Sure - go here
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/349252-decent-moisture-separator.html
Ignore any post that does NOT talk about "franzinator" - pay particular attention to LOCATION and line lengths - this goes BETWEEN the compressor and its TANK, which makes it an INTER-COOLER.
Some of the info isn't totally clear; any questions, ask and I'll explain.
On your piping -
1. Using PVC pipe for air is
NOT safe, you can get away with it
if it will NEVER NEVER get bumped with ANYTHING bigger than a Q tip (only SLIGHTLY kidding) - PVC is fairly brittle, if it's under pressure and gets even a fairly small rock dropped on it, it becomes a PIPE BOMB, complete with SHRAPNEL - it does this with compressed air, exactly BECAUSE AIR is COMPRESSIBLE - so when the PVC is broken, all that high pressure AIR doesn't stop PUSHING til it's bled off; and in the process, any broken shards of plastic get LAUNCHED in all directions.
A buddy of mine thought I was being dramatic when I told him about this - he was pressure testing about 600 feet of 2" PVC before covering it up - all the pipe was laying at the bottom of the ditch, he had laid a 2x12 across the ditch in one place - had the pipe pressurized to 160 psi and valved off, idea being to watch a gauge and see if there were any leaks - he walked out on the plank across the ditch, and dislodged
a rock about the size of a marble - the
resulting EXPLOSION embedded PVC shrapnel in the plank he was walking on, and blew dirt and rocks all over the place...
If he HADN'T had that plank across the ditch there's a good chance it could've KILLED him...
In my opinion, if ANY of your PVC airline is ANYWHERE it can get bumped you should either build a plywood BOX over it or change it for galvanized or copper...
This "pipe bomb" thing
does NOT happen when running LIQUIDS, because
they're NOT COMPRESSIBLE (effectively) - so when a LIQUID carrying pipe (under pressure) breaks, the
pressure IMMEDIATELY GOES TO ZERO, so there's no "propellant" to keep the broken pieces ACCELERATING...
Teflon tape - there's probably as many grades/thicknesses of it as there are opinions in your local bar at happy hour - if you use one of the heavier grades, 3 or 4 wraps are enough if it's DONE RIGHT -
1 - NEVER tape the 1 or 2 threads at the very end of the pipe - this can cut small shreds of teflon and let them get into the system (where they can plug small orifices or jam valves)
2 - ALWAYS wrap in the same direction the female fitting screws on - IOW, if the tape tries to come OFF you're wrapping it the WRONG way.
3 - for METAL fittings; brass, iron, stainless, etc - screw it together as tight as you possibly can by HAND, then wrenches for about 2 turns, more if the threads are still loose - stainless is a different animal; the stuff galls so easy you need to STOP when it feels like it's GONNA get tight (especially if the fitting needs to point a certain direction.)
4 - for PLASTIC (PVC) again, not the thin "see-thru" tape, 4 wraps is usually enough -
the secret with PVC is to ONLY tighten FIRMLY BY HAND - any tighter and you'll probably CRACK the PVC, then NO AMOUNT of tape or swearing is gonna help.
In over 35 years of running PVC, black iron, galvanized, stainless, poly, copper, etc, I've maybe had 2 or 3 leaks doing it the above way - considering that's probably around 20 MILES of piping, 2 or 3 leaks ain't too bad... Steve
