Compacting gravel driveway

[PhilP]

We used to use #2 crusher run for the base for all our parking lots and roads we built when is was working.
This was always specified by the engineer. This has fine dust in it from being run through the crusher. Wet it down good with a hose before compaction ! I would be careful with the vibrating roller. I assume it would be a 10 ton.

I've seen tire roller systems used to pack crusher run for gravel driveways, but nobody has them where I live. They're also really expensive. I used to just put my bucket down at a very slight angle set to float, when I back down the center with my scraper blade, forming the crown and the bucket packs and smooths the surface. Unfortunately my spool valve doesn't work in the float position any longer, so I have to mess with the bucket in a fixed position and constantly adjust the pressure.

 

[kmesr9]

I had a Nephew that lived in Seattle. He loved it. To many people and people noise for me. I really liked the Public Transportation system though.

I’m 40 min North by Northeast near Granite Falls, out far enough to get away from most of the traffic but still close to shopping etc.

 

[5030]

I've given up on gravel entirely. 2 years ago I purchased a couple tri axle dump loads of asphalt millings and the contractor not only spread the millings but vibratory packed them down. That was 2 years ago and it still is just the way it was laid down, No more gravel for me.

 

[tradosaurus]

Naw, didn’t see that one.

I think gator man likes to argue so much that he forgets what he writes.

 

[paulsharvey]

I've given up on gravel entirely. 2 years ago I purchased a couple tri axle dump loads of asphalt millings and the contractor not only spread the millings but vibratory packed them down. That was 2 years ago and it still is just the way it was laid down, No more gravel for me.

In N FLa millings/RAP have just gotten so darn expensive; min of $800 for a dump truck load. With the trucking issues, mine problems, whatever the federal law about US ships between US Ports, rail issues, Amazon, name it; asphalt companies want Paid well to get rid of their millings.

They are a good product for sure; but when you get to $800-1200 per load (16 CY roughly); there start being better options. A truck load might do about 72 square yards at 5-6" depth; we could do 6" of poured concrete for about 25% more (if your doing the labor). And although millings are good, I'd be hard pressed to tell you they are equal to concrete or asphalt.

 

[Gator6x4]

Let me try again with the story that was deleted before being posted.

A Contractor was re-doing, tearing out and replacing worn out interstate. He would grind the old off, install a new base and pave over. One of his water trucks had a major mechanical breakdown. The time to get back in service was estimated as 3-4 weeks by his shop. He contacted a local heating oil company and explained his dilemma. He asked if he centralized his equipment could they do fuel refills for him. They advised sure.

He had the shop transfer the water boom and other equipment to the fuel truck and converted it to a water truck. Well the fuel truck had in big bold letters, DANGER DISEL FUEL NO SMOKING ON BOTH SIDES AND THE REAR. Well the first day it was in use people would drive by and point. About the third day the EPA showed up. He explained the situation and the EPA guy advised him to get some brown wrapping paper and duct tape and cover up the signs on the sides and rear because they were tired of getting phone calls that he was spraying diesel fuel on the gravel.

 

[Gator6x4]

I think gator man likes to argue so much that he forgets what he writes.

Nope Gator man was setting here reading the post before posting it and BLIP it was gone.

 

[herefromthere]

The K.I.S.S approach works well for me...1-1/4 minus, tailgated out over a solid base.

Wet or dry doesn't seem to make a difference, and I think I recall the trucking company telling me the weight percentage difference between wet/dry is about 1% in practice. We pay by the ton here, and I'm going to stick with getting it when I want it vs. saving a few pennies.

 

[paulsharvey]

We are probably not helping our OP much her at this point; but clay content maters, if a specific pit has more clay content, and it comes Wet, you'll be fighting pumping rock for days and days before you can finish and prime/Pave. For road work, I'd always prefer it come too dry, and we add water o site, than too wet, and we are scarifying and trying to dry it.

 

[Quisp]

That's why I time my products delivered at least a week after it rains. But in the grand scheme of things, how many gallons of water does gravel hold? 250 gallons is a ton. I've never seem dripping gravel, or crushed stone for that matter. But not what I ordered...

Most crushed gravel and stone can absorb about 2-3 % of their weight in water to reach a saturated surface dry (SSD) condition. So one ton could contain 5 - 7 gallons of water. Most quarries also wash their stone, so matter what, it will have some water.

 

[Quisp]

I'm getting crashed stone delivered and spread on my old gravel driveway. I will crown and level it. Then a guy with vibrating roller will come over and compact it. Would it be a good idea to have stone dust spread on top before compacting? Please share your experience/ideas/suggestions...

If you get crushed stone or gravel (which helps interlock) Smaller stone could be vibrated in the "lock in " the surface and make it smoother. Stone dust will just settle in/wash off the next rain event.

 

[5030]

I'd be hard pressed to tell you they are equal to concrete or asphalt.

They aren't but a dam sight better than gravel. I didn't pay nearly that much for what I got because the outfit was milling a parking lot up town so the transit distance was short and they even came hot. Like I said, 2 years now and looks just like it was done yesterday and they laid on a thick layer as well. Guy down the road saw what they were doing and got some for himself.

Never go back to gravel and I suspect I won't have to because I expect this to last at least a decade.

 

[AKbrewer]

I'm getting crashed stone delivered and spread on my old gravel driveway. I will crown and level it. Then a guy with vibrating roller will come over and compact it. Would it be a good idea to have stone dust spread on top before compacting? Please share your experience/ideas/

 

[AKbrewer]

This may be a bit late, but we’ve done similar this spring. We have a 1/4 mile driveway which was built with crushed 3/4 minus on top of recycled crushed concrete. This spring we spruced it up (after 5 years) with ~34 yards of crushed 3/4 minus (granite) ‘tailgated’ the length of the driveway. I smoothed with a ‘land plane’ , then did a final smoothing with my front bucket (when damp, the crushed rock with minus material tends to form a few clumps coming off the land plane).

For us, normal traffic has been sufficient for compacting.

 

[whirly]

All the compactors I've seen (not that many) have the ability to spray water in front of the rollers.

 

[paulsharvey]

All the compactors I've seen (not that many) have the ability to spray water in front of the rollers.

Those sprayers aren't sufficient or intended to add moisture to rock; they are meant to cool and prevent asphalt from sticking to the drum.

 

[AnotherBueller]

When I top dress my driveway I get screened gravel, commonly call #57 or #67 or fine screened. My driveway is too steep for crusher run and fines, the dust gets carried away to easily by the rain and you are left with loose rock.

My driveway climbs ~21' with 79' on the slope. I don't know if that's as steep as yours, but if I don't roll it wet both the fines and the smaller rock will wash down hill in a inch per hour rain. If I roll it wet with a slight crown, even a 4" per hr rain doesn't cause much damage. I use a poly 46" lawn roller behind my BX multiple passes and I go SLOW.

 

[RobbyG]

Spent the last 50 years in construction. Dry dirt and gravel particles must be slightly wet in order to lubricate the particles & grains so they slide past each other in the compaction process. Too much water makes mud & mush. Too dry results in light compaction.

 

[dursur]

Would love to see some more analysis of the CONCRETE option mentioned above....DO it ONCE and forget it....esp on hills.

 

[paulsharvey]

Would love to see some more analysis of the CONCRETE option mentioned above....DO it ONCE and forget it....esp on hills.

Before even considering concrete, you need to have an idea how long the drive is. If you are dealing with something sub 200 ft long, upto 12 ft wide, and are somewhat handy, and have beer and friends, it's not That expensive.

If you figure something like $70-85/sq yard.

say, a 12 ft drive, 100lf, 1200 sq ft @ 6" thick= we get about 23 cubic yards= about $4000 in concrete, delivery, wire, form boards. So expensive but no crazy for that short of a drive. That's also entirely pourable by 2 or 3 guys in a day. When we start talking about 800 foot long; we start needing to get a full crew of guys. If your seriously considering it; recommend reading that other thread, as there is a lot of detail.

Concrete still needs your subgrade problems resolved, so if you are dealing with springs, muck, sloppy trash, organics, those still need addressed.