Which trailer to buy?

[JimR]

I am considering buying a used trailer. Here is what I am looking for. I want a 10K rating to keep it under DOT Regs. I prefer about 18 feet log with at least 75 inches between the fenders. Not a tag trailer because the axles are too far back. I want flip up spring assisted ramps if possible. Must have electric brakes, not hydraulics. No deck trailers. Not sure about the springs type as in slipper springs versus standard shackle types. Must have adjustable tongue bracket so that I can level off the trailer and fit the hitch on my truck. I see a lot for sale around me for $1500 to 2K and needing work or no titles. Others with titles are $2K and up and might need work. What do you have and how do you like it. I don't want to buy a new one due to how little it will be used.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Another thing to add to your list is try to find one with a bulldog type hitch. That is the kind that opens up on the side and has a ring that moves back and forth to lock it.

The cheaper ones with the bail (u shaped) metal on top of the latch that moves forward to lock it are a LOT lighter duty and fairly easy to mess up.

A good jack on it is really nice. I like the heavy duty square ones that crank way up so you do not hit curbs or speed bumps or perhaps if your careful the lighter duty ones that can rotate like a watch hand to get them up and out of the way.

Pay attention to the lights, your likely to have to work on them to get a used trailor up to grade.

Wiggle the tires to see if they are loose. Usually a sign of bad bearings. Once you get a trailor repack the bearings on it.

Tires worn on one side ? Usually a bent axle or something else to fix that usually not cheap.

Spare tire ? Or at least a place to carry one.

Tool box is nice for tie downs and what not.

Get down low on one end and look down the frame to see if its warped.

Look closely for cracks in the welds.

The fold down ramps you mentioned are nice. The fold down ramps with a brace or foot on them that rest on or near the ground when unfolded helps take a lot of weight off the trailors rear when driving a load on. Pretty easy to rig up after purchase if needed.

Wood decks are less slippery for equipment but have to be replaced once in a while. Treating them helps to last longer.

Tie down and anchor points are nice. The move the better.

Trailors with side rails are handy but harder to load stuff from the side with a forklift.

I have done fine with either type of springs.

Pretty easy to have a adjustable height hitch on the truck if the trailor is not adjustable.

Usually on the trailors I have been around you can hear the brakes hum if your close to them when the brakes are activated. Not a guarantee they will work but its a good sign.

As far as brands no idea.

 

[nikerret]

Once you hit 10k combined weight you hit DOT, so I’m assuming you mean to stay under 10k to avoid CDL, correct?

I’m confused, you don’t want a bumper pull, which leaves only gooseneck and fifth wheel, but you need an adjustable tongue. So you want a gooseneck or fifth wheel flatbed with a adjustable tongue? The reason is due to axle placement? From what I’ve seen the trailers that come in bumper or gooseneck use the same axle and body, just different headboards. The gooseneck will put more load into the truck, if that’s your goal.

 

[EddieWalker]

When I was looking, everyone wants almost as much as a new one costs, and they where all beat up pretty badly, so I went to my local trailer guy and asked what he had. I've seen people asking more for used trailers then what I paid for mine brand new.

 

[JimR]

Another thing to add to your list is try to find one with a bulldog type hitch. That is the kind that opens up on the side and has a ring that moves back and forth to lock it.

The cheaper ones with the bail (u shaped) metal on top of the latch that moves forward to lock it are a LOT lighter duty and fairly easy to mess up.

A good jack on it is really nice. I like the heavy duty square ones that crank way up so you do not hit curbs or speed bumps or perhaps if your careful the lighter duty ones that can rotate like a watch hand to get them up and out of the way.

Pay attention to the lights, your likely to have to work on them to get a used trailor up to grade.

Wiggle the tires to see if they are loose. Usually a sign of bad bearings. Once you get a trailor repack the bearings on it.

Tires worn on one side ? Usually a bent axle or something else to fix that usually not cheap.

Spare tire ? Or at least a place to carry one.

Tool box is nice for tie downs and what not.

Get down low on one end and look down the frame to see if its warped.

Look closely for cracks in the welds.

The fold down ramps you mentioned are nice. The fold down ramps with a brace or foot on them that rest on or near the ground when unfolded helps take a lot of weight off the trailors rear when driving a load on. Pretty easy to rig up after purchase if needed.

Wood decks are less slippery for equipment but have to be replaced once in a while. Treating them helps to last longer.

Tie down and anchor points are nice. The move the better.

Trailors with side rails are handy but harder to load stuff from the side with a forklift.

I have done fine with either type of springs.

Pretty easy to have a adjustable height hitch on the truck if the trailor is not adjustable.

Usually on the trailors I have been around you can hear the brakes hum if your close to them when the brakes are activated. Not a guarantee they will work but its a good sign.

As far as brands no idea.

All good points and many were on my list. I've seen a few trailers with inside tire wear from bent axles and over-loading. Really good point on sighting in the side rails to see if they are twisted or bent. The lights are not a big deal to fix or rewire.

 

[JimR]

Once you hit 10k combined weight you hit DOT, so I’m assuming you mean to stay under 10k to avoid CDL, correct?

I’m confused, you don’t want a bumper pull, which leaves only gooseneck and fifth wheel, but you need an adjustable tongue. So you want a gooseneck or fifth wheel flatbed with a adjustable tongue? The reason is due to axle placement? From what I’ve seen the trailers that come in bumper or gooseneck use the same axle and body, just different headboards. The gooseneck will put more load into the truck, if that’s your goal.

I am not using this for business use and can avoid DOT if the trailer is 10K or under. I do have a bumper hitch setup. My Ram is very high, so an adjustable front hitch up point on the trailer is needed.

 

[JimR]

When I was looking, everyone wants almost as much as a new one costs, and they where all beat up pretty badly, so I went to my local trailer guy and asked what he had. I've seen people asking more for used trailers then what I paid for mine brand new.

What I am looking for would cost me a minimum of $4K - 5K around here new.

 

[nikerret]

I am not using this for business use and can avoid DOT if the trailer is 10K or under. I do have a bumper hitch setup. My Ram is very high, so an adjustable front hitch up point on the trailer is needed.

If it’s solely for personal/private use, there is no Federal DOT required, regardless of weight. I don’t know Massachusetts’ State laws.

Instead of an adjustable coupler, why not get an adjustable ball mount;




My trailer is adjustable, but I find it easier to have an adjustable ball mount.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I've bought trailers new only, after realizing that the used market is full of overpriced and possibly dangerous junk.

Loadtrail, Big Tex, PJ, Haulmark, and Kaufman - all have been just fine for my uses. 3k to 14k. Equipment and dump and cargo.

These days sealed LED lights are getting to be standard, do not get anything else.

 

[natedog75]

If it’s solely for personal/private use, there is no Federal DOT required, regardless of weight. I don’t know Massachusetts’ State laws.

Instead of an adjustable coupler, why not get an adjustable ball mount;




My trailer is adjustable, but I find it easier to have an adjustable ball mount.

^^^^^THIS^^^^^^

I have multiple trailers with multiple hitch heights. Some are adjustable some are not. An adjustable ball mount saves time and hassle. Unless you have multiple trucks with fixed mounts pulling the trailer you will be better served with a heavy duty adjustable ball mount. I have a Class V B&W 3” drop/rise adjustable ball mount with a combo 2” and 2-5/16 ball. All you do is pull the pins and adjust and/or swap ball size. Best thing I have bought in a long time.

As as far as trailer. I have an 18ft 10k rated trailer. It is kind of an in between size. Long enough to carry most items but comes up about 1 ft short of being able to hall the LS XR4040 with the land plane and not having to strap up the ramps. The weight rating is just low enough I can’t haul a 5 ton Excavator or the Kubota SVL 75-2 with out taking a risk on the axles.

I have no side rails but the fenders get in the way of loading. And the guys at the box stores don’t know how to use side shift on the forklift.

If I had it to do over again I would bite the bullet and get a 14k deck over 22ft trailer probably in a gooseneck. But that’s just one guy’s opinion.

I just mention this because I bought the type of trailer you are looking for and what you to know what I ran up against. Because I/ you would never need more than 10k hauling capacity right. Until we do.