Full figured 25hp Tractors

[arto98607]

Yep, adding fuel will give you a reasonable increase in power. Or, you can add a Turbocharger like I did on my Kubota L2501.

View attachment 882001

The L2501 went from 24 HP/19 PTO to 44.1HP/35 PTO with the Turbo Kit on the PTO dyno.

Mike

I like your turbo setup, but adding just a turbo will not do much without also burning more fuel!

Just saying.

 

[arrow]

"I sell, work on, prep, advise on and deliver tractors. When you bought this one, In my humble opinion, you were sized incorrectly"

Not really; or atleast I don't feel I sized incorrectly. The dirty facts that everyone lives in, is, I was working within a budget range, and only using the tractor on a 2 acre residential lot (although I also use it on neighbors 5 acre piece). Now, here in like 21 days, we are purchasing a 14 acre peice, that also is much heavier woods.

So, if we say that out of 80 hours, 20 were spent mowing, 20 moving trees/scrap metal, 20 mowing dirt/digging a 12 ft deep, ramped down water source-hole, at about 1:5 slope, and realistically, and 20 hours of piddling; I've only found the heaviest dirt work portion to be limited by the power. Pretty early on, I think I said, if money wasn't an issue, there would be a MF1840M powershuttle sitting under the car port; but now; if money wasn't an issue. it would be a MF2860M poweshuttle.

Ok
If the dealership was going by your 2 acre usage, l can see pointing you to this machine.
The other criteria was expenditure which is always a consideration and for most, the first.
If you feel this tractor is right for you, then embellish it. Do the power adder thing and then try to place an additional 3 to 400 lbs more to it.
If the customer is unsure about the usage factor and is shopping at our place, we give two more options: l will go out to the property within a 100 mile radius to scope it out or after a 7 day trial and the customer unhappy, we will give the entire amount back that they paid for their machine toward what they really want.
This works in reverse sizing as well if what they purchased, they find too large.

 

[tacticalturnip]

Ok
If the dealership was going by your 2 acre usage, l can see pointing you to this machine.
The other criteria was expenditure which is always a consideration and for most, the first.
If you feel this tractor is right for you, then embellish it. Do the power adder thing and then try to place an additional 3 to 400 lbs more to it.
If the customer is unsure about the usage factor and is shopping at our place, we give two more options: l will go out to the property within a 100 mile radius to scope it out or after a 7 day trial and the customer unhappy, we will give the entire amount back that they paid for their machine toward what they really want.
This works in reverse sizing as well if what they purchased, they find too large.

It sounds like you work for some good folks.

 

[paulsharvey]

@arrow I see a bit of the misunderstanding; I went and looked at what I wanted, based on my own thoughts and my own budget, some advice from on here, and didn't discuss or ask for the advice of the salesman.

So, if I made a mistake, and I don't feel I did, it's all on me (and yall too

I believe somewhere untoward the top, I mentioned that if later I needed more machine, I would burn that bridge.

 

[Rdrcr]

I like your turbo setup, but adding just a turbo will not do much without also burning more fuel!

Just saying.

Thank you. Yes, a combination of the two is required for a substantial increase in power.

Mike

 

[LouNY]

I dont know if other people like updates, but when I read 100+ posts; sometimes I like to have them on others threads. We are at like 15 months of ownership now; with only 80 hours; and I've got a few bullet points;
1) I did end up loading the tires after I got myself in a sketch situation; it improves traction, but it doesn't turn a CK2610 into a heavy earth mover
2) I was more worried about HP for PTO than I should have been; BUT 25hp starts showing it's limits when moving a hundred cubic yards of dirt up a pretty steep hill. Medium range starts being iffy. Also, when your worried about getting stuck, you can't always use low range, cause you don't get any momentum
3) this applies to the CK2610 specifically; and it's not a big deal for me; but the paint isn't very durable. Where my feet or heel rest on the right side wore to primer in just 50 hours; doesn't take much of a stick to scratch the paint.
4) Overall, I'm still glad I got R-14 tires, but when in loose/sandy material, on a slope, they aren't equal to an ag tire.
5) I will probably be stretching it's capacity at the new home/property; and may either turn up the fuel supply to try to get that free 35hp, both for power and to run (hopefully) a 6 ft bushhog; or a may move upto a larger machine in a few years
6) on the plus, to avoid sounded negative (which I'm not), it is Way more manueverable in the wood and around obstacles than my old machine;
7) at no point have I wished I had got a cab (yet)
8) I kinda figured I'd mow more with this machine and a flail mower than I do. For quick yard mowing, I still prefer the old clapped out JD riding mower,

As for actual problems; none really. The 50 hr service was easy, I like the fueling location, air filter is easily accessible (although being so low, and at the dirty end, it needs blown out after 8 hrs of dirt moving)

Good update, glad your Kioti is working out for you.
I picked up a CK2620SE with the cab and AC last summer.
One reason I went with the 2620 is the 25 hp limit to avoid a doc/dpf in the exhaust and emission compliant common rail fuel injection.
I also will be turning the fuel screw up mine. I did get the little backhoe and while I have used it quite a bit I'm still debating with myself the usefulness of the backhoe compared to one of the chinee mini excavators for about the same money.
I am pleased with the R14 tires, I did have to add spacers to the rear for tire chain clearance.
Also I use the mid range most of the time but it will run out of power quite rapidly some times.
My driveway is steep and she can travese the entire thing with the AC on in low range with no trouble, in mid range I end up with the hand throttle maxed out and feathered most of the way out on the speed pedal to keep her above 2200 rpm in a few spots and if I'm in a hurry I'll turn the AC off for a hundred feet of the steepest.
I am going to have to put a seat riser or a stiffer spring in the seat to raise my seating position and have to watch my right knee as it has curled the bucket a few times when I wasn't paying attention.

 

[arrow]

It sounds like you work for some good folks.

They are and the only type of folks l can work for.
I just quit the other outdoor power equipment place l worked for closer to my second home, after a two month stay as l could not condone their business practices nor how they treated customers.

 

[arrow]

@arrow I see a bit of the misunderstanding; I went and looked at what I wanted, based on my own thoughts and my own budget, some advice from on here, and didn't discuss or ask for the advice of the salesman.

So, if I made a mistake, and I don't feel I did, it's all on me (and yall too

I believe somewhere untoward the top, I mentioned that if later I needed more machine, I would burn that bridge.

Much fortune and happiness w your new machine.

 

[arrow]

Yep, adding fuel will give you a reasonable increase in power. Or, you can add a Turbocharger like I did on my Kubota L2501.

View attachment 882001

The L2501 went from 24 HP/19 PTO to 44.1HP/35 PTO with the Turbo Kit on the PTO dyno.

Mike

Good work! Any cars you did this to? What charger did you use on the tractor?

 

[arrow]

OP: wish you the best on your purchase.This is a sub & compact forum, & i've observed 2 trends among a lot of owners. very often, owners push their smaller tractors to the safety limits on tasks that should be done with a larger tractor.

second, i've seen over & over again owners regret "upgrades" that they wish could have been larger.

as a caveat, a quick test spin around the dealers lot is a poor simulation of field use. while smaller shiny full figured sub tractors seem great on the lot, they often suddenly shrink in size & hp when delivered to site. purchase wisely, best regards

You are correct.
All the lot test drives do is help with the feel and fit of the machine to the potential buyer.
It is the second step to any purchase the first being a discussion on customer usage.

 

[2manyrocks]

@arrow I see a bit of the misunderstanding; I went and looked at what I wanted, based on my own thoughts and my own budget, some advice from on here, and didn't discuss or ask for the advice of the salesman.

So, if I made a mistake, and I don't feel I did, it's all on me (and yall too

I believe somewhere untoward the top, I mentioned that if later I needed more machine, I would burn that bridge.

I don't believe you made a mistake. You can do a heck of a lot with the tractor you bought.

 

[arrow]

Good work! Any cars you did this to?

I don't believe you made a mistake. You can do a heck of a lot with the tractor you bought.

For the property he is on now.
If he moves to the 14 acres and using this tractor for logging, he needs some additional hp and weight.
From everything l’ve experienced with working tractors, the hydro needs at least 35 hp to equal the ground engaging power of a 25-29 hp shuttle to do the same work in a timely manner.
Depends on what the operator wants from his machine.

 

[big bubba]

amazing the tractor choices that market & tech offers to us consumers today with all our afflictions & personal preferences compared to back when in 60's & before.

but then again, i'll bet a lot of us in the forum (incl myself) have exceeded the life expectancy age back then but still crave to piddle around on our machines, & why not... regards

 

[Rdrcr]

Good work! Any cars you did this to? What charger did you use on the tractor?

Thank you!

Yes. Several throughout the years.

We used a new Mitsubishi MHI TD025 Turbocharger for the L2501.

Mike

 

[paulsharvey]

For the property he is on now.
If he moves to the 14 acres and using this tractor for logging, he needs some additional hp and weight.
From everything l’ve experienced with working tractors, the hydro needs at least 35 hp to equal the ground engaging power of a 25-29 hp shuttle to do the same work in a timely manner.
Depends on what the operator wants from his machine.

If it says anything, the property we are working on purchasing, existing owner had a TYM394 cab machine on. Now, what exactly was he using it for, other than some box blading a driveway, and bushhogging, and moving firewood, I dont know. It looks like he worked some woods edges, but really didn't do anything in the interior woods. Impliments pretty much all still had paint on them, and 6 ft disc and ssqa forks still had a paper tag on them (not that I was being nosy or anything).

 

[arrow]

If it says anything, the property we are working on purchasing, existing owner had a TYM394 cab machine on. Now, what exactly was he using it for, other than some box blading a driveway, and bushhogging, and moving firewood, I dont know. It looks like he worked some woods edges, but really didn't do anything in the interior woods. Impliments pretty much all still had paint on them, and 6 ft disc and ssqa forks still had a paper tag on them (not that I was being nosy or anything).

I am sorry the way I'm coming across.
I don't mean to throw shade on your choice of machinery.
The hydro is suitable for many. Even the lower hp ones. I used to be a logger and nothing can beat up a machine more than the woods. The woods broke skidders Let alone compact tractors.
Of all the things that break down a machine beyond particular usage, is when they are used beyond their capabilities.
We all do it with the most common abuse is to use front wheel drive when we overload the front end and the rears are just spinning when what is really needed is more ballast. Many of us utilize fwd incorrectly and for the wrong reasons.
My natural instinct of looking out for tractor owners has gotten the best of me. I haven't been asked so once again I apologize.

 

[arrow]

Thank you!

Yes. Several throughout the years.

We used a new Mitsubishi MHI TD025 Turbocharger for the L2501.

Mike

Very clever road racer. Many many years ago I was on the SCCA circuit with a 66 Mustang GT 350. That car cost me $3550. Met Paul Newman at Watkins Glenn as he was campaigning 3 Datsun Z's. He was a very humble and down to earth guy who couldn't stand Hollywood.

 

[paulsharvey]

Arrow, nothing wrong with what you are saying, and I agree with you. I was just trying to post a 100% honest update, and what limitations I've found. If I had bought a MF 2860M, I would have still found the limitations eventually.

I am very glad I didn't go with a subcompact or a large sub compact. Right now, my plan is to keep the CK2610, and work around it's limitations; BUT if I had got the MF1526, Tym 26, or RK24, I would likely be faced with Needing to upgrade.

It might sound like blasphemy, but I'll say it anyways; I have been surprised I've put a lot less hours on the machine than I expected; and there were times I asked my self, should I have just not bought it. That passed, as although it's only 80 hours or so, I've got a lot of work done that I have been delaying for years. A lot of it is small stuff, that takes 15 minutes

Edit: also, I think wife really felt it was a waste of money, and just a toy; but I think even she has come around to it being extremely useful to have around

 

[arrow]

Arrow, nothing wrong with what you are saying, and I agree with you. I was just trying to post a 100% honest update, and what limitations I've found. If I had bought a MF 2860M, I would have still found the limitations eventually.

I am very glad I didn't go with a subcompact or a large sub compact. Right now, my plan is to keep the CK2610, and work around it's limitations; BUT if I had got the MF1526, Tym 26, or RK24, I would likely be faced with Needing to upgrade.

It might sound like blasphemy, but I'll say it anyways; I have been surprised I've put a lot less hours on the machine than I expected; and there were times I asked my self, should I have just not bought it. That passed, as although it's only 80 hours or so, I've got a lot of work done that I have been delaying for years. A lot of it is small stuff, that takes 15 minutes

Edit: also, I think wife really felt it was a waste of money, and just a toy; but I think even she has come around to it being extremely useful to have around

Yes, wives hold us in check. But like the EPA, sometimes they over reach.
Average hrs from what I'm seeing at the shop per yr for the homeowner type tractor is 35-50 hrs.
Practicality is just a small part of the story with tractor ownership. What can't be measured with dollar signs, many times is more valuable.

 

[donotlickthetractor]

If it says anything, the property we are working on purchasing, existing owner had a TYM394 cab machine on. Now, what exactly was he using it for, other than some box blading a driveway, and bushhogging, and moving firewood, I dont know. It looks like he worked some woods edges, but really didn't do anything in the interior woods. Impliments pretty much all still had paint on them, and 6 ft disc and ssqa forks still had a paper tag on them (not that I was being nosy or anything).

I mean, that's easy.

It's comfortable space, with heating and air conditioning that makes a lot of noise.


Spouse: "My Mom's coming over tonight."

Neighbour: "Hun, I've got to go do some work in the treed areas! Big problem, needs to be fixed. Flood problems, don't want to wake up in a swimming pool do you?"

Drives out to the middle of the wooded area. Turns on <heat / ac >. Sleeps.