48x39x14 shop build

[Rustyiron]

Tomorrow I'll wrap my opener will aluminum foil and see what happens.

I got an aluminum foil hat I'd loan you to try out.

 

[dstig1]

Try ferrite choke (not core) on the lights as noted, but not the one shown from Mcmaster. You see these on a lot of power cords for electronic devices. Digikey or Mouser or one of those type places.

ferrite core cable - Google Search

This should look familiar to you. The round thing on the cord is what you should try.

 

[B7510HSD]

I use the snap on ferrites to cure my problems when I operated on my HF radio I would turn the light on as well as open the door at times! Solved the problem!
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Ferrite-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGEK

 

[ovrszd]

I got an aluminum foil hat I'd loan you to try out.

I'm almost to that point Eric.

Sadly, if I simply turn off the lights every time I exit the building everything is fine.....

 

[fordmantpw]

I tried Liftmaster antenna extenders which runs the antenna outside, no help.

I was going to suggest that, but if that didn't help, it has to be some interference with the opener itself. Getting the antenna outside should essentially shield it from the interference from the lights (one would think anyway).

Tomorrow I'll wrap my opener will aluminum foil and see what happens.

Ahh, the old tin foil hat trick!

 

[JHurt]

Jarid has the same openers, metal ceiling. Not sure what lights he's gonna have though. Anxious to see how his works.[/QUOTE]

Just got off the phone with my builder about the location of my lights on the south side. We both agreed the best location for light with the door up or down are going to be right beside the opener. I’m definitely a little apprehensive about it considering the issues that Richard is having, but really don’t have much of a choice. My lights are led fixtures, so it will be interesting to see how it plays out. Hoping to have the openers operational next week, so time will tell.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Consider going Wifi. We had similar issue.
the below is a 13 dollar relay that runs on your WiFi network.
https://www.amazon.com/WHDTS-Moment...TF8&qid=1544917705&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+relay
getting it on the network was easy.
then we used this app on our phone. It is EWelink
eWeLink - Apps on Google Play
you need 12 volt power supply, I used one I had laying around.
There is one draw back. You can only have the device on one account. You can have on more than one phone. But when you you use it it logs logs say your wife off her account. She than has to put the password in.
I just installed another in parallel. So, now we both stay logged in and no big deal.
Works slick!

 

[ovrszd]

Consider going Wifi. We had similar issue.
the below is a 13 dollar relay that runs on your WiFi network.
https://www.amazon.com/WHDTS-Moment...TF8&qid=1544917705&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+relay
getting it on the network was easy.
then we used this app on our phone. It is EWelink
eWeLink - Apps on Google Play
you need 12 volt power supply, I used one I had laying around.
There is one draw back. You can only have the device on one account. You can have on more than one phone. But when you you use it it logs logs say your wife off her account. She than has to put the password in.
I just installed another in parallel. So, now we both stay logged in and no big deal.
Works slick!

I hope we don't get to that, but maybe.

 

[goeduck]

Sadly, if I simply turn off the lights every time I exit the building everything is fine.....

Well I guess that settles it. :thumbsup:

 

[aczlan]

Have you tried something like a LiftMaster 365lm? I have an older garage door opener that I got for free, but the receiver board appears to be bad. I installed one of those up next to it and it works well. If you where to put it further away from the lights such as by the door, or perhaps even up in the soffit it might do what you want to do without replacing any of your garage door hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-365LM-Security-Receiver-315Mhz/dp/B00283OBS4/

Aaron Z