Starting your tractor in the winter.

[Guesseral]

Ok I have 3xx hours on my 2009 tractor and I have never used any kind of anything in my fuel, mostly use red #2 but occasionally use road diesel. I was never told to use anything in my fuel in the winter it is in the garage so I wasn't worried about gelling its always around 40 in there. Do you mean to tell me that I need something in my fuel for lubricant? What needs lubricated other than the engine oil? This is my first diesel so I am not stupid just dumb!:confused3:

 

[RoyJackson]

Ok I have 3xx hours on my 2009 tractor and I have never used any kind of anything in my fuel, mostly use red #2 but occasionally use road diesel. I was never told to use anything in my fuel in the winter it is in the garage so I wasn't worried about gelling its always around 40 in there. Do you mean to tell me that I need something in my fuel for lubricant? What needs lubricated other than the engine oil? This is my first diesel so I am not stupid just dumb!:confused3:

Here's one forum thread discussing upper cylinder lubricity:
Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

If you google this query:
Diesel Engine upper cylinder lubricity
you'll get a number of links to read. Do take the advertising links with a grain of salt.

As I'd written in a previous post...I use Power Service.My tractor, a 2000 Deere 4400, is a bit older and I have read of Deeres of that generation having upper cylinder problems that have been attributed to ULSD.
Now, I'm sure this is not isolated to Deere...it's just I read more Deere threads then any other brand.

 

[DeereMann]

Fuel pump lubricity is to minimize wear, and is a function of usage time. The fuel pump manufacturers felt strongly enough about it to demand a 460 mm 4 ball wear scar maximum, compared to API's 520 mm.

Now - when is the mean time to failure? I don't know, have not seen it. But I suspect it is meant for long use engine applications such as over-the-road class 8 truck diesels that last a million miles, not our little tractors that barely get a thousand or two hours (40mph avg x 1,000 hours ~ 40,000 miles per 1,000 hours run time). So, maybe it doesn't matter as much to us.

But - considering the fuel injection system is the most expensive part of any diesel engine by far, is it worth it to save 50 cents per fueling?

Not to me.

 

[Guesseral]

I wasn't trying to save money, I am just ignorant to things diesel. Gas engines I got covered built, rebuild, torn down you name it, just don't know squat about diesels.

 

[RoyJackson]

I wasn't trying to save money, I am just ignorant to things diesel. Gas engines I got covered built, rebuild, torn down you name it, just don't know squat about diesels.

Don't take forum responses too seriously...
TBN is a good place to learn some things about diesels, but you will get more opinion then fact...

 

[Guesseral]

Don't take forum responses too seriously...
TBN is a good place to learn some things about diesels, but you will get more opinion then fact...

I wasn't. I don't take much too seriously anymore, like I said just diesel ignorant.

 

[Jkott]

Any idea why they would say on the link to their white bottle that it is only for temps below 30F? They just trying to sell the silver bottle?

If you are on their website, they have a FAQ tab as well. They say the white bottle is safe to use year round, but the silver bottle has more Cretans boost and more detergents.

If you don't need the anti gel properties of the white bottle, then the silver bottle is a better product. If you do need the white bottle, then it does have everything you need.

 

[DarkBlack]

They did - but - not enough per EMA (Engine Manufacturers) requirements. API spec'd 520mm 4 ball wear test max scar depth, EMA spec'd 460 per fuel injection pump manufacturers. So.......fuel suppliers aren't gonna add any more cost than they're required to, hence always use a lubricity supplement.

I'm guessing you meant to say "um" not "mm". 520mm is almost 2 '

 

[DarkBlack]

Don't take forum responses too seriously...
TBN is a good place to learn some things about diesels, but you will get more opinion then fact...

I think I'll use your advice on one of your own...:laughing:

Here's one forum thread discussing upper cylinder lubricity:
Lubricity Additive Study Results - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

If you google this query:
Diesel Engine upper cylinder lubricity
you'll get a number of links to read. Do take the advertising links with a grain of salt.

As I'd written in a previous post...I use Power Service.My tractor, a 2000 Deere 4400, is a bit older and I have read of Deeres of that generation having upper cylinder problems that have been attributed to ULSD.
Now, I'm sure this is not isolated to Deere...it's just I read more Deere threads then any other brand.

All my engines- diesel, gas, propane... are brand name, well designed engines, and they rely on crankcase oil to lubricate the upper cylinder area.
That's why I don't need to buy snake oil additives.
Even a good older design uses crankcase oil to lubricate the upper cylinder

 

[TomSeller]

If you are on their website, they have a FAQ tab as well. They say the white bottle is safe to use year round, but the silver bottle has more Cretans boost and more detergents.

If you don't need the anti gel properties of the white bottle, then the silver bottle is a better product. If you do need the white bottle, then it does have everything you need.

Historically I used the silver but accidentally grabbed a white jug once last year and just stayed with it into the winter. I thought it odd the website conflicts with the labeling on the jug

 

[Rod in Forfar]

I saw this comment on another website and was wondering if it is true with all tractors.
Let it Idle
In cold weather, after your tractor has started, let it stand and run for a good 20 minutes. Adjust the idle up to around 1500-1700 RPM and just let it sit. The reason we do this is so that the heat of the engine dissapates into the transmission, transfer case and gear drives of the tractor. If we went to work right away, the gear oil is so thick that the hydraulics will not work and shifting gears is problematic.s when in cold weather.

On a recent cold day in Eastern Ontario I plugged in two tractors, a Kubota B7510 and a TAFE 351, using my new Kill-A-Watt to record the current consumed. 1 kw hour on the meter heated and started the two tractors. That can't be much over $.25, if that. Diesel has to cost more than that if used to warm up engines through idling.

(This morning was very cold, below -30C. I was happy for the 5W20 synthetic oil in my car when it started, first try.)

 

[TomSeller]

Ether button on the tractor. I saw this on YouTube. My JDs don't have this "feature"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQsFTAHGCOY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Rod in Forfar the block heaters save more than just a lot of money. They save a diesel engine a lot of stress. Our Zero Start lower radiator block heater should be heater should be here today or tomorrow for the JD backhoe and the 1976 265 MF came with one in the block. If I will plug it in for a few hours on an iced over day it starts like it was a 90F day.

Geared tractors will warm up faster (as does cars and trucks). I know BMW states not to let them warm up start moving when the engine starts.

I wonder if one has a tractor that needs to run at 1700 RPM if started may not have the wrong fluids in it. If one is going for a roll of hay I say start moving at some slow speed at once unless the manual states the tractor design is not for cold weather usage. I agree a cold diesel should not be put under more than 50% for a few minutes.

If one will can use electric block heaters then they never have a cold diesel start in the winter.

 

[DeereMann]

I'm guessing you meant to say "um" not "mm". 520mm is almost 2 '

*sigh* yes, too quick on the typing! :ashamed:

Thanks, DarkBlack