Sharpen chain saw?

[Phred]

As you may have noticed from my last post I now have a greater appreciation for how easy it it to dull a chain saw.
The local dealer would be glad to sharpen the chain for me for ~$5 a pop.
There must be a better way.

Who makes a good guide? Any method that folks recommend?

Thanks,

Fred

 

[kcbarnes]

I just sharpen them myself with a dremel in the basement or an oregon 12 volt sharpener when in the woods. I just try to keep the same angles as the chain had as I do it. I can buy 20" loops online for 20.00 so if I only get a minimum of 7-8 sharpenings per loop I figure I'm still ahead

Kevin

 

[GlueGuy]

I use a little file that came with the saw when I bought it. Takes about 10 minutes to do. I just chuck the chainsaw into the vise on the workbench (clamp onto the chainsaw bar), and work on one tooth at a time (left-side), then switch to the other side. One of those little sharpener doo-dads that they sell at Northern tool might be a bit quicker (or do like Kevin does), but it really isn't a big deal.

The GlueGuy

 

[woodmills1]

i have taught many people to sharpen their own chains and have found it is one of those jobs that not every one can do. although it is not very hard there are a few pitfalls. first like the previous info stated sooner is better, don't wait! the minutes you spend will be made up in faster cutting. second practice on a good chain to get a feel for the top and side angles. with a good chain you will see and feel the proper direction. third only push the file from the back of the tooth to the front, and wear gloves, saw chain will bite you very quickly. fourth the same number of push strokes for each tooth. fifth adjust tension. and finally as you get good at sharpening watch the tooth height compared to the raker height.

James "woody" Mills

 

[Boondox]

I was going to tell you how I sharpen them, but Woody's description is about the best I've ever seen. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif About the only thing I do that he didn't mention is to clamp the bar (I use a beat up little vice mounted on a sawhorse) to make it easier to file.

www.GatewayToVermont.com

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

<font color=blue>push the file from the back of the tooth to the front</font color=blue>

woodmills, Good advise to get the feel of filing on a new chain, the depth angle guide is also a handy tool for starters.

I do just the opposite if I understand what your saying. Why back to front? This leaves a wire edge on the tooth and when it breaks the cutting edge is not as fine. What am I missing? This wouldn't be the first time I found out I have been doing things wrong for 1/2 my life/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Also, I have never been too fond of the hand held electric whiz bang sharpening thingy's.
Al

 

[Youare]

There are two different devices that I have used and like. One is made by Oregon, it is about 1 1/4" wide and alomst as long as the file. The file is secured to this plate which rides on the top of the tooth and the raker controling the file depth. The guide has marks along the top that you line up with the bar controling the angle. The only thing the operator has to monitor is the angle perpendicular (sp) to the bar, usually around 10 degrees.

There is another device I kind of like for a quick fix. It is a little roller guide that fits over the saw chain. You simply lay your file on top of the rollers, which gets you at the right angle and stroke away. Using the proper size file is important. Of course the rakers will have to be touched every once in a while.

Several years ago I made a device that I clamp in the workbench vice that holds the chain like it would be when on the saw. It actually pinches the drive portion of the chain. This way I can turn the chain around and file the akward side with less of a problem. It also holds the chain from rocking while I groom the rakers.


Randy

 

[woodmills1]

TT i guess it works front to back as long as you only use the file in one direction. I think my clumsyness would cause more bleeding in that direction.

James "woody" Mills

 

[beenthere]

Excellent advice. I always sharpen my chains by hand, and no longer use the guide. Your advice couldn't be better (I use the vice to hold the bar too), and I hope everyone is doing themselves a favor and listening to you (or is it 'reading' you?). Thanks for the clarity of your message.

 

[DFB]

There's also an old thread in the Off Topic and Just for Fun forum that covers saw chain sharpening too.
The photo attachments are long gone /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif but the links are still good.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=off&Number=23704&page=&view=&sb=&part=all&vc=1

DFB

 

[PTRich]

I hate using dull chains, they are dangerous and make you over work the saw. I have a Husky 262 and a 272. When I cut I start with both saws fully fueled and fresh chains. I bought a grinder for doing chains from northern tool, it works very well and quickly. I have a lot of chains and bring fresh ones with me when I cut. When the chains are dull on both saws I change both. While this works good for me I have friends that think I am crazy. They sharpen there chains buy hand, some with guides, some with out. They only take the chain off when they can not sharpen it by hand anymore. If you do sharpen your chains buy hand the key is to do it at the first sign of dulling. The good thing about a hand file is in most cases the chain will last longer. A grinder nocks quit a bit of material off and if you do it to fast you can over heat the teeth and do some damage.

Good Luck PTRich

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

James(woody)
I get confused easily and more so every day/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif When I said front to back, I was talking about the direction of the file on the tooth. The sequence I follow on the teeth is those closest to the power head, working towards the tip, and yes don't drag the file back and forth across the tooth. I have a friend that has worked in the woods all his working life as a topper. He once free climbed a big Doug Fir to 120 feet before he could get his safety line around the thing. He files his chains back to front (trailing edge to cutting edge). When I asked him why he said "cuss" thats it.
Al

 

[Henry]

I agree with Woody. That's the way my Daddy taught me to sharpen chains.... back to front with a steady angle.

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Henry,
You sound like my friend with the "cuss' answer/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif, but I think you are also correct.
I did a quick search and found this rig Grandberg File Looks to me like it's back to front. You, Woody and the rest of the free world have it right and I've been doing it wrong or at least non-optimum./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif
Al

 

[jdkid]

Hi ya
Ihad one like that years ago bit fiddly tho i use a file for day to day touch ups and have a 12V grinder to get the cutters back in shape every now and then or drop it into the shop to do the leaders and sharpen it back to true spec's .one thing we used to do was lean the saw bar over a log on a angle so the angle of cut was =to the ground then file flat to ground each cutter has the same angle on it that way
catch ya
JD Kid

 

[fishman]

Phred,

Someone posted this link a while back http://www.baileys-online.com

I just received their catalog this week and it's a good one, entertaining as well. There are several types of sharpeners available. As an aside, they also have good prices on chaps. I am going to take everyone's advice an buy a pair/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I have had good luck sharpening with a bar-mount filing tool, and taking the chain to the saw guy occasionally to true it up. Saw chains will last a while with this method.