Rear Blade 7' Rear Blade with Hydraulic Angle and Offset

[Builder]

Any of you guys plowing snow with a backblade on a nice paved driveway?

Or is that much too risky for gouging?

If you plow, wouldn't you always swing the blade backwards and plow in reverse? Otherwise the snow would bunch-up between the blade & rear tires, right?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Any of you guys plowing snow with a backblade on a nice paved driveway?

Or is that much too risky for gouging?

If you plow, wouldn't you always swing the blade backwards and plow in reverse? Otherwise the snow would bunch-up between the blade & rear tires, right?

Angle the blade at 45 degrees and I would think that there would be very little bunching. I can't really say from experience though, I've only plowed snow once and it was only 8"-10" deep. But it worked for me that one time.

 

[JoeL4330]

Really appreciate the pics. (And your drawing of the HF top-link adapter, too.) Made everything very understandable.

Didn't see the blade offset cylinder, though. Assume it is covered inside the square channel along the rear of the blade...? (Although, it occurred to me as I wrote that - how could you reverse the blade?)

The blade offset cylinder is not visible because it is on the other side of the square tube...opposite the angle cylinder. To reverse the blade, raise the blade, pull the pin on the angle cylinder, and rotate the blade, then reinsert pin ...the box beam is long enough (>4') so that the 8' blade swings underneath it ...and that long box beam is what gives the large offset (30" or so) ...and also what makes for quite a long-lever-arm load on the TPH.

The hydraulic cushion valve is a new one on me, too. Learnin' somethin' all the time here on TBN!

Cushion valves, as name implies, allow some compliance if the otherwise unstoppable blade hits the immoveable rock ...a nice cushion

Haven't got a very clear idea of what your Kubota dealer did to make all those hydraulic couplers available... My JD has the electric diverter with 3 functions front and rear. If I'm using the FEL the rear ones are not available. A quick click on the loader handle and I can switch back and forth - but all six available at the same time?? Probably have to tap into the Power Beyond circuit.

Hydraulics are not my thing, but I do not believe that the rear remotes come off the PB on the bucket hydraulics. I think it comes off the pump (T-eed in with the loader) so, I am guessing that the second triplet of rear remotes is similarly T-eed also...that is, there are three sets of spools in parallel: two 3-function, and one 2-function for the loader (which also has a WRLong electric 3rd function ...from the PB, I would guess).

Thanks again. Great thread.

AKfish

I can get more definitive info from the dealer if required.

 

[Builder]

Where the heck do you get enough room in the operators platform for 6 remote levers?

 

[brianidaho]

By chance, are there various holes for your side links to be set in that would change the height so that your 3 point would be able to lift the blade higher? A lot of times the U shaped piece at the bottom of the side link has various holes for that purpose and or there might be a hole or two in the bottom links that would change things also.

Something else to look for.

Post some pics, that would be the best.

MtnViewRanch was spot on, I should have checked for that. It's been cold around here lately, staying outside more than necessary is something I've avoided. I raised the sidelinks to the top hole, now have well over a foot of clearance, working depth is about 3-4 on the scale.

 

[AKfish]

Where the heck do you get enough room in the operators platform for 6 remote levers?

It really is quite a "hydraulic wonder"!

It would be very "illuminating" to learn what/how the Kubota guys did what they did to make that happen!

I did some poking around on the LandPride website - and their photos leave a WHOLE lot to be desired!! I got alot more info from this thread than their efforts to sell their products...

The 35 series seems to be identical to the 40 series; except the 40 is about 35lbs heavier??

AKfish

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The 35 series seems to be identical to the 40 series; except the 40 is about 35lbs heavier??
AKfish

The hitch on the RBT35 series is made of a tube and some flat bar stock that supports the top link, and has a 3 kingpin.

The hitch on the RBT40 series is made of tube, and has a 3 1/8" kingpin.
The 40 series hitch looks much stronger to me.

 

[brianidaho]

I finally got a chance to get some pictures of the blade in action. The first one is the first pass through 6-8" snow. The second one shows the blade offset and in action "winging" back the tops of some berms. The there is a fair hill off the side, the tractor wheels are on the road, berm is well over the edge.

 

[JB4310]

Nice, looks like 2' of offset?
By the 2nd. pic it looks like maybe if the blade was raised it might push more snow off the top and down the hill instead of banking up as much. or was that intentional to create a natural guard rail?

JB.

 

[brianidaho]

Nice, looks like 2' of offset?
By the 2nd. pic it looks like maybe if the blade was raised it might push more snow off the top and down the hill instead of banking up as much. or was that intentional to create a natural guard rail?

JB.

I find "winging" berms to be a balancing act. As you say, the blade could be higher, somewhat more snow might fall down the far side, but then you have to make more passes with the blade lowered each time, to move the whole thing. It's not clear from the picture, but the blade is up maybe 3-4" off the ground. Without chains I am definately traction limited, if I try to grab too much on a pass I get turned sideways. I'd guess you're about right, 2 maybe 2 1/2' of offset in that picture. It will offset further, but the angle is kicked all the way in that pic. If it's offset further the blade is squarer (less angle) with respect to the work direction, there is more of a dendency to grab and turn the tractor, plus more is pulled back onto the road. I'm finding there is quite a knack to working most efficiently with this thing, still learning. I'm planning on chains for next winter, too broke to afford a set right now.

 

[SkogenMe]

Note that with full hydraulics including tail/gauge wheel, four (4) rear remotes are required.


Incidentally, in terms of bells and whistles, I also have the cushion valves on power angle and offset, which is kind to both the tractor and the blade ...gives a little relief when the wanna-be-unstoppable tractor encounters the wanna-be-immoveable rock.

Great thread..How did the rest of the winter work out?
I plow our road in the winter and need to do more maintainance in the summer so I have followed this and various grader threads...

Could I use two of these cushion valves on the RBT3584?
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009041106085000&item=9-4019-50-H&catname=hydraulic
It references a mounting bolt separation distance of 3.5". Can anybody tell me if that matches what is on the RBT3584/

I was wondering about mounting a selector valve on the RB (I have 3 remotes), but I guess if I mounted it on the tractor I could use it for other things.


Thanks for the info.

 

[streamin]

I enjoyed this thread, I will be moving my tractor to snow country next year and was wondering about the preference for this blade over a front blade.Seems like a lot of things to consider( more remotes, height of board, cost, looking back,etc.).Can anyone give an opinion on why this would be preferred? Don't mean to get off topic, just trying to make a decision.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I enjoyed this thread, I will be moving my tractor to snow country next year and was wondering about the preference for this blade over a front blade.Seems like a lot of things to consider( more remotes, height of board, cost, looking back,etc.).Can anyone give an opinion on why this would be preferred? Don't mean to get off topic, just trying to make a decision.

If you use a front blade, you have then lost the ability to use the loader if the need arises. I think that a lot depends on what your individual circumstances might be in your area.

 

[brianidaho]

Streamin, I went with the rear blade for a couple of reasons. First, as far as I know, front blades aren't available with offset capability. For me, plowing on hillsides, that's pretty important. With the rear blade with offset, I can hang the blade off the edge of the hill and plow away, without driving right on the edge. I can also raise the blade and wing back the tops of berms. I'm plowing about 1/2 mile of private road.

If you have a shorter, but wider area the front blade might be nicer. Trying to clear parking lots for example is a pain with the rear blade. For my parking area, I find the front bucket is more useful than the rear blade.