

I am thinking of getting a steiger panther to work on as a hobby and toy. Yes, i am serious. I wouoldnt do all the hard stuff myself (not that strong and i model so need all my appendages) but to me that tractor is like WOW: burt reynolds, brad pitt, and clooney all wrapped up in a massive...

Dear CNH owners, I have posted here a few times and get excellent suggestions and feedback so i am turning to you now for comments on the following bid. I called the place that appears to dominate the tractor transport business (every website seems to actually lead back to the same home page)...

Ok boys, get this: my little tc40da new holland tractor has been in storage in Wisconsin for more than two years. I put diesel stabilizer in her but no charger or anything on battery. I bought a new battery at napa per advice on this site. Got to the storage facility ready to take out old CNH...

Hello everyone, I'm sorry for asking such a dumb question and i sure hope you can help. I did search the forum first. In a nutshell: 1. My tractor in storage for nearly two years. Battery 99.999% sure is dead. 2. Need new battery cuz i have to start it this Thursday 3. Am at my mom's house...

Hi, I've had my chainsaw ( Husqvarna 395XP) in storage for nearly a year and a half. I put Stabil in the gas back then but am going back to get it this spring. It cost me quite a bit (nearly $1,000) and I want to ensure it will still work ok and is not ruined or something. My intuition tells...

Hi, I hope this isn't a dumb question: due to divorce, I had to store *my* CNH TC40DA tractor for the last 16 months. I did have stabil put in the diesel fuel and filled the tank to the top. She is in a secure storage facility, completely away from the elements etc. If I were to go there in...

Hi, I hope this isn't the wrong forum for this topic but it's rather unique: i need to transport the following from wisconsin to my new home in the Catskills north of NYC: TC40DA 17LA loader CNH 9' backhoe 7' CNH snowblower 6' bush hog 6' rotary tiller bush hog PHD 7' box scraper can anyone...