Container Weld Shop build -

[BukitCase]

For the time being, the container shop is doubling as a paint booth - right now it's got 12 sheets of 1/2" CDX ply stood on end and leaned up against the walls (6 on a side) gettin' cleaned up enough so the primer will stick good - once that's primed all over it'll replace the lower 4 feet of crap sheathing on the two sides of the house I'm doing for now -

Then once that's done, all the siding (about 26 sheets) will go in there and get the same treatment (in two batches) - once THAT's up it'll get ANOTHER coat of primer before the color coat.

The rock that got spread is 1-1/2" minus crushed rock (granite, that's why it's dark) for a base, the pile that's left is 3/4" minus crushed rock, that will go on top of the bigger stuff and fill in the gaps so it stays packed - without the big stuff, the clay soil will just swallow most of the gravel; and without the SMALLER stuff, the big stuff won't stay put very well.

Without EITHER of 'em, my backhoe would stay put til SUMMER and that (with forks on) is the transportation from the (temporary) paint booth up to the house. Doing it that way, I can get things pre-painted even if it's raining; then I only need ONE DRY DAY to move stuff, and I can work in the tent and stay dry - dunno if I mentioned it, but our weather is pretty much totally DRY during summer, then rains almost non-stop for about 8 months :thumbdown:

So see, it all (kinda) makes sense (in MY world, anyway) ... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Got the East end of the house tented yesterday, started raining just as I was putting the last couple C clamps in place - From what a 7 mph breeze did, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need some straps across the 2x4's partway between ground and eave when the REAL wind comes along

Mrs. Bukit has a couple plants in that end's bedroom window that need light, so I spanned 3 of the 2x4's with 6 mil clear plastic - wish me luck

I still have the middle of the long side to tent, 6 mil clear goes there too. At least that side has no compound angles, the gable end was a little trickier... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

Wow that clear plastic in that first picture is so clear I cant tell it's on there and yes medical marijuana plants need lots of light to get the best medical treatment for your aching back, there is one side affect though, extra income to help pay for house repairs. You seem to have some good size trees close to your house, they anchored good and deep to resist wind?

 

[BukitCase]

No "mary jane" here, never been into EXTERNAL "feel good" stuff, other than tools/projects, they're the best "feel good" I've found - plus, the "morning after" feels a BUNCH less painful :thumbsup:

Trees - when we bought this place in '79 there were exactly TWO trees on the whole 10 acres - a Christmas tree size pine (now dying and in need of serious pruning before it helps me need MORE house repairs and a huge black walnut that was under the power lines and is now a stump - everything ELSE we planted (about 80 trees, numerous shrubs, flowers, ground cover, etc...

Those fir trees are anywhere from 20 to 32 inches at the base, and ALL have so far survived the near hurricane level winds on this hill with just an occasional limb lost - probably 'cause they're more or less in a line parallel to prevailing winds, I think they provide wind breaks for each other...

Depending on how the future goes, if it includes the 2 story addition we would like, there'll be about 8 of 'em (in a different area) taking up space in a new woodshed. Likelihood of that at the moment is maybe 20%, so not gettin' too excited just yet...

Thinkin' I got that rock put down about the right time, rain just went from drizzle to big drops closer together. Forecast is for about 2-1/2" in the next 3 days

So now before I can use the container for a paint booth I need to make it so I can keep the doors open but STILL DRY inside, so next is a steel frame that'll let me tarp the open ends of the two new containers without interfering with the doors (or driving up to 'em)..

Got a plan, involves more "tinker toy" parts and 5 20 foot lengths of 2" square tube (this "bandaid" will need to be there for a few years, otherwise I'd wing it simpler.)

Gotta go for now, later... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

("Trees - when we bought this place in '79 there were exactly TWO trees on the whole 10 acres") Happy veterans day, your a little behind on the picture schedule, thought I send you a cattle prod. Hows the house repair coming, must be getting a little nippy by now? I cant imagine ten acres with just two trees, sounds like you bought a field, a field that big is very rare around here, I have trees and more trees everywhere I look.

Two story house addition? what you crazy, and you say no marry Jane's, thats for people under 50 with kids and wives who like sore stuff and more stuff and more stuff, over 50 and it's double the house repair danger let alone a fire trap, ideal house size is single story, 30'-ish by 40'-ish with walk in basement. Right now I'd like to shut my upper story off and build side ways

 

[Big Barn]

Growing up we always had a walk in basement. It was part workshop and second kitchen where my mom made meals for the farm workers.

Ah memories.....(sorry, back to you Steve)

 

[BukitCase]

I know it's been awhile; the GOOD news - got the rest of the tenting done, pulled up under the eaves and everything's staying dry, looks like it'll withstand a pretty good breeze. Weather's cooling off a bit, couple mornings right at freezing...

That's pretty much it for the GOOD news

Remember this from a couple pages back? "my insurance just told me I need to do some "MAJOR" repairs to the place by Dec 8, or they won't renew my policy in January - real nice of 'em to WASTE three MONTHS of nice weather before telling me"

I foolishly thought I MIGHT make their unreasonable deadline, til I finished tenting the two sides and started removing old siding again...

Then I took off the narrow band of siding under the 6' sliding glass door on the south side - and was able to remove ALL the "wood" under the door and more than a foot either side, with a small pry bar - this includes sill plate, a layer of 3/4 ply and a layer of 1-1/4 ply, and (not sure yet) probably a few studs...

I had mentioned to a co-worker about 10 years ago (and about 25 years AFTER we bought this place) that the guy who "built" it was named Dunnigan - his response was "Oh yeah, everybody around here knows "Do-It-Again Dunnigan"

Prior to this discovery I thought I MIGHT meet the deadline - Now it's "not even AFTER pigs fly"

TWO or more slaps in the face can sometimes get even THIS stubborn SOB to re-think things -
1 - Wife and I both have 401k's we only take the goobermint mandated minimums from (normally)
2 - Mine was smaller than hers (late starter on mine)
3 - Mine's been earning between 1-2%, house loan's at 5.25%
4 - Closing my 401k leaves me about $3k after goobermint (fed AND state) take their 30% (total) withholding and house is paid off. (6 yrs earlier than it woulda been)
5 - No house loan, insurance no longer mandatory (short term) so insurance co. can take a flyin' poke at a rollin' donut
6 - Finish repairs MY way, MY schedule (but still NEARLY as urgent) and already got a better insurance replacement picked out when they're done...
7 - Repairs around that sliding door are gonna need roof shored up for about 10-12 feet, within a couple feet of the wall - I priced tall shoring jacks, found out they'd run over $1200 incl. shipping - so will order tubing and make my own for under $200, stronger than the ready-built ones. (Similar to the legs I built for the container roof)
8 - Can't see leaving the whole house open in winter, so I blew out all the loose dry rotted stuff under the slider and filled with Great Stuff (the "wider than 1" crack" version) - then in spring I'll shore up the roof and completely re-frame/re-floor around the opening - the slider is long past replacement, so it'll get replaced with a double pane one -
9 - and yes, this time it'll get PROPERLY flashed, as opposed to NONE

10 - meantime, winter projects should more closely resemble at least SOME of the intent of this thread (maybe) :mur:

Sorry, still no new pics; maybe in a couple days. (Oh, and yeah the 2-story plan is pretty much HISTORY) (man still planning, God still laughing) ...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

Shoring jack on sale>>>https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-FJB-150-Basement-Floor-Jack/dp/B079T64VBQ Sounds like you a have case of the more you look the worse it looks. How'd the insurance co know that your house needed work, they have an ex-ray machine? Most people are way uninsured anyways, I have just enough to rebuild a box with roof.

401k, I use to think that was a risky venture years ago so never join, guess I'd been better off to of dumped SS 40 years ago and out that money in 401k instead, SS and GD pension is all I have 4 years from now, course I never was good at planning for the future.

Not sure what the slider is, picture required. God is probably laughing at a lot of us most likely shaking his head at me.

 

[Oldpath05]

Growing up we always had a walk in basement. It was part workshop and second kitchen where my mom made meals for the farm workers.

Ah memories.....(sorry, back to you Steve)

I remember 55 years ago my father use our walk in basement as a winter time workshop, that's where the wood stove was. It had a dirt floor and rock walls that might of been 6', probably built in the early 1900s. The house burnt down back in 87, nothing but childhood memories now. Growing up father referred to it as a cellar, most of the time I do to, wonder what the difference is between cellar and basement...............I know, 2 letters.

 

[BukitCase]

Hey thanks for the link; not quite what I was lookin' for, but it led to this

https://www.amazon.com/Akron-Produc..._rd_t=40701&refRID=2BYTEDW89C9332KNE248&th=1#

Interesting thing - try YOUR link AND the one above, change the little box from "1-pack" to other, and watch what the PRICE does - the 4x4 jacks go from $44.79 each (1-pack) to (2-pack) for $191.16 That's what FOUR of 'em costs if you buy the 1-pack, so that's what I did (4 of the "1-packs") gotta watch Amazon, this isn't the first time that came up...

Insurance: got a letter from 'em back in April, said they "might do a property inspection" - then NUTHIN' til late July, when some girl showed up with her cell phone and a "selfie stick", walked around, took some pics, and left...

Then more of NUTHIN', til mid-SEPTEMBER, when they dropped the bomb - "finish by 12/8 or we cancel" - a-holes, people tend NOT to mess with me TWICE - so now, just before their "due date" THEY'RE gettin canceled (along with my house payment), and my monthly outgo will DROP by $900 (woulda been $1200, but I still gotta save for property taxes...)

"Slider" - just a short term for "sliding glass door", AKA a "patio door" - dry rot or not, the door itself has seen better days - the aluminum extrusion the door tracks on is so worn down the door won't stay on the track, you gotta lift it up by the handle, pull it back in a bit and LOCK it or it won't stay put - I finally just stuck a metal screw in behind it a while back

'Nuther thing the insurance's BS irritated me on - I have a complete set of new windows for the house (including that sliding door) sitting in my shop, surrounded with 'way too much "inventory" to get at without a few helpers and several days, that I'd intended on changing out along with the siding job (when I got around to it, not when it was "mandated")

Guess NOW I'll have the time; then ALL the windows will get rough openings redone RIGHT (including flashing) on MY schedule (take that, corporate thieves :thumbsup: )

OK, I feel MUCH better now - Later... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

("Interesting thing - try YOUR link AND the one above, change the little box from "1-pack" to other, and watch what the PRICE does - the 4x4 jacks go from $44.79 each (1-pack) to (2-pack) for $191.16 That's what FOUR of 'em costs if you buy the 1-pack, so that's what I did (4 of the "1-packs") gotta watch Amazon, this isn't the first time that came up...")

How about another interesting thing, I only read your first sentence then clicked the link you sent, I was 20 minutes trying to figure out those prices, went down threw the comments back on the prices, double check my math, what the heck I better go back to your post and see if you know what I'm missing. Then I read the rest of your post, well theres the answer just a few lines down, talk about a numbers game, I dont like those games, but I guess you figured out their game.

Rabbit trail............you ever hooked up a dishwasher?

 

[BukitCase]

"Rabbit trail............you ever hooked up a dishwasher?"

Yup... :laughing:

(See, I really CAN do "short and to the point")

 

[Oldpath05]

Sharpest point I seen so far and quick to, you must be on break...........
I want to get the wife a dishwasher but not sure if it can fit. I have standard cupboards put in 30 years ago but since then I had 3/4" hardwood floor put down, then 3 years ago instead of refinishing the floor we put down 1/2" snap in fake hardwood flooring, adds up to 1-1/4" of added on flooring, just right for us short people.

Now I'm left with a little over 33" to bottom of counter top to floor, Now the .25 question, if I get that cupboard section out will this GE dishwasher (Model # GDT695SGJBB) at HD fit back down in that pocket that is left, have you ever done something like that after flooring is installed? I went to the specs. and it says 33-3/8" min but my flooring adds on a 1-1/4", in my mind it should be able to slide back down in that pocket to the original floor, also I granite counter top so that cant be cut, appreciate some advice when you have a chance no big hurry thanks.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Top-...nd-Steam-Prewash-45-dBA-GDT695SGJBB/207047102

 

[BukitCase]

OK, joke's over, you had the ONLY "short and sweet" you'll probly get this year :laughing:

Questions -
1 - do BOTH of your added floorings STOP right behind that toe kick board on the cabinets, or just the 1/2" one, or?
2 - How does your granite countertop fasten to the cabinets, and can that be undone in case the countertop needs to raise maybe 1/2" at most (only during the install)?

Clarification - most of the dishwashers I've installed (only 4 or 5) had little wheels at the back to roll into the space on, then the front typically has a piece of sheet metal with slotted screw holes across, so the metal can be adjusted flush with the floor - they usually have to push STRAIGHT IN, so yours might fit "back down in that pocket" ONCE IT'S IN PLACE, but might need a little "nudge" to get past the slightly short front opening -

IF that's the case, you might be able to loosen whatever holds the granite to the cabinets, then pad the lower front edge of the counter top ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DISHWASHER HOLE, (with some fairly long 2x4's) and GENTLY jack up the counter (in small bites, back and forth from one side to the other) til it's JUST HIGH ENOUGH to get the DW to slide in...

Then, as soon as the DW is in place the counter top can get lowered back down (Any time I have to deal with anything brittle like that, I always go REALLY SLOW and BABY STEPS, listening CAREFULLY for ANY sounds that shouldn't BE there, and STOP if I hear one.)

Reason for the 2 questions is due to non-standard floor, obviously - one other thing that MIGHT happen - if your added floor material extends a bit too far back into the opening, you might need to "trim" the extra flooring a bit so the DW can sit LEVEL - the two best ways I know to do that (neatly) are either one of the "oscillating multi-tool" type, or a "roto-zip" - the oscillating tool is easier to control, but if you want a clean straight line when cutting out just one layer of flooring, the rotozip works MUCH better with a guide for its base to ride against. It's basically a small diameter router, and has the same tendencies to "climb" if you don't use a guide...

There, THAT should re-establish my "blather rep" :laughing:

Oh, and don't "skim" this, there might actually be sumthin' IMPOTENT in there somewhere... ...Steve

 

[GLyford]

My granite went in bedded with silicone, so if his is like mine, I'd be very wary of cracking the counter.

I will also note that some dishwashers come with two part threaded plastic feet that screw in and out to adjust height, with a separate metal front plate that gets added on later. If you need another half inch or inch, look and see if you can completely unscrew the feet. Then wedge/shim the front after instead of using the feet. On mine, the next lower pieces at the front are the water and electric connections, but I don't remember how far down the motor/pump sticks down in the middle. Worth looking at a unit in the store before buying to figure all that out. If you have a good appliance store, as opposed to a box store, they may have seen it all before and know a few other tricks too.

This is also making the rather large assumption that you don't need a lot of adjustment to get level again...

 

[Oldpath05]

1, Yes both added 3/4 and 1/2" stop at the cabinets, and the granite is like GLyford, silicone holding it in place. The only way to move it so it wont break is take it all apart by cutting the silicone, then if I do all that, most likely some parts of the cabinet are going to break, couple of the cabinet are already needing attention, it might end up like this, I'll get so frustrated on trying to patch stuff back together >>>>>>> Oh honey do you feel like taking my CC and go back to HD or somewhere and order some new $4000.00+ kitchen cabinets, she probably wont even bother to put her coat on.



As it is now I'd be lucky if I can get that one 2' cabinet out in 6 hr without chopping it all up. The only way I know how to get it out is cut the floor of the cabinet out then cut about 1-1/2" off the bottom with my oscillating saw, most of that is that particle board stuff, only the facing is solid wood. Then unscrew the front sides and it should slide out over the flooring, then the the $600.00 question that could end up in a $5000.00 dollar answer, if I only had a Delorean.

 

[Oldpath05]

My granite went in bedded with silicone, so if his is like mine, I'd be very wary of cracking the counter.

I will also note that some dishwashers come with two part threaded plastic feet that screw in and out to adjust height, with a separate metal front plate that gets added on later. If you need another half inch or inch, look and see if you can completely unscrew the feet. Then wedge/shim the front after instead of using the feet. On mine, the next lower pieces at the front are the water and electric connections, but I don't remember how far down the motor/pump sticks down in the middle. Worth looking at a unit in the store before buying to figure all that out. If you have a good appliance store, as opposed to a box store, they may have seen it all before and know a few other tricks too.

This is also making the rather large assumption that you don't need a lot of adjustment to get level again...

I went to Lowes yesterday just so I could look at the dishwasher's height and underneath at the adjustable feet and see whats what, but theirs are under mock up counters so I couldn't get a good look at whats underneath. So after that I stopped at local appliance store to see if I could get more intel but they wanted to celebrate veterans day yesterday to, maybe I'll have to try again, until then I'll try to get some intel on here, it's working already, I'm already getting nervous.

What I read and watched on youtube sofar is it's suppose to be level, well if there adjustable feet in back and on front, once in place how does one adjust the feet or if I took them out, get them back in, so's to get the washer level-ish?

Wonder if my wife would be just as happy with a frying pan for Christmas.......................

 

[BukitCase]

Not much to report on the house re-do, OR the container shop (remember THAT??!? ) Guess I shouldn't give myself TOO much time to de-stress after the decision to pay off the house and fire my insurance; might get USED to it, and got too much to do for THAT to happen...

Yesterday, the four 4x4 Shore adapters showed up - should work fine, then I'll need to fab similar ones for the TOPS of the 4x4's for temp roof support when I get around to the dry rot repair (likely late spring, NOT interested in a 8' hole thru the weather side of the house BEFORE then ) -

I looked for top supports that'd hold a pair of 2x12's vertically, didn't see any; still have some 3/16" wall 4x4 tube, cap a couple 12" pieces of that with 1/4x6 FB, then 2 10" pieces of the 1/4"x6 welded vertically so they're 3" apart and parallel, drill a few holes, slip 'em on top of the posts. That'll be just another winter project so they'll all be ready when I am

One (possibly) up side of me keeping so MANY projects rattling around in the noggin is that when I see a "bargain" I often already KNOW if it IS one ("a bargain is ONLY a bargain if you actually NEED it"

Case in point - I knew I wuz gonna need to trench for power/air to all 5 of the containers eventually, plus a 15' tall light/camera pole near the "good" neighbor's fence with power, cat5, possibly 12 volts (about a 50' run back to the shop, gives me a view of all but ONE of the container doors and shop that's NOT visible from the house), plus Mrs. Bukit would like 2-3 more water faucets various places in the yard - the odds of me wanting to do ALL those at the same time (time + $$ for rentals) are pretty close to NFW...

So when THIS showed up on CL


It wuz pretty much a done deal - said machine now resides in one of the containers, so will be available at MY discretion - plus, if/when I get tired of buryin' stuff, I should be able to get about what I paid fer it...

Doubt I'll have much to report in the next couple weeks, need to take care of house pay-off, new (NOT SAME) car insurance, get a few things ready for winter, etc... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Not much to report on the house re-do, OR the container shop (remember THAT??!? ) Guess I shouldn't give myself TOO much time to de-stress after the decision to pay off the house and fire my insurance; might get USED to it, and got too much to do for THAT to happen...

Yesterday, the four 4x4 Shore adapters showed up - should work fine, then I'll need to fab similar ones for the TOPS of the 4x4's for temp roof support when I get around to the dry rot repair (likely late spring, NOT interested in a 8' hole thru the weather side of the house BEFORE then ) -

I looked for top supports that'd hold a pair of 2x12's vertically, didn't see any; still have some 3/16" wall 4x4 tube, cap a couple 12" pieces of that with 1/4x6 FB, then 2 10" pieces of the 1/4"x6 welded vertically so they're 3" apart and parallel, drill a few holes, slip 'em on top of the posts. That'll be just another winter project so they'll all be ready when I am

One (possibly) up side of me keeping so MANY projects rattling around in the noggin is that when I see a "bargain" I often already KNOW if it IS one ("a bargain is ONLY a bargain if you actually NEED it"

Case in point - I knew I wuz gonna need to trench for power/air to all 5 of the containers eventually, plus a 15' tall light/camera pole near the "good" neighbor's fence with power, cat5, possibly 12 volts (about a 50' run back to the shop, gives me a view of all but ONE of the container doors and shop that's NOT visible from the house), plus Mrs. Bukit would like 2-3 more water faucets various places in the yard - the odds of me wanting to do ALL those at the same time (time + $$ for rentals) are pretty close to NFW...

So when THIS showed up on CL
View attachment 579537 View attachment 579538 View attachment 579539 View attachment 579540

It wuz pretty much a done deal - said machine now resides in one of the containers, so will be available at MY discretion - plus, if/when I get tired of buryin' stuff, I should be able to get about what I paid fer it...

Doubt I'll have much to report in the next couple weeks, need to take care of house pay-off, new (NOT SAME) car insurance, get a few things ready for winter, etc... Steve

Great status report! But all the way to Lebanon to get that trencher? Holy moly! :laughing:

 

[BukitCase]

Yup, at least 12-1/2 miles each way; grueling, I tell ya

Not as easy to run as a rider, but several places I need to trench are a bit too close-coupled for a bigger machine - and NEITHER is as much of a PITA as a "pick-n-shove-it" ...Steve