Full figured 25hp Tractors

[paulsharvey]

Good to hear you're happy! Do you mind snapping a picture of where your soft hydraulic lines are hanging? I'm wondering if it's the area I'm thinking of.
Your tires sound like they're getting uncomfortably close.

Here is a picture, showing distance from back of front right tire to the hydralic lines. Whne you cut the wheel all the way, the outside edge of that tire gets probably within a 1/2" of the line wrap fabric .

 

[tacticalturnip]

I can't imagine it's much if any different from how it sits on my 2610, but I'll take a look. Maybe I just never noticed how close the wheel cuts.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Thanks for snapping the picture!

 

[Paystar]

Still, never talk about a budget up front. Look at the tractor you need for what you want to get done. If it's 25hp then so be it. Let the dealer talk money. Do your research before you get there. 20% off for a 2023 would just start me thinking since they've already been marked up at least 10% since summer. Any way, you got what you got. If you're happy, that's what counts.

Sounds like the mine I work at. Went to the Kenworth dealer to order a new float tractor and said "we have a $200,000 budget." Salesman was all smiles as he announced "We just met your budget!!" So they got a $190,000 bare day cab. No sunvisor on cab, no radio, only 5 basic gauges in dash, etc. I laughed at them. I said for that money (back at that time) I could have got them a fully loaded truck with more power and better specs from my dealer.

 

[Williy]

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.willy

 

[2manyrocks]

Here is a picture, showing distance from back of front right tire to the hydralic lines. Whne you cut the wheel all the way, the outside edge of that tire gets probably within a 1/2" of the line wrap fabric .View attachment 819846

Given the position of the connectors and the bracket that holds them to the frame, I'm not seeing many options to increase the clearance. However, if those lines were to droop much more or the tire were to kick up a piece of log, that could be a problem.

 

[arto98607]

Here is a picture, showing distance from back of front right tire to the hydralic lines. Whne you cut the wheel all the way, the outside edge of that tire gets probably within a 1/2" of the line wrap fabric .

Looks like maybe the installer or manufacturer skipped 45 degree elbows and used hoses longer than needed!

It's too bad Ford sold their tractor business long time ago - they had very good designers, but I suppose their accountants run the business and saw the writing on the wall?

 

[2manyrocks]

Maybe find an angle adapter at Surplus Center and reposition those hoses?

 

[paulsharvey]

I dont know if other people like updates, but when I read 100+ posts; sometimes I like to have them on others threads. We are at like 15 months of ownership now; with only 80 hours; and I've got a few bullet points;
1) I did end up loading the tires after I got myself in a sketch situation; it improves traction, but it doesn't turn a CK2610 into a heavy earth mover
2) I was more worried about HP for PTO than I should have been; BUT 25hp starts showing it's limits when moving a hundred cubic yards of dirt up a pretty steep hill. Medium range starts being iffy. Also, when your worried about getting stuck, you can't always use low range, cause you don't get any momentum
3) this applies to the CK2610 specifically; and it's not a big deal for me; but the paint isn't very durable. Where my feet or heel rest on the right side wore to primer in just 50 hours; doesn't take much of a stick to scratch the paint.
4) Overall, I'm still glad I got R-14 tires, but when in loose/sandy material, on a slope, they aren't equal to an ag tire.
5) I will probably be stretching it's capacity at the new home/property; and may either turn up the fuel supply to try to get that free 35hp, both for power and to run (hopefully) a 6 ft bushhog; or a may move upto a larger machine in a few years
6) on the plus, to avoid sounded negative (which I'm not), it is Way more manueverable in the wood and around obstacles than my old machine;
7) at no point have I wished I had got a cab (yet)
8) I kinda figured I'd mow more with this machine and a flail mower than I do. For quick yard mowing, I still prefer the old clapped out JD riding mower,

As for actual problems; none really. The 50 hr service was easy, I like the fueling location, air filter is easily accessible (although being so low, and at the dirty end, it needs blown out after 8 hrs of dirt moving)

 

[arrow]

I dont know if other people like updates, but when I read 100+ posts; sometimes I like to have them on others threads. We are at like 15 months of ownership now; with only 80 hours; and I've got a few bullet points;
1) I did end up loading the tires after I got myself in a sketch situation; it improves traction, but it doesn't turn a CK2610 into a heavy earth mover
2) I was more worried about HP for PTO than I should have been; BUT 25hp starts showing it's limits when moving a hundred cubic yards of dirt up a pretty steep hill. Medium range starts being iffy. Also, when your worried about getting stuck, you can't always use low range, cause you don't get any momentum
3) this applies to the CK2610 specifically; and it's not a big deal for me; but the paint isn't very durable. Where my feet or heel rest on the right side wore to primer in just 50 hours; doesn't take much of a stick to scratch the paint.
4) Overall, I'm still glad I got R-14 tires, but when in loose/sandy material, on a slope, they aren't equal to an ag tire.
5) I will probably be stretching it's capacity at the new home/property; and may either turn up the fuel supply to try to get that free 35hp, both for power and to run (hopefully) a 6 ft bushhog; or a may move upto a larger machine in a few years
6) on the plus, to avoid sounded negative (which I'm not), it is Way more manueverable in the wood and around obstacles than my old machine;
7) at no point have I wished I had got a cab (yet)
8) I kinda figured I'd mow more with this machine and a flail mower than I do. For quick yard mowing, I still prefer the old clapped out JD riding mower,

As for actual problems; none really. The 50 hr service was easy, I like the fueling location, air filter is easily accessible (although being so low, and at the dirty end, it needs blown out after 8 hrs of dirt moving)

Run that power increase by fuel supply addition by me again please?

 

[paulsharvey]

Run that power increase by fuel supply addition by me again please?

So, on the CK2610, there is a pressed steel cap on the pump that covers a fuel screw. The cap is crimped on to prevent you exceeding the EPA horse power to not have emissions controls. Multiple videos on the Tube about doing it, but of coarse it's voids your warranty, and is probably against some enviro law. Short version, you can use a tubing cutter or a dremel to cut that cover cap, and increase fuel and power.

Note, the videos I've watched, they all Say they got more power, but none of them dyno it or anything.

 

[paulsharvey]

I linked a video, but it was crap rambling for 30 minutes to say "yeah, it's a bit better", so rather than anyone sit though it, I deleted that post

 

[CalG]

I just read through this entire thread. I'm happy for you getting that Kioti!
But
It sure makes me appreciate my Hurlimann (Same & Lamborghini are the same tractor only different paint). The SL&H is a lot of tractor in the same size package as the CK2610.
Not hydro-static though. the Hurlimann is 12FX12R manual with synchro. two speed pto with ground speed. a pair of remotes. and a 35 HP Mitsubishi engine.
OH! Don't forget the locking front differential. It's a real go anywhere billy goat ! ;-)

I can't say what they cost these days. If I told you what I paid for mine, you would never forgive me. ;-)

 

[sandman2234]

I must have missed a lot! Last thing I remember was you were thinking about selling the old Kubota! Now you have over 50 hours on new tractor! Congratulations!
David from jax

 

[Williy]

Check this site out and don't forget to check for discounts & warranties

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willy:

 

[arrow]

So, on the CK2610, there is a pressed steel cap on the pump that covers a fuel screw. The cap is crimped on to prevent you exceeding the EPA horse power to not have emissions controls. Multiple videos on the Tube about doing it, but of coarse it's voids your warranty, and is probably against some enviro law. Short version, you can use a tubing cutter or a dremel to cut that cover cap, and increase fuel and power.

Note, the videos I've watched, they all Say they got more power, but none of them dyno it or anything.

Ok
Additional fuel power increase has to have the back up componetry but basically it’s about the air pump it’s feeding. More air exchange ability coincides with more fuel input necessity. It implies that your current set up is running lean from the factory and not taking advantage of the engines full air exchange capacity. In short, it is an agencies demands as opposed to the engines capability, that is dictating its work ability.
I sell, work on, prep, advise on and deliver tractors. When you bought this one, In my humble opinion, you were sized incorrectly.

 

[paulsharvey]

"I sell, work on, prep, advise on and deliver tractors. When you bought this one, In my humble opinion, you were sized incorrectly"

Not really; or atleast I don't feel I sized incorrectly. The dirty facts that everyone lives in, is, I was working within a budget range, and only using the tractor on a 2 acre residential lot (although I also use it on neighbors 5 acre piece). Now, here in like 21 days, we are purchasing a 14 acre peice, that also is much heavier woods.

So, if we say that out of 80 hours, 20 were spent mowing, 20 moving trees/scrap metal, 20 mowing dirt/digging a 12 ft deep, ramped down water source-hole, at about 1:5 slope, and realistically, and 20 hours of piddling; I've only found the heaviest dirt work portion to be limited by the power. Pretty early on, I think I said, if money wasn't an issue, there would be a MF1840M powershuttle sitting under the car port; but now; if money wasn't an issue. it would be a MF2860M poweshuttle.

 

[ChiefBodie]

only using the tractor on a 2 acre residential lot (although I also use it on neighbors 5 acre piece). Now, here in like 21 days, we are purchasing a 14 acre peice, that also is much heavier woods.

bigger land = bigger tractor!!

 

[big bubba]

OP: wish you the best on your purchase.This is a sub & compact forum, & i've observed 2 trends among a lot of owners. very often, owners push their smaller tractors to the safety limits on tasks that should be done with a larger tractor.

second, i've seen over & over again owners regret "upgrades" that they wish could have been larger.

as a caveat, a quick test spin around the dealers lot is a poor simulation of field use. while smaller shiny full figured sub tractors seem great on the lot, they often suddenly shrink in size & hp when delivered to site. purchase wisely, best regards

 

[Rdrcr]

So, on the CK2610, there is a pressed steel cap on the pump that covers a fuel screw. The cap is crimped on to prevent you exceeding the EPA horse power to not have emissions controls. Multiple videos on the Tube about doing it, but of coarse it's voids your warranty, and is probably against some enviro law. Short version, you can use a tubing cutter or a dremel to cut that cover cap, and increase fuel and power.

Note, the videos I've watched, they all Say they got more power, but none of them dyno it or anything.

Yep, adding fuel will give you a reasonable increase in power. Or, you can add a Turbocharger like I did on my Kubota L2501.

The L2501 went from 24 HP/19 PTO to 44.1HP/35 PTO with the Turbo Kit on the PTO dyno.

Mike