Buying Advice 75-125 HP Tractor recommendations

[stech64]

This is like asking which is better ..for,chevy or dodge.... I have 4 tractors of which all 4 are different and all 4 are different brands. Not what we were planning when we bought them but bought what was available and what we could afford at the time.
I personally would buy a 4wd if your planning any loader work at all ! My farm is hilly and don't want to ever be without one now that I've had one. I would look at one with a shuttle if possible so much quicker when doing work esp. loader work. Weight does play a part ,my 80hp 4wd weights more than my 115 hp tractor does. 125 hp seems overkill if you only have 26 acres .Pre- computer and pre def would defiantly be a must !!!!. My work-horse is my 80hp 4wd Case with a Westendorf loader self leveling, it weights 11k with fluid in the tires .Dealers do make a difference of what you purchase ,it sucks to have to drive hrs to get parts when you need them,just food for thought.

 

[Jrasband]

I have a JD5420 (85HP) and a Massey Ferguson 390T. (90 HP) both great tractors and pre-computer. Parts a not an issue on either. Lots of them around. Big heavy but very agile tractors..neither 4x4. But 4x4 models are available. I am not a 4x4 fan...if the ground is that soft I stay off of it.

Are you not doing a lot of loader work? Try backing out of a compost pile with a full bucket, impossible with 2wd.

 

[Saucymynx]

Take a look at the LSMT7101. That’s what is pictured in my profile picture. 101 engine horsepower, about 85 or so PTO horsepower. Nice size tractor. Very well equipped. 700 hours on mine with no problems. I put mine through its paces, running a high capacity, small square baler, pulling a note to drill, snowblowing, running a hydraulic post driver, etc. It has been a real workhorse. Between 20 and $30,000 less than a comparable orange or green tractor. Reputation and capabilities of your dealer are critical.

 

[rScotty]

Are you not doing a lot of loader work? Try backing out of a compost pile with a full bucket, impossible with 2wd.

I wondered about that too. I grew up on 2wd, but that was without having a FEL. Having 4wd with a front loader is a game changer.
Even on a gentle slope, using 4wd going uphill or down with a load in the FEL bucket sure helps with traction and braking.
rScotty

 

[redman135]

OP: specific tractor MODEL to avoid : JD ivt gearbox with INTERNAL gearshift solinoids. They are very expensive to fix. ie 2012 price $6000 to replace a $250 part. You have to lift the cab, shift hydraulic lines and partly disassemble the gearbox. 2nd NOTE ,the ivt with EXTERNAL solinoids is FAR cheaper to repair due to way better solinoid access.

Personally I would look at the gearbox as I have found engines in different tractors to be similar and the GEARBOX to have a bigger effect.
If only you or another high skill operator are going to use the tractor, then go for an IVT (JD), dyna vt(MF), or case or new holland equivilent if the budget allows. Think automatic or hydrostatic in EFFECT so you don't have to chase gears, just pull back on the joystick.
These are complicated to learn, and you can't let just anyone drive these tractors.
Alternative gearboxes that I have used, JD quad box, 24 sp and MF dyna 4 16 sp.
Advantage of both is they are electric shuttle shift and easy to operate once familier. ALSO you can put limited skill drivers on the tractors. Anyone who can shift a gearstick manually will be able to drive the tractor. Both gearboxes have 4 electric button gearshifts with in each stick gear. NOTE both gearboxes have an auto shift on the electric 4 sp buttton. Well worth it.
Disadvantage: Both have a stick gearshift in the main work speed of specific taskes, ie JD is stickshifting between "C" /"D" range and MF is stickshifting between 2/3 gear, when stacking round bales.

Loader suspension: If the budget allows, get it.
Loader rating. is it measured 2ft in front of the bucket pins?(real world accurate) or at bucket pins?(artificially inflated rating)
Cab: measure the head room with the seat at max height. It is a major pain in the neck when a seat slams you into the roof. Note MF has a stepped roof. Beware.
Sunroof. Will not get the drain washed out and will rust and leak. Avoid.
Cab ergonomics: try for size and control positioning. SCV controls, are the angles right for you? Can you work 2 at a time? eg old school twin rotor rake has 1 scv /rotor, for independant raise/lower for when rows and/start at an angle.
SCV outlets: 2 absolute minimum. 3 prefered and 4 if budget allows to future proof. The trend is hydraulic.
Loader controls: is your elbow slightly bent? If it is too straight you will get a sore elbow and hate loader work. Do you have enough joystick location adjustment?
Hydraulic capasity: THIS is where manufactures cheap out. There are BUDGET and PREMIUM or CONTRACTORS models. Know which is which.EG budget MF has low capasity hydraulics and a small fuel tank.
Tip 1: get the wide front tyre package if you do a lot of loader work on soft ground.(less ruts)
Tip 2:If you have new tyre on the front, get a 2nd set of front tyres 3/4 worn to avoid tearing the ground up (loader work)in summer and switch to new tyres for winter.
Note I have not said anything about New Holland or Case as I have not driven them in your size range.
I hope this will help you ask the salesfolk the right questions.
Good Luck.

 

[Wobblin-Goblin]

Are you not doing a lot of loader work? Try backing out of a compost pile with a full bucket, impossible with 2wd.

That's why God made counterweights.