Shop ideas to consider

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Recliner!

 

[CliffordK]

Don't forget the utility sink.

I'd also like to add a washing machine and perhaps a dryer in the shop.

 

[D&D]

Recliner!

Unsupervised napping causes other issues.

 

[3Ts]

I have a couch and a toaster oven, along with a utility sink and washing machine. But no dryer - intentionally. The plan is to hang clothes washed in the shop out in the sun to dry and sanitize. Some of the stuff I work with doesn't completely wash out and needs to air dry.

Also consider fire extinguisher(s).

I have a 2" square tube (trailer hitch receiver) embedded in the driveway concrete so I can put a vise on a post and really pull and twist on it.

 

[dieselscout80]

I have a couch and a toaster oven, along with a utility sink and washing machine. But no dryer - intentionally. The plan is to hang clothes washed in the shop out in the sun to dry and sanitize. Some of the stuff I work with doesn't completely wash out and needs to air dry.

Also consider fire extinguisher(s).

I have a 2" square tube (trailer hitch receiver) embedded in the driveway concrete so I can put a vise on a post and really pull and twist on it.

Did you put the 2” receiver in before the driveway was done or afterwards?

if afterwards I like to know how you did it.

 

[WinterDeere]

A mini-fridge and microwave oven.

I actually have that, plus a little kitchenette, in my garage. It's a walk across the driveway from my shop, but close enough, and still keeps me from having to take off my boots to fetch a beer or snack.

 

[WinterDeere]

Did you put the 2” receiver in before the driveway was done or afterwards?

if afterwards I like to know how you did it.

Not 3Ts, but I've resorted to using a shop vac for digging similar holes, and I'm always amazed at how well it works. Essentially, drill and air hammer a 4" diameter hole in driveway, excavate as deep as you want below that with shop vac, sink PVC tube and fixturing to hold your hitch receiver, then pour concrete. I'd make my own hitch receiver, or at least weld rebar or L-bolts to a stock one, to make it long enough to reach deep into the concrete slug. Oh, and don't forget to tape or cap both ends and any pin holes of the receiver, so it doesn't back-fill with concrete!

 

[yomax4]

I saved a spot in my new shop for a 55" flat screen. I asked the boss and I said it was ok.

 

[3Ts]

Did you put the 2” receiver in before the driveway was done or afterwards?

if afterwards I like to know how you did it.

I put it in before the driveway was poured. I welded short pieces of rebar to it and tied those into the rebar mesh for the driveway and put a stake in the receiver to hold it vertical while the concrete was poured.

Oh, and don't forget to tape or cap both ends and any pin holes of the receiver, so it doesn't back-fill with concrete!

^ this.

If you put it in after the concrete is poured, I'd do it similar to how the 2 post car lifts are done. Cut out a section of concrete (nothing circular so the new pour has resistance to twisting), excavate the hole some and tie it into the old by drilling holes and embedding rebar (horizontally) to tie it all back together.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would say the number 1 upgrade I've done is adding power (2 110v 20 amp circuits. and a 220v 30 amp), followed by throwing an old window unit AC in the wall. I know we pretty much assume power, but I used to have to drag cords out, and was limited to 15 amps of 110v. When I add the power, it was great, but then it got where you couldn't work in there, and added an old window unit, and some 1/2" Styrofoam board insulation. It doesn't say room temperature, but it's workable. Also, the concrete floor really made a huge difference

My 'shop' started out as a 100% free build, out of left over PT 4x4s, (from jobsite signs), metal roof from 'cover panels', and purlions from dunnage 2x4s, and dirt floor, and all screws where free too. Tornado took that out, and I rebuild with about $50, more salavw roof panels, salave posts, and some new purlions... Then I expanded from the original 8x12, 3 walled pole barn, But built onto the existing.

So, my biggest 'shop' advice, is have a plan. When I built it originally, I went with Very low slope, (5.5" in 8 ft) do to the short 4x4s I and for free, and I think a 6'8" roof height at the low side. So, adding on to that, I had to match those low slop, low roof design.... I really should have demo'd the old, and started from scratch.

If I was to build brand new, I'd go with min 10 ft cieling, 1 in 12 ro 2.5 in 12 roof pitch, and other improvements.

I also poured the concrete like Johnny Cash, one piece at a time, doing 4x8 sections, which leads to a ton of joints, and kinda a so-so broom finish.