Stump grinder build

radios1 · May 2, 2020

something this dangerous is designed by mechanical engineers, and then tested for flaws in design, under safe conditions.. let us know somehow if you get hurt by this!!..

MELEON · May 2, 2020

Yes the whole assembly is 3/16.
The 4x4 is 1/4” and the main frame is 2x4-3/16
It’s pretty heavy

TMGT · May 2, 2020

Well heavy is good for these!
I noticed the frame in the background, see you went with a full width foot.

I have been thinking about making mine with individual feet since my area is pretty uneven and could see the full width not getting a good bite.

MELEON · May 2, 2020

I went full width for a few reasons.
1. I was scared it wouldn’t be rigid enough without it.
2. I was mostly just copying Woods design.
3. The though had never occurred to me. Lol

TMGT · May 3, 2020

MELEON said:
I went full width for a few reasons.
1. I was scared it wouldn’t be rigid enough without it.
2. I was mostly just copying Woods design.
3. The though had never occurred to me. Lol

All valid reasons lol.

I was planning on making a crossmember about 4-6in higher and leaving the "feet" with a pad similar pattern to what you have for yours just smaller.
Or make small spikes to help anchor it down so it doesnt throw my light tractor around too much.

I might be overthinking it a bit though, I have seen another design with feet rather then the full width, can't remember who make it though.

I think your thread will help re-motivate me to get working on mine again hopefully!

ptsg · May 3, 2020

radios1 said:
something this dangerous is designed by mechanical engineers, and then tested for flaws in design, under safe conditions.. let us know somehow if you get hurt by this!!..

Don't worry. From what I've seen so far, this thing will be better built than any of those sold out there.

To the OP, keep up the good work. Don't get discouraged by naysayers. Most of them never did anything by themselves, so they just won't understand the good things about homemade projects.

Looking forward for more progress.

MELEON · May 3, 2020

Radios, I think you’d be surprised at how little mechanical engineers are actually involved in the design of a lot of the equipment we buy for our tractors.

ArlyA · May 3, 2020

radios1 said:
something this dangerous is designed by mechanical engineers, and then tested for flaws in design, under safe conditions.. let us know somehow if you get hurt by this!!..

Knowing many, many mechanical (plus EE's and civils) engineers who reside around these parts, they are just people and make mistakes. This is why when you buy some tool, and later figure out it doesn't work right or breaks. In fact some shouldn't be allows to design things :laughing:.....

MELEON · May 4, 2020

My sketchiest setup on my mill so far. Light cuts.

Boring the 1-1/4” hole for main pivot pin.
Trying to keep the slop in the joints to a minimum.

TMGT · May 4, 2020

Cant tell if there's any in there but machinist jacks would help.

For standard size holes like that I've started using rotary broaches a lot more.

MELEON · May 5, 2020

I don’t have any machinists jacks. They are on my short list to make. I’ve got I 1,2,3 block with some bar stock as shims, then the strap clamps to hold those in place. All clamped in the vice.

You have a rotary broach (also on my short list) big enough to broach an 1-1/4 hole? I’d wouldn’t mind seeing a picture of that. Are the broaches that size expensive?

TMGT · May 5, 2020

Sorry, miss typed, should have said rotabroach (annular cutter). I'll typically drill those then make bushings to weld on if I need a super tight fit.

3Ts · May 6, 2020

Why not use DOM tubing? Or does it not have the tolerances you need?

MELEON · May 6, 2020

It’s kinda of a pain getting materials with this pandemic thing.
I’d have to bore out the bracket to insert the DOM tube anyway because 1” is my biggest drill bit, and im using 1-1/4” pins for that joint.

But mostly I’m just enjoying playing with my toys.

TMGT · May 6, 2020

MELEON said:
But mostly I’m just enjoying playing with my toys.

I hear that! Of course you could always use it as an excuse to buy some more toys.....

Was there a reason you didn't cut the holes out on the laser before bending?

MELEON · May 6, 2020

That piece is an off cut of the 4x4 used for the main beam.
It was at the last minute that I found out I could piggy back on one of the work orders. So I only had 1 evening to model the parts I needed. So I stuck with the parts I hadn’t bought materials for already.

I’ve only been with this company since January so I’m trying to keep my l nuisance level to a minimum.

Here’s a hasty model of what’s going on.
It’s what I do all day, and it’s the last thing I want to do when I punch out. so don’t judge it on its crudeness.

TMGT · May 6, 2020

MELEON said:
That piece is an off cut of the 4x4 used for the main beam.
It was at the last minute that I found out I could piggy back on one of the work orders. So I only had 1 evening to model the parts I needed. So I stuck with the parts I hadn’t bought materials for already.

I’ve only been with this company since January so I’m trying to keep my l nuisance level to a minimum.

View attachment 654231
Here’s a hasty model of what’s going on.
It’s what I do all day, and it’s the last thing I want to do when I punch out. so don’t judge it on its crudeness.

Ah got ya, i would definitely invest in some standard size annular cutters, perfect for what you're doing and way less of a pain then using the boring head!

Trust me, if you saw my cad work you'd probably laugh. I'm still stuck in the 2d world for the plasma right now.

MELEON · May 6, 2020

Looking at that crappy model just made me realize I screwed that bracket up. That 1 1/4 hole needs to be centred on the height or it’ll sit weird.

MELEON · May 9, 2020

Managed to salvage the main pivot bracket that I messed up. I ended welding the off cut to the top of the Bracket which allowed me to move the pivot point down to the centre of the bracket.
Made another sketchy setup on the mill to notch a piece of heavy angle iron for the cross tube.