Saw Chain care and sharpening tips?

[tomplum]

I have an MS250 Stihl saw which seems to run up well, oil well but I'd like to expect more out of cutting performance. Bucking up firewood should be easier than it is. I've never been great at hand sharpening chain, basically grabbing new chains (Oregon 22lpx068g) until they try may patience and get replaced. So with the stack of chains on the shelf, sat an Oregon chain grinder in the box. Today was a good day to make its trial run. Followed the specs on the chain and the edges cleaned up nice. I had two that had more abuse that likely found some dirt that took a second run through. Other than this, these chains weren't badly worn and never saw a grinder. Would bringing the rakers down a bit be a good step? The pitch called for in manual was 25 degrees. Would a little more pitch help? Speaking pitch, aka sap. Some of these chains are quite dirty. Does cleaning them up in diesel make a better cut? Signed, not the sharpest guy on the block.

 

[motownbrowne]

If you want to take your chain sharpening to the next level, i recommend signing up at Arboristsite and or OPEforum. There's some great guys there that can really help you set up your grinder and get good results.

As to your question though, depending on how much material you removed from the cutter, yes, you should probably take the rakers down a little. There are gauges available to help figure out how much to remove. I like to use a dremel with a sanding wheel to take mine down. Your mileage may vary.

 

[lennyzx11]

I have the same saw. I ported the muffler and retuned it per YouTube and has made it a whole different animal.
I got the Timberline sharpener last year and have to say that this has made the chain sharpening a simple task. Great product!

 

[motownbrowne]

I was gonna suggest a muffler mod as well. That can really wake up a saw. Louder too, but sometimes that's okay. BUT, running a dull chain on any saw is a bad idea, and really accelerates wear. Making your saw's engine perform better (muffler mod), but not learning about proper chain sharpening will only further accelerate damage. But, yeah, figure out how to get your chains sharp, stop cutting with them before they're "dull" and then pursue a muffler mod. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

[goeduck]

Other than this, these chains weren't badly worn and never saw a grinder. Would bringing the rakers down a bit be a good step? .

The rakers do not need to be brought down on every sharpening. As mentioned there is a tool to set the depth based on the teeth edge. You change wheels, set up on one raker per the tool, remove the tool and do the rest.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Days worth of reading on ArboristSite or Outdoor Power Equipment Forum / OPE.

Take note of progressive filing.

 

[tomplum]

Will do. Thanks for tip on the muffler mod too. Good project for tomorrow.

 

[RyeThomas]

Granberg G106B. Simple cost effective tool for filing and keeping things sharp. I’m not a fan of any grinder, just my opinion. Once you get a hang of sharpening you will quickly note chip size and how a sharp chain pulls thru the wood quickly and effortlessly. I was a pretty poor hand filer for years, I’ve had my Granberg a few years. Now everyone I cut with or that checks out one of my saws comments how sharp my chains are. It’s not because I’m good, it’s lots of practice and using a great tool.

Rakers are entirely different discussion. Adjusting rakers too low can actually make things worse and put a lot of strain on a saw. There are a host of raker gauges as well.

 

[dodge man]

I have the same saw also. I bought the Stihl sharping kit for mine. It includes a round file with a guide, a file for the rakers, and a gauge. You just set the gauge on the chain and if the rakers stick up to far, it shows up. I've filed mine a little bit over the years. Most of the time I sharpen mine by hand but I also have a dremmel style tool for when it gets really dull.

 

[Egon]

If you have been cutting with dull chains the chances are good that they overheated and ruined the tempering.

 

[jerrybob]

I don't sharpen anymore.......much easier to take my chains to local saw shop......for $5........he sharpens them like new......when they are too worn down......he makes me a new one. I always have 3 or 4 sharp chains in the shop. Nothing wrong with easy.

 

[Egon]

There are folks that will touch up their chains every tank or two of fuel used. That keeps a nice sharp chain in constant use and keeps all the angles correct. Running a chain till it is real dull usually wrecks the chain.

 

[CobyRupert]

There are folks that will touch up their chains every tank or two of fuel used. That keeps a nice sharp chain in constant use and keeps all the angles correct.

Agree!
IMHO, hand filing is much easier and doesn't take much longer than swapping chains, let alone driving them to a shop or setting up a guide.
Maybe it's me, but don't you find you've probably ran some grit or dirt through the chain rather than dulling it with just wood?
If I can run two tanks of gas through a saw before I screw the pooch by nicking the chain I consider myself lucky.

 

[ericm979]

I go two tanks before I clean the saw and sharpen the chain. If I rock the chain or hit a hidden fence wire like I did this afternoon, I sharpen the chain. If I notice the chain's not cutting as well I sharpen it. I have spare chains for most of my bars and multiple saws so I can swap a chain or saw rather than continue with a dull chain.

I hand file the chains until I can visually see that they're not quite true or I notice that cutting performance is down, then I use a chain grinder. I've tried many of the sharpening gizmos and none have worked as well as hand filing for me. But they work for some people. Every few sharpenings I check the rakers. I was dubuious about progressive sharpening until I read an article on how chains actually cut. I think it was an article by Carlton, the chain company. Now I need to find a depth gauge that isn't just fixed at .025.

 

[4570Man]

I lack the ability to do a good job hand filing a chain. I’ve only seen one person that can do good job. The dozens of other people that I’ve seen that hand file a chain suck at it. I usually put a gallon of gas through my saw before I sharpen it.

 

[BarnieTrk]

Hey Guys,
Regarding chainsaw care and sharpening tips, what opinions do you guys have regarding changing the drive sprocket (on the saw) or a new bar when installing a new chain? I've been told it's recommended and then someone else will tell me it's not necessary..... What say you?

I luv my MS250 and it does 85% of my cutting - but the ol' Farm Boss 041 (with a 20" bar) is my brute saw!

BarnieTrk

 

[BarnieTrk]

Fellas,
Another related question:
The OP claimed he, "...basically grabbing new chains (Oregon 22lpx068g) until they try may patience and get replaced."

Is this the 'best bang for your buck' chain those in the know use?
As I recall, that is the chain that was originally-equipped on the MS250... some call it a 'learner's chain or safety chain'. Once you've become familiar with your saw and need to replace the worn out chain, many recommend to step up to a 'full chisel cutter' chain.... such as an Oregon 20LPX062 drive link chain. Any thoughts?

BarnieTrk

 

[newbury]

With regards to chains -
The Stihl chains are the most difficult to dull and sharpen, but they are expensive.
I've only the few saws in my sig. For a while I was doing a lot of chainsaw milling. On a typical 10 foot cut of 20 inch plus wood I had to "touch" up the chain about every cut or two. I learned to hand sharpen fairly well pretty quickly but use other tools to "check" my angles.

Some of my chains go on my 42" bar, they take longer to hand sharpen, 135 links/67 cutters.

I've noticed recently a number of battery powered sharpeners which get rave reviews, but since I can hand file quickly, use the Granberg G106B quickly to "check" the angles AND finally use my NT Oregon 520 clone to REALLY get everything right I have not sprung for the new stuff.

I probably have a seven or eight bars of different lengths, and for everything over 20" I've two types of chain - milling and regular. For most bars I've got at least three chains. So I developed a routine - (and remember most of my chains are over 72 links/36 cutters, up to 135 links.)
Saw with a chain until the chip size gets small, ie the chain dulls a bit OR the end of the day - then hand touch it up
Do that for about 3 or 4 times, hitting the rakers if needed
Then do a "Grandberg sharpening" to make sure my angles are right.
After 3 "Grandbergs" sit down and true them up with the 520 clone AFTER a bath for the chain to remove dirt and oil.
I've only done the 520 when I had a stack of chains. For a while it was once a winter.

Note that all but my Efco/JD saws are inboard clutches which makes chain swapping easier.
If I've been cutting pine I'll sometimes clean the chain in between "520's".

Check your bar. Sometimes they get worn or pinched. IF you take the chain off you should clean your bar groove out.
IF you've got a "newer" Stihl and run non-Stihl chain make SURE it's getting enough oil. US sold saws are stingy on oil. I had to buy high output oilers for my 660's.

IF you are just "getting in to it" and do not have either a good or inexpensive dealer to sharpen chains (my local dealer charged $12 for a 20" chain back in 2009, and sometimes ruined the chain) I'd recommend looking into tools like the "Stihl 2 in 1 chainsaw sharpener" and the Timberline.

Remember a dull cutter, either on a chainsaw chain or a knife, is dangerous unless you are cutting soft butter.

 

[buickanddeere]

I have an MS250 Stihl saw which seems to run up well, oil well but I'd like to expect more out of cutting performance. Bucking up firewood should be easier than it is. I've never been great at hand sharpening chain, basically grabbing new chains (Oregon 22lpx068g) until they try may patience and get replaced. So with the stack of chains on the shelf, sat an Oregon chain grinder in the box. Today was a good day to make its trial run. Followed the specs on the chain and the edges cleaned up nice. I had two that had more abuse that likely found some dirt that took a second run through. Other than this, these chains weren't badly worn and never saw a grinder. Would bringing the rakers down a bit be a good step? The pitch called for in manual was 25 degrees. Would a little more pitch help? Speaking pitch, aka sap. Some of these chains are quite dirty. Does cleaning them up in diesel make a better cut? Signed, not the sharpest guy on the block.

Use a power sharpener, factory fresh performance every time .

 

[tomplum]

Fellas,
Another related question:
The OP claimed he, "...basically grabbing new chains (Oregon 22lpx068g) until they try may patience and get replaced."

Is this the 'best bang for your buck' chain those in the know use?
As I recall, that is the chain that was originally-equipped on the MS250... some call it a 'learner's chain or safety chain'. Once you've become familiar with your saw and need to replace the worn out chain, many recommend to step up to a 'full chisel cutter' chain.... such as an Oregon 20LPX062 drive link chain. Any thoughts?

BarnieTrk

I was thinking about upgrading the chain either to a logger chain or set it up for a pico type. I ran one on the saw when it was new and ended up doing some rooting (at the foundation of the house) with it which got that and the bar replaced after. For me the cost is negligible on new Oregon stuff. It really doesn't pay to sharpen , but I hate tossing something that has life. I finished going over the chains and started cleaning up the saw and opening the muffler but then got called away for the day. The spark arrester screen looked new. It must like the synthetic Stihl oil. We'll see what she says after that.