Advice on Grader/Scraper blade

[BMan2005]

Looking to upgrade to a Heavy Duty blade for my 60 hp NH Workmaster. Tractor is 4wd with a front loader and rear ballasted weighing around 8500-9000 lbs.

What I want, mechanical offset, tilt, & swivel. So I've looked at the Dirt Dog 70 series blades in a 8' wide blade. From my understanding Dirt dog makes this same blade for Bush Hog & Rhino in there 70 series. Does anyone have experience with these? And if so will it handle my tractor on a hang up without folding the blade? I've looked at hydraulic blades a little beefier but I really don't need to spend $2500+ right now.

 

[bcp]

Can't see all of the blade but it looks like at least one hydraulic cylinder could be added as needed at a later date, without having to make mounts. Are all the adjustments made with a cylinder substitute, like the swing?



Bruce

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Looking to upgrade to a Heavy Duty blade for my 60 hp NH Workmaster. Tractor is 4wd with a front loader and rear ballasted weighing around 8500-9000 lbs.

What I want, mechanical offset, tilt, & swivel. So I've looked at the Dirt Dog 70 series blades in a 8' wide blade. From my understanding Dirt dog makes this same blade for Bush Hog & Rhino in there 70 series. Does anyone have experience with these? And if so will it handle my tractor on a hang up without folding the blade? I've looked at hydraulic blades a little beefier but I really don't need to spend $2500+ right now.

You're looking for trouble to run that blade behind an 8-9000lb tractor IMO. Two things, it's not heavy enough to actually do much work other than snow and soft materials and if you were to get it caught on something, it would just fold up with that much weight pulling it. Ask Oosik about the differences.

Minimum rear blade IMO for your tractor would be in this category. Bush hog.

 

[rbtjr]

We have the 84" version of the heavy duty scrape blade from Everything Attachments. I have used it only once and then only in a light-duty job. However, it seems very sturdy to me. As I recall, this blade is rated for use with tractors up to something like 80 hp, but you can check that out on the EA web site if you are interested. I don't know what difference if any the weight of your tractor would make. If you call Travis at EA and tell him what you are looking for, he will give you good advice about their products.

 

[CADplans]

My 40 HP gas 2WD IH 404 destroyed my 6 foot Rhino blade,, at just above an idle,,,

You need a serious blade for a tractor that heavy,,,

 

[Turbys_1700]

I ran my inherited Rhino Super Utility Blade behind my Workmaster 50 with good results. That blade was made in the 60's I believe. It is 8 foot, weighs 760#, and is rated for a 120HP tractor according to Rhino literature. You need a blade in that weight range IMHO. The blade has a 3" kingpin with multiple adjustments.

 

[BMan2005]

That's what I was afraid of is it would still possibly not be hefty enough. After that size with offset I start getting into some serious money. With our newly purchased farm I'm dumping money on to many things to justify a new $3500 blade. I may watch the auctions for a good used one in that class.

I can get a LMC TLHD blade that is built to handle my tractor for $1100 but it doesn't have offset and for pulling ditches I feel like I'll regret not getting a blade with offset.

 

[Turbys_1700]

Yes. You need offset. My Rhino has over 30 adjustments. I don't have top and tilt but the balde is a monster. I'm anxious to see how the 75 does with it. I can barely cover my tracks. The previous owner used it to round bale and set the rears out to the max. That's right at 90 inches.

 

[BMan2005]

Found this John Deere 155 at a auction yard. They are asking $1500 for it. Needs some TLC but they said it's solid and everything works like it should. He offered to hook it up for me to inspect it which I would. Don't mind the surface rust, I can repaint it & I know those old 155 blades were stout. Does the price sound fair?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Found this John Deere 155 at a auction yard. They are asking $1500 for it. Needs some TLC but they said it's solid and everything works like it should. He offered to hook it up for me to inspect it which I would. Don't mind the surface rust, I can repaint it & I know those old 155 blades were stout. Does the price sound fair?

Take a very close look at that blade. If I'm not mistaken, it only offsets to one side without having to change the cylinder to the other side. And I think that it only tilts in one direction. The blade angle is manual, to me that would be the most important function to have hydraulic.

 

[BMan2005]

It does only offset one direction without swapping the cylinder over, but tilts both directions. I would prefer manual offset over manual angle, but it's not a killer for me considering the robust of the blade and price. I'm in the middle of paying off our new farm and building a house and any thing spent on implements or work on the farm is paid up front out of pocket so I'm having to look at things with function and price in mind until we get settled in and more funds are available. A $4500+ blade isn't in the cards right now. Mostly what I'm needing out of it is it to be stout enough to use pulling ditches and building our new drive way behind my tractor that if I find and old stump I don't fold up the blade. Appreciate the advice!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It does only offset one direction without swapping the cylinder over, but tilts both directions. I would prefer manual offset over manual angle, but it's not a killer for me considering the robust of the blade and price. I'm in the middle of paying off our new farm and building a house and any thing spent on implements or work on the farm is paid up front out of pocket so I'm having to look at things with function and price in mind until we get settled in and more funds are available. A $4500+ blade isn't in the cards right now. Mostly what I'm needing out of it is it to be stout enough to use pulling ditches and building our new drive way behind my tractor that if I find and old stump I don't fold up the blade. Appreciate the advice!

COOL, Good to know that it at least tilts to both directions. :thumbsup:

 

[Redlands Okie]

If you buy a used one with hydraulics be sure to flush out the lines really well. The pictures of the one you posted show why. In this case the hose ends are in the sand. Never know how they have been stored. Best to be safe.

That blade looks nice and would be easy to have mounts welded to it if you needed to install or swap one of the cylinder to the angle function.

 

[BMan2005]

If you buy a used one with hydraulics be sure to flush out the lines really well. The pictures of the one you posted show why. In this case the hose ends are in the sand. Never know how they have been stored. Best to be safe.

That blade looks nice and would be easy to have mounts welded to it if you needed to install or swap one of the cylinder to the angle function.

I'll check it over good this week and if I did buy it I will keep that in mind on flushing the lines. My dealer told me the best way to keep a happy hydraulic system was using only my own implements with my own clean fluid in them when hooked up. I can see what he means.

 

[BMan2005]

I've tried finding some literature on the blade for specs and can't. But the new Industrias America 165 is an exact clone and that blade is rated for 100-150 hp. Do you see this blade being to much for my tractor to handle? I operate my stuff with care, but I don't want the size and weight of a scrape blade to cause damage to my tractor, at the same time I need it to hold up in case of a snagged stump.

 

[oosik]

Well - my tractor is very close to the size and weight of the OP's. Roughly 9000 pounds without the rear blade and 10,100 with the rear blade.

My driveway is a mile long gravel with just enough fines that it "dries out" about this time of year and becomes hard as 30 year old concrete.

I have an excellent Land Pride RB3596 that weighs 566 pounds and is perfect for plowing snow in the winter.

In the summer when my driveway hardens up - its an amusement toy - drive down the driveway after sunset and watch the sparks fly off the blade as it bounces down the driveway behind my tractor.

Even with my Fit Rite hydraulic top link I can not get an angle that will make this blade cut into the surface. Several posts suggested that I NOT add weight to the Land Pride rear blade for fear of over stressing the frame.

Soooooo - - I bit the bullet and went for a truly heavy - and expensive - rear blade. I had to do something because my driveway needed serious work on the ditches and crown.

I bought a Rhino 950 rear blade. Its a 96" blade - weight is 1050 pounds and I chose no hydraulics. My one rear unit is used for the hydraulic top link.

There is ABSOLUTELY no question about what is going to happen when I lower THIS blade on my driveway. The beautiful thing is how much control I have over the cut and depth of cut. The weight keeps it down without any jitters, vibration, waffling, washboarding etc, etc. I do have to be careful - if I make to aggressive an angle and simply drop the blade - it will cut and go down, down, down until you are no longer moving and all four are digging.

With the Land Pride I'm able to "nudge" it into place to make 3-point connection. With the Rhino - thank God for my 3-point arm extensions. Even with my big 'ol pry bar I'm unable to "nudge" this monster anywhere.

Now the great part - - The Rhino 950 without hydraulics was - - $3295 when I bought it last year(2017).

My only regret - - I should have bought the Rhino in 2009 when I bought my new Kubota rather than hoping that the Land Pride would do the job in the summer.

View attachment 559961 This isn't the best picture - its the only one I can find in my fantastic picture filing system - at this moment.

 

[BMan2005]

The John Deere 155 Blade is 10 foot so I'm afraid that will be to big.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Saw or cutting torch will shorten it right up

 

[BMan2005]

Saw or cutting torch will shorten it right up

I'm handy with that and a welder to cap the ends back on the blade. But is that honestly an option without any negative's to the blade?

** Edit **. Looked at the blade and just not the route I want to go. The blade was a beast though!

 

[BMan2005]

Ok guys, change of pace with things now. I've decided to go the new route and buy the blade with all mechanical to help cost and upgrade hydraulics along the way. My dealer is pricing all of these except the Allied Farm King, and all 8 foot.
I listed dirt dog with bush hog and rhino because he said dirt dog makes those blades for all of them and he can get it slightly cheaper.

Dirt Dog/Bush hog 91-08 (Rhino 850)--- 825 lbs.

Rated for 4wd 70 hp PTO, 3/8" mold board & 3" king pin.

Dirt Dog/Bush hog 100-08 (Rhino 950)--- 835 lbs. I assume that is the weight without tilt, angle, and offset cylinders.

Rated for 4wd 105 hp PTO, 3/8" mold board, 3" king pin.

Monroe Tufline GB5---- 1190 lbs.

Rated for 85 hp, 3/8" mold board, 3" king pin

Allied Farm King 100 series ---- 1287 lbs. I priced both the 80 series and 100 series,. The 80 series weighs 980 lbs but has a 1/4" mold board and I'm afraid it will be the weak point. But I'm afraid the 100 is getting slightly to big for my tractor.

Rated for 100 hp (had a disclaimer that is a very conservative #), 5/16" mold board, 3.5" king pin.


Overall not sure which to chose & hope the price will help weight out which blade to buy for what it has to offer. My dealer says the Dirt dog 91 series (rhino 850) is all I would ever need. But if the price isn't very different I may step up one more size. I know Oosik is very happy with his Rhino 950 with a tractor very similarly sized to mine.

Btw, I only left land pride out because my dealer claimed he could get these a little cheaper and he carries Land Pride. Appreciate all the help guys, hope to have a decision soon, feel free to weigh in. Thanks to