Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments

[dustycoyote]

The only time effective way to deal with stumps is park the KX-040 and get on something bigger. View attachment 763429View attachment 763430View attachment 763431

that last pic is pretty cool...

 

[rScotty]

Ok. Understanding a little of what you're saying on the round tines version vs the "normal" ones.

And thanks for the note on the sizing. that makes a lot of sense. The max width of the tractor I'm looking at is about 64 inches, so I am thinking a 60 inch rock bucket then??

And I did a little research and watched some videos on rock buckets last night. Seems like I would want to get a Rockbucket/Grapple combo attachment. Rather than a separate grapple.

Since I'm not clearing fields for planting, I'm not expecting rock clearing to be a large part of what I'm doing. But a rock bucket with small or no sides, and with the grapple included, seems like it would solve quite a few problems for me and let me use one attachment rather than switching between several. I'd think I would want SOME side walls, even if just in the back of the bucket if I can find one like that.

What do you think about doing a version with no or little sides? I looked at the Stinger ROG bucket with grapple last night (simply because a guy that lives in my area did a really useful review of this companies model)
https://stingerattachments.com/buy/skid-steer-rock-grapple-open-sides/#
Doesn't have the round tines and is pricey, but is an example of what kind of a design I'm talking about.

The 60" sounds about right. And I think you are exactly right that the rockbucket/grapple combo would be the thing to have rather than a separate grapple. I believe that anytime you use the rockbucket you will find that the grapple is useful too. And by mounting the grapple to the rockbucket you have the material bucket open without the interference of the grapple. Best of both worlds.

BTW, most FEL standard dirt buckets give a choice of a standard or heavy duty bucket. If you have the option, you want the heavy duty front bucket with a bolt-on cutting edge and definitely must have SSQA. Don't forget the loader itself must have a 3rd function for the grapple. You order than when you specify the loader you want. Your LS offers two slightly different loaders.... what is the difference?

For that dirt bucket will also want some chain hooks properly reinforced and mounted to the top lip of the bucket. Rather than welding those on, I prefer to buy a set of (5/16"?) bolt-on stye with reinforcing pad from any of several fabricators here on TBN. I have 3 on my bucket. One a foot in from the each end and one on center.
And then you will want some chain. 12 feet of 1/4 inch link in grade 80 or 100 is a handy size. Light enough and flexible enough to use for most things. It should have a 1/4" grab hook with safety clip on each end. If you are feeling flush, get two identical chains.

On the Stinger ROG that you mentioned I looked and kind of like the open sides. Even open like that it should be more than strong enough and simple enough to add some sides if needed. I also like that the two grapples are quasi-independent. In fact, I wouldn't mind if the two grapples were completely independent - although that would require another control valve after the 3rd function switch.
However, I do wish his grapples were more see-through. I understand why they aren't , but visibility when grappling is everything. So When I do get a grapple - sometime in the next year, I hope - I will be looking for one that is more open and has more visibility in the front so I can pick up small things like rocks as well as logs. Plus it has to mount on my favorite rock bucket. I have seen some grapples that are universal mount and will fit any bucket. Yes, I'm being picky and so will you once you work on your land for awhile.

But there are options, and probably a dozen small outfits all making and selling good grapples at roughly the same prices. I like them all, and there sure are some nice choices. It's a hot market, since for our buddies that live in the hardwood forests to the east and south of us couldn't do much on their land without a grapple to get into thickets. For them it is an everyday tool and they use a root digging bottom for their grapple too - which is something that us western mountain folk don't have much use for - us having so little brush. Maybe we will get some input there, too.

Your FEL will come with a pretty good general purpose bucket, so with that and the bucket hooks and a chain or two you will have something that works for awhile.

Good to hear you are having fun with this.

rScotty

 

[alexpops]

One thing to keep in mind. If you have the LL4106 Loader, it can lift 2680 to full height (at the pin). Any weight you have in the actual implement (regular bucket/rock bucket/grapple/etc.) takes away from your "load" capacity. Also, the loader weighs about 800 lbs empty vs 4k on the tractor. If the BH is on all the time, and you have loaded rears it'll be decent counterweight, but I can't find the weight of the BH. On my xr4150, she NEEDS counterweight as she'll get front heavy & tippy quick with a heavy load off the FEL & no counter balance. NOT good for the front axles & a "pucker" moment when you feel the rears lifting. I went with a lighter weight root grapple to let me load it more.

 

[dustycoyote]

One thing to keep in mind. If you have the LL4106 Loader, it can lift 2680 to full height (at the pin). Any weight you have in the actual implement (regular bucket/rock bucket/grapple/etc.) takes away from your "load" capacity. Also, the loader weighs about 800 lbs empty vs 4k on the tractor. If the BH is on all the time, and you have loaded rears it'll be decent counterweight, but I can't find the weight of the BH. On my xr4150, she NEEDS counterweight as she'll get front heavy & tippy quick with a heavy load off the FEL & no counter balance. NOT good for the front axles & a "pucker" moment when you feel the rears lifting. I went with a lighter weight root grapple to let me load it more.

The BH is about 1000 to 1100 lbs, and I do plan to have it on the machine unless there's a reason to take it off, so it's a great counter weight, but maybe more reason to get the tires filled...

 

[dustycoyote]

And, just asking again if anyone can direct me where to go to get a smaller BH bucket? Also for a cutting blade for the loader bucket?

And someone mentioned going to a hydraulic shop to get the third remote added to the rear or the third function added for the FEL? I hate to pay dealership rates if it's avoidable.

How do I go about finding a hydraulic shop?

 

[alexpops]

Check summit hydraulics for the third function kit and rear remotes. Self install, or take to hydro shop.

Local hydraulics shop ... yellow pages.

If you have a new holland dealer near you, they may have a bh bucket that fits from the boomer line. Otherwise ... LS, or measure your 24" bucket attachment (pin diameter/length/spacing) & start calling around to places that sell new/used bh buckets. Or check out fabricators/welders in you area to make you one using the bigger bucket's attachment set up as a template.

Check out the pirranha tooth bar for your FEL.

 

[rScotty]

And, just asking again if anyone can direct me where to go to get a smaller BH bucket? Also for a cutting blade for the loader bucket?

And someone mentioned going to a hydraulic shop to get the third remote added to the rear or the third function added for the FEL? I hate to pay dealership rates if it's avoidable.

How do I go about finding a hydraulic shop?

First, what is the dealership rate for adding a 3rd function?
Then compare from what I'm going to write below to see if the price makes sense.

Also while you ae there, find out from the dealer if the FEL hydraulic control valve has a Power Beyond (PB) port. If so, it will be blocked off and have a block off sleeve inside.

THe easiest way for a hydraulic shop to provide an extended function will be to connect to that PB port and to do so they will also need from the dealer the other PB sleeve. There is a special sleeve (comes with the control valve from the manufacturer) that is used when a PB port is put into service i.e. no longer blocked off.
PB sleeves are specific to each brand and model of control valve.

Given those things, a hydraulic shop can add another control valve in series with your existing FEL valve. It means more hoses, disconnects, another control valve, and some plumbing. Roughly $400 to $600 in parts from the hydraulic shop plus their time putting it all together & fabricating mounts. Say a day of their shop time.

Every tractor dealer can direct you to a local hydraulic shop. Often they are located near ag dealerships and a lot of hydraulic shops don't advertise. The one I patronized was an old barn with a concrete floor, lots of large & spotless machine tools, surprisingly clean and bright inside, and staffed by half a dozen local farmers who worked there after hours & between tending their own farms. Always a treat to go there.

rScotty

 

[rScotty]

The BH is about 1000 to 1100 lbs, and I do plan to have it on the machine unless there's a reason to take it off, so it's a great counter weight, but maybe more reason to get the tires filled...

Backhoes make good counterweights but the weight is up high and tippy. You need weight low. Filled tires are a good solution and especially good if you are close to a tire shop to deal with flats. Flats on filled tires can be a problem. One solution is cast iron wheel weights & you may want to consider that. Nice but again, more expense.

Another solution is to make arrangements with a local Ag/industrial tire shop. They all have a service truck who will go anywhere rural & charge by the mile.

With a FEL, backhoe, torque wrench, & portable impact driver getting the wheel with a flat tire off is no problem. It is what to do next that needs to be thought through. Check your backhoe lifting specs and make sure that your intended backhoe can pick up a filled rear tire and put it into a trailer or truck. Otherwise call the service truck.

In remote areas where there is a lot of slope work the combination you often see is: Industrial R4 tires for width & sidewall stability, cast iron wheel weights, and sometimes even 2" rear wheel spacers. Most new tractors can be ordered with some of that combination over the years you will probably add the rest.
Luck,
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

BACKHOE BUCKETS:

1. did you decide on pin or QA for the bucket attachment method? The buckets are not interchangeable because the ears are different. Your dealer will sell ears that can be welded onto any bucket. If he doesn't, there are plenty of places that only make ears, and others that only make buckets.

2. There are a several small quality US manufacturers that make custom buckets to fit any hoe. Cost is less than dealers charge, or at worst no more.

3. One bucket will do to start. I rarely change my BH bucket & prefer the 12" wide one. It works in our soil best. lThe size depends on your hoe and your soil type. I'd say don't go over 18" or under 12" width for your everyday bucket.. If you have clay in your soil it can be hard to empty a 12" bucket. Sticks to the sides... And at 24" bucket we are getting too wide for cutting through soil if there are many rocks. I'd say 14 to 20 wide is the sweet spot on a small hoe. I lean more toward smaller rather than larger.

Get one that works with your BH thumb. If I were allowed only one luxury on the whole TLB, it would be a thumb on the backhoe. That's because we are old folks and use the backhoe far more for picking, placing, and side-sweeping than for digging. A backhoe saves your back on all kinds of lifting chores. However, a thumb does nothing for digging.

 

[leonz]

HI all,

I'm sure there have been 50,000 posts like this one posted over the years and just want to say thanks in advance to the community for being here to help people like me.

I'm about to purchase my first tractor and want to get some advice from those with knowledge/experience I don't have. I'll list out my situation and thoughts here as succinctly as I can, and then ask some questions. If there are things I should be considering or asking that I'm not, by all means, inform me.


I have a wooded property that we bought recently and need some equipment for various maintenance and improvements. We bought it purely as a recreational camping site for my family. No farming. No revenue will come from the tractor, so I am very sensitive to price. This is a spend on creating family experiences.

Mostly based on that cost sensitivity I've pretty much decided to go with an LS MT352. I was pretty shocked at how much better of a deal I can get it for than other comparable models from other vendors. TYM was pretty competitively priced with it, but I felt more comfortable with the LS for a lot fo reasons, not least of which because the dealer sells and services lots of LS's, but relatively few TYM's. I'd like thoughts of how appropriate this unit is for the situation I list out below.

The primary, and almost sole expected usage for the tractor will be earth moving. Part of the reason I was even able to afford the property is that it includes a large area that needs some serious cleanup and remediation. I will have to spend probably several years digging out a multi-acre area and removing earth from one area and using it to build up another.
My access to the land is over a 2 mile moutainous forest road that is only really an ATV trail right now. I will probably hire out for dozer work to do the initial road widening but will still need to do a lot of tractor work to clear areas, build good drainage, and maintain it over time. Several stretches of the road include pretty severe (to me) grades of up to around 20% that will need to be moderated and maintained so I can get a fifth wheel in to the property.

I will also be most likely putting in quite a bit of fencing ultimately. The land is pine and aspen forest covered everywhere except the areas that need the earth work. There are a few places where I will need to do some land clearing to add some roads and to make campsites. The property is moutainous so some of where I need to clear trails and work will be on hillsides.

I plan to buy a box blade for road maintenance as it seems to be the most versatile of the tools to shape and maintain a mountain road. I also will spend money to get forks as well as it just seems that everything I see online from tractor users kind of says that forks are just really super useful for a myriad of things.

Because of my usage needs, I figured it would be important to get a heavier frame compact tractor, but want it as small an overall size as possible in order to get into the trees as needed. I figured my priorities to be overall weight, frame strength, loader, and backhoe.

Because I'm a newb and will be using this for earth work primarily, I am planning to go with HST. Everything I read says this is what HST is designed for, I just need to get a powerful enough tractor to make up for any HST power loss (though I won't be using the PTO much really...)

I have a lot of deadfall so I think I'll use the forks at first but likely end up with a grapple over time, so I'll get a third function, or will get additional remotes on the back that I can run hoses from.

The land is pretty remote, with no structures or anywhere to take breaks, and a lot of the dirt I will be digging in will be dry and super dusty, so I am planning to get a cab.


So my questions are;


Backhoe -

• LS specs their compact tractors with 2 levels of backhoe. a 2100 series, and a 3100 series. The 2100 series is a foot shorter and rated for about 2700lbs of breakout force. The 3100 is rated for about 1000 lbs more breakout force. The MT352 I'm looking at has a 2100 series backhoe installed. Since this is a tool I expect to use a lot, I told them I would only buy it if they swapped that out for the 3100 series, which they are doing for me.
• I'm concerned by one youtube guys experience with this backhoe though, where the owner had continual serious failures using this backhoe.
• For anyone who is not familiar, this backhoe is not made by LS. It is the same backhoe that is on Kioti's, and some others. and that is what confuses me. I haven't really read any bad reviews from Kioti owners or others. Definitely not the at the level of failures that this guy expereinced (like structural problems, etc.)
• Anyone have any experience with the LS/Kioti backhoes?

What attachments should I be thinking about? -

• I know I need the loader and backhoe. And am planning on box blade and forks. Are those the right attachments to be focusing on? should I be getting something different or additional?
• One thing I am concerned about is clearing brush and ground. There are some areas where I want to clear some brush and create a new road. Would I be able to do this with a loader and box blade? Do I need to be thinking about getting something else as well?

Where to buy attachments -

• My dealer offers box blades by Titan Implements, but it looks like that company has changed names and these are still labeled Titan. They also appear to be standard duty models. everything I've read makes me think that, for box blades, I need to buy as heavy duty as I can. So I think I'll pass on these. Also, generally I think it's a bad idea to buy things at dealers. Generally that's not where you find the best deals.
• I was looking at Everything Attachments, and Woods (just because I have read good things about these brands). The EA box seems well designed, and is a little cheaper than the Woods, but the side walls are half as think as the Woods. The Woods weighs 680lbs, while the EA unit only weighs 515lbs.
• Does anyone have experiene with these and give any advice?
• What other brands should I be considering? Am I thinking the right way on these in the first place? Could I go cheaper??

• Th backhoe comes with a 24" bucket, which seems really wide to me for that hoe. I am thinking I probably need to buy a 12" bucket as well.
  • am I thinking right on that?
  • where should I look for buckets?

How wide of a box blade should I get?

• The tractor is 64" wide, so I am thinking I would want the 65" or 66" blades. Should I be looking at 72" blades instead? I will want to use it to create some drainage ditches beside the road and I'm thinking it may be an advantage to have a wider one (but also may be a paing to manage??)

Should I get my tires filled with Beet juice? and what is a normal cost to get that done?

The tractor comes with 2 rear ports. It can accomodate up to three. Should I have the third rear port added?

• I am planning on installing a hydraulic top link on it, so that will leave 1 port. I am expecting to use that port for the backhoe.
• I also expect that adding a third function for the loader will be too much $$, so I woud like to just run some hoses up from a rear remote.
• This is where I want a little help because of my inexperience -- I think that, when I have the backhoe installed, I can just remove the hoses for the top link and free up that port. So I would be able to run the hoe and a loader third function at the same time. And if I am using the box blade, the hoe ports will be freed up to use for the top link. So that would mean that I only really need 2 ports.
• But the 2 current ports only give me one detent port. I expect that I want 2 detent ports, wouldn't I?

Trailering -

I am planning to buy a 16 foot dump trailer to transport the tractor. I don't want to go bigger than a 16 footer, but by my best estimates I am expecting that the backhoe will hang over the end of the trailer.

Anyone have any experience transporting with a dump trailer? Good idea or bad? Anything I need to think of before I drive to pick up the tractor with the trailer?




anything else here I'm not considering that I should be?

The first serious thing you should do is rent or lease a FECON track drive mulcher
to save yourself thousands of dollars, and hundreds of hours of work and
do all your land clearing FIRST.

FARM TRACTORS ARE NOT MENT FOR EARTH MOVING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!





You going to make your life much more difficult and expensive otherwise
when you can keep the spousal unit much happier.