Starting your tractor in the winter.

[Ilovemytractor]

I saw this comment on another website and was wondering if it is true with all tractors.

Let it Idle
In cold weather, after your tractor has started, let it stand and run for a good 20 minutes. Adjust the idle up to around 1500-1700 RPM and just let it sit. The reason we do this is so that the heat of the engine dissapates into the transmission, transfer case and gear drives of the tractor. If we went to work right away, the gear oil is so thick that the hydraulics will not work and shifting gears is problematic. A common service task is to repair a shifter fork during a cold weather season the gear oil is so cold and thick that when the operator grabs the stick to put the tractor into gear, the shifter fork breaks off inside the transmission costly. Let the tractor warm up for a period of at least 20 minutes when in cold weather.

 

[DT86]

Perhaps in extreme cold it would take 20 min to warm up. I'm guilty of never waiting that long but I will start it and go do other things while it warms up for a min. I don't know anyone who has broken off a shift fork due to cold but it is possible.

Someone here mentioned the other day that they would engage the PTO to get the fluid going when it's cold. I assume they meant when there wasn't anything attached to the PTO, cannot remember if they mentioned that or not. My apologies to whom ever suggested this, I wish I remembered who it was.

 

[RoyJackson]

If at all possible, use a block heater for an hour before starting the tractor.
As far as how long to let it idle...I let it set until the temperature gauge is moving. (normally 5 minutes or so), then I'm on it and moving at a medium idle 1200-1500 RPM. No real load on the machine until it's thoroughly warmed up.

Added after Dave1949 made his post:
As soon as I start the tractor, I throttle up to the 1200-1500 RPM and move it out of the garage. Like Dave, I never idle it blow 1200 or so RPM...

 

[dave1949]

If you are tractor looking/planning, in a cold climate the nicest thing is to have a garage or shed that stays above freezing. Not a necessity, but nice for you and the life of the equipment.

In general, yes, you should warm up the tractor if it is outside in cold weather and 1500-1700 rpm sounds correct. Don't let it slow idle.

 

[murphy1244]

Follow your manual, you can't go wrong.

 

[sd455dan]

I saw this comment on another website and was wondering if it is true with all tractors.

Let it Idle
In cold weather, after your tractor has started, let it stand and run for a good 20 minutes. Adjust the idle up to around 1500-1700 RPM and just let it sit. The reason we do this is so that the heat of the engine dissapates into the transmission, transfer case and gear drives of the tractor. If we went to work right away, the gear oil is so thick that the hydraulics will not work and shifting gears is problematic. A common service task is to repair a shifter fork during a cold weather season the gear oil is so cold and thick that when the operator grabs the stick to put the tractor into gear, the shifter fork breaks off inside the transmission costly. Let the tractor warm up for a period of at least 20 minutes when in cold weather.

Disagree with the idle RPM- depending on the tractor that is being warmed up

I would not rev mine to 1500-1700 because both are rated @2000 as the High RPM limit.

Many older tractors produce their peak torque lower than 1500 RPM- so they will easily stay running at a lower engine speed, and since the oil is thickest at start up the higher RPM is likely to just put more stress on the oil pump drive

For a tractor with a lower rated peak engine speed, I think that 1200 RPM would be a more appropriate engine speed my:2cents:

 

[john_bud]

In real cold weather, -10f or less, latch the clutch down for the first 5ish minutes. Less drag. Then idle 5 ish minutes and move the 3pt and loader periodically. It will squeal when moved too soon or too abruptly. Listen to the machine.

 

[vtsnowedin]

My JDs operator manual has a couple of points on warm up. One is that the idle speed if you are going to idle it for more then three minutes or so should be 1200 RPM. Second is that for outside temps below 32F No 1 diesel is the recommended fuel or treated No. 2. And third to warm up the hydraulic oil just turn the steering wheel to full lock one way or the other and hold it there for no more then three minutes. This opens up the relief valve and lets the pump circulate all the hydraulic oil through the pump and valve.
On top of that I tend to just use a lower gear and take it slow the first trip up the hill while working in the cold to let everything warm up without totally wasting fuel.

 

[check]

My Kubota BX25 manual says warm it up at half throttle, which is 1500 RPM.

 

[DarkBlack]

1,500-1,700 rpm's on a freshly started really cold tractor is a sure way to keep the thick cold oil bypassing the filter and circulating unfiltered oil through the engine. Remember, many 2-4 cylinder diesels do a last moment back and forth rock when last shut down. You don't want to bypass that loosened oil/dirt at startup.
Me: 800 rpm's until the oil pressure is up( about 3-5 seconds), then 1,200 for about a minute. Then just start using it a reduced load. You can tell where you are at by the resistance of the power steering, or the speed and sound of the other hydraulics.

 

[LD1]

Mine warms up while it is working.

I dont have super cold weather. And if it is super cold, with no cab, I'm not on the tractor anyway. 20ish F is about the coldest I work mine.

Now I dont go and work the pi$$ out of it in the first 10 minutes or so. But there is hardly a load difference between high idle and just putting around, hooking implements, loading on trailer, or just moving a few peices of firewood to the garage.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I would use a block heater if at all possible... I do on my trucks once it gets down to the mid-30's just so things are warmed up... nice to have heat quick! I will be looking for a block heater for the new 3005, and have used the one on the mf135 as needed for 35 yrs. The advantages of having things warm at start up include less wear and tear and being able to go right away.

 

[Egon]

If you are tractor looking/planning, in a cold climate the nicest thing is to have a garage or shed that stays above freezing. Not a necessity, but nice for you and the life of the equipment.

In general, yes, you should warm up the tractor if it is outside in cold weather and 1500-1700 rpm sounds correct. Don't let it slow idle.

You want the temperature just below freeing to avoid condensation.

 

[check]

1,500-1,700 rpm's on a freshly started really cold tractor is a sure way to keep the thick cold oil bypassing the filter and circulating unfiltered oil through the engine. Remember, many 2-4 cylinder diesels do a last moment back and forth rock when last shut down. You don't want to bypass that loosened oil/dirt at startup.
Me: 800 rpm's until the oil pressure is up( about 3-5 seconds), then 1,200 for about a minute. Then just start using it a reduced load. You can tell where you are at by the resistance of the power steering, or the speed and sound of the other hydraulics.

I don't get it. My BX 25 idle speed is over 1200 RPM. Why would Kubota build a tractor that damages it self even at idle speed, and then recommend that you warm it up at an even faster speed of around 1500 RPM? It just doesn't make sense. (We get temperatures down to -30° in the winter.)

 

[RalphVa]

Manuals never say to do this; mine haven't.

I start and go, gently. After a bit of warmup, then near full throttle, but only as much as needed.

The HST oil isn't that heavy. It's basically 5 wt or, at most, 10 wt oil. The FWD oil will be a bit gummy, but it doesn't have to go anywhere.

Ralph

 

[DarkBlack]

I don't get it. My BX 25 idle speed is over 1200 RPM. Why would Kubota build a tractor that damages it self even at idle speed, and then recommend that you warm it up at an even faster speed of around 1500 RPM? It just doesn't make sense. (We get temperatures down to -30° in the winter.)

If 1,200 is your minimum speed then that's it. Mine can go down to 800. I made the post to offer insight to those who might like it.
Manuals have to be simplistic "one size fits all" directions that encompass many variables and pros/cons tradeoffs. By all means follow your manual when in doubt.

 

[dave1949]

You want the temperature just below freeing to avoid condensation.

What condensation do you speak of? In cold weather the dew point is usually below freezing.

I don't think the OP has a tractor yet. I'm sure he will read and heed his manual when he has one.

Unless things have changed a lot in the past couple of years, diesel engines should not sit at low idle speeds, warm or cold.

My Ford F250 diesel had a sensor that would kick the rpm's up when it was cold started and not being driven. Large truck engines have a throttle knob used to raise the idle rpm's when warming up, or running overnight parked. I don't recall the exact speed, but something around 1200 rpm I think.

My gear-driven tractor sits in a garage at around 40* overnight in winter. I start it up at idle but within 5 secs. I raise the rpm's to around 1500 rpm's. I don't put a load on the engine or run it any faster than that until it has had a chance to warm up a bit, say 5-10 minutes. During that time I use the loader lightly to clean-up snow around the overhead door.

Obviously, starting at 40* is going to be different than a machine that has sat outside in winter. I think it reduces a lot of the wear and tear associated with cold starts and reduces or eliminates other issues like gelling and icing in the fuel. Also the snow and ice will melt off when you put it away and everything dries off, another good thing. I can't help but think that a garage that stays above freezing is a great thing to have.

 

[TerryR]

My JDs operator manual has a couple of points on warm up. ... Second is that for outside temps below 32F No 1 diesel is the recommended fuel or treated No. 2.

My JD manual says the same thing. But what is No 1. diesel? When I asked my fuel dealer he said there was no such thing - No 1. is kerosene.

Terry

 

[vtsnowedin]

My JD manual says the same thing. But what is No 1. diesel? When I asked my fuel dealer he said there was no such thing - No 1. is kerosene.

Terry

No 1 Diesel is not something you will ever see or need down in NC. It is common in the winter months up here and in Canada.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I don't get it. My BX 25 idle speed is over 1200 RPM. Why would Kubota build a tractor that damages it self even at idle speed, and then recommend that you warm it up at an even faster speed of around 1500 RPM? It just doesn't make sense. (We get temperatures down to -30° in the winter.)

The engines of JDs and Kubota’s are quite different in design and weight and what is right for one could be quite wrong for the other. Go by your manufacturers’ recommendations.