Rear Blade 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset

[brianidaho]

The title pretty much says it all. I'm looking for a rear blade that offers offset capabiltiy primarily for snow removal. Around here the country is pretty hilly, many driveways are cut across the grade (sidehill). Being able to plow snow to the low side is required, and to maintain the roadway it's important to plow as wide as possible. Now, the problem with that is that it's real easy to drop a wheel off the low side of the roadway-not a good day at all! I'm thinking that hydraulic offset and angle would be really good things to have. I have a bit under 1/2 mile of road myself, and I'm looking to pick up some work from neighbors.

In addition, in the summer I'm looking at doing roadway maintenance and grading, so in addition to the above, gauge wheels might be a real nice thing to have to keep the whoop-de-dos down.

I'm looking at the Landpride RBT35 here:
Land Pride RBT35 Series Rear Blades
Only problem is that I don't see the gauge wheels as an option-I could always build something to address that issue though.

I understand the Woods RB750 might also do what I want:
Woods Equipment Company - 84'', 96'', 108'' & 120'' Heavy-Duty Rear Blades - RB Series

I plan on running these behind a Kubota L3240, do you think it's enough tractor for either of these blades?

Does anyone have any experience with either product, or any recommendations or comments? I would really like to know pricing on both as well. I'm also open to any other manufacturers out there.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[ronjhall]

I have the RB35 model of the blade. Use it behind a B2910. It works very well. The link you show list a Optional hydraulic gauge wheel for both models.
Using a rear blade to remove snow would not be my idea of a good way to clear a drive/road of snow. Here in MI I clear up to 18" of snow with no problems with a front blade.

 

[bkennedy]

I was thinking about the same Landpride blade with hydraulic angle on it for snow. I am up in Northern Ontario. I was hoping this size would be ok for putting behind a JD 2520. I wouldn't be getting it until I have some rear valves for controlling the hydraulics - right now I only have a power beyond loop for hooking up the BH.

 

[JB4310]

That Land pride looks sweet but if your primary use will be for snow, I think the mold board is to short (height wise) for serious snow work.
What's your avg snow fall? does that blade swing around 180* for rear push plowing?
JB.

 

[mwb]

I think you will find that a 7' BB will throw the tractor around on you. Friend has an L3400 w/ FEL with a 7' Buhler - has the power to pull it but the blade is very aggressive and it will pull the front end (in snow) off the road. He has been stuck MANY times because of this. He has added front chains to help with this.

I don't think your machine is heavy enough to handle this comfortably unless you use skid plates or gauge wheels on the BB - even for snow. You might be better to have a front mounted blade (as previously suggested) - at least if your machine is pushed sideways it will be away from your ditch or dropoff.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[brianidaho]

Thanks for all the information guys.

Ronjhall, they show the gauge wheel as an option on the RB35, I didn't see on on the RBT, with the hydraulics, perhaps I'm missing it.
***edited to add:
I stand corrected on the gauge wheel, it isn't listed on the specs, but they do show it in the manual, cool!

Im also concerned that the 17" moldboard height isn't high enough. The thing that makes me think I might get by is the offset, I can raise the blade and "wing" the tops of berms back to some extent. I'd like to hear from more people that use a rear blade on snow. rocks and really get jolted. I had a 6' front blade on my Shibaura, it was only about a foot tall and too lightly constructed, didn't work well at all. I'd plan on running skids, it's the only way to plow snow, otherwise you grab too many frozen

 

[JSharp]

I use a 7' back blade for snow on a tractor slightly larger and heavier than the OP's L3240. With loaded R1's there's no problem at all with it pushing the tractor around. He's probably going to need a 7" blade or he won't be able to clear his tracks with the blade angled.

That said, pushing snow with a back blade isn't much fun. It's what we do when that's all we have. As has been mentioned the moldboard on those blades is low so unless you stay ahead of the snowfall you end up trying to push snow that's so deep it's rolling over the top of the moldboard.

Plus you spend all of your time turned 1/2 around in the seat while trying to keep your speed high enough that the snow will "scour" off the side of the blade instead of just balling up behind it. Running too slow just adds to the problem of it coming over the top of the blade...

 

[brianidaho]

Well, I went ahead and ordered the RBT3584, I'll let you know how things turn out. I got the hydraulilc offset and angle, and ordered a set of skid shoes. I find shoes pretty important for plowing on gravel roads, at least without reversing the blade. I'll go ahead with the gauge wheel once the weather breaks in the spring and I can start with road maintenance.

We typically don't see more than 6-8" at any one snowfall, but it's often pretty wet and heavy. I'm hoping that the offset helps me wing back berms and keep a place to put the miserable white stuff. JB, that blade is reversable. With respect to the low mold board height, we'll hope for the best. I may have to add a wing or extension at the ends. This would make reversing the blade a pain though.

I used a 6' front blade on my current tractor, it was only 12" high, too short for snow removal. In addition, it was barely as wide as the tractor, I drove too close to the edge of the low side of the road and got stuck several times-still have a big dent in the back of my P/U from where the strap broke when trying to yank it out. I'm really hoping the offset capability of the rear blade helps out, keeping me more centered in the roadway. I didn't like the front blade for doing a length of road, it had a real tendency to dig in, and would stop the tractor RIGHT NOW, can't be good for the loader. I was nice though for smaller areas or a parking lot, where you had to push the length of an area and then up a pile.

I figure on chaining up the front tires to keep from getting kicked around so much, may have to go ahead and buy rear chains too. I'd hope to avoid that, both due to expense and the PITA of chaining up.

 

[JB4310]

It should work great, I thought maybe you were in an area that gets heavier snows that's why I said it might be to short.
With the offset like you said you can easily knock down the embankment, how far does it swing over?
What tires do you have, might not need chains if you don't have big hills.
Try and get some pictures of that offset in action.
JB.

 

[brianidaho]

It should work great, I thought maybe you were in an area that gets heavier snows that's why I said it might be to short.
With the offset like you said you can easily knock down the embankment, how far does it swing over?
What tires do you have, might not need chains if you don't have big hills.
Try and get some pictures of that offset in action.
JB.

You still might be right with respect to it being short...I'd be happier with 2' or so of mold board height, but it is what it is. The web site doesn't say anything about how far it offsets, but looking at pictures of it in action on the brochure I guess the offset arm swings to 30 degrees or more, given the length of arm I'd guess maybe 2' or so from center. I hope this helps both with berms and also by allowing me to keep one tire in a plowed area (once the first pass is cut). I'll have filled R4s. Ags might be better from a traction standpoint, but I want the extra width and puncture resistance of the R4s. We have plenty of hills! I guess I'll see how well things work without chains. My old tractor was probably 2/3 the weight of this one, with chains just on the front it was OK. Not great, but OK.

 

[JoeL4330]

I run an 8 foot Landpride 35 w. full hydraulics including a hydraulic gauge wheel (tail wheel, really) on a Kubota L4330 ...43 hp and it works like a charm ...lots of offset for ditching ...but, it is heavy, really heavy, which is good for cutting but is hard on the tractor. As for the height, I don't think its a problem in snow, although if the snow were really deep, I would switch to my rm snowblower. If I worried about blade height, I would attach a rubber flap/lip, as you sometimes see on truck mounted plows, which would avoid some spillover.

Note that with full hydraulics including tail/gauge wheel, four (4) rear remotes are required.

One other thing, if you read the manual carefully, it says "important ...you can leave off the toplink when using the gauge wheel" ...perhaps it means to say, you should/must disconnect the top link. In fact, if you can visualize the geometry, when I lower the gauge wheel to keep the blade just above the surface (as for snow on gravel drive) the gauge wheel fights the top link. I don't want to disconnect the top link because I need it to get the height in travel/carry condition. A chain would work, I suppose, but I have T&T and want to keep the hydraulic top link. My solution is to use a swinging top link in between ...in fact, it is the top link adapter part often discussed with respect to the Harbor Freight quick hitch ...and, that bit of play seems to do the trick.

Incidentally, in terms of bells and whistles, I also have the cushion valves on power angle and offset, which is kind to both the tractor and the blade ...gives a little relief when the wanna-be-unstoppable tractor encounters the wanna-be-immoveable rock.

 

[jgrreed]

Hi,

I had my first experience last week moving snow with my back blade. The was ~ 6 to 8" of fairly dry, light snow. I have a 7' blade from agrisupply, with maybe 12" of height, certainly no more. It worked great, and 'rolled' the snow really nicely. I drew my toplink a bit forward so that the blade was leaned a bit forward. I do all my plowing forward at a fairly good clip, maybe between 3 and 5mph. When I built up a good sized furrow it put my 4720 (58hp) to work, even in 4wd. It didn't throw me around, but I could definitely feel it. With the blade angled ~30deg the 'short' side still covered my tracks, so I dare say that a 2x20 JD's tracks would be covered by a 6' blade. I dunno what a huge dump will do (>12"), I geuss we'll see later this winter....

Be careful plowing backward, 3pt hitch arms are meant to be strong in tension, not compression, and the last thing you need is a bent arm.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it. The only downside is that now I want top n' tilt, and hydraulic angling on my blade and landscape rake!! That's gonna cost me....

-J.

 

[JackMentink]

Well, I went ahead and ordered the RBT3584, I'll let you know how things turn out. I got the hydraulilc offset and angle, and ordered a set of skid shoes. I find shoes pretty important for plowing on gravel roads, at least without reversing the blade. I'll go ahead with the gauge wheel once the weather breaks in the spring and I can start with road maintenance.

We typically don't see more than 6-8" at any one snowfall, but it's often pretty wet and heavy. I'm hoping that the offset helps me wing back berms and keep a place to put the miserable white stuff. JB, that blade is reversable. With respect to the low mold board height, we'll hope for the best. I may have to add a wing or extension at the ends. This would make reversing the blade a pain though.

I used a 6' front blade on my current tractor, it was only 12" high, too short for snow removal. In addition, it was barely as wide as the tractor, I drove too close to the edge of the low side of the road and got stuck several times-still have a big dent in the back of my P/U from where the strap broke when trying to yank it out. I'm really hoping the offset capability of the rear blade helps out, keeping me more centered in the roadway. I didn't like the front blade for doing a length of road, it had a real tendency to dig in, and would stop the tractor RIGHT NOW, can't be good for the loader. I was nice though for smaller areas or a parking lot, where you had to push the length of an area and then up a pile.

I figure on chaining up the front tires to keep from getting kicked around so much, may have to go ahead and buy rear chains too. I'd hope to avoid that, both due to expense and the PITA of chaining up.

I am looking at one like this and wondered How much did it cost?

 

[brianidaho]

I am looking at one like this and wondered How much did it cost?

Jack, my dealer quoted $2295 for the blade with hydraulic angle, offset and tilt. $595 more for the hydralic gauge wheel. I'm in an area that seems to be high priced on tractors, depending on where you are you might do better.

After reading some of these comments I'm wondering if I should have a bigger tractor. I didn't have much of an issue with a 6' blade on my current tractor (27 engine HP and light weight), I figured the 3240 would be OK with the 7' one. I'll know next week I guess.

 

[djradz]

Hi,

I had my first experience last week moving snow with my back blade. The was ~ 6 to 8" of fairly dry, light snow. I have a 7' blade from agrisupply, with maybe 12" of height, certainly no more. It worked great, and 'rolled' the snow really nicely. I drew my toplink a bit forward so that the blade was leaned a bit forward.
-J.

I'm sure others have had differing experiences, but I've found that, opposite to what might be common belief, shortening the top-link causes the blade to dig better. Sometimes this is essential, such as when the snow has gotten packed down or is icy, but otherwise can cause too much digging, like into unfrozen ground or into a stone topping on your drive. I believe what happens is the blade front edge acts just like a razor, and shaves the surface of whatever you are plowing. Lengthening the top-link puts the blade "back on it's heels" and causes the blade to skim the surface more.

 

[brianidaho]

Well, I've had the rig for about a week now, and we've had plenty of snow to try it out, figured it's time for an update. One note, it's been cold this week (-10 to 15 above) so the snow has been dry and light, not typical for this area.

First use we had about 12", and the dealer forgot to bring the skid shoes when the tractor was delivered. Things didn't work real well, the blade is heavy enough that even with the top link set pretty short it wanted to dig, took a lot of power and traction to get the job done. I got the skids on over the weekend, night and day difference. I was able to adjust the top link so that the angle axis of the blade is vertical, so that when it's angled it is still level. The blade works very well, it's heavy enough that it cuts down to base well, and with the skid shoes it pulls pretty easy.

As to the hydraulic offset, it's great, the blade probably swings 2-3 ft either side of the rear tire with the blade angled to a suitable degree to plow snow. In deep snow this lets me keep the tires in a plowed area and still make decently wide passes. The key thing is that I can drag snow "up" onto the road from the high side of the road without running the tractor wheels right on the ditch, and work it off to the low side. Then, on the low side the offset lets me reach off the edge of the road without dropping the tractor off. Plus, a pass with the blade offset and raised allows "winging" off the tops of berms, widening the effective area to put more snow.

As everyone that plows comes to find out, you gotta have some where to push the stuff. I find that using the FEL every 100 feet or so to open up some holes in the berms still helps a lot, it gives the snow somehere to "drop" off the blade, rather than just going along for the ride once the berms build up.

The weight of the tractor seems to be OK, I get tossed around some when I get a big pile on the blade, but not badly. Traction is an issue, plowing up even a fairly gentle grade doesn't work well. I need to find my chains and try them out on the front tires, depending on how things go I may need to spring for a set of rears too. We'll see how it goes as the winter progresses.

As to general observations of the blade, it's a tank, very beafy and heavily built, I expect it will last me a good long time. Reversing the blade takes maybe 30 seconds, it's very simple. My only slight complaint is with the geometry, with the top link properly adjusted there isn't alot of travel (lift) left on the 3-pt, I can only raise it 4-6" off the ground.

As to the tractor, I really like the HST Plus, the autothrottle makes operation very simple, especially with the FEL. I'm concerned about power though, I ran down to a neighbors place in high range on the (gravel) road, I can feel the lack of power and loss of speed on grades, we have some pretty decent hills around here. This is less noticable in "working" ranges. Being new, I'm taking it pretty easy, I hope that as I can work it more and get the engine loostened up that the power increases.

Thanks for the input.

Bri

 

[Ductape]

We'd love to see pics of it......... especially action shots!

 

[Hammy]

From my experience, the tractors don't like going up hills much in high gear. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I guess they aren't made for speed, just downshift and drive a little slower. I'm sure it will pull like crazy in low gear.

I would love to see some pic's of your set up as well. I want that back blade.

Craig

 

[djradz]

My only slight complaint is with the geometry, with the top link properly adjusted there isn't alot of travel (lift) left on the 3-pt, I can only raise it 4-6" off the ground.


Bri

Brian, I understand what you are saying as far as the "geometry", so that when you angle the blade it will continue to sit level and not gouge at the leading or trailing edge, but lift of only 4"-6" seems extreme. I would think you would have had to have your top link almost at it's maximum to get such poor lift limitation, and I just can't visualize why that sort of adjustment would be necessary. Maybe I'm missing something? I guess I could see such an instance if the tractor was relatively small and the lower links originate at a point low on the axle and so they already are lifted up (say, rather than level) in attaching to the blade's pins. If that is the case, then the upper link would have to be extended long to keep it level.

... ah, pictures, did any one say how we love pictures?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

... ah, pictures, did any one say how we love pictures?

Yes, I think that everybody agrees, we need some pictures of this set up.