Texas Grapple Shootout

[lostcreekranch]

I was raking with the bottom tines backward (smooth) and forward (sifting). I also have the box blade on for counter weight and it has a row of ripper tines, a.k.a. rake. However, I had to disconnect one top and tilt on the box blade for the grapple. Do they make a "Y" valved splitter for the hydraulic lines? I don't mind getting off the tractor to turn a valve but I do mind making sure all the pressure is off then yanking two lines out and the connecting two other lines.

Have you considered adding a true 3rd function diverter valve off of your power beyond to operate your grapple. We put the WR Long 3rd function on the Hew Holland for the grapple. You get a new handle for your FEL joystick with a thumb rocker switch to open / close the grapple. Think it's much easier than having to move your hand to rear remote handle and you don't lose use of your top & tilt.

 

[txdon]

Rick you lost me at "power beyond". Do I have one on a Kubota and what does that look like? It sounds complicated but maybe with good instruction I can figure it out. Is there a youtube or a good pictorial that shows how to do it on a Kubota like mine?

 

[lostcreekranch]

Rick you lost me at "power beyond". Do I have one on a Kubota and what does that look like? It sounds complicated but maybe with good instruction I can figure it out. Is there a youtube or a good pictorial that shows how to do it on a Kubota like mine?

Don;

You should have a power beyond outlet on your loader valve. Visit with your Kubota dealer for the specifics or call Nelsen at WR Long. Most dealers have relationships with WR Long and your dealer has probably installed these kits before. I am sure that here are other 3rd function kits out there but I have great experience with the WR Long kit.

Good luck!

http://www.wrlonginc.com/valve_kits.htm

 

[bindian]

...............or just put a diverter valve on your FEL loader post....take your curl and dump cylinder lines and run to the diverter valve. Then have lines from the diverter valve run back to your curl and dump cylinder. The two extra lines from the diverter valve go to the open and close cylinders on the grapple. Wire in an electric switch mounted on your loader joystick ball or handle.
.......I have a thread here...............http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/229883-hydraulic-auger-mount-5.html
starting in post #44
hugs, Brandi

 

[txdon]

...............or just put a diverter valve on your FEL loader post....take your curl and dump cylinder lines and run to the diverter valve. Then have lines from the diverter valve run back to your curl and dump cylinder. The two extra lines from the diverter valve go to the open and close cylinders on the grapple. Wire in an electric switch mounted on your loader joystick ball or handle.
.......I have a thread here...............http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/229883-hydraulic-auger-mount-5.html
starting in post #44
hugs, Brandi

Any way to have dump and open grapple run simultaneously?

 

[lostcreekranch]

Any way to have dump and open grapple run simultaneously?

Yes, you can.

 

[lostcreekranch]

...............or just put a diverter valve on your FEL loader post....take your curl and dump cylinder lines and run to the diverter valve. Then have lines from the diverter valve run back to your curl and dump cylinder. The two extra lines from the diverter valve go to the open and close cylinders on the grapple. Wire in an electric switch mounted on your loader joystick ball or handle. .......I have a thread here...............http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/229883-hydraulic-auger-mount-5.html starting in post #44 hugs, Brandi

That is essentially what you get with the WR Long kit.

 

[bindian]

That is essentially what you get with the WR Long kit.

Exactly, but around $200 to $250 cheaper then the kit, depending on how much of a MacGyver you are.
hugs, Brandi

 

[IslandTractor]

Any way to have dump and open grapple run simultaneously?

Almost never a need for that. Clamp, move, unclamp, dump. Easy peazy.

Stick with the rear remote.

I have used both rear remote and WRLong diverter valve. Nothing wrong with the quality of the WRLong but it saves me zero time. If you can drive 4 on the floor then you can equally operate a grapple with rear remotes.

 

[bindian]

Almost never a need for that. Clamp, move, unclamp, dump. Easy peazy.

Stick with the rear remote.

I have used both rear remote and WRLong diverter valve. Nothing wrong with the quality of the WRLong but it saves me zero time. If you can drive 4 on the floor then you can equally operate a grapple with rear remotes.

Dumping, curling, opening the grapple, closing the grapple all at once saves lots of time. Especially when you wanna get at different angles to rip up roots. Or restacking a burn pile heeped in flames and smoke. Faster is better, hands down.
hugs, Brandi

 

[lostcreekranch]

Dumping, curling, opening the grapple, closing the grapple all at once saves lots of time. Especially when you wanna get at different angles to rip up roots. Or restacking a burn pile heeped in flames and smoke. Faster is better, hands down. hugs, Brandi

Totally agree!

 

[IslandTractor]

Dumping, curling, opening the grapple, closing the grapple all at once saves lots of time. Especially when you wanna get at different angles to rip up roots. Or restacking a burn pile heeped in flames and smoke. Faster is better, hands down.
hugs, Brandi

I've got eight years experience with grapples (3 with remote, 5 with diverter) and during that time have never once had a task that required simultaneous dump/open or curl/close. If dumping into a fire, drive forward, open and dump. Most people with grapples are just fine with either rear remotes or a diverter. I don't recall anyone giving up in frustration and installing an electric over hydraulic (true third function) after spending even one day learning to operate a grapple. Most people who install the more expensive controllers do so either because a dealer talked them into it or they were talked into it here on TBN. The fact that you will see almost no one who starts off with rear remotes or diverter move up to true third function says a lot IMO. In my own experience, the diverter is not worth it either. So long as the tractor has a rear remote controller in a convenient location, the money and complexity of a diverter valve can be saved. Much better for overall tractor efficiency to add another specialized implement than spend money on control valves.

 

[k0ua]

Everyone to their own preference of course, but I extended the stock rear remote control lever to be closer to the loader joystick so I did not have to move my hand off of the joystick to operate the grapple control with my fingers. I find it to be quick and efficient and certainly low cost, as I am out about $150 for hoses and connectors. That was the total expenditure to get ready for the grapple. I made my own connector bracket out on the torque tube of the loader.

 

[IslandTractor]

View attachment 358824

Everyone to their own preference of course, but I extended the stock rear remote control lever to be closer to the loader joystick so I did not have to move my hand off of the joystick to operate the grapple control with my fingers. I find it to be quick and efficient and certainly low cost, as I am out about $150 for hoses and connectors. That was the total expenditure to get ready for the grapple. I made my own connector bracket out on the torque tube of the loader.

I don't know James, looks to me like you have to stretch your pinkie another inch or so....maybe $900 for electric over hydraulic would be a wise investment...

 

[TomSeller]

Moving two sets of equal cylinders at the same cuts the stroke speed in half given the same pump GPM. So you really are not saving time. Pump GPM is the limiting factor.

 

[k0ua]

I don't know James, looks to me like you have to stretch your pinkie another inch or so....maybe $900 for electric over hydraulic would be a wise investment...

It works good for me, in fact I have gotten to where I operate it totally without thinking about it at all. You can build "muscle memory" in a few hundred repetitions and focus totally on your work without thinking about the motions. Just as we all do with our FEL joysticks, this grapple control is just another thing to add to these motions.

 

[IslandTractor]

It works good for me, in fact I have gotten to where I operate it totally without thinking about it at all. You can build "muscle memory" in a few hundred repetitions and focus totally on your work without thinking about the motions. Just as we all do with our FEL joysticks, this grapple control is just another thing to add to these motions.

That is also my experience. Indeed, I got a free diverter valve on my second tractor and not knowing any better I installed it. It works but I make more mistakes with it than I ever did with the rear remote. Easy to push a button a little too soon or too late when working with the joystick. Impossible to open or close the grapple accidentally when using a separate lever that requires you to move your hand off the joystick.

 

[k0ua]

That is also my experience. Indeed, I got a free diverter valve on my second tractor and not knowing any better I installed it. It works but I make more mistakes with it than I ever did with the rear remote. Easy to push a button a little too soon or too late when working with the joystick. Impossible to open or close the grapple accidentally when using a separate lever that requires you to move your hand off the joystick.

Yep, I am not trying to convince anyone not to get the WR long kit, as thousands have and I am sure they are enjoying using them. But my system is working well for me, and I just offer it up for those that are thinking about a simple low cost alternative method of controlling their grapple.

 

[bindian]

I've got eight years experience with grapples (3 with remote, 5 with diverter) and during that time have never once had a task that required simultaneous dump/open or curl/close. If dumping into a fire, drive forward, open and dump. Most people with grapples are just fine with either rear remotes or a diverter. I don't recall anyone giving up in frustration and installing an electric over hydraulic (true third function) after spending even one day learning to operate a grapple. Most people who install the more expensive controllers do so either because a dealer talked them into it or they were talked into it here on TBN. The fact that you will see almost no one who starts off with rear remotes or diverter move up to true third function says a lot IMO. In my own experience, the diverter is not worth it either. So long as the tractor has a rear remote controller in a convenient location, the money and complexity of a diverter valve can be saved. Much better for overall tractor efficiency to add another specialized implement than spend money on control valves.

Never said anything about dumping in a fire.....I said restacking it. That is precisely picking up burning and smoking stumps as fast as you can to rearrange the pile before the smoke comes back on you. You know, to get it to burn better.
Maybe I am using the wrong term. I can curl, then hit my thumb button and close the grapple. They don't move both at the same time. I am saying having your hand left on the joystick is way faster than moving between two different controls in two different positions.

My diverter valve is controlled by an elelctric valve switching flow of hydraulic fluid. Thus it is a electric/hydraulic diverter valve. It is not a third function valve. An electric/hyd. diverter valve does three functions with two circuits....thus it diverts the flow.

Oh yeah.........I'm so glad you stated how much experience you have. It always trumps out other's opinions.
Brandi

 

[IslandTractor]

Never said anything about dumping in a fire.....I said restacking it. That is precisely picking up burning and smoking stumps as fast as you can to rearrange the pile before the smoke comes back on you. You know, to get it to burn better.
Maybe I am using the wrong term. I can curl, then hit my thumb button and close the grapple. They don't move both at the same time. I am saying having your hand left on the joystick is way faster than moving between two different controls in two different positions.

My diverter valve is controlled by an elelctric valve switching flow of hydraulic fluid. Thus it is a electric/hydraulic diverter valve. It is not a third function valve. An electric/hyd. diverter valve does three functions with two circuits....thus it diverts the flow.

Oh yeah.........I'm so glad you stated how much experience you have. It always trumps out other's opinions.
Brandi

A diverter valve really isn't faster than using remotes. You can only operate either the loader dump/curl or the grapple at one moment in time. I've used both. No significant difference. You can go 0-60 as fast with a manual shift as with automatic. Same difference.

Not trying to be snotty by listing my experience but after many years of grapple debates I am well aware that most people advocate for what they personally chose or use and that they rarely have ever used other equipment or methods. I figured it might be relevant to point out that I have experience with both.