I won't pretend to be an "expert" but... I have a 55hp tractor (others have larger, others have smaller- if you're looking for information that's more close to what your configuration is then I'm close)
I've run a 5' RC from a
B7800 for many years. A light-duty RC; I put it through pure heck and other than a couple of shear pins and a tail wheel it just did whatever I needed.
More and more clearing, as well as the need for some more lift capacity, led me to buy my Kioti NX5510. I bought a used 6' Bush Hog RC for it: it had been used commercially and was insanely hammered, but still functional (I've replaced the PTO shaft with a new/heavier-duty one and have had to repair the tail wheel and do some work to keep the stump jumper on the darn thing). I researched flails as I was wanting to increase mowing width (due to increasing amounts of grass areas) and didn't want a longer tail sticking out behind me (6' is enough; 7' RC isn't what I'd want). I have two other factors to consider: 1) Ditches- I needed a better way to mow out over the edges; 2) LOTS of trees (not a forest, but lots of navigation) which requires lots of turning and such. Last year I bought a 7' hydraulic-offset flail with hammers. After a couple of shake-out issues (new equipment issues- loose bolts etc.) it settled down and worked very well. I won't get rid of my 6' RC (or the 5' RC [now a different one] that's used on my
B7800), but my go-to grass (and lighter brush - supposed to handle up to 3" [or 2"?] dia material) is/will be the flail. It's better at the tasks I need to perform. Yes, flails require more maintenance. Weigh it all up. Oh, I will look to use my 6' RC first mowing (spot-mowing) to hit really nasty woody debris: I also look to do a bit more clearing, though outright clearing is really starting to come to an end as I have less clear-able areas.
The hydraulic side-shift makes it easier to work around my fence posts. Not uncommon to find that you're pinched a little too close to something and the hydraulic-side shift allows you to adjust w/o having to make big navigational adjustments on the tractor (with RCs it wasn't uncommon to have to actually back up and get swung further away to keep from getting hung up on something).
If I had wide-open hay/grass fields then perhaps a multi-spindle RC. But, all is not created equal- there's no such thing as a one-size-fits-all. I was amply familiar with my property (and had spent MANY hours running RCs) by the time I made the big leap to my flail.
Flails generally don't like tall grass, but for a test I did find that I could mow upwards of 5': I once did 9'+ with my
B7800 and that light-duty RC- can you say S-L-O-W-going? Not sure if this is/was possible because of hammers instead of knives.
I've put my flail through enough in the first year to confidently say that I have no worries about breaking a hammer: despite all that I put it through I didn't break a single one (vendor gave me a few spares for free). Might have killed a few knives if I'd had them. I do not have really rocky land (mostly just smaller rocks- some areas have fill with larger rocks but these aren't an issue).
Hammers don't do too bad of a job on grass (this is in the homestead area, which I want to look a bit less wild; RCs and flail both produce good enough results for me; far less clumping with the flail, which I like):
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Another benefit of the flail is that it's great for ballast (mine's 1,200#). Off-season I need to shuttle firewood crates to my deck.