Shop ideas to consider

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Recliner!

 

[CliffordK]

Don't forget the utility sink.

I'd also like to add a washing machine and perhaps a dryer in the shop.

 

[D&D]

Recliner!

Unsupervised napping causes other issues.

 

[3Ts]

I have a couch and a toaster oven, along with a utility sink and washing machine. But no dryer - intentionally. The plan is to hang clothes washed in the shop out in the sun to dry and sanitize. Some of the stuff I work with doesn't completely wash out and needs to air dry.

Also consider fire extinguisher(s).

I have a 2" square tube (trailer hitch receiver) embedded in the driveway concrete so I can put a vise on a post and really pull and twist on it.

 

[dieselscout80]

I have a couch and a toaster oven, along with a utility sink and washing machine. But no dryer - intentionally. The plan is to hang clothes washed in the shop out in the sun to dry and sanitize. Some of the stuff I work with doesn't completely wash out and needs to air dry.

Also consider fire extinguisher(s).

I have a 2" square tube (trailer hitch receiver) embedded in the driveway concrete so I can put a vise on a post and really pull and twist on it.

Did you put the 2” receiver in before the driveway was done or afterwards?

if afterwards I like to know how you did it.

 

[WinterDeere]

A mini-fridge and microwave oven.

I actually have that, plus a little kitchenette, in my garage. It's a walk across the driveway from my shop, but close enough, and still keeps me from having to take off my boots to fetch a beer or snack.

 

[WinterDeere]

Did you put the 2” receiver in before the driveway was done or afterwards?

if afterwards I like to know how you did it.

Not 3Ts, but I've resorted to using a shop vac for digging similar holes, and I'm always amazed at how well it works. Essentially, drill and air hammer a 4" diameter hole in driveway, excavate as deep as you want below that with shop vac, sink PVC tube and fixturing to hold your hitch receiver, then pour concrete. I'd make my own hitch receiver, or at least weld rebar or L-bolts to a stock one, to make it long enough to reach deep into the concrete slug. Oh, and don't forget to tape or cap both ends and any pin holes of the receiver, so it doesn't back-fill with concrete!

 

[yomax4]

I saved a spot in my new shop for a 55" flat screen. I asked the boss and I said it was ok.

 

[3Ts]

Did you put the 2” receiver in before the driveway was done or afterwards?

if afterwards I like to know how you did it.

I put it in before the driveway was poured. I welded short pieces of rebar to it and tied those into the rebar mesh for the driveway and put a stake in the receiver to hold it vertical while the concrete was poured.

Oh, and don't forget to tape or cap both ends and any pin holes of the receiver, so it doesn't back-fill with concrete!

^ this.

If you put it in after the concrete is poured, I'd do it similar to how the 2 post car lifts are done. Cut out a section of concrete (nothing circular so the new pour has resistance to twisting), excavate the hole some and tie it into the old by drilling holes and embedding rebar (horizontally) to tie it all back together.

 

[paulsharvey]

I would say the number 1 upgrade I've done is adding power (2 110v 20 amp circuits. and a 220v 30 amp), followed by throwing an old window unit AC in the wall. I know we pretty much assume power, but I used to have to drag cords out, and was limited to 15 amps of 110v. When I add the power, it was great, but then it got where you couldn't work in there, and added an old window unit, and some 1/2" Styrofoam board insulation. It doesn't say room temperature, but it's workable. Also, the concrete floor really made a huge difference

My 'shop' started out as a 100% free build, out of left over PT 4x4s, (from jobsite signs), metal roof from 'cover panels', and purlions from dunnage 2x4s, and dirt floor, and all screws where free too. Tornado took that out, and I rebuild with about $50, more salavw roof panels, salave posts, and some new purlions... Then I expanded from the original 8x12, 3 walled pole barn, But built onto the existing.

So, my biggest 'shop' advice, is have a plan. When I built it originally, I went with Very low slope, (5.5" in 8 ft) do to the short 4x4s I and for free, and I think a 6'8" roof height at the low side. So, adding on to that, I had to match those low slop, low roof design.... I really should have demo'd the old, and started from scratch.

If I was to build brand new, I'd go with min 10 ft cieling, 1 in 12 ro 2.5 in 12 roof pitch, and other improvements.

I also poured the concrete like Johnny Cash, one piece at a time, doing 4x8 sections, which leads to a ton of joints, and kinda a so-so broom finish.

 

[D&D]

I saved a spot in my new shop for a 55" flat screen. I asked the boss and I said it was ok.

I’ve got one hung with a laptop connected. I like to put up wiring diagrams, makes them much easier to scan from either side.

 

[jaxs]

An overhead trolly with electric winch will be used more with each passing year. Mine was an afterthought and cobbled togeather with founds and freebees that doesn't support alot of weight but is a back saver. The older you get the more you appreciate help with lifting and carrying. I've had a roll around engine hoist from day one then picked up a Hoyer lift to handle less than 300Lb duty off Craigslist for $75 that has easily been worth 5x that in 2 years,wish I'd thought of it 10 years earlier. Doing much more than add fuel and check oil I set push mower on bench with the Hoyer. I second the motion on what others say about painting everything white before moving in. Big fridge with big mugs in the freezer.

 

[WinterDeere]

I’ve got one hung with a laptop connected. I like to put up wiring diagrams, makes them much easier to scan from either side.

Oh, that reminds me, pull some cat 5e or cat 6 wiring to the shop from the house, along with coax, and a few extra AWG-12 conductors that will inevitably be used for 3-way switches for outside lights, etc.

I spent my first several years in this house, with no internet in my shop, and it was a constant PITA.

 

[ultrarunner]

An overhead trolly with electric winch will be used more with each passing year. Mine was an afterthought and cobbled togeather with founds and freebees that doesn't support alot of weight but is a back saver. The older you get the more you appreciate help with lifting and carrying. I've had a roll around engine hoist from day one then picked up a Hoyer lift to handle less than 300Lb duty off Craigslist for $75 that has easily been worth 5x that in 2 years,wish I'd thought of it 10 years earlier. Doing much more than add fuel and check oil I set push mower on bench with the Hoyer. I second the motion on what others say about painting everything white before moving in. Big fridge with big mugs in the freezer.

I got a freebie Hoyer… it serves a purpose.

 

[Creamer]

I have an insulated shop but do not use it often so I tend to keep it just above freezing. I chose a ventless infrared heater because when I pull in a vehicle to work on it heats the vehicle not the air around the vehicle which then slowly heats the vehicle - much nicer to work on that way. What I did not think of was there is a lot of H2O coming out of the heater and I needed to add a dehumidifier to keep the building from raining on all my stuff.

 

[CliffordK]

I just spent half the day crawling under my 42,000 lb Caterpillar. A 50,000 lb lift isn't in the planning.

So, a couple of things to consider.

1: A really big shop door.
2: A work Trench/Pit.

 

[CliffordK]

 

[dstig1]

That pit is super awesome. And I expect real cheap...not!

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Safer and better than a lift! Actually just a well made pit would be fine. I've heard things like fumes can be dangerous but and exhaust system would be fine.

 

[CliffordK]

That pit is super awesome. And I expect real cheap...not!

Yeah, from their descriptions of each one being semi-custom. Each engineered. Etc. I'm guessing the sky's the limit.

Yet, they appear to be basic hydraulic over cable operated lifts. Probably a lot less lift than your basic 2 or 4 post lifts.

You'll see 4 vertical channel iron pieces near the ends of the lift with a cable inside.

In the brochure, there is a photo showing the horizontal hydraulic cylinder and the cables.

The rated lift capacity is lower than I'd anticipate. About 900kg. So, enough to left a person, and quite a few tools. But, it falls short of being stable to drive on.