If you get crushed stone or gravel (which helps interlock) Smaller stone could be vibrated in the "lock in " the surface and make it smoother. Stone dust will just settle in/wash off the next rain event.
5030
Epic Contributor
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- 26,998
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- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
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They aren't but a dam sight better than gravel. I didn't pay nearly that much for what I got because the outfit was milling a parking lot up town so the transit distance was short and they even came hot. Like I said, 2 years now and looks just like it was done yesterday and they laid on a thick layer as well. Guy down the road saw what they were doing and got some for himself.
Never go back to gravel and I suspect I won't have to because I expect this to last at least a decade.
AKbrewer
New member
AKbrewer
New member
This may be a bit late, but we’ve done similar this spring. We have a 1/4 mile driveway which was built with crushed 3/4 minus on top of recycled crushed concrete. This spring we spruced it up (after 5 years) with ~34 yards of crushed 3/4 minus (granite) ‘tailgated’ the length of the driveway. I smoothed with a ‘land plane’ , then did a final smoothing with my front bucket (when damp, the crushed rock with minus material tends to form a few clumps coming off the land plane).
For us, normal traffic has been sufficient for compacting.
For us, normal traffic has been sufficient for compacting.
whirly
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All the compactors I've seen (not that many) have the ability to spray water in front of the rollers.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Those sprayers aren't sufficient or intended to add moisture to rock; they are meant to cool and prevent asphalt from sticking to the drum.
AnotherBueller
Gold Member
My driveway climbs ~21' with 79' on the slope. I don't know if that's as steep as yours, but if I don't roll it wet both the fines and the smaller rock will wash down hill in a inch per hour rain. If I roll it wet with a slight crown, even a 4" per hr rain doesn't cause much damage. I use a poly 46" lawn roller behind my BX multiple passes and I go SLOW.
Spent the last 50 years in construction. Dry dirt and gravel particles must be slightly wet in order to lubricate the particles & grains so they slide past each other in the compaction process. Too much water makes mud & mush. Too dry results in light compaction.
dursur
New member
Would love to see some more analysis of the CONCRETE option mentioned above....DO it ONCE and forget it....esp on hills.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Before even considering concrete, you need to have an idea how long the drive is. If you are dealing with something sub 200 ft long, upto 12 ft wide, and are somewhat handy, and have beer and friends, it's not That expensive.
If you figure something like $70-85/sq yard.
say, a 12 ft drive, 100lf, 1200 sq ft @ 6" thick= we get about 23 cubic yards= about $4000 in concrete, delivery, wire, form boards. So expensive but no crazy for that short of a drive. That's also entirely pourable by 2 or 3 guys in a day. When we start talking about 800 foot long; we start needing to get a full crew of guys. If your seriously considering it; recommend reading that other thread, as there is a lot of detail.
Concrete still needs your subgrade problems resolved, so if you are dealing with springs, muck, sloppy trash, organics, those still need addressed.
