Container Weld Shop build -

[Big Barn]

Your offer includes lunch, right?

 

[BukitCase]

Sure, Terry; fer you, I'd even fire up the Trager

But the 700 mile round trip might eat into the cost savings

But, but, the pleasure of my scintillating company would MORE than compensate :laughing::laughing: ...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

They make something similar for O/A torches too -
Multi-Purpose Chariot Cutting Guide | Flange Wizard
They're a little bit "proud" of their stuff, but it works really well...

The circle cutter came in handy when beefing up my ZTR's mower deck - I put a piece of 1/4" flat bar across the discharge (laid FLAT, NOT as a mulcher) when the stock one folded up; centered the circle cutter on the blade spindle next to the discharge, set the radius 1/4" longer than the blade's radius; zero interference, it's been on there for about 4 years now, MUCH more durable... Steve

Meanwhile back to reading this turbo charged container weld shop book that might turn into full blown novel then............

Maybe instead of buying a $200.00 metal cutting saw, a good way to hold my torch is the way to go. Trying to find good video on the link you sent is not that easy, you'd think this Chariot Cutting Guide outfit would at least make a good cutting video to show how smooth the cut is, but did find a another video on what looks like some impressive redneck engineering and the end result was a real nice straight cut with hardly anything to grind.

Chariot Cutting Guide (Flange Wizard Inc.) - YouTube

Cutting a perfectly straight edge with an OA torch - YouTube

Rabbit trail..............My garage walk in entrance door made with 2x4s is 5" thick, been last couple nights looking for deadbolt locks, the thickest door I see there made for is 4". I have two doors side by side and both can be opened to a 6' wide opening but I only use half for walk in entrance. So what lock options are there for a 5"x3'x9' door? I'd like something heavy duty-ish with a lock built in on the latch.

 

[BukitCase]

Locks - you did better'n me; only found one schlage "kit" to extend one of their keypad type locks to 4"...

I built a similar door for my recording studio years ago, 2x4 frame, 5/8 rough-sawn siding on outside and 3/4" MDF on the inside (mostly for sound deadening) - the 48" wide door was pretty heavy, so I used 4 LARGE barn door hinges. Door was hinged on one of the 6x6's (studio is the rest of my wood shop, which was converted from a pole barn) - on the hinge side I ran 5/8"x6" lag bolts into the hinge post every foot til 1-1/2" stuck out, then cut the heads off, used a plunge router and cut pockets into the door frame for each headless bolt - so when the door is shut, it's like a bank vault - go ahead and take the hinges off if you can - ain't gonna help, and by then me and my "12-barrel double gauge" will probly be there to "help" ya ...

On the latch side I used a regular lock set and a 1" deadbolt - in the wall frame I put blocking at the lock level, for 3 studs each side of the door to resist spreading enough to defeat the deadbolt.

To get around the extra thickness, I used a big forstner bit and countersunk both the deadbolt and the regular lockset - don't remember what the effective thickness ended up, but I really like having them recessed, seems like it'd slow somebody down a bit...

I'm all locked up for the night, but I'll see if I can shoot a couple pics manana - dunno how much it'll help, looks like almost everything now is dang key pads.

Personally, if there's ANOTHER entry to your garage I'd be tempted to use a masonry drill and put a big-azz floor lockbolt in half of your door, then fab some heavy brackets for one of those barn door type BARS that drop into 'em - then lock BOTH of the doors from the INSIDE and use that other door... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

As promised, only ONE day late - explanations in previous post - gotta go stack a cord of firewood, might rain in a couple hours... Steve

BTW, that 48" door still fits perfectly, no sag at all after about 24 years :thumbsup:

 

[Oldpath05]

Nice lock job, I guess most people dont make doors out of 2x4s. I spent the last few nights searching and thinking what to do about locking my garage door, do I want a key, do I not want a key............I finally pick this one and bought three>>>> Lockey Slide Bolt Combination Lock Keyless Padlock Hasp Barrel Bolt MS-4 SL-4 | eBay the only problem I see is cant unlock from inside, if on a shed no biggie but I have two entrance doors on my garage, not sure if it will be an issue or not. This all came to a head last week when my wife told me that there has been some garage break-ins around our area, for a temp solution I drilled and pinned the entrance doors so the only way in is the OH door or break in.........

My cutting straight job on steel is still hard and hot on my hands and pants, I needed to cut around 2' long but could only get about 12'' before I had to stop and regroup. Making wood stove brick holders to hold 1-1/4" thick, the angle bar was 3/8"x2"x3" if you do the math you'll come to the conclusion of a mathematical error which cost me time and money, least I found out how to make fire brick holders the wrong way.............


The rest of the boring story is on my (wood stove rebuild thread)

 

[BukitCase]

Those locks should be OK, as long as you can pin ONE of the double doors to the floor and the OTHER door to THAT one - Since I retired, I tend to be home MOST of the time - when I'm home, I get support from Mossberg, Browning and associates :thumbsup: and when I'm not, I have "replacement value" coverage from Allstate, with on site "enforcement" -

The other Dobie is the more usual black and rust coloring; they're ALL great with grandkids and friends; OTHER adults tend to only see teeth and tonsils, very few are stupid enough NOT to stay on the OUTSIDE of the fences

As to your cutting problems, I got NUTTIN' beyond what I posted here in post #'s 472 and 473 - other than that, here's a PDF I edited to add "seconds per inch" cut speeds for several tip sizes; those, along with something like that 4 foot ruler I linked in post#472, and enough $$ for the flange wizard thingie (and learning how to count seconds fairly accurately) - HTH... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Nice lock job, I guess most people dont make doors out of 2x4s. I spent the last few nights searching and thinking what to do about locking my garage door, do I want a key, do I not want a key............I finally pick this one and bought three>>>> Lockey Slide Bolt Combination Lock Keyless Padlock Hasp Barrel Bolt MS-4 SL-4 | eBay the only problem I see is cant unlock from inside, if on a shed no biggie but I have two entrance doors on my garage, not sure if it will be an issue or not. This all came to a head last week when my wife told me that there has been some garage break-ins around our area, for a temp solution I drilled and pinned the entrance doors so the only way in is the OH door or break in.........

I assume you don't have a garage door opener (other than you). If you do have an automatic opener, I think your lock idea is problematic. If you don't, the auto door opener, at least for me, makes the best lock and you get the convenience too!

 

[Oldpath05]

Those locks should be OK, as long as you can pin ONE of the double doors to the floor and the OTHER door to THAT one - Since I retired, I tend to be home MOST of the time - when I'm home, I get support from Mossberg, Browning and associates :thumbsup: and when I'm not, I have "replacement value" coverage from Allstate, with on site "enforcement" - View attachment 569046

The other Dobie is the more usual black and rust coloring; they're ALL great with grandkids and friends; OTHER adults tend to only see teeth and tonsils, very few are stupid enough NOT to stay on the OUTSIDE of the fences : Steve

I like your night patrol team, they would sure scare me. You have to keep them on a chain or are they well trained to stay away from the road or mischief? Now the real question of the day is, is it ok or politically correct to do labor on labor day.....................

 

[Oldpath05]

I assume you don't have a garage door opener (other than you). If you do have an automatic opener, I think your lock idea is problematic. If you don't, the auto door opener, at least for me, makes the best lock and you get the convenience too!

Yes I have a 12x12 garage door with opener but dont want to up that everytime I want to get in and out of the garage for just a screwdriver, but when my entrance doors are pinned from inside I have to till those long lasting trouble free non key secure door locks show up, thought I would've got them by now.

 

[BukitCase]

"I like your night patrol team, they would sure scare me. You have to keep them on a chain or are they well trained to stay away from the road or mischief?"

No chains - the entire 10 acres is field fenced, top third (where all buildings and/or "goodies" are is controlled by the dogs. They all know what's theirs and what's NOT...

The OTHER female Dobie was elsewhere when that previous pic was shot, the black/rust dog in that one is Dominic, a 140 lb. male Rottweiler who doesn't even like it when PLANES fly over - grandkids, family (and friends, when I'm home) are fine; I once moved a trailer to a "new" place, it took him just under a MONTH to decide that was "OK" :thumbsup:

Here's the OTHER female Dobie, inside the gated area between house and the circle driveway - (the TEMPORARY lookin' stuff is just that, til I get far enough ahead to build a 3-bay 32x40 garage there - one bay with 12' tall door)



note the "modified" tube gates? She "knows" that the circle driveway is still "hers", and before I added the heavy "horse wire" between tubes I watched her (more than ONCE) jump toward those gates, rotate her entire body SIDEWAYS in mid-air, slip thru BETWEEN the tubes, and LAND ON HER FEET so she could "greet" the UPS guy - I was there at the time, and she ALSO knows I'm always happy when the brown truck stops, so she REALLY WAS just gonna GREET him - still, if you're NOT a "Dobie person", and maybe HAVE seen the movie "Cujo"

Not much going on with the containers yet, my container guy's 'sposed to get down here this week to move the two hi-cubes, then I can tweak 'em into place and get the "graduated Mega-Lego blocks" under 'em so they'll be level - meantime, "life is the crap that happens to ya while yer busy makin' plans" seems to be the order of the day(s) - got a cord of dry fir in the shed, 3 more of Oak/Maple should be here in about a week, then my house insurance informed me they wouldn't renew til I fixed a couple "major" problems (one is moss on the shop roof The other is yet to be explained, but with a Dec.8 DEADLINE - typical bureaucratic BS, but not much choice since it'll be a couple more years til it's paid off...

Oh, and with me pretty much EVERY day is "labor" day; guess it beats boredom, altho it's been so long I'm not sure I'd RECOGNIZE it - later... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

Well I did a little laboring today, first rehooked up the stove pipe to my rebuilt wood stove, sure dont need it today at 90*.

Then hook up an HF air filter about 20' ft away from compressor, from what I here hear that's the minimal distance>>>>> 3/8 In. Air Filter with Regulator

Then I went back in the house wait for the PVC glue to dry and debate whither or not I should of bought a 1/2" air filter, another one of those things that I just dont know. Anyways hope it works cause for the past few years I just get way to much water out of my compressor when using air tools. I drain the compressor about every other month but not much water comes out, more water comes out of my air tools then the tank, is it too much to ask for water free air.............If it dont work I'll throw a fit or throw a hammer so if you see an extra hammer in your door yard it's mine.

 

[BukitCase]

Compressing makes air HOT - (otherwise diesel engines wouldn't work :laughing
Hot air holds a LOT more moisture than cold air, so -
All that moisture laden air gets past your tank and into the lines,'specially during heavy use -
The further the wet air gets from the compressor, the cooler it gets -
Cool air has a "lower dewpoint", so now the air can't hold as much water, so -
The cooler water drops out into the hose on the way to your tools, so -
Continuing to use the tools causes that fast-moving air to CARRY (NOT absorb) the water in the hoses along with the air...

A filter HELPS some, but the only SURE way is to COOL the air BEFORE you use it - things like inter-coolers and AFTER-coolers actually WORK, but ain't cheap or easy fixes -

Til I get a few dozen more alligators clubbed, I'm in the same boat - right now my DevAire 5 horse 80 gal. has a built-in intercooler, an electric tank drain set to run 20 seconds every 20 minutes,

Electronic Automatic Tank Drain for Air Compressors - Air Compressor Accessories - Amazon.com

and one of these on the main output
Astro 2618 Air Control Unit, 12cfm Capacity - Air Compressor Accessories - Amazon.com

There's another one of those, along with one of these

Motor Guard M-1-KIT 1/2 NPT Clean Air Filter Kit - Air Compressor Accessories - Amazon.com

On my plasma cart -


Along with an onboard regulator to drop the compressor's 170# output down to 100 so the plasma doesn't get too excited

And MOST of that stuff probably wouldn't be NECESSARY, if I finally got that "round tuit" goin' and did a proper after-cooler setup - but at least, I don't hafta worry about remembering to empty the compressor tank, and the autodrain only adds about an hour per day of run time (which in my normal day is small taters :=) ... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

Ok before I throw my hammer, is there better teflon tape or something, what would you do?(On my budget) I first had my son wrap the tape 5 times around that brass fitting that goes into that plastic coupling, guess that's what it's called. Both connections failed when the air pressure was brought up, they started leaking so took them apart and tried 7 wraps and one still leaked, so then I took that apart and used some Permatex sealant for hydraulic fittings, then I read for how long it takes for that to set, 4 hr. Then I read excellent for sealing bla bla bla...... but not recommended for plastic, GOOD GRIEF, so I left it for the night and almost ready to throw a hammer, this ain't rocket science,,,,,,, or is it..........................

 

[Oldpath05]

Compressing makes air HOT - (otherwise diesel engines wouldn't work :laughing
Hot air holds a LOT more moisture than cold air, so -
All that moisture laden air gets past your tank and into the lines,'specially during heavy use -
The further the wet air gets from the compressor, the cooler it gets -
Cool air has a "lower dewpoint", so now the air can't hold as much water, so -
The cooler water drops out into the hose on the way to your tools, so -
Continuing to use the tools causes that fast-moving air to CARRY (NOT absorb) the water in the hoses along with the air...

A filter HELPS some, but the only SURE way is to COOL the air BEFORE you use it - things like inter-coolers and AFTER-coolers actually WORK, but ain't cheap or easy fixes -

Til I get a few dozen more alligators clubbed, I'm in the same boat - right now my DevAire 5 horse 80 gal. has a built-in intercooler, an electric tank drain set to run 20 seconds every 20 minutes,

Electronic Automatic Tank Drain for Air Compressors - Air Compressor Accessories - Amazon.com

and one of these on the main output
Astro 2618 Air Control Unit, 12cfm Capacity - Air Compressor Accessories - Amazon.com

There's another one of those, along with one of these

Motor Guard M-1-KIT 1/2 NPT Clean Air Filter Kit - Air Compressor Accessories - Amazon.com

On my plasma cart -
View attachment 569626

Along with an onboard regulator to drop the compressor's 170# output down to 100 so the plasma doesn't get too excited

And MOST of that stuff probably wouldn't be NECESSARY, if I finally got that "round tuit" goin' and did a proper after-cooler setup - but at least, I don't hafta worry about remembering to empty the compressor tank, and the autodrain only adds about an hour per day of run time (which in my normal day is small taters :=) ... Steve

Wow you got me at almost $300.00 for getting water out of my air line, can we rework the numbers a little..............like maybe one unit does all or most.

 

[Oldpath05]

FranzinatorOh brother I first thought this was like the Gonkulator on Hogan's Heroes, maybe this is rocket science, this is definitely going above my pay grade that's for sure. I looked at the picture, the colored arrows shows air going in a 2" pipe and magically turning around and coming back out the same 2" pipe with a different color arrow, how about that, like Goma use to say>>Gooooolly.............

As of tonight the air seems to be holding, maybe that Permatex sealant welded the fitting together, it didn't blow apart yet. Several garages in my area use PVC, that stuff says it's rated to 600 psi. I put the thin white teflon tape at the very end and wound it on, no one told me to leave two threads showing. Dont I hate ALWAYS having to do something JUST right or wont work, my training has always been just throw it on there and throw it together, must be why I cant rebuild motors and cant stand capertery.

(stainless is a different animal; the stuff galls so easy you need to STOP when it feels like it's GONNA get tight (especially if the fitting needs to point a certain direction.)<<<<A guy at work told me the same thing last week about SS when I told him I had trouble with a SS bolt on my stove fix, I started backing the bolt out and then it stop like it instantly welded, I had to snap it to get it apart so tells me SS thread are indeed tricky to work with.

So what's your cost effective recommendation for pipe and size on 150 psi compressor, galvanized, copper or gold?

PS I'm also now having com troubles, my screen has become streeky on full size, had to narrow it down to see this forum, dont know whats going on mybe I have to get another Laptop.

 

[dragoneggs]

Franzinator

So what's your cost effective recommendation for pipe and size on 150 psi compressor, galvanized, copper or gold?

Just don't use PVC... other air line plastic pipe is okay but why not black or galvanized pipe. I know I will be going that route as I extend my air lines beyond just using the rubber flex hoses currently snaking all over the floor. Just isn't compatible with all my tools mounted on casters! :smiley_aafz:

 

[BukitCase]

"Several garages in my area use PVC, that stuff says it's rated to 600 psi."

It's NOT the PRESSURE itself that's the problem; it's the BRITTLE nature of PVC, and the way the pressure is RELEASED when it BREAKS.

When a pipe that's carrying LIQUID breaks, because liquids don't COMPRESS, the pressure that WAS there drops ALMOST IMMEDIATELY to ZERO so there's NO FORCE left to ACCELERATE any pieces to enough speed to be dangerous.

When a pipe that's carrying AIR breaks, all the COMPRESSED AIR in the pipe will EXPAND, until the pressure is back to ZERO (technically, back to "same as the ATMOSPHERE you're breathing") It's that lingering air pressure BEFORE it finishes expanding that is the "powder" that drives the "bullet" (broken shards of PVC) which makes it dangerous...

If you've done very much PVC WATER line, you've probably used a PVC pipe cutter like this

RIDGID 23498 Model RC-1625 Ratcheting Plastic Pipe and Tubing Cutter, 1/8-inch to 1-5/8-inch Pipe Cutter - Ridgid Pvc Cutter - Amazon.com

And, if you've gotten in a hurry and squeezed the handles too fast WITHOUT rotating the cutter slightly as it's getting STARTED in the cut, you may have had the pipe BREAK instead of getting CUT (especially in larger diameter, thinner walled, schedule 40 or thinner) - that BRITTLENESS is the PVC property that makes it DANGEROUS to use for AIR - because even though the size/thickness of PVC you're using might be rated for 600 psi, it is STILL BRITTLE and VERY LIKELY to SHATTER when struck lightly, and the EXPANDING AIR will still PROPEL the pieces in all directions.

This is similar to the difference between pulling with CABLE vs. pulling with CHAIN - when a CABLE breaks under tension, it's already stretched so it will SNAP BACK - sometimes with DEADLY FORCE. When a CHAIN breaks under tension, it's typically ONE LINK; the rest aren't stretched enough to have much of a "rubber band" effect, so the rest of the chain usually just (mostly) drops to the ground -

Best I can do for now, hope that made things CLEARER instead of WORSE... Steve

(next, some clarifications on "FRANZINATOR")

 

[BukitCase]

The previous link on "franzinator" has some good info, but could possibly be a little clearer - I tried to re-do some of the pics and add some comments last night, but my internet was down all day til several hours after bedtime; it's back up now, so here goes...

One of the confusions was ORIENTATION in the pics - I've changed them so ALL are shown as they should be when the unit is FINISHED and MOUNTED - in other words, everything in the edited pics is "right side up" - some of the PINK lettering doesn't show up as well, click to expand the pic may help... Steve