120-Volt Mig welder.

[Sodo]

That makes me wonder that if fluxcore wire was used, perhaps there would have been complete root fusion throughout, since it is said that fluxcore does penetrate better than solid wire?

Yes that would be interesting. But I think in this case (flat, butt-type weld, 60deg groove) most of the "penetration" that you will get is with your grinder (pre-weld joint prep) so in this case it's not much related to the wire. If unable to groove the weld, you may have something there.
For a fillet weld, joint prep becomes more difficult and penetration more important.

Isn't that the truth. I have a Lincoln SP125+ with .035 flux core. If i get a chance this weekend I could try welding up a joint. I would have to make a jig to bend it on, but I do have the 20T press.

Can you recomend a type of joint/thickness. Not sure what I have on hand though.

I think members want to know what to do with 1/4" and 3/8" as these materials are encountered at times in 120v welding projects. No rocket science here, the same techniques are used for smaller 220v machines welding 3/4" and 1" but these details are strangely withheld from 120v users, who appear to be hungry for the tips.

I'd sure like to see how someone "experienced" would do it rather than "going all pioneer" myself. I'd like to see it & qualify it on the forum, so folks can bank & it put into use. Understand this is time-consuming, so thanks for the effort (to anyone who can find the time) ,,,,and face the grumpier members too.

 

[mikehaugen]

I (probably) would be willing to try it, but don't own own a 120 mig, or any mig for that matter... and really don't have a ton of mig experience. Maybe I could try to weld some 3" plate with my 220 stick welder for comparison, or perhaps some 6" plate with our 480v inverter mig at work?

 

[Sodo]

I (probably) would be willing to try it, but don't own own a 120 mig, or any mig for that matter... and really don't have a ton of mig experience. Maybe I could try to weld some 3" plate with my 220 stick welder for comparison, or perhaps some 6" plate with our 480v inverter mig at work?

Hi Mike,

That is exactly the problem here, is why there's such a gap in 120v MIG info/instruction. Members (with experience) always always always want to tell how to they'd do it with a different welder. Sheild Arc, Arc Weld, and others have been doing this for years, and it doesn't help at all. Their inevitable conclusion is for the member to get a different machine, which has become so solid in forum wisdom that other members who know very little (at this point) will fight tooth and nail on that shaky premise.

The "member" wants to know how a pro would do it with the 120v MIG that the member HAS. But the pro doesn't have one and has no reason to ever use a 120v MIG or work out the tricks. This is a gap that requires a special "pro" who is interested to help newbies. And without pros, then it's left to a hobby/maintenance guy as time allows. And then you guys have to clean up after.

Mike, I'm sure the interest is much appreciated by many, but if you aren't showing it, testing it, and making actual conclusions WITH A 120v MIG, isn't it simply meaningless? Can you borrow one and pick up where Shield Arc left off? I doubt members have so much pent-up frustration with you as they (apparently) did Shield.

 

[mikehaugen]

It is meaningless, I agree. I was sicere with the first part of my response, but just sarcastic with the rest.

I am however very interested in the miller 211 and may someday have the funds to buy one. Who knows, by then there still may be no one that has taken the challenge that you have given.

As stated, I have a 220 stick/tig welder. I am looking for something practical for body work.. stick is near impossible, and tig is fairly difficult (at least for me) unless it's on a bench in front of you. Crawling under a truck to weld the back of rockers and laying and reaching into the corners to do floor pans would suck with tig. I really think a small 120 mig would be the ticket. Then once I have one, I'm sure I would use it on all of the thinner stuff. But I would not require trying to push it's limits on thicker stuff.

 

[paulharvey]

I don't think it matters if it's 120v or 220v, it's more of an issue of "getting the most out of your small/under powered welder". I'm sure there are under powered 220v (I own one) and good 120v ones (you own one). The arguement about voltage is childish.

 

[dragoneggs]

It is meaningless, I agree. I was sicere with the first part of my response, but just sarcastic with the rest.

I am however very interested in the miller 211 and may someday have the funds to buy one. Who knows, by then there still may be no one that has taken the challenge that you have given.

As stated, I have a 220 stick/tig welder. I am looking for something practical for body work.. stick is near impossible, and tig is fairly difficult (at least for me) unless it's on a bench in front of you. Crawling under a truck to weld the back of rockers and laying and reaching into the corners to do floor pans would suck with tig. I really think a small 120 mig would be the ticket. Then once I have one, I'm sure I would use it on all of the thinner stuff. But I would not require trying to push it's limits on thicker stuff.

Mike, I have a Miller 211 and I am doing plenty of coupon welds on various thicknesses, settings, on 110v for my own education and putting them in a 20ton press. One thing I am learning is that it is difficult to get consistent penetration along the length of the coupon if the material is relatively thin (less than 1/8in) The heat seems to build up too fast in the coupon with the small mass of metal due to the short lengths. No place for the heat to dissipate.

I am playing with voltage, wire feed speed, pushing/pulling, patterns, etc. I was going to document much of this and share extensively but decided I am not a pro at this, just a hack so I will keep most the the science myself for now and comment obliquely. My self interest at this point is to weld thinner materials consistently without blow out which seems to be easy to do.

To date, I have only played with .030wire and 75/25 gas. I think I will procure some .023 wire and see if my results improve.

 

[mikehaugen]

Yes, I know about your 211... I am quite envious. I believe some higher end welders have settings to raise the current at the beginning and slowly taper off as you weld... but maybe I am imagining that.

 

[dragoneggs]

Yes, I know about your 211... I am quite envious. I believe some higher end welders have settings to raise the current at the beginning and slowly taper off as you weld... but maybe I am imagining that.

Don't know about that but... it would be kind of 'cool' if the welder tip could sense the substrate temperature and auto correct so us hacks could weld perfectly 'right out of the box'! :laughing: This practicing is laborious!

 

[Sodo]

Mike, I have a Miller 211 ----- My self interest at this point is to weld thinner materials consistently without blow out which seems to be easy to do. To date, I have only played with .030wire and 75/25 gas. I think I will procure some .023 wire and see if my results improve.

DE, what is the thickness of the material you are interested in welding? Going thinner on the wire will help for sure. I bet your 211 has grooves on the spool for .023. When I have trouble welding thin stuff I 'pulse' the trigger which allows more time for the heat to dissipate without dropping thru.

 

[dragoneggs]

Yes it does have grooves and I am heading to HD this afternoon for a spool of .023. Struggling at the moment with 16g (.060). Yes I have played a little with pulsing but I am also trying to keep it water tight.

 

[CNC Dan]

Yes it does have grooves and I am heading to HD this afternoon for a spool of .023. Struggling at the moment with 16g (.060). Yes I have played a little with pulsing but I am also trying to keep it water tight.

If you are able, weld down hill. It goes faster, less time to burn through.

 

[KubotainNH]

I am looking for something practical for body work.. stick is near impossible, and tig is fairly difficult (at least for me) unless it's on a bench in front of you. Crawling under a truck to weld the back of rockers and laying and reaching into the corners to do floor pans would suck with tig. I really think a small 120 mig would be the ticket. Then once I have one, I'm sure I would use it on all of the thinner stuff. But I would not require trying to push it's limits on thicker stuff.

I tried body work with my stick welder, that was comical. Now I have a cheap HF flux core wire feed unit that does the job. A good brand of .030 wire seems to work quite well for stitch welding, the HF stuff is crappy. The last couple months I've ran 6 or 8 spools through that machine just for body work, some were 2 pound spools. Was there some blow through? Oh yeah but generally pretty easy to build it back up then get the grinder to clean up the mess. Lining up the metal is so easy with a wire feed unit and auto darkening helmet. Line up the top seem, pull the trigger for a second so it's tacked then work your way down the seem to tack it all in straight. Go back and stitch it all in. I really should have bought one of these machines sooner.

Would I like a dual voltage MIG? Of course but this thing does the job I'm asking it to and the portability is priceless.

 

[KubotainNH]

Yes it does have grooves and I am heading to HD this afternoon for a spool of .023. Struggling at the moment with 16g (.060). Yes I have played a little with pulsing but I am also trying to keep it water tight.

Water tight on 16g, ouch. You're way more talented a welder than me if you can accomplish that.

 

[dragoneggs]

Water tight on 16g, ouch. You're way more talented a welder than me if you can accomplish that.

Okay then... I will take that as a challenge! It is not critical but a goal.

 

[KubotainNH]

Okay then... I will take that as a challenge! It is not critical but a goal.

Please do, I'm always willing to learn how someone accomplishes something. I'm curious as to what you are welding that needs to hold liquid.

So many types of welding, so little money and time to learn it all.

 

[k0ua]

Water tight on 16g, ouch. You're way more talented a welder than me if you can accomplish that.

No problem at all with TIG

And TIG is easy and cheap to get into if you have a DC stick welder with good control of the current setting.

 

[paulharvey]

No problem at all with TIG

And TIG is easy and cheap to get into if you have a DC stick welder with good control of the current setting.

Ok, I've actually been avoiding asking; because I know what some of the answers would be; but what is the cheapest functional tig torch/power block/lead-hose you can't get. I know the default answer is to go to the LWS and just buy what they tell me to buy...
$50 + argon regulator? Is there a cheaper? Is $50 not realistic?
I see regulars starting at $32 on ebay.

Can you use the argon regulator on straight CO2 if I decided to get a mig later.

Would a gas supplier swap a oxygen tank for inert gas tank of simular size?

I have a 130 amp ac/115 DC Chicago electric transformer already. I have two large oxygen tanks; ones ~150-200, others 200+ cf. Both are long out of hydro-test, but both still have oxygen in them.

 

[Sodo]

Watertight is no problem, it's a pretty quick pulse, about as quick as you can work that trigger finger. I have never quantified it but guessing from memory it's about 2/3 on, 1/3 off.

Why watertight, does it hold liquid? Or just to exclude water so it doesn't leak rust stains or fill with ice? You can do that with paint if the weld is decent.

This pic is 1" x 1" x .065" (=16ga) pulsed with .030 wire. You can make it a little tighter with .023 wire. I think you'll pick it up pretty fast.

 

[KubotainNH]

And TIG is easy and cheap to get into if you have a DC stick welder with good control of the current setting.

Maybe someday but funding isn't there at the moment. Kids are too expensive.

I do enjoy watching youtube videos of people welding with various types of welders. Plasma cutters are cool too. So many tools so little money.....

 

[k0ua]

Ok, I've actually been avoiding asking; because I know what some of the answers would be; but what is the cheapest functional tig torch/power block/lead-hose you can't get. I know the default answer is to go to the LWS and just buy what they tell me to buy...
$50 + argon regulator? Is there a cheaper? Is $50 not realistic?
I see regulars starting at $32 on ebay.

Can you use the argon regulator on straight CO2 if I decided to get a mig later.

Would a gas supplier swap a oxygen tank for inert gas tank of simular size?

I have a 130 amp ac/115 DC Chicago electric transformer already. I have two large oxygen tanks; ones ~150-200, others 200+ cf. Both are long out of hydro-test, but both still have oxygen in them.

I gave $26 for the regulator, and I think it was $90 for the 17V torch, I did not need a power block as the torch had a 10mm DIN plug on the end that plugged right into the the Everlast welders DIN plug socket. I have seen torches from about $70 and up on e-bay. depending on what comes with them. Mine had some accessories, several cups, collets and a back cap and a tungsten.

I can't answer what the LWS will do with the tank swap out. I think the argon regulator will work with CO2, but I don't think it reads right. I might be wrong on that. But at about $26, I did not consider it a large investment.

HTP Argon CO2 MIG TIG Flow Meter Regulator Welding Weld | eBay

WP 17V 12 Foot 4 Meter 150Amp Air Cooled TIG Torch Complete with Gas Valve Head | eBay

So looks like this torch is $57 and even has the switch if you convert later to a welder with HF start. it comes with collets cups backaps and has a DIN connection.. This looks like a good buy to me. I would be happy to answer any questions to people just thinking about getting into TIG.. I am no expert, by any stretch, but I have been down the road and might be able to help.