PTO powered stump grinder build

[mikester]

Great posts, keep it up!

 

[5030]

I have a Hougen mag drill myself and it was a business expense. Problem is the cost of the Rotobroaches. They are super expensive and you cannot easily sharpen them either. I use an end mill sharpening jig on a surface grinder to sharpen then as 'offhand sharpening' like a twist drill won't work. Nice thing about the Rotobroaches is, they give you a finished hole size in one operation. My further question is, what do you have to form the radius bends in the steel? I have a set of Pexto slip rolls I procured from a plant auction as well as a Pexto hydraulic shear, though I do prefer plasma cutting steel because it's faster but more messy.

Your project looks interesting and I'm following along. In my case, buying a commercial 3 point stump grinder was the best way to go as I really don't have the time to build one and take care of customers as well as farm.

I'm also curious as to what your idea is for the final drive? If it's to be PTO direct powered, I would suggest buying an over running coupler to install between your PTO stub and the driven shaft at the least and possibly a friction slip clutch as well because you will encounter shock loads as well as the rotor on your design will freewheel when the PTO is disengaged and the heavy cutter wheel freewheels without being driven. That freewheeling rotor will destroy the PTO brake on your tractor in pretty short order plus it imparts a high shock load on the PTO clutch.

 

[jwmorris]

That’s pretty much how I have acquired my equipment, the job buys it, I keep it.

I have sharpened my annular cutters by hand but I don’t work them very hard, just didn’t have one that size.

I have a slip roll that I made I have used up to 2” box tubing but it’s only 4” wide, this is it.

Rolling metal, rings/arch’s

It’s not a tool I use everyday but has been useful over the years on a number of projects. After using It last night I made a quick video of it.

www.tractorbynet.com

The 1st photo in the OP shows the piece of rolled steel used in this project and the part it was cut from. As well as the 5th photo in post #8.

The clutching drive shaft was one of the few “brand new“ parts of the project. Also, in the 1st photo of the OP.

I did manage to drill a few more holes though, so progress was made. Cut the tubing for the pivot‘s and the bronze bushings came in.

 

[5030]

Nothing beats 660CA impregnated bronze bushings. I buy my 660 bronze bar stock direct from the manufacturer which just happens to be somewhat local for me, just like Green Manufacturing. Just turned and fitting a complete set of bushings for a Deere back hoe that the bushing were totally shot in and me making them from purchased bar stock was about 1/3rd the cost of what the dealer wanted.

I looked at a Baliegh heavy gage set of hydraulic forming rolls but the price turned me off. I'm a small shop on a limited budget so I'm always perusing the machinery auctions for items like carbide tooling and tool room cutters and such. I purchased both my Bridgeport from auctions as well as my LeBlonde Servo shift tool room large spindle bore lathe and really lucked out as neither of them were especially beat on or neglected. The table on the Series 1 has some careless divots in it but otherwise, both spindles are within tolerance and the CNC controls on the Bridgeport Machine are 100% though they are somewhat out of date. I could get the table on the Series 1 re finished but the cost was over the top compared to just dealing with it and the ball screws and leads are fine with minimal slop (0.004). I'm good with that. The prismatic Vee ways on the Servo Shift are pristine as well, which I was amazed at as usually the ways in front of the headstock tend to take a beating from lazy machinists, plus the LeBlond has the optional removable section in front of the D style headstock for swinging oversized parts.

Kind of wish my retired from employer was in the machine shop business, they weren't however so everything I have was purchased by me. I'll have to post up some pictures at some point but I'm not at all photogenic. In fact I don't even have a digital camera and my phone is capable but I'm really not.

Glad you got a PTO shaft with a slip clutch but don't forget to loosen the securing bolts up and slip it before hand as they tend to seize (friction plates to the metal driven disc when sitting), I slip mine every year on the implements that don't have a built in over running clutch. I usually take a paint marker and mark the position of the bolts before loosening them and tighten them to that mark, plus the mark will indicate if the clutch is slipping correctly.

 

[5030]

If you own a surface grinder, I would strongly suggest purchasing an end mill sharpening jig for it. I've saved a ton of money sharpening my own end mills and annular cutters versus sending them out to be sharpened. and the jigs are pretty cheap online as well. I do employ an adjustable angle table (in place of the mag chuck) when sharpening mills and cutters as it allows me to custom set the relief angles. The end mill jigs all come with the relief angles pre set and that usually don't apply to annular cutters.

If you don't we can talk (via PM) about me sharpening them. Consistent angles equal consistent hole diameter as well.

I'm a cheap date which is probably why I stay busy, actually, I have more work than I really want most times. I don't believe in screwing anyone because I don't want to be screwed either. Tit for tat so to speak.

 

[jwmorris]

Not much today, cut and drilled 10 more parts,

laid out another, I might be able to knock out tomorrow.

 

[jwmorris]

I managed to make a little headway, have my non perpendicular blade mounts all ready to go.

Cut a couple of 3 x 1/4 box tube sections that will have telescoping feet for storage.

The remaining section of boiler plate was too far off of the main frame arch for me to have hopes of getting this steel in place, so I work it a bit in the press to get it right, before hand.

I only cut one side plate but it was an almost perfect use of the drop piece of steel.

One more piece and the 3 point end is ready to prep and weld.

 

[Rustyiron]

This is really developing into a "store bought" serious attachment!
Hats off to your fab work!

 

[jwmorris]

Have the generator running like a top now and decided I needed to borrow a part from the kids seesaw, bolted on a couple hanging door skates and it seems pretty decent way to balance the grinding wheel when I’m done with it.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I built a new impeller for a snow blower and took it to a tire shop for balancing. They were so intrigued by my idea the balancing was free.

Just putting out another idea for balancing.