Starting your tractor in the winter.

[LD1]

Mine warms up while it is working.

I dont have super cold weather. And if it is super cold, with no cab, I'm not on the tractor anyway. 20ish F is about the coldest I work mine.

Now I dont go and work the pi$$ out of it in the first 10 minutes or so. But there is hardly a load difference between high idle and just putting around, hooking implements, loading on trailer, or just moving a few peices of firewood to the garage.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I would use a block heater if at all possible... I do on my trucks once it gets down to the mid-30's just so things are warmed up... nice to have heat quick! I will be looking for a block heater for the new 3005, and have used the one on the mf135 as needed for 35 yrs. The advantages of having things warm at start up include less wear and tear and being able to go right away.

 

[Egon]

If you are tractor looking/planning, in a cold climate the nicest thing is to have a garage or shed that stays above freezing. Not a necessity, but nice for you and the life of the equipment.

In general, yes, you should warm up the tractor if it is outside in cold weather and 1500-1700 rpm sounds correct. Don't let it slow idle.

You want the temperature just below freeing to avoid condensation.

 

[check]

1,500-1,700 rpm's on a freshly started really cold tractor is a sure way to keep the thick cold oil bypassing the filter and circulating unfiltered oil through the engine. Remember, many 2-4 cylinder diesels do a last moment back and forth rock when last shut down. You don't want to bypass that loosened oil/dirt at startup.
Me: 800 rpm's until the oil pressure is up( about 3-5 seconds), then 1,200 for about a minute. Then just start using it a reduced load. You can tell where you are at by the resistance of the power steering, or the speed and sound of the other hydraulics.

I don't get it. My BX 25 idle speed is over 1200 RPM. Why would Kubota build a tractor that damages it self even at idle speed, and then recommend that you warm it up at an even faster speed of around 1500 RPM? It just doesn't make sense. (We get temperatures down to -30° in the winter.)

 

[RalphVa]

Manuals never say to do this; mine haven't.

I start and go, gently. After a bit of warmup, then near full throttle, but only as much as needed.

The HST oil isn't that heavy. It's basically 5 wt or, at most, 10 wt oil. The FWD oil will be a bit gummy, but it doesn't have to go anywhere.

Ralph

 

[DarkBlack]

I don't get it. My BX 25 idle speed is over 1200 RPM. Why would Kubota build a tractor that damages it self even at idle speed, and then recommend that you warm it up at an even faster speed of around 1500 RPM? It just doesn't make sense. (We get temperatures down to -30° in the winter.)

If 1,200 is your minimum speed then that's it. Mine can go down to 800. I made the post to offer insight to those who might like it.
Manuals have to be simplistic "one size fits all" directions that encompass many variables and pros/cons tradeoffs. By all means follow your manual when in doubt.

 

[dave1949]

You want the temperature just below freeing to avoid condensation.

What condensation do you speak of? In cold weather the dew point is usually below freezing.

I don't think the OP has a tractor yet. I'm sure he will read and heed his manual when he has one.

Unless things have changed a lot in the past couple of years, diesel engines should not sit at low idle speeds, warm or cold.

My Ford F250 diesel had a sensor that would kick the rpm's up when it was cold started and not being driven. Large truck engines have a throttle knob used to raise the idle rpm's when warming up, or running overnight parked. I don't recall the exact speed, but something around 1200 rpm I think.

My gear-driven tractor sits in a garage at around 40* overnight in winter. I start it up at idle but within 5 secs. I raise the rpm's to around 1500 rpm's. I don't put a load on the engine or run it any faster than that until it has had a chance to warm up a bit, say 5-10 minutes. During that time I use the loader lightly to clean-up snow around the overhead door.

Obviously, starting at 40* is going to be different than a machine that has sat outside in winter. I think it reduces a lot of the wear and tear associated with cold starts and reduces or eliminates other issues like gelling and icing in the fuel. Also the snow and ice will melt off when you put it away and everything dries off, another good thing. I can't help but think that a garage that stays above freezing is a great thing to have.

 

[TerryR]

My JDs operator manual has a couple of points on warm up. ... Second is that for outside temps below 32F No 1 diesel is the recommended fuel or treated No. 2.

My JD manual says the same thing. But what is No 1. diesel? When I asked my fuel dealer he said there was no such thing - No 1. is kerosene.

Terry

 

[vtsnowedin]

My JD manual says the same thing. But what is No 1. diesel? When I asked my fuel dealer he said there was no such thing - No 1. is kerosene.

Terry

No 1 Diesel is not something you will ever see or need down in NC. It is common in the winter months up here and in Canada.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I don't get it. My BX 25 idle speed is over 1200 RPM. Why would Kubota build a tractor that damages it self even at idle speed, and then recommend that you warm it up at an even faster speed of around 1500 RPM? It just doesn't make sense. (We get temperatures down to -30° in the winter.)

The engines of JDs and Kubota’s are quite different in design and weight and what is right for one could be quite wrong for the other. Go by your manufacturers’ recommendations.