Woods 96" grader blade...I think

[shooterdon]

My buddy and I bought the above blade at an auction. It is quite rusty so I am not 100% sure it is a Woods.

Anyway, it has hyrdaulic hoses that go to a box instead of directly to the cylinders. I assume the box helps with releasing pressure if an obstruction is hit. All the hoses are weathered and need to be replaced. Any reason I cannot connect the rear remotes directly to the cylinders? I have a drive to grade without stumps or rocks so no danger of hitting something large.

It also has a ratchet mechanism to adjust the tail wheel. It is rusted and does not move. Once I get the tail wheel adjuster fixed, what is the best way to set up the blade/tail wheel to address whoop-d-dos. I have undulations about 10-20 ft apart and it is like riding a roller coaster.

Thanks

 

[airbiscuit]

It sounds like you got a nice blade. Why not contact Woods customer support with your hydraulics question? Also please post a picture. I like rear blades with tail wheel set ups.

 

[Hay Dude]

My buddy and I bought the above blade at an auction. It is quite rusty so I am not 100% sure it is a Woods.

Anyway, it has hyrdaulic hoses that go to a box instead of directly to the cylinders. I assume the box helps with releasing pressure if an obstruction is hit.

Pressure relief valve. I’d leave it. A nice feature. If you want to use it for snow, it protects against damage from hitting ashphalt or concrete curbs.

All the hoses are weathered and need to be replaced. Any reason I cannot connect the rear remotes directly to the cylinders? I have a drive to grade without stumps or rocks so no danger of hitting something large.

No not at all, but I guess I’m wondering why you want to by pass it? What if it’s needed for a job later where obstructions could be hit.

It also has a ratchet mechanism to adjust the tail wheel. It is rusted and does not move. Once I get the tail wheel adjuster fixed, what is the best way to set up the blade/tail wheel to address whoop-d-dos. I have undulations about 10-20 ft apart and it is like riding a roller coaster.

Thanks

That is an operator experience issue that takes technique. I would say go slow at first and expect it to be a learning curve.

 

[airbiscuit]

For the whoops, the tail wheel is your friend. Angle your blade and have the right side dig in a bit, and have the left side just off the ground a bit (create a crown). Then go slow and watch your setting to take a bit off the high spots and deposit in the low spots. It won't get better with just one pass, but will improve with repetition.

 

[oosik]

I have a HD Rhino rear blade - w/o a tail wheel. It can be/is somewhat of a PITA to use on the whoop-te-doos on my mile long gravel driveway.

I offset and angle the rear blade. Clip a little gravel on the edge - grade it to the center. I use the rear blade if I need to restructure the crown or reduce the whoops. And for winter snow removal. I offset only because I want to stay away from the edge. I have a couple places on the driveway that have a significant dropoff. It's best to make multiple passes and only take a little each time. Patience and experience - it's a rather long learning curve.

Otherwise - I will use my LPGS with scarifiers to fix pot holes, riffles, etc.