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Check the cup at the end of that spool. Might have a broken spring, rust and full of junk.

Where did you get it from?

I would say the water got in thru the vent for rear end.

I would use 1/4", it slows it down a little.

Maybe this well help.

Have you checked the sump screen?

I forgot to say that the PTO on the 6100 might turn the wrong way, so check that out it seems like I read this some place.

My guess is new $3500, rebuilt $2100 to $2500, junk yard engine $1000 to $1500.

Sounds like the piston seals are bad on the left cyl.

Get one at least as wide as your tractor. If it is new ground you might have to go over it 2 or 3 times.

What is this? Right side of seat sq head plug.

To bad this valve is 25 GPM. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/3-Spool-25-GPM-Joystick-Loader-Valve-w-Grapple-Prince-HC-V-BP22-9-8217.axd

Could have adjustable relief valves in each spool, check that out.

Check the return spring in the cup end of that spool.

Try dropping the 3 point down a little.

What was you doing when it happened ?

Your B7200 tach and hour meter is cable driven.

Your 1st part is what he needs to do, it happened to me on my woods 990 and BX2660. It's a bear to pull it off of the shaft to sand clean. I had to make a puller just to pull one of them. Your post is a good one 100% right.

This might help you out some.

Should be a centering adjustment on it. Can you post a picture of it?

? what does a power beyond plug do, and where does it go? Are you talking about a fitting that makes a control valve power beyond.

Clean front heat exchanger if it has one.

Hydrostatic transmission might have a charge pump.

I know a guy that has 2 with the ford's in them that are his parts mowers. I don't know the models and not sure if he would sell parts. If you know the parts are the same I well give him a call.

Is the engine in yours a ford 4cyl gas ?

I'm with you !!! I would not even try it with a BX.

You can look here All States Ag Parts | Used & New Tractor, Combine & Skid Steer Parts They have 8 locations.

Do you have rear remotes?

Take a look at this. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/lk2610-rear-remotes.438189/

Try just little shot of air in the fill hole while running and 3pt lever 3/4 way up.

Check this out. https://qualityfarmsupply.com/collections/flow-restrictor-adapters

I have worked on both for 30+ years and a master mechanic on merc and a certified mechanic on volvo. I stopped working on boats in 2000. Super55 is right about certified mechanics are hard to find in some parts. I like the Mercruiser but the Volvo upper gear box is a lot better and harder to...

See if any of these well work. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Single-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/?page_no=1

Your 280 drive does have a reverse lock. Check it out real close and the end of push rod linkage is not able to move up and down.

Are you using cat 1 stabilizers on cat 2 tractor?

I have made 6 or 7 pairs and you should be just fine with the deep V weld.

I would make new ones... Make both sides while you at it.

3 pt safety valve might be open, try lowing the 3 pt if all the way up. If that works check the feed back linkage adjustment.

Heat like LD said and unscrew with a strap wrench.

OEM's are 3/8, but the dealer put 1/2" on because all my stuff is 1/2" couplers. You might want to look at this. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/lk2610-rear-remotes.438189/

i moved the filter and fuel pump up under my hood. Removed the oem filter before injector pump and added a filter with sight glass bowl and shut off . Ever thing all in one small spot.

Check the hyd trans screen, if it has one.

Can you feather the loader easy?

That sounds right. Put something in the bucket it well show more psi.

This link acted funny just search full time swivel.

Here you go!! https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/shop?Search=swivel+live I see what you are talking about.

I would say not good, they bend to easy.

I was talking about the one from amazon.

I don't think you well like that valve. No float, no load checks, and 21 gal pm and you tractor is 8 or 9 gal pm.

You said " leaking yellow fluid" , What is that? Sounds like water in the oil to me.

If you have a brake light you have a switch.. Find that and hook into it, put any 12V light where you want it. I tried the buzzer and that well drive you nuts. I wired a 12V 2 pin flasher and put the light up where I would see it.

Here you go.

I forgot one other thing, If your 445 has a hyd pickup screen check that.

I would also check the fuel and air filters. If you have changed hyd filter to after market you might want to get a JD one.

If your feed back lever slides on a rod, grease that rod.

If you have a welder and a drill press they are real easy to make. All you have to buy are the ends and metal.

What do you mean by that?

If it comes down to the hyd pump, I have one I'll sell you.

May I add drop the 3pt down a little if all the wat up.

Here is good link for restrictor fittings. https://brennaninc.com/fittings/tube-fittings-and-adapters/1404-r/

I have a hand pump for 5 gal. buckets that I use.

I checked the parts manuals on both and the engine I have well NOT work. Sorry for getting your hopes up.

Does your hyd pump mount to the engine, if not I might be able to help. The big thing is the shipping.

1st thing I would do would be to make sure the screen in the trans is clean and put a new oem filter on.

Are you saying the ball joints are coming off of the studs?

Old and tired. That is the right one now. I was going say something before, glad I read all posts before I said anything.

With you only moving 100' I tell you a tree puller works real good. I know it's only one at a time. but it well shock you on the short time it takes. Not only you can stand it up or lay down, also hold it to cut up. or make a hell of a big pile. Just make sure you have weight on the back.

try a air chisel with a flat end.

Also show a good picture of the loader valve.

He said it is working now. Sounds like he does not have PB fitting in the new valve.

Sounds like it needs a good grease job.

If you can't get to it the best thing to do is wait until you get the cover fixed.

I had 950 and the lever under the seat was about 1 or1 1/2" long. I ran mine full open or straight up, If I remember right the manual said it was warmup for the hyd oil in cold weather. Keep in mine I had the JD in the early 80's so I might not be 100% sure.

Are you calling the loader control valve (joy stick) a control block??

Try here Surplus Center

There should of been a recall on them!!!! What would of happened if someone got killed because of one braking that easy and often.

The very 1st TV I seen was Felix The Cat back in the 40's.

If you have float on your valve, push the lever into float.

I would buy a new rockshaft housing and repair the 2 bottom casting bolt holes. You better check the 3 pt piston and make sure the relief valve (safety valve) is set right .

Check and make sure you are getting good flow in and out at the filter. Could have a fuel line braking up inside.

Check seat switch

I don't know how a hydraulic self leveler works, but that is where I would be checking the hose routing.

Does the boom lift ok?

Check and see if there is a screen in the oil sump.

I used one of these Hydraforce 12 Volt DC NC Solenoid Valve SV10-22-0-N-00 | Solenoid Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com Teed at the trailer coupler, drilled hole in the same mounting bracket and put a coupler with thru wall fitting. ran a hose down to loader...

If I remember right, after the front pin is out it well move fwd enough to get the rear off after the pin is out at the rear. I well go back and look at my pictures and see if that helps me to remember. Update: There is a coupler at front of the main drive shaft. The cover over shaft comes...

Have you checked the couplers? If a male coupler is on the tractor side it might not getting opened with the female coupler.

See if the couplers are in the spot, could be mixed up.

I don't know your tractor so I would have to see parts manual to help much. I don't know what I'm looking at in your pictures. If it is a vent hole it could drip for a while from being plugged and a build up of oil. If keeps dripping that's not good, could be a rear main seal.

Check your feed back rod adjustment.

Are you sure you are looking at the trans or the bell housing? If it's the bell housing that hole would be a vent hole.

Make sure 3pt not all the way up, relief valve stuck open.

Does that piston have a blind hole in the side of it??

You do not have the lever I was talking about.

Some of the older IH had a lever on the left to switch the hyd flow from front to back. That is why I posted that.

Is there a lever on your left side? If so try moving it and see if that does it.

Sounds like to me his valve is not returning to center, check springs.

Show a picture of the valve you are looking at.

Where at in MO ?

I think you did right and that tractor was made from 1983 to 1990 so a lot of the parts are NLA. The young man might end up something that he well not be able to fix. It would also make me feel better about the 3500. I wonder how long he had been saving. What size were the bills ? Some $5 mixed...

Here you go. Ball Joint Boots & Tie Rod End Boots

Try this 1st, take loader all the way up and dead head it for a few sec. That well flush the relief valve, maybe something got it stuck open.

Try shifting into N and see it goes up. might be trying to pull the tractor fwd.

If he gets it I would like to see it set up to do 2 rows. I just don't think it well work for him, maybe we well see. Sure he can set it to go down the middle of a row and that is it. Those thing are not hard to make and for less money and have a nice 2 rower.

"I'm looking to pull behind my 48HP compact tractor. I'd be straddling two rows" His quote, and its a one rower.

I don't think that well work, even you set your 3pt way to one side. Just not enough adjustment to do that.

Did you read roadworthy post?

You should maybe check the speed governor. If it a manual governor a spring might be broken or coming unhooked.

That is what I did on all of mine.

Sure is a nice job. You well love it.

i would just drill new holes in the lower links.

You can't adjust the ones in the picture without taking them loose.

The control valve has 2 spools that move in and out to control flow. At the end there is a cover that looks like a can. It has 2 to 4 screws holding them on, also some valves they unscrew. In the can there are springs for returning to center and 3 or 4 balls if you have float. Best for you...

Sound like the spool isn't returning the center just right. Check linkage adjustment and the can at the bottom side of spool.

See there is a jacuzzi mfg. near you and ask if you can get one before they driil the holes. Or one right out of the mold, might even be able to get a 2nd.

Might want to check the load checks in the control valve and check the quick couplers, might have a bad one.

Are you saying you have not changed the hyd oil or filters in a few years?? BTY you have some hoses mixed up.

Move your lever to hard right and see if it moves then. You have 3 different points with the lever.

That valve does not have float for you boom.

Better reroute the hose on the top link. Hose well not last long that way and also could break the fitting at the cyl.

post a picture of the rod end cap. I think that is what you wanting to know, how to get rod and piston out.

I'm running R4 tires and it doesn't even slow down in high gear going up my hill. The B7800 would slow down quit a lot. The guy up the road his hill is real steep. The 7800 i have to us M range just get up it, but the LX goes up it H range and it does slow down a little. Have you got the R14's ?

Well you guys that did not work for me. Tried many different ways but it was a no go. Thanks ,but well keep trying.

Not in and out, you can not turn it to line the splines up.

I give you my review on LX2610. I sold my B7800 and got the LX2610, not real sure yet if that was wise move yet. The 7800 was all set up with all the things I liked, now have to rework the LX. The LX seems to have a good match with the gearing and HP, it seems to have more power then the...

Sounds like the trans. screen is stopped up.

Check this out. Kubotabooks.com

To get the piston back in you can cut a pop can and make guide sleeve.

ok, what's up?

I had a 950 and there was lever under the set that could be moved side to side and it would stop the 3 pt . I think it talked about it in the manual about warming up the oil in cold weather. Might check yours.

On my GL there is a rubber hose on the pump intake side on the right side right where goes thru the fire wall. If it gets cracks or pin holes it well suck air and not leak. I'm not sure if the 6060 has a rubber hose.

If you have 2 sets of remotes are you pared up with just one spool ?

"brand new oil filter" There is where I would start.

I wonder if you could take the guts out of the 2nd part of the detent that ptsg showed.

Check left fender down near the floor.

Your tractor looks to be a 2 WD you might need power steering if you do not have it.

Here is the info you are looking for. Make sure read what else you have to add to have ever thing that goes with it.

You could get you electric fitting lock nut and use that to put it in the place .

Does each spool have a adjusting relief valve??

Can you just tilt the top mount link fwd just so it well clear?

I would say the left is the right one , just on the wrong side and should be flipped end for end. The right side is the wrong arm.

Better check and make sure the pto turns right for the blower.

Why not try pushing against a tree ?

Check tank vent, if it has one.

See your post.

Unhook the rod end of cyl from loader. Unhook base end hose then plug the cyl and hose. Put hyd pressure on rod end and if rod end moves out the piston seals are bad. Do both cyls.

I think it is retaining ring in place of a snap ring. Works and put together like the end on a starter drive.

(I also want to build some fork slots so that I can lift it with my forks to move it around without attaching it to the QH.) J like that and well do.

Done it many times on a 950 I had. They would glaze up, the boss (shaft the shoes rest on) has two settings you can set. So take a good look at it. I did not have to remove the wheel.

Here you go. surplus center part # 931-2224 for about $12.00

Your brakes must be dry brakes, mine are all wet brakes.

I well take your old one and pay for shipping.

How is the brakes on your tractor? Looks like they are braking up.

Better read post 2

Just how mush are you asking for the tractor?

Take glow plug out and put a finger over hole. Bump over engine and when it blows your finger off, then turn my hand until timing marks line up. Adjust #1 cyl and go on from there.

Well it looks like I was right in my 1st post. Just have something to talk about. Everyone is around the old wood stove having there chat of the day.

I would not call it a gate yet. Just a spot for a gate later on. Or it could be something for people to talk about. Like what in he## is that guy thinking?? He must be nuts.

You 2 are both right in away. Short as the tubing is on this cyl is ok but when you get a long tubing then it dose neat a way for movement.

The hoses going to the coupler might be pushing on something when pressure is put on them. moving the hose back just enough to only be half hooked up.

I don't want to be a smart a#s but did you have math in school??

The top link at the tractor does not look right. Did you add something there. The top link could go in a lower hole at the tractor. The braces going to back of the mower could be moved to the other holes and that well pull the top of 3pt top link back. Can the lower link arm hook ups move up and...

Change your filter and check the pickup screen if it has one.

Can you tell if the pump is even turning? If not pull the pump and check drive coupler and pump shaft.

look at link bcp put up.

Take a 1/4" x 2" bend into a < and a > weld a chain on the top part of the <'s. Hook on the each end of drum and pick it up.

Here is how I did mine. The bottom part is a heavy spring. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/grabber-001-jpg.485002/

I cut my front mounting plate down the center and I can adjust one arm higher or lower and not bind it any.

How is hyd pump mounted?

I just use a rubber hose.

Check this out. National Quick Start Sales, High output alternator, Alternator & Starter Parts

You need a new ferrule, you might have to cut the old one off. Just go easy and not miss up the tube. If the tube is smashed you well have to put on a new tube.

No I don't know where the screen might be. Some tractor don't have one, but most do.

I use a air chisel with a flat chisel point. Has work on every pin I have used it on. You are going find that the hole under the grease fitting packed in there like a rock.

Yes and a plugged screen in the supply line.

I asked what covers and see now what was being talked about. I way off base from the post I put on earlier.

How I see what covers I think that girl has you covered on the whole system!!!!

"I pulled the inspection cover off and the lift lever doesn't move anything inside, like it's not working at all" What cover??

Unscrew the right side in the picture then slide the nut back. Then take a picture so people can what kind of fitting it is. I can think of 3 just off the top of my head.

Is that over spray in the 4th picture?

I'll see if I can get some others to tune in. This is a real shot in the dark, but here goes. Broken spool or leaking past real bad and the base in of the cyl over riding the rod end. Now is all you done was to R & R the pump and nothing else?

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Even if it wasn't going over center you still should have stops just before the cyl bottoms out. That way the piston isn't banging on front gland and wrecking it. I didn't like the single cyl so put 2 cyls and took off the single, also for other reasons.

Not sure, but I don't see why not give it a try.

Sounds like the hyd cyl is going over center. The pin holes are not the same as your bucket or there is no stops on the forks. Might have to weld you in some stops.

Some 3/4 ton pickups use rims that could fit, check some auto junk yards.

That is not a shear bolt. You do not put a shear bolt on that end of a pto shaft.

Check your oil level in the engine see if it is making oil. If it is it could be a seal in the injector pump. The only thing to make it make oil is the HYD pump and injector pump.

The knob is rate of drop, that's not what is wrong. The tank and PB lines are not right, the fitting must be wrong. Is the engine dropping rpm when you try and use the 3pt.and are any hoses moving at start up?

What kink of tires do you have?

Same thing here, but i have not got any letter.

I did a long write up on this with alot of pictures a while back, but with this new form I don't know how to get you to thread. Found it. Splitting A Kubota GL4240HST 4WD

Yes I do, put a tee in the line . Then a manual valve in the tee line and run back to the tank at the fill. On my dump trailer I use a 12v valve . The valve I use you can also use 120v ac coil. With the manual valve all you have to do is just open it and it well come down by itself, Just don't...

How big that cyl and rod?

If you have a boot over the loader control left it up and see something came loose.

I would keep the 5740 if you have had the trans and 4 wheel dive shafts seals replaced. If not then comes the big ??, take a chance that the 40 well not get a leak or keep the newer 60 and hope that kubota got that taken care of after the 40's. ???????

Auto parts has the relay.

I'm almost sure yanmar's are made in japan.

Look at your other post.

Your best would be to find the cyls real close to yours and get some DOM pipe the size you need for the ends. Take the new cyjs apart then have a welding shop weld on the new DOM pipe for the base mount and rod end.