The last Barn. (maybe)

/ The last Barn. (maybe) #81  
Rebar was pulled up while pouring, they had a guy dedicated to doing that. Most of the concrete was 4.5-5" thick, up in the front and middle of the barn it was 5.5-6" thick.

For a home job I'm still very happy with the whole thing and most people that come and see it don't know anything about the height issue. ;)
Looking good. For my pour, I was able to dig down the doorway, for 12' 6" concrete truck clearance. Once in, they just had to jockey around a bit to pour it.

Why no foam underneath? Are you going to heat it?
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #82  
Why no foam underneath? Are you going to heat it?
I was wondering about a plastic vapor barrier. Would a vapor barrier and/or insulation keep it from sweating and knock down humidity?
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#83  
I plan to heat a room inside that I'll show later. If I heat the rest it'll be much later in time with a used oil heater. Anything I put down would have been torn up by the skid steers going in/out.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #84  
Rebar was pulled up while pouring, they had a guy dedicated to doing that. Most of the concrete was 4.5-5" thick, up in the front and middle of the barn it was 5.5-6" thick.
We could not chair the rebar because all of the concrete was brought in by skid steer. That was my own fault because the whole building was supposed to be taller. When the post holes were drilled a few of them were really deep ( I knew it) but I thought I had plenty of post to make up the difference, well I didn't. The middle section was supposed to have 14' doors so a cement truck would fit in and the awning doors were supposed to be 10'. Basically we were 9" short and it messed up the whole thing. Didn't realize it until the trusses were going up. It's no big deal other than not getting the cement truck in and now my snow machine trailer doesn't fit where I planned it to go. Easy fix though, I'll sell the trailer I have and buy a new one 6" shorter.
For a home job I'm still very happy with the whole thing and most people that come and see it don't know anything about the height issue. ;)
Anyone who builds something and says they'd do it exactly the same again is a liar.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #85  
I'm on the fence about vapor barrier. I think there's a lot of logistical variances that come into play.

If I were building this in Missouri I wouldn't put a vapor barrier down.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #86  
Terrific building and job. If only I were younger and had the confidence to take on the a project like that.
I'm glad I'm not younger and dumber to tackle a project like this. :ROFLMAO: Impressive and beautiful to boot! One of the best build threads that I have followed in quite awhile.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#87  
I'm on the fence about vapor barrier. I think there's a lot of logistical variances that come into play.

If I were building this in Missouri I wouldn't put a vapor barrier down.
In Utah were I lived, the vapor barrier would have been a waste of money. It's more humid here in Idaho but still I don't think it's needed.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#88  
I'm glad I'm not younger and dumber to tackle a project like this. :ROFLMAO: Impressive and beautiful to boot! One of the best build threads that I have followed in quite awhile.
I know I have to get all these projects done soon. The older I get the less enthusiasm I have for working that hard.
Hay shed this summer and a green house next summer. After that it's time for me and my bride to travel and play. Hopefully our health continues to be good.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#89  
It took a long time, actually the last thing done but my buddy (the metal guy help) got the doors wrapped.
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/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#90  
Now that the outside is completely done it's time to get the inside how I want it.
I needed a place to store firewood and a heated place for the tractor. Plan is to foam insulate the tractor area and I'll just use a 6' electric base board to heat it. I only want 40-50 degrees to ensure I don't have fuel/starting problems in the winter.
I'm waiting for it to warm up so I can continue the electrical work. I have most of the plugs done and some lights but still need more. Also a nice work bench where the blue barrels and plywood are.
Worth noting that currently the building has only a heavy duty extension cord plugged in on the back patio of the house running through the conduit into the panel in the barn. I'll run permanent power this summer after I get the hay shed done.
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/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#92  
Someone ask what I was putting in the barn; well here's some of it. My enclosed snow machine trailer is supposed to go where the small flat bed trailer and 4 wheelers are. It will when I get a shorter trailer. (less tall) I'll rearrange the crowded corner later on. Last fall I was trying to beat a storm that was coming and I was just getting stuff inside as quick as I could.
I took the last picture to show how much light the translucent panels let in. There are no lights on anywhere for the picture.
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/ The last Barn. (maybe) #93  
Why do some of these pics look like a commercial for whatever you put in front of it?
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #94  
Those panels really do let in a lot of light!!! I'm torn between doing something similar, and wanting to max out the insulation I put in the building, when I build mine. I love the look of your building too.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#96  
Those panels really do let in a lot of light!!! I'm torn between doing something similar, and wanting to max out the insulation I put in the building, when I build mine. I love the look of your building too.
Thanks Eddie,

If good insulation is your goal these panels might not be the best way to go. I would put in actual windows that you can insulate up next too.
If I ever insulate and heat this barn it will be with a used oil heater so leaking lots of heat out of these panels won't be such a big deal.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #97  
Insulation could also be put above the trusses bottom cord letting the top breath. That would not affect the trusses even if there were 0 dead weight on the bottom cord. It could be the typical bubble wrap insulation if you ever wanted to heat. I think the bubble wrap is used under the roof panels to help with sweating issues as temp. changes.

HOWEVER - I would not heat. Having a place to work that is heated is the best way to go because of the cost of heating the whole area. I was thinking the cost of the floor must have been $10K-$12K. Looks great.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe)
  • Thread Starter
#98  
Insulation could also be put above the trusses bottom cord letting the top breath. That would not affect the trusses even if there were 0 dead weight on the bottom cord. It could be the typical bubble wrap insulation if you ever wanted to heat. I think the bubble wrap is used under the roof panels to help with sweating issues as temp. changes.

HOWEVER - I would not heat. Having a place to work that is heated is the best way to go because of the cost of heating the whole area. I was thinking the cost of the floor must have been $10K-$12K. Looks great.
If I insulate I would foam the whole thing.
The floor concrete was more than double what you thought. :mad:
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #99  
I didn't think that. But I guess everything I think costs more than double what I thought they thought. I also never thought of foam. That is much better. Thanks.
 
/ The last Barn. (maybe) #100  
His floor is 6,720 square feet. Poured 5" deep is 102 cubic yards of concrete. If it's $120 p/yard the concrete alone is $12,240.

So if he paid $24,000 he did good. That would be $3.57 per square foot. That's actually not bad at all.
 

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