Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[leonz]

That center pulley is very loose and can move in all directions. Looking at it in person I can tell it's not lined up properly. I suppose the next thing to do is take that entire pulley and arm off?

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Yes take the entire pulley off Zerker. You may end up replacing everything down to the bushing for the tensioner arm too anyway as it sounds like the whole arm and snubber pulley and bushing/bearing are shot.

 

[Jack Yuan]

Hello Mr. Yuan,


I do not have the ambition to yell in Mandarin; but once again this "flail mower owner" is not using the flail mower properly.

It is much too low to cut properly and as result it is scooping and shearing
the matted grass up like a sharp scythe with the scoop knives on your flail mower.

He certainly decided to mow without adjusting the rear roller(Lower the rear roller)
to raise the mowers cutting height-you can adjust the rear roller on your flail mowers
to adjust the cutting height I hope?

He has to lower the rear roller to raise the cutting height Mr. Yuan.

Thank you.

 

[megachimp]

Hi Guys-

thanks for all the helpful info in this thread so far. I have a little bit of a different situation, but I think you guys might be able to help. I recently purchased a Bush Hog GPF 50 flail mower to tow behind my ATV and mow about 5 acres of field. I don't care about finish, just about finishing as quickly as I can and getting the grass down. The mower came with a rather weak 8 hp Briggs engine which I have replaced with a 13 hp "Chonda" engine from Harbor Freight. Additionally, the flails (knives?) were in really bad shape so I have replaced them with heavy duty blades. From another manufacturer, but pretty close based on my discussions with Flailmaster.

The issue I'm having is with my drive belts. I seem to be running through belts very quickly. The original belt started smoking while I was mowing and elongated to the extent that it was unusable. I replaced it with an "adjustable link" belt. Same thing happened to the adjustable link belt. I tried putting on another adjustable link belt and I am starting to have the same issues. The one nice thing about the adjustable belt is that, when the slip/smoking starts, I'm usually able to stop the mower quickly, remove two links, and start again.

The only thing I have not tried yet is lowering the roll bar to the lowest possible position and adjusting the wheels to their lowest position. I just made that change and will try again tomorrow using those settings.

Any idea what could be causing my issues? I know that 13 hp is relatively small for a 48" machine based on the typical 5 hp/ft formula...but my mower was designed to operate with a 8 hp engine...surely the engine cannot be the problem.

Thanks in advance!!!
Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I should mention also that the mechanism on my machine is super-simple. Just a horizontal shaft engine coupled to a centrifugal clutch, driving a belt which spins a pulley connected to the flail bar. I have checked for angular misalignment in the belt and can't see any. I've also greased the grease points liberally and verified that everything spins well.

 

[leonz]

Hi Guys-

thanks for all the helpful info in this thread so far. I have a little bit of a different situation, but I think you guys might be able to help. I recently purchased a Bush Hog GPF 50 flail mower to tow behind my ATV and mow about 5 acres of field. I don't care about finish, just about finishing as quickly as I can and getting the grass down. The mower came with a rather weak 8 hp Briggs engine which I have replaced with a 13 hp "Chonda" engine from Harbor Freight. Additionally, the flails (knives?) were in really bad shape so I have replaced them with heavy duty blades. From another manufacturer, but pretty close based on my discussions with Flailmaster.

The issue I'm having is with my drive belts. I seem to be running through belts very quickly. The original belt started smoking while I was mowing and elongated to the extent that it was unusable. I replaced it with an "adjustable link" belt. Same thing happened to the adjustable link belt. I tried putting on another adjustable link belt and I am starting to have the same issues. The one nice thing about the adjustable belt is that, when the slip/smoking starts, I'm usually able to stop the mower quickly, remove two links, and start again.

The only thing I have not tried yet is lowering the roll bar to the lowest possible position and adjusting the wheels to their lowest position. I just made that change and will try again tomorrow using those settings.

Any idea what could be causing my issues? I know that 13 hp is relatively small for a 48" machine based on the typical 5 hp/ft formula...but my mower was designed to operate with a 8 hp engine...surely the engine cannot be the problem.

Thanks in advance!!!
Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I should mention also that the mechanism on my machine is super-simple. Just a horizontal shaft engine coupled to a centrifugal clutch, driving a belt which spins a pulley connected to the flail bar. I have checked for angular misalignment in the belt and can't see any. I've also greased the grease points liberally and verified that everything spins well.

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Hello Megachimp,

I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nations.


The Horse Power Per Foot argument does not apply to a towed motorized flail mower my friend.

How old is your Bush hog? it looks like one of the last motorized towed Mott flail mowers sold.

You probably have the same Hilliard Clutch that I have in my 16 Horse power Mathews Lawn Genie Pick Up Mower.

1`
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Now as far as mowing speed goes you are not going to be running flat out and mow. This is why you are smoking belts.

You need to slow down and mow the land your working to get it to mow right otherwise your going to continue to smoke the belts.


1. I want you to purchase a new Kevlar belt for the flail mower and do exactly as I tell you.
a. Make sure the snubber pulley has no grease on it.
2. raise the cutting height to its highest position which is the last mounting hole at he bottom for the flail mower wheel set and then you can mow.

3. use only premium fuel with SeaFoam or ethanol free premium gasoline plus Seafoam.

4. Overlap taking half cuts with the flail mower as you tow it in first gear, yes first gear! Yes it will get boring, that is why you put a fender radio on your ATV.
a. mowing in a spiral takes less time and less fuel as you are not braking to turn around or stopping to brake and turn around.


5. once you get it mowed down you can lower the cutting height and continue to mow in half cuts until you have the 2 inch height of cut.

6. After that you will be able to mow at the 2 inch height at 4 miles per hour in a spiral and your sod will look beautiful with little effort and you can reseed if you like and it will come in better with fewer weeds if any as you have been killing them off with mowing.


OK now:

1. Kevlar V belt
2. fresh premium fuel with SeaFoam,
3. raise mower to its highest cutting height at the NEW first mowing
4. mow in a spiral pattern taking half cuts .
5. lower the mowers cutting height one position for the next mowing
6. mow at the lower height in a spiral once again

Continue this until your sod has a 2 inch grass height and then you will be able to mow quickly when all the grass and brush is knocked down and you will have a great looking area with little work ans you will be able to mow very quickly in a spiral as you will not have to to stop to brake or turn around


Once you get it all knocked down and shredded the clippings will dissolve quickly and you will spend less time mowing. you have to slow down.


It takes time but once you have it all done the first time you will spend much less time mowing as 4 miles per hour will get your sod mowed quickly if you mow in a spiral pattern.

 

[Swardle]

Thanks! That's what I was leaning towards. Too bad I'm gone this weekend, so I need to wait another week to play...

Received my Caroni this past week as well. Used a floor jack on the lower attachment point to lift the mower to get the parts out while on the pallet. Good point from island on attaching the upper attachment point. I used the parts diagram to get it on correctly. I need to get the dipstick entension and check the belts and then time to play

 

[megachimp]

=====================================================================


Hello Megachimp,

I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nations.


The Horse Power Per Foot argument does not apply to a towed motorized flail mower my friend.

How old is your Bush hog? it looks like one of the last motorized towed Mott flail mowers sold.

You probably have the same Hilliard Clutch that I have in my 16 Horse power Mathews Lawn Genie Pick Up Mower.

1`
=====================================================================

Now as far as mowing speed goes you are not going to be running flat out and mow. This is why you are smoking belts.

You need to slow down and mow the land your working to get it to mow right otherwise your going to continue to smoke the belts.


1. I want you to purchase a new Kevlar belt for the flail mower and do exactly as I tell you.
a. Make sure the snubber pulley has no grease on it.
2. raise the cutting height to its highest position which is the last mounting hole at he bottom for the flail mower wheel set and then you can mow.

3. use only premium fuel with SeaFoam or ethanol free premium gasoline plus Seafoam.

4. Overlap taking half cuts with the flail mower as you tow it in first gear, yes first gear! Yes it will get boring, that is why you put a fender radio on your ATV.
a. mowing in a spiral takes less time and less fuel as you are not braking to turn around or stopping to brake and turn around.


5. once you get it mowed down you can lower the cutting height and continue to mow in half cuts until you have the 2 inch height of cut.

6. After that you will be able to mow at the 2 inch height at 4 miles per hour in a spiral and your sod will look beautiful with little effort and you can reseed if you like and it will come in better with fewer weeds if any as you have been killing them off with mowing.


OK now:

1. Kevlar V belt
2. fresh premium fuel with SeaFoam,
3. raise mower to its highest cutting height at the NEW first mowing
4. mow in a spiral pattern taking half cuts .
5. lower the mowers cutting height one position for the next mowing
6. mow at the lower height in a spiral once again

Continue this until your sod has a 2 inch grass height and then you will be able to mow quickly when all the grass and brush is knocked down and you will have a great looking area with little work ans you will be able to mow very quickly in a spiral as you will not have to to stop to brake or turn around


Once you get it all knocked down and shredded the clippings will dissolve quickly and you will spend less time mowing. you have to slow down.


It takes time but once you have it all done the first time you will spend much less time mowing as 4 miles per hour will get your sod mowed quickly if you mow in a spiral pattern.

Thanks so much leonz! I've gone ahead and implemented suggestions 3 and 4 immediately. On this mower there are three adjustments, an angle adjustment at the top of the flail mower, adjustments for the placement of the wheels, and adjustment for the roller. The wheel placement adjustment and roller adjustment each have four positions. I put both in the lowest position and adjusted the angle at the top so the motor was as close to level as possible and the roller rolled (barely) ont he ground.

The quality of cut definitely was better (still not super thrilled with it), and it took a lot longer (30 minutes) before the belt burned out. ATV going slow and in low gear the whole time. The belt burned out when I got cocky and drove the opposite way through the area I just mowed, I think I hit a dip which overloaded the engine which clippings. I'm ordering a new kevlar v belt and I'm going to use premium non-ethanol fuel with seafoam for the next batch of gas.

One of the things I have noticed while cutting is that the quality of cut seems to be worse near the center of the mower. Any idea what could be causing this? I'm thinking that it might be that the grass at the sides is flattened by the ATV tires, but not the grass at the middle.

I'm not sure of the exact year of my mower, but I think it is from around year 2000. Looks like a Hilliard clutch, yes. It's amazing that they don't make these engine powered machines any more in the US!

Thanks again for all the help! I was about to scrap this machine, but now I think it might be able to work for us.

 

[leonz]

Hello Megachimp,

I forgot to ask you this but are you running the engine wide open at about 3300 RPM??


Do you have a lawn tractor you can tow it with? I think that the ATV is part of the problem as its still too fast.


For what its worth my Lawn Genie is 36 years old and still going with lots of TLC and
rebuilding with new Flail Mower Rotor bearings, New wheels and bearings and
replacement parts for the 16 Horse Power Briggs cast iron sleeve one cylinder engine.

There is plenty of life left in your flail mower and mine both so there is no need to scrap it
my friend.

 

[megachimp]

Hello Megachimp,

I forgot to ask you this but are you running the engine wide open at about 3300 RPM??


Do you have a lawn tractor you can tow it with? I think that the ATV is part of the problem as its still too fast.


For what its worth my Lawn Genie is 36 years old and still going with lots of TLC and
rebuilding with new Flail Mower Rotor bearings, New wheels and bearings and
replacement parts for the 16 Horse Power Briggs cast iron sleeve one cylinder engine.

There is plenty of life left in your flail mower and mine both so there is no need to scrap it
my friend.

Thanks again!

Engine is wide open throttle, I have no idea what the rpm is (how would I measure that?). I let it get to full speed before starting mowing.

I don't have a lawn tractor, but I do have a smaller ATV that might be able to pull it. I'll give that a shot. Unfortunately the small ATV only has high gear . I'm going to look into getting a cheap "cruise control" kit for the ATVs to steady off my speed at a lower level.

I'll be out of commission for mowing for a little bit...have to figure out the size and order that kevlar belt.

Sounds like your mower is a really great workhorse...nice machine and awesome to have it last 36 years! How did you know when the rotor bearings needed to be replaced?

Once again, really appreciate you sharing your insight.

 

[leonz]

Engine speed measurement can be done with an infra red point and shoot tachometer but I would not worry about that too much as long as the engine is working.

You may want to consider upgrading to a larger "original" Honda or Briggs and Stratton engine.

The B+S V twins have a good reputation and the 13 HP GX340 engine I had on my firewood processor was a beast- I took care of it like baby. I heated it up with my space heater because it had 25 gallon hydraulic tank and I did that the year round when I used it almost daily.



When The flail Mower Rotor bearings usually fail they generally sieze up completely when working.

They are easy to replace and maintain as long as you purchase the right bearings.

When bearings are properly matched for the job for speed and strength as far
as the load it is required to handle they last for a very long time.
The original bearing set on my mower was changed 7 years ago.

I also had my fathers first 36 inch lawn genie pick up mower that I traded
in for my first tractor which was a Wheel horse 244 with a snow plow, chains,
weights and mower I have it and its going to the scrapper as its not worth
repairing again after 26 years. The first transmission went out on it in 1994-5
I think and I lucked out as they had a 244 hydro that was burned in a fire and
they sold me that transmission.

NOW about your V belt; Take it to a NAPA or tractor supply and have them
measure the V belt with a V belt ruler and you will be all set. you might be lucky
and still be able to read the V belt number in the top of the V belt which is the
wide section that rests in the pulley.

 

[KenB2920]

So I have two flails I wouldn't mind selling. One is a Mott that has some rust and needs a bearing for the rear roller. Aside from that it still cuts well. I used it today to make sure it still works and it's great.

Being no one seems to want to buy it (at least yet), It there anything else I could take it apart and use the gearbox for?

I also have a ford 907 but it's to sound of condition to dismantle

What have people turned their flails into