"can regular die's be used to put new threads on the other half of the pipe?" if you mean regular PIPE threading dies, then yeah - but NOT regular "nut and bolt" kinda dies, pipe threads are TAPERED - if you had a LOT of 'em to do, it'd be worth finding somebody with a power threader; but for just a few, it's not much different than threading a smooth rod so you can put a couple nuts on the end -
This
1/2 in. - 1 in. Ratcheting Pipe Threader Set
is what you'd need, if you don't already have one - those sizes would also let you build a "frackenator", except for the FAT pipe, for that you'd be better off just buying a 4' stick, an 8" nipple,and the other fittings of already-threaded 2" black iron...
"where's are all those square tube pyramids that we spent 6 months making you know the ones we wanted to paint candy apple red but wasn't in the budget"
I KNEW I wuz spoilin' ya with all the pichurs, ya fergot ta READ - from
post #510, second pic - "Next is AFTER both containers were sitting (sorta) on their respective "floatation" pads, but
BEFORE the "mil-spec Lego blocks" get set so they'll be LEVEL..."
If you "PLUS" the second pic,(far left, dead center, and next to the back end of the dump truck) you can see some of the NON-candy apple lego blocks sitting NEXT to the containers - THAT part comes NEXT, but not til AFTER I get 3 cords of maple stacked in the wood shed out of the RAIN that's comin' back Saturday...
When the non-candy apple thingies get done, I'll need to use both 20 ton jacks with the toe jacks in place
for EACH END, so I can jack the inside corners of BOTH containers at the same time - no other way to get those DOUBLE wides to go under BOTH containers at once... Then, once ALL the legos are in place I can do the final "tweak" on positioning, and lock the two containers together. I got a hunch THAT phase isn't gonna happen in the 45 minutes it took to get both containers within an inch of the marks on the pads
