48x39x14 shop build

/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#301  
Have you tried something like a LiftMaster 365lm? I have an older garage door opener that I got for free, but the receiver board appears to be bad. I installed one of those up next to it and it works well. If you where to put it further away from the lights such as by the door, or perhaps even up in the soffit it might do what you want to do without replacing any of your garage door hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-365LM-Security-Receiver-315Mhz/dp/B00283OBS4/

Aaron Z

I looked at this item. If the ferrites don't help I'll try one of these. None of my conversations with suppliere or Liftmaster mentioned this item. Thanks Aaron.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #302  
I would just change out those light fixtures to LED
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #303  
Try ferrite choke (not core) on the lights as noted, but not the one shown from Mcmaster. You see these on a lot of power cords for electronic devices. Digikey or Mouser or one of those type places.

ferrite core cable - Google Search

This should look familiar to you. The round thing on the cord is what you should try.

View attachment 583025

I use the snap on ferrites to cure my problems when I operated on my HF radio I would turn the light on as well as open the door at times! Solved the problem!
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Ferrite-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGEK


Yes, what these two gents said. I'm not an electrical guy and couldn't think of what they're called.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#304  
I would just change out those light fixtures to LED

In High Bay lights there are a lot of LED choices. Some reasonably priced, some not. Some use ballasts, some do not. Some LED bulbs are reasonably priced, some are not.

A Wrecker Service near me is completing their new shop. They used the same ballast fixtures that I have. They have LED bulbs. Immediately had bulb failures, lots of them. Finally converted the fixtures by removing the ballasts and buying expensive LED bulbs that have their starter self contained. Cured the bulb problem at a very high price. They have 7 Liftmaster openers. 5 along the South wall. 2 at each end of the North wall. The 2 at the North side act just like mine. The 5 along the South wall have short but tolerable range. Their problem is they talk to each other. Supplier/Installer is saying RFI.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#305  
Yes, what these two gents said. I'm not an electrical guy and couldn't think of what they're called.

I should have them on Thursday. I'll report my results.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#306  
Got them yesterday, installed today, no change.

Talked to an Electrical Contractor today. Said he has two buildings with same equipment, same problem.

One last thing I'm going to try. My shop is 35ft from my transformer and meter pad. They are grounded with a copper rod driven into the soil. I did not do that at my shop. Tomorrow I'll add a ground rod. I'll report my results.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#307  
I would just change out those light fixtures to LED

May end up there. Will that fix my problem?

Will cost me $500 to convert these fixtures to LED non-ballast. Would like to know that will fix this before spending that money. :)
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #309  
/ 48x39x14 shop build #310  
My openers and lights are hooked up, but they haven’t programmed the remotes yet. Should be able to see if there’s any difference in the next few days.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #312  
im not sure of the direction your heading on the light replacement or not. but if you're thinking of going LED you can just use something like these Robot Check and bypass the ballast in your current setup. At least this way you dont have to buy a whole new fixture. I did this in my shop and it was very easy to do and it gives of great light. Sorry if this was already discussed I looked at pics and jumped to the end.

Rust
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#313  
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#314  
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#315  
im not sure of the direction your heading on the light replacement or not. but if you're thinking of going LED you can just use something like these Robot Check and bypass the ballast in your current setup. At least this way you dont have to buy a whole new fixture. I did this in my shop and it was very easy to do and it gives of great light. Sorry if this was already discussed I looked at pics and jumped to the end.

Rust

Something similar will be used if I try converting. My lights are T5s. My builder says he just finished a large conversion project that rewires the fixture eliminating the ballast and replacing the bulbs. Said it cost $50 per fixture on 4 bulb units. Mine are 6 bulb. Figure $75 each. I've got 6.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #316  
I studied that too. I'm not sure I fully understand it but, here's my take. You are still switching the system off and on with a thermostat. The sensor is either hanging on the wall or in a conduit embedded in the concrete.

With a wall thermostat you are referencing room temp. A number that is familiar to us all. Adjust until comfort is attained.

With a concrete embedded thermostat you are measuring concrete temp. Adjust until the desired room temp is attained.

I was unable to learn why the concrete embedded method would be any better? Still relying on room comfort to make adjustments.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge and experience can chime in with more complete information?

With radiant heat, the air temperature can be substantially lower than with forced air. Comfort may be your ultimate guide, but things can affect that wall thermostat that won't affect a floor thermostat.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#317  
With radiant heat, the air temperature can be substantially lower than with forced air. Comfort may be your ultimate guide, but things can affect that wall thermostat that won't affect a floor thermostat.

Yep, I can see that.

I didn't embed a conduit. So I'm stuck with wall thermostat.

I'm wondering if I could put a clear plastic box over my thermostat that might protect the thermostat from a blast of cold air when the overhead door is fanned?

I've also considered moving the thermostat inside the bathroom/utility room. The heat system is in there. It's always a couple degrees warmer in there but would be more stable?

Again, I'm naive and don't have any comparables or experience with this system. I really like it. May be expecting too much from it.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #318  
Yep, I can see that.

I didn't embed a conduit. So I'm stuck with wall thermostat.

I'm wondering if I could put a clear plastic box over my thermostat that might protect the thermostat from a blast of cold air when the overhead door is fanned?

I've also considered moving the thermostat inside the bathroom/utility room. The heat system is in there. It's always a couple degrees warmer in there but would be more stable?

Again, I'm naive and don't have any comparables or experience with this system. I really like it. May be expecting too much from it.
I would recommend moving it into the utility room. Maybe even mount it by your heating system that way it would have the best constant heat source so it would not change much
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #319  
How bad is your temperature swing Richard?
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#320  
How bad is your temperature swing Richard?

Most I've saw is 4 degrees. It's always above therm setting. Seems worse on sunny days. I have 90 sqft of glass in windows and doors.
 

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