Container Weld Shop build -

/ Container Weld Shop build - #501  
I might have to look into building one or more of those.. I want to dry my air at compressor (in pump house with copper airline running to shop) and then have a large (old water pressure tank that the bladder failed on) inside the shop. Plan is to have some air on hand even if I don't turn on compressor.
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#502  
Wherever you locate one of these, it will ONLY work as long as it's a handy enough location that you'll SEE it every time you use air - (remember, it's a WATER trap, and will fill up) - if it's obvious it'll help you remember to drain it OFTEN.

IF that's not practical, it'd make sense to add a solenoid dump valve on a timer; something like 15-20 seconds twice a day, depending on how often you use your compressor. Otherwise, it's just a good place to store water so you can "wash" your air tools every so often :confused: ...Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #503  
Wherever you locate one of these, it will ONLY work as long as it's a handy enough location that you'll SEE it every time you use air - (remember, it's a WATER trap, and will fill up) - if it's obvious it'll help you remember to drain it OFTEN.

IF that's not practical, it'd make sense to add a solenoid dump valve on a timer; something like 15-20 seconds twice a day, depending on how often you use your compressor. Otherwise, it's just a good place to store water so you can "wash" your air tools every so often :confused: ...Steve
I guess I should go drain my compressor. Maybe I should start a thread a la 'Your last generator maintenance run' to remind us all to regularly drain your compressor, refresh your desiccant, etc.? :laughing:
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #504  
Just don't use PVC... other air line plastic pipe is okay but why not black or galvanized pipe. I know I will be going that route as I extend my air lines beyond just using the rubber flex hoses currently snaking all over the floor. Just isn't compatible with all my tools mounted on casters! :smiley_aafz:

Now I'm back up and running with a new HP laptop, the screen is a lot clearer, sweet, just the buttons have move a little, muscle memory has to be reprogrammed, just like PC updates that could take a while.

Now for some catchup with a lot of mustard............ Last weeks air leak fix is fixed-ish, air is not leaking by the air filter and seems to be doing it's job, you can see water flowing into the bowl. Think about doing a quick strength test on this PVC rated for 600 psi, I'll take a sledge hammer to it and see if it breaks, safty glasses just in case there's flying sparks.

Guess it's time to start the planning process of new air line run, from where the compressor is to the last air outlet I'll need about 60', boy didn't that add up fast, then the elbows and T's probably that's where the cost will jump, thinking around 6 L's and 2-3 T's, then a few reduces to go from 1/2" to 3/8", then the misalliances, there's always some of that. But now the real costly part and that is in what kind of pipe. I did some looking around this evening for air line suggestions, the pro and cons, and this page told it short and simple even a caveman can understand it..................Black ion and galvanize is what I also thought would be good but this page didn't seem to like it, they seem to aluminum, wonder how pricey that is...............
What Type of Pipe Should I Use for My Air Compressor?
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #505  
The previous link on "franzinator" has some good info, but could possibly be a little clearer - I tried to re-do some of the pics and add some comments last night, but my internet was down all day til several hours after bedtime; it's back up now, so here goes...

One of the confusions was ORIENTATION in the pics - I've changed them so ALL are shown as they should be when the unit is FINISHED and MOUNTED - in other words, everything in the edited pics is "right side up" - some of the PINK lettering doesn't show up as well, click to expand the pic may help... Steve

View attachment 569920 View attachment 569921 View attachment 569922 View attachment 569923 View attachment 569924 View attachment 569925

Thanks for clarifying Frankenater like putting them in the position that it's suppose to be in, I think if I study it long enough even I can make it, but right now my cheap HF water filter seems to b working, not getting any water out of my air tools.
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #506  
I think black pipe will be the cheapest metal option. Aluminum would be a luxury in my mind. The plastic RapidAir is intriguing for the simplicity and easy install, but I like straight non sagging installs. Just the analness in me I guess. I would like something that is easier to reconfigure since my shop is on wheels for the most part and I don't have my tool station locations in stone (or concrete I should say).
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #507  
I did get around to securing my shop a little better this past weekend, got one combo lock on one door, do the next one next week. One thing important on these sliding bolt locks is get perfectly line up, there's no room for error. once line up it works good only had to do that twice, once done just move one dial to lock. It's screwed on with fillip screws, I use a couple longer square drive, I'm still trying to figure out if it can be unscrewed and taken apart without unlocking it first doesn't look like it can be, which is a nice feature just in case I have to re-tweak it if cold weather affects it.

I was hopping the numbers on the 4 dials would be easy to see without my glasses but it's not, barely make them out, thinking about high lighting the numbers and put a sign above the lock for the burglars to read>>>>Ignore the High lighted Numbers.
View attachment 570414 View attachment 570415 View attachment 570416
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#508  
"Think about doing a quick strength test on this PVC rated for 600 psi, I'll take a sledge hammer to it and see if it breaks, safty glasses just in case there's flying sparks."

You forgot "Hey, watch this; hold my beer..."

Seriously, I hope you're just tryin' to get me to rise to the bait; otherwise, what part of SHRAPNEL did you NOT read??!?

Anyway, I'm thinking the reason that jhfoster site likes the fancy aluminum might have something to do with how much MONEY they charge for all the fancy connections; I kinda doubt your need for keeping costs down will be compatible with their price list...

Here's some pricing on black iron from HomeDepot - the pipe
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-120-in-Black-Steel-10-ft-Sch-40-Pipe-314-12X120/100553686

And 1/2" fittings -
1/2" - Black Pipe & Fittings - Pipes & Fittings - The Home Depot

Keep in mind that any DROPS from the main line will pass on LESS WATER if the drops go up/over/down, instead of just DOWN - it ALSO means that, besides a tee each drop would ALSO need at least two Street Els, so fitting cost would go up AT LEAST another $5 per drop...

There's more, but this should get you in the ballpark on pricing... Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#509  
On another (less off-topic) note - my "container guy" finally found time for one of his better drivers to stop by and move the two hi-cube 40's where they'll stay - we were both too busy "beating the clock" for me to get pics of the roll-back truck in action, but here's what I DID get -

"Way before (where they were for the last few months)
DSCN3137.JPG DSCN3138.JPG DSCN3139.JPG

The goal was to get the containers moved into place while weather was still DRY; that's CLAY soil, and it doesn't tend to play nice with wetness and heavy equipment :rolleyes: ...Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#510  
Next is AFTER both containers were sitting (sorta) on their respective "floatation" pads, but BEFORE the "mil-spec Lego blocks" get set so they'll be LEVEL...

Where they WERE - DSCN3414.JPG

Where they WENT - DSCN3415.JPG

Sorta CLOSE -
DSCN3416.JPG DSCN3417.JPG DSCN3418.JPG DSCN3419.JPG DSCN3420.JPG DSCN3421.JPG DSCN3422.JPG DSCN3423.JPG

More to come - because of a slight slope and less-than-ideal jockeying room, that's as close as I dared ask, soooo... Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#511  
Next came "the Force" - DSCN3424.JPG

About 45 minutes later, using "the Force" and (occasionally) a chain -
CntnrsB4Lvl-1.jpg CntnrsB4Lvl-2.jpg CntnrsB4Lvl-3.jpgCntnrsB4Lvl-4.jpg CntnrsB4Lvl-5.jpg

About 5 minutes after the last pic was taken, it started to RAIN - That was Monday, and it's rained some every day SINCE - but my backhoe is NOT mired in mud, so I'll TAKE it :thumbsup:

Hoping weather holds the next couple days, I should be able to get all the Lego blocks set and final position "tweaking" done, (using the 2 20 ton air/hydraulic jacks with the toe jack adapters I made, plus a couple chains and ratchet binders) - maybe even another coat of paint to cover the inevitable scratches on the blocks.

I DID manage to shoot the lowest corner and surrounding area with the rotary laser, and it looks like drainage won't be a problem. I do NOT want standing water near those plates, or things might get a bit saggy... Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #512  
Hah. Those NH suitcase weights came in handy
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#513  
Yup, they're a bit much for my little 45 horse tractors, :laughing: but I couldn't pass 'em up for $20 each on CL (220 lb weights) - the local tractor "graveyard" charges a flat $1 a POUND for used weights, those same weights woulda cost me $660 for the three :eek: (I know, 'cause I got 4 SMALLER NH weights there for the "brattislavia blue beast", AKA Long 460) - Still gotta build a weight rack for the front of THAT one, it tends to pull wheelies if I put the Gannon box on it :rolleyes:

The OTHER half of that 4x8 3/4" plate (that's now in 3 pieces under the FRONTs of the containers) is reserved for ANOTHER project, so those $20 weights ended up saving me about $500 - one of my FEW "fiscally responsible" moves, even if it WAS an accident :D ... Steve
 
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/ Container Weld Shop build - #514  
You forgot "Hey, watch this; hold my beer..."

Seriously, I hope you're just tryin' to get me to rise to the bait; otherwise, what part of SHRAPNEL did you NOT read??!? Steve
Yes hold my Moxie and watch this>>>>>>>>>>I did the safety test because first and foremost is safety, I hit the PVC pipe has hard as could with the biggest hammer I had over a dozen times and coouldn't put a dent in it, I did break the hammer handle tho.:fishing:

I did some quick math on your HD links and it equaled to no blue buckets and with 6 pc of pipe that was about $108.00 so with the elbows and T's should be doable for about $200.00 to go 60'. Now to do this there will be some shorting of pipe which will leave one end with no threads, so can regular die's be used to put new threads on the other half of the pipe?

On your container move, where's are all those square tube pyramids that we spent 6 months making you know the ones we wanted to paint candy apple red but wasn't in the budget.....................

Now back to safety as being able to stay focused on the job at hand so we wont get hurt, maybe we need another selective attention test, now can you stay focused and count at the same time>>>>>>
selective attention test - YouTube
 
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/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#515  
"can regular die's be used to put new threads on the other half of the pipe?" if you mean regular PIPE threading dies, then yeah - but NOT regular "nut and bolt" kinda dies, pipe threads are TAPERED - if you had a LOT of 'em to do, it'd be worth finding somebody with a power threader; but for just a few, it's not much different than threading a smooth rod so you can put a couple nuts on the end -

This
1/2 in. - 1 in. Ratcheting Pipe Threader Set
is what you'd need, if you don't already have one - those sizes would also let you build a "frackenator", except for the FAT pipe, for that you'd be better off just buying a 4' stick, an 8" nipple,and the other fittings of already-threaded 2" black iron...

"where's are all those square tube pyramids that we spent 6 months making you know the ones we wanted to paint candy apple red but wasn't in the budget"

I KNEW I wuz spoilin' ya with all the pichurs, ya fergot ta READ - from post #510, second pic - "Next is AFTER both containers were sitting (sorta) on their respective "floatation" pads, but BEFORE the "mil-spec Lego blocks" get set so they'll be LEVEL..."

If you "PLUS" the second pic,(far left, dead center, and next to the back end of the dump truck) you can see some of the NON-candy apple lego blocks sitting NEXT to the containers - THAT part comes NEXT, but not til AFTER I get 3 cords of maple stacked in the wood shed out of the RAIN that's comin' back Saturday...

When the non-candy apple thingies get done, I'll need to use both 20 ton jacks with the toe jacks in place for EACH END, so I can jack the inside corners of BOTH containers at the same time - no other way to get those DOUBLE wides to go under BOTH containers at once... Then, once ALL the legos are in place I can do the final "tweak" on positioning, and lock the two containers together. I got a hunch THAT phase isn't gonna happen in the 45 minutes it took to get both containers within an inch of the marks on the pads :rolleyes:
 
/ Container Weld Shop build - #516  
Yes hold my Moxie and watch this>>>>>>>>>>I did the safety test because first and foremost is safety, I hit the PVC pipe has hard as could with the biggest hammer I had over a dozen times and coouldn't put a dent in it, I did break the hammer handle tho.:fishing:
I must be missing something. The point is that PVC will become brittle with age and exposure. Banging it new with your trusty proof test device should not make you believe that material selection is a good one.
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#517  
Yeah; plus, you didn't mention whether the pipe was PRESSURIZED at the time... Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#518  
Warmth is good...

Yet another "while-yer"; This (3+ cords seasoned maple) showed up yesterday, truck couldn't quite fit my FIRST choice of dump location, so it's many many loads in 2 garden carts back to the woodshed :confused:
WoodPile-3+cords.jpg

and rain's due back tomorrow afternoon, so...
WoodShed-halfcord.jpg

Mrs. Bukit and I got about a cord done today, that pic's about half of what we did today. (Not counting the 1-1/2 cords of fir on the OTHER side of the divider) Each side of that shed holds just over 3 cords when stacked til it hits the roof. Plenty of ventilation all around, one of the FEW projects that hasn't needed Version 2.0 or above :rolleyes:...

#1 grandson's coming out tomorrow to help, 6'2" footballer, couldn't ask for a better person. If I can survive keepin' up with him, the other 2 cords will probly take maybe an hour :eek:

Then maybe I can beat the rain and get those (NON-candy apple red) Lego blocks where they belong :laughing:... Steve
 
/ Container Weld Shop build -
  • Thread Starter
#519  
#1 grandson showed up right on time (10am), things looked like this by noon -
WoodPileGone.jpg WoodInShed.jpg

Started gathering rigging stuff about 2pm; both containers needed to be lifted onto their center blocks at the same time, just barely enough room for 2 20 ton jacks at the outer edge of the plate and still able to get the double wide center block in place -
ContLvl-1.jpg ContLvl-2.jpg ContLvl-3.jpg

The 2 jacks get used in conjunction with 2 toe jack adapters I built for setting the previous 2 containers - not perfect, but usable. Also note the diagonal chain - this helps one container be the "boss", and the other one move - the high end of the chain pulls DOWN on its container, which gives that one a bit more "traction" so (if footings are about the same friction) the LOW end of the chain is the one that moves when they're jacked up...

Back ends, similar principle - Notice the right rear pylon needs some "attitude adjustment"...
ContLvl-4.jpg

Shoulda left that chain across the FRONTS - note the gap between front ends :rolleyes:
ContLvl-5.jpg

Rears done, had to jack the right rear corner and "nudge" that pylon inward a bit with the loader -
ContLvl-6.jpg

Then back to the front for another gentle nudge with the loader, gap is gone - left the rear diagonal chain ON this time; Done, about 5:30 pm
ContLvl-7.jpg

Think I might kick back manana, see if my guitar (meaning ME) still works :D Then Monday, time to order more rock...Steve
 
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/ Container Weld Shop build - #520  
I’m envious.

It’s highly unlikely I’ll be around long enough to enjoy the help of a #1 grandson like the one you got spec’d out.
 

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